Cihaz 15-20 dk çalıştıktan sonra bu ekran kayması bitiyor sadece üst kısımda bi kaç çizgi şeklinde bir titretme kalıyor.

Bu sorun neden kaynaklanıyor ? Daha önce böyle bir sorun yaşayan olduysa yardımcı olabilirseniz sevinirim .


Hello, while my laptop was not having any problems, suddenly the screen started to slip.

After the device runs for 15-20 minutes, this screen shift ends, only a few lines remain at the top.

Why does this problem occur? If anyone has had this problem before, I'd appreciate it if you could help.

Bilgisayar özellikleri hakkında çok fazla bir bilgim yok ama bazı programları kullanıyorum ve bazılarını öğrenmenmeye çalışıyorum. Sürekli olarak After Effects ve Premiere Pro kullanacağım ve başlangıç seviyesi olarak Cinema 4D. Bu programları kullanmak ve sıkıntısız render almak için aşağıdaki özellikler yeterli mi?

Macbook Pro 13”

• 1.4 GHz 4 çekirdekli 8. nesil Intel Core i5 işlemci, 3.9 GHz’e kadar Turbo Boost
• 16 GB 2133 MHz LPDDR3 bellek
• 256 GB SSD depolama
• True Tone özelliğine sahip Retina ekran
• Intel Iris Plus Graphics 645
• İki adet Thunderbolt 3 bağlantı noktası
• Touch Bar ve Touch ID

⟐ Commented Temmuz 22, 2019 at 17:35 GMT-7

Teşekkürler.

⟐ Answer edited Mart 21, 2019 at 6:32 GMT-7

I got a 2017 13” MacBook Pro online for parts. The fans gradually ramp up and spin at full speed when plugged in. The trackpad connector was ripped off of the board and there is no ssd. Water damage indicators are also red, but no visual marks or stains. I get no image on the display, caps lock key does not light up when I press it. When unplugged, the system immediately shuts down. Any help?

⟐ Commented Temmuz 27, 2026 at 9:50 GMT-7

Essentially, my Macbook Pro M1 16GB 2020 (A2338) camera has stopped working. Not sure why. If I open Photo Booth, the screen is black but there is no message/warning. The camera light does NOT switch on either.

Tried the following:

• Restarting
• sudo killall VDCAssistant and AppleCameraAssitant but it says No matching processes.
• Reset the laptop (factory reset using iTunes)
• Took off the bottom cover to confirm the 4 ribbon cables were still connected from the screen

If I go to my system information, then go to my camera, it says "No video capture devices were found".

Everything else works perfectly fine so not sure why it would be the camera hardware itself.

⟐ Commented Temmuz 26, 2026 at 10:38 GMT-7

My display backlight was working perfectly just a day ago, but ever since I connected the display into another MacBook I was testing the backlight completely stopped functioning. I already swapped the small cable that connects the display board with the logic board and have also tried SMC/PRAM reset without luck. Connecting another display to the MacBook shows nothing either (this screen was untested however). Any help?

⟐ Answer accepted Temmuz 25, 2026 at 12:01 GMT-7

Also, is this cable bad?

Edit to add area after cleaning with IPA:

⟐ Commented Temmuz 22, 2026 at 19:50 GMT-7

MacBook Pro Retina

All Retina screen cables with hinges are compatible.

A1425 2012L 13" Retina could be tested with 13" or 15" 2013E Display. Unfortunately, 2013/13" Display has different Camera connector.
For testing 13 and 15 inch screens of the same generation are compatible
2012-E2013 are fully compatible
L2013-2014 are fully compatible
2015 is unique

I really need to know if this display is good before we attempt a repair as otherwise it is pointless to fix ...... @danj

⟐ Edited by author Temmuz 18, 2026 at 17:57 GMT-7

As a footnote,Considering that in one of the pictures it shows that the coating can peel of, I could try removing it all, and replace with another as I have 2 other fully defective display assembly's that I could try to remove the part from. Trial & error maybe or a wild possibility? Now solved.

⟐ Edited by author Temmuz 17, 2026 at 8:37 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted Temmuz 16, 2026 at 6:19 GMT-7

Symptoms:

1. Battery Dead: The laptop will not turn on unless connected directly to the power adapter. The battery is not charging.
2. Peripherals Overheating: USB dongles and other peripherals become extremely hot within a short time when plugged in.
3. Electric Shock/Leakage: I feel an electric shock (tingle) when touching the aluminum case, suggesting a grounding issue or internal short circuit.

