Here see the horizontal lines in the Finder icon.

⟐ Commented Ağustos 02, 2026 at 7:17 GMT-7

⟐ Commented Temmuz 24, 2026 at 6:01 GMT-7

Troubleshooting steps - I've basically done everything software wise, so I know it's hardware. Chat GPT seems to believe it's the backlight fuse that may have blown due to liquid entering.

Anyone have a hunch on what's happening? I know liquid is difficult, as I've actually worked at an Apple Store as a technician. This was a used purchase and I'd rather not spend a whole lot fixing it, but I'd like the backlight to work.

I do not have soldering equipment or a microscope, but I'm comfortable disassembling and stuff at home (I've replaced thousands of phone batteries and displays, and I build computers as a hobby). Thanks!

⟐ Commented Temmuz 24, 2026 at 4:04 GMT-7

⟐ Commented Temmuz 15, 2026 at 4:42 GMT-7

Can someone point me to the relevant cables which connect the LCD to the logic board?

⟐ Answered Temmuz 14, 2026 at 20:54 GMT-7

There is always a delay for characters showing on screen when pressing “CAPS lock” key (when needs capital letter), it works fine after having the MacBook pro reset to factory settings, but issue came back gradually after installing apps like office, mail, etc.

Is there a setting to control this? Anybody has the similar experience or know how to resolve it?

Many thanks,

Tom

⟐ Commented Temmuz 14, 2026 at 7:11 GMT-7

I have a 16" Macbook Pro 2021 (A2485) that has a cracked screen but I am able to buy a complete identical model laptop 'skeleton' (minus its original logic board) for less than the price of the repair at Apple.

If I transfer the logic board and Touch ID from my 'working laptop' with the cracked display, into the donor laptop shell, will everything work as normal or will I come up against a few issues?

Thanks!

⟐ Commented Temmuz 08, 2026 at 12:08 GMT-7

⟐ Answered Temmuz 07, 2026 at 6:23 GMT-7

About a week ago these visual issues have started, which I have assumed were linked to the flex cable that goes into the display assembly itself, making it impossible to fix.

The issue is triggered either by pressing the plastic bottom bezel at the left corner, or by moving the orientation of the screen.

I put my laptop for sale on a local marketplace, and someone called today saying the same happened to his 16" M1 Pro. He told me a repair shop has successfully repaired it by replacing a ribbon cable hidden behind the said plastic bezel strip, and the repair cost him very little money.

Does anyone have any idea about what exactly could've went bad so I can explain it to technicians that would attempt a repair for the laptop?

So far, I've just been quoted a full display assembly replacement costing from 800 to 1000€, which isn't an option. Thanks

- Hard to see on camera, but that region of the chin bezel > display seems to have kind of a bloated/warping effect.

⟐ Answer accepted Temmuz 06, 2026 at 15:05 GMT-7

These Macbooks are now around 4-5 years so it's not a bad idea to replace the thermal paste.

They're not obsolute so there will still be users who can benefit from a guide.

Update:

So I was able to open the MacBook and disassemble the motherboard with the video.

Since I'm comfortable around electronics (this isn't my first time opening up a MacBook, laptop, or even a smartphone), I did choose to replace the thermal paste on the cpu and gpu.

And honestly, after four years of service... Kind of disappointed about the original paste. Dan said that paste will last longer now due to improvements, but the original paste was crumbly as hell. Furthermore I noticed small blank spots on the cpu and it's heatsink, so not very good spread. The gpu did have a good spread. They definitely were generous with the paste on the gpu, because its surroundings were covered with paste too.

Cleaning wasn't difficult, as I said the paste was in a very crumbly state.

After cleaning I gave the copper plates of the heatsink and the cpu and gpu some time to evaporate the alcohol.

I used Noctua NT-H2 and used the "X" to spread the paste on both cpu and gpu.

The only annoying experience was to place back the motherboard in the case. I needed multiple attempts because there was always some small connector/ribbon cable underneath the motherboard. Ugh! After playing like an octopus for a while, I was able to place the motherboard back and with all connectors/ribbon cables out on top of it.

It's do-able but only for people who have a steady hand and... most of all... lots and lots of patience. Take your time. Take some breaks if you get tired or frustrated because the moment that you attempt to work a bit faster or anything like that... something will go wrong. I 100% guarantee that.

I made only one mistake. The connector cable from the left fan is incredibely fragile due to its L-shape (that's what I think). In trying to get the L-shape cable from underneath the board to the top on the board, I got a small tear in the ribbon cable. This fan no longer works. We learn from our mistakes. Should've taped the connector on top of the fan, I wouldn't had an issue to "fish" for the cable since it can't get trapped underneath the board that way. Already ordered a replacement fan.

