Teşekkürler.

⟐ Answer edited Mart 21, 2019 at 6:32 GMT-7

⟐ Answered Şubat 04, 2024 at 13:24 GMT-7

Bilgisayar özellikleri hakkında çok fazla bir bilgim yok ama bazı programları kullanıyorum ve bazılarını öğrenmenmeye çalışıyorum. Sürekli olarak After Effects ve Premiere Pro kullanacağım ve başlangıç seviyesi olarak Cinema 4D. Bu programları kullanmak ve sıkıntısız render almak için aşağıdaki özellikler yeterli mi?

Macbook Pro 13”

• 1.4 GHz 4 çekirdekli 8. nesil Intel Core i5 işlemci, 3.9 GHz’e kadar Turbo Boost
• 16 GB 2133 MHz LPDDR3 bellek
• 256 GB SSD depolama
• True Tone özelliğine sahip Retina ekran
• Intel Iris Plus Graphics 645
• İki adet Thunderbolt 3 bağlantı noktası
• Touch Bar ve Touch ID

⟐ Commented Temmuz 22, 2019 at 17:35 GMT-7

Cihaz 15-20 dk çalıştıktan sonra bu ekran kayması bitiyor sadece üst kısımda bi kaç çizgi şeklinde bir titretme kalıyor.

Bu sorun neden kaynaklanıyor ? Daha önce böyle bir sorun yaşayan olduysa yardımcı olabilirseniz sevinirim .


Hello, while my laptop was not having any problems, suddenly the screen started to slip.

After the device runs for 15-20 minutes, this screen shift ends, only a few lines remain at the top.

Why does this problem occur? If anyone has had this problem before, I'd appreciate it if you could help.

⟐ Answered Ekim 29, 2025 at 1:11 GMT-7

Other symptoms includes No audio devices found(cant play sound)

Is there any possible reasons for this? I highly doubt is a software problem.

hey guys an update on my issue, i never went for a fix, the problem went away after i left it to rest for a few days, i believe its an overheat issue. my screen has been working fine for the past few months since reporting this. Not sure it will come back, but this is definitely a faulty hardware, and Apple is not admitting it!

Affected model: 2016 Macbook Pro touch bar

I never went for a fix till now and using the same mac, the problem still comes and go, usually happen when overheating/heavy usage. I brought my macbook for de-dusting the fans and apply new heat paste for my processor in hope that it can reduce overheating issues, replacing the whole display costs too much.

Apple did an update for this issue for the FlexGate issue: 13-inch MacBook Pro Display Backlight Service Program. Sadly it doesn’t cover the T-CON issues.

⟐ Commented Temmuz 01, 2025 at 7:48 GMT-7

⟐ Answered Temmuz 09, 2025 at 5:09 GMT-7

⟐ Commented Haziran 30, 2025 at 13:09 GMT-7

My Macbook Pro suddenly shut down and is not turning on, no chime, no Apple logo. There was no exposure to water. (However, I had kept a steaming bowl of hot water right next to the laptop.But this was in an open kitchen)

The Pro had less than 10% charge when it suddenly shut down. I charged it for another 10 minutes and tried to switch on, but no luck. I charged it completely till the magsafe indicator turned green, still does not turn on. So assumed that the battery is charging fine. I opened the mac and saw no visible corrosion or moisture(two tiny dots below the battery case are white and haven't turned red)

I have tried the following already.

1. SMC reset - With the magsafe adapter connected, when I do the reset the charge indicator turns green from orange.

2. Disconnected and reconnected the battery connector - still no life.

Its been only a year and three months I bought this in India. Could the logic board die out so soon? How to pinpoint if it is indeed the logic board?

Thanks a lot!

I am currently based in a small town in Germany with no apple genius store around. I will be visiting the store in February. Meanwhile any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!!

⟐ Commented Ocak 26, 2025 at 6:30 GMT-7

The only way for me to turn it on was to plug in the MagSafe connecter (which only showed the green light).

I then asumed it was a problem with the replacement battery (from eBay) and put back the original battery.

For some strange reason, the original battery wasn't recognised either!

I've reset the PRAM and SMC, but still to no avail!

I would greatly appreciate your help!

I have a late 2011 mackbook pro which battery indicator showed not working/replace battery soon, replaced the battery with one I bought from ebay. When installed worked as it showed to have 60 % change out of the box, I went ahead and charged it fully and then it drained after a couple of days and would not recharge. Waited a couple of days, it charged a 2nd time and this time i did SMC reset and calibrated as suggested. After the 2nd charge ran out, it started to drain fast and would not charge while plugged in. Replaced with the old battery, charged one time and now back neither old nor new battery will charge, megasafe doesn’t light up at all. Any suggestions?

⟐ Commented Nisan 26, 2023 at 18:01 GMT-7

⟐ Commented Ağustos 13, 2025 at 21:23 GMT-7

I should be able to upgrade the ssd to 256gb without much problem right? But which one would one use? or is it only possible to use another original SSD?

Don't need to be a monster of a ssd, just abit larger to store some more media.