My Question: Based on these symptoms, what components should I replace?

• Is it just the battery?
• Could it be the battery connector cable or the USB-C/Charging port flex cable?
• Is the Logic Board (Motherboard) damaged and in need of replacement?

I am looking for suggestions on which specific parts to buy to fix this. Thank you!

⟐ Answer edited Temmuz 16, 2026 at 6:10 GMT-7

. (I dont have a thermal camera or an external power supply) and i dont know where to go from here.]

⟐ Answered Temmuz 14, 2026 at 15:49 GMT-7

I now see six holes in the logic board where the cable is supposed to fit. I can line them up to the cable but can't connect by pushing straight down. I have attached photos showing the condition of the board and the cable end.

Can someone confirm if the socket has been torn off the board? If so, is this repairable through micro-soldering, or does it require a logic board replacement? Not great res, I apologize.

⟐ Commented Temmuz 14, 2026 at 13:05 GMT-7

I’m having a strange issue with my MacBook Pro display, and I’m hoping someone can help.

A few weeks ago, I noticed a couple of thin green horizontal lines starting at the bottom of the screen. Since then, more colored lines (green, pink, and other colors) have gradually appeared, and the number of lines keeps increasing day by day. The issue seems to be spreading upward from the bottom edge.

The strange part is that my MacBook has never been dropped, the display has never been hit or pressed, and I’ve never accidentally closed the lid with an object inside. It has always been handled very carefully.

Here are a few details:

• The lines are only on the built-in display.
• They started from the bottom and are slowly increasing over time.
• There was no single event that caused the problem.
• Restarting the Mac doesn’t fix it.

I’ve attached a photo of the display.

Has anyone experienced something similar?

• Is this likely a failing LCD panel, display flex cable, or display controller issue?
• Is there anything I can try before replacing the entire display?
• Could this happen without any physical damage?

Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

⟐ Answer accepted Temmuz 11, 2026 at 20:52 GMT-7

⟐ Answer edited Temmuz 11, 2026 at 5:15 GMT-7

⟐ Commented Temmuz 07, 2026 at 19:34 GMT-7

I’m looking for some help with a MacBook Pro 13” Retina (2017, Touch Bar model).

I recently replaced the battery. The replacement went smoothly, and after reconnecting everything and checking the connections multiple times, the MacBook powers on normally and correctly recognizes the new battery.

However, since the battery replacement, I’ve been experiencing the following issues:

• The keyboard does not work at all.
• The trackpad does not work and does not physically click (it feels completely locked).
• The right cooling fan does not appear to work properly.
• On every startup, the left fan immediately ramps up to a very high speed and keeps spinning loudly, regardless of system load.

The MacBook itself boots and operates normally with an external keyboard and mouse, and the battery is detected correctly by macOS.

I’ve already reopened the MacBook and checked the battery and flex cable connections, but I haven’t found anything obviously disconnected or damaged.

Has anyone experienced something similar after a battery replacement? Could this be related to the trackpad flex cable, keyboard/trackpad connector, fan connector, or perhaps a sensor that is no longer being detected?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

⟐ Answered Haziran 28, 2026 at 16:21 GMT-7

⟐ Commented Haziran 27, 2026 at 19:06 GMT-7

⟐ Answered Haziran 27, 2026 at 13:24 GMT-7

The Macbook turns on only when it is plugged in, but if I unplug it while it's on, it can stay on for hours (with the fan working at full speed).

Here's what I've done so far:

1. 1. Tried a whole bunch of combinations of draining and then recharging the battery, restarting in recovery mode, etc.
2. 2. Tried two other battery data cables from seemingly reputable companies - I even tried a tape trick to try for a better connection, it did nothing in my case
3. 3. Got a second replacement battery from ifixit (they kindly sent one for free)

So far, none of these attempts have made a difference.

To me, it seems to be an issue with the data transfer from the battery to the rest of the computer, but I think I've ruled out a good number of culprits. Usually, I'm able to figure these problems out on my own, but not this time. Any help would be highly appreciated!

⟐ Answer accepted Haziran 22, 2026 at 7:01 GMT-7