Thanks in advance

⟐ Answered Temmuz 15, 2025 at 1:45 GMT-7

I turned it off, everything seemed normal, but the next morning it wouldn't turn on again. It won't even start up: absolutely no sound, as if it was completely dead.

I checked the battery indicator and it was completely charged. I opened it up and disconnected the battery, plugged in the MagSafe charger, and there was still no response. I plugged the battery back in and no response. Plugged in the charger and connected the battery and no response.

I took out the hard drive and all my info was there; it would mount on a different MacBook Pro with no problem, and luckily I got all my files backed up.

So I know the hard drive is not the problem. The fan won't even move when trying to turn it on.

I tried taking out the RAM, one by one, no RAM at all, switching them from slot to slot: no response.

Tried out all of the key combinations on the keyboard as well... still nothing.

I don't know what else to try. I read somewhere that the on/off button is connected to the ribbon cable from the keyboard. I checked, and it is plugged in correctly to the logic board. I'm afraid my logic board is dead, but after only a little more than a year????

Any guesses?

Thanks for your help.

⟐ Commented Şubat 22, 2024 at 7:26 GMT-7

Basically, I get no audio from my MacBook Pro Retina 13" Late 2013 A1502 16Gb 2.6GHz - everything else works beautifully as ever with this machine (incl USB & power) apart from the sound.

It has *not* experienced any water damage or drops, but I'm pretty sure this problem started when I plugged in my external power speakers' amp to the headphone jack... just like I did everyday before that, but for some reason this time I didn't get any sound output and the volume feedback was delayed when I tried to turn the volume up/down.

Symptoms:

• Built-in speakers don't make any sounds.
• No sound coming from output jack (headphones or external speakers).
• I see the volume no-access icon (circle with diagonal line through it) when trying to change volume
• checked System Preferences->Sound settings: nothing showing up under the Output or Input tabs (no "Internal Speakers" showing up)
• NO RED LIGHT coming from headphone jack... so it's not the optical speaker switch problem most people seem to have.
• In "system information", when I look in sound hardware... no description for input, output, etc...

I've hunted and hunted all over the internet trying all various suggestions that others have had success with - I've tried all of the following, but still no luck:

I've tried all of the following in the listed order but nothing's changed:

• repeatedly plugging & unplugging different types audio equipment to the headphones port (including apple headphones)
• disk utility and run disk repair (no errors)
• tried PRAM/NVRAM resets (I don't hear the "chime" sound)
• tried logging in via a new user account
• tried deleting ~/Library/Preferences:com.apple.systemsound.plist
• plastic toothpick in the hole
• looking in the hole with microscope & 1.8mm led to illuminate - can't see anything obstructions in the hole
• I downloaded and booted the ASD software EFI and OS diagnostics - no errors
• tried disconnecting battery then rebooting
• an isopropyl alcohol swabbed q-tip cotton swab

I also went to see a Genius at the Apple Store - they did their tests and said "there's only two options:

• replace the logic board as we don't replace individual components, or
• use a USB adapter"

The logic board repair quote was extremely expensive as my warranty is over and the charge probably includes replacing all 16Gb of memory too as it's soldered in; and I said I didn't think that last suggestion was very Apple-like - I'd need to carry around an ugly USB adapter and an external speaker/mic device just to hear sound!

So I'm at a loss and need your help!

Everything else works fine on my computer, so I'm willing to get my multimeter out and start testing hardware but I'm not sure where to start (I/O card / Logic board?).

My logic board # is 820-3476-A

Thanks

⟐ Commented Kasım 19, 2023 at 8:52 GMT-7

A few weeks ago, I decided to replace my macbook’s battery - after 5ish years, the only thing about this laptop (the best laptop ever made) was the battery life drained quickly. I ordered a battery + kit from iFixit, and replaced the battery. I conditioned the battery, but every time it discharged it would jump from above 50% battery to 7% battery, then die shortly after (i.e. a very discontinuous discharge). I received a replacement battery for the replace from iFixit, and replaced again. However, I’m still having the same problem with the battery jumps . I figure it’s unlikely to be the battery, but am unsure what else could could be causing the issue. I’ve reset PRAM and SMC.

⟐ Commented Temmuz 18, 2025 at 12:42 GMT-7

⟐ Commented Temmuz 01, 2023 at 18:02 GMT-7

My internal hard drive disk has stopped working on my Macbook.

The hard drive is not recognized at boot up, so I get the famous question mark. I tried to connect another hard disk and got the same error message. So I guess the problem comes from the logic board?

When I try to access it from the external bootable drive using Disk Utility I can't see it either.

The disk I'm using is good, and it works when connected with USB (this is what I'm running now). But of course I would prefer to put it inside and connect it with SATA.

Now, I'm wondering what I should do. A new logical board is expensive, and it would be too bad to change it completely, because everything else is working perfectly. So, I'd like to get some advice, maybe for how to check the connectors, change the disk controller or add a new one, or whatever can help to get a more practical solution.

Thank you for your help.

⟐ Answered Şubat 21, 2024 at 23:23 GMT-7

⟐ Commented Mart 12, 2021 at 1:48 GMT-7

⟐ Commented Temmuz 24, 2022 at 19:09 GMT-7