The temperatures are amazing though. In idle I went from 60-63° to 46-51°. The one remaining fan is also a lot quieter. I'm not going to claim this huge difference to the new paste though. There was so much built up dust in the MacBook... I was genuinely surprised that the MacBook didn't have much higher temps in idle. Both fans were completly covered up in thick dust, and the outlets on both fans same thing. How it managed to get some kind of airflow through those thick dust is a mystery to me.

Anyway, I am very happy with the result. Yes, I did damage one fan connector, but one can only learn with making mishaps.

⟐ Commented Haziran 30, 2026 at 9:51 GMT-7

I’m hoping someone can help me troubleshoot a serious issue.

About a week ago, I purchased a complete display assembly from iFixit for my 16-inch MacBook Pro (Late 2023) and followed the repair guide to replace the screen. The repair appeared to be successful. The MacBook powered on normally and I used it daily for about a week without any problems.

This morning, I initiated a macOS Tahoe update. During or after the update process, the computer became completely unresponsive.

Current symptoms:

• No signs of life at all.
• Screen remains black.
• No startup chime.
• No keyboard backlight.
• No response when opening the lid.
• No response when holding the power button for 10+ seconds.
• No visible indication that the machine is charging.

My biggest concern is that I do not have a recent backup of my data.

My questions are:

1. Has anyone experienced a MacBook Pro becoming completely unresponsive after a macOS Tahoe update?
2. Could this be related to the display assembly replacement, even though the computer worked perfectly for a week afterward?
3. Are there any recovery steps I should try before opening the machine again?
4. Is there a way to revive the system using DFU Restore or DFU Revive, and if so, would that preserve my data?
5. If the logic board has failed, what are my options for recovering the data stored on the internal SSD?

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. I want to avoid making the situation worse and would like to preserve my data if possible.

Thank you.

⟐ Commented Haziran 26, 2026 at 14:22 GMT-7

⟐ Answered Haziran 09, 2026 at 18:32 GMT-7

I wasn't on the laptop at the time it restarted. I was doing some cleaning in the room and happen to hear that low chime tone noise, the one that I think is pretty standard across the board for when any laptop or computer is restarted or turns on. Everything was working normal before the restart occurred, and even after, things seem to be normal.

I do have a couple cats that I have to yell at from time to time if I catch them walking across the keyboard, maybe it's possible they stepped on a particular key combination which triggered the reason for this situation. I really don't have a clue. I haven't experienced any issues so I don't feel too concerned about it, for now anyway.

This is just out of pure curiosity, I was wondering if anyone had any knowledge in understanding anything on all that code stuff in the "Details" report that I'm able to pull up on the problem and reason for restart?

I appreciate any information anyone has on this matter and thank you very much for taking the time out of your day to give me some tips or insight to help me understand this a little better for now and in the future. Thanks again!

⟐ Answered Haziran 02, 2026 at 6:59 GMT-7

⟐ Commented Mayıs 29, 2026 at 18:33 GMT-7

However, if I shut down macbook, the MacBook can be charged in any way, such as MagSafe, and all USB-C ports can be used.

But the charging power is only 5W.

⟐ Commented Mayıs 26, 2026 at 7:50 GMT-7

• Firefox/YouTube: Video plays without audio.
• Safari/YouTube: Sometimes no audio/video (but seeker moves, subtitles come). Sometimes video just stuck on loading—in which case after a while it tells me to “try restarting the device” if playback doesn’t resume.
• Apple TV: Media cannot load/play. Instantly media player is “killed” for the lack of a better term.
• Apple Music: Track auto skips to next. Similar to Apple TV. It attempts to play, can’t play, then instead of killing the media it skips to next song, repeat.
• Many streaming services in Firefox, Chrome, Safari: The playback technically begins, I can see the seeker/playhead move in time and subtitles come and go, but video is black and there’s no sound.

What’s common in all scenarios is there’s no sound. It happened abruptly one day. Default device is set to “MacBook Pro Speakers”.

More strangely, in the past week I've been having this problem, there have been two times when it became completely fine. That too, mid-playback. And randomly, it goes away too. For example, most recently when it started working again, I was watching a video on YouTube. I pause it for a bit to do something and when I come back and resume it, suddenly there's no sound again.

Further clarifications:

• I opened OBS Studio and added window capture of Firefox while playing a YouTube video. The sound bar was not moving at all.
• I have removed all Bluetooth devices and kept Bluetooth off while I have tested all this.
• It's not just media, no alert sounds are coming either, including the boot-up sound.
• Sound works fine when using a headphone (via aux for example).
• No crackling or weird noise to tell me that speakers are damaged in any way. When they started working again twice randomy during the last week, they worked 100% fine with complete clarity and volume.

Video here.

MacBook Pro 16-inch 2021 with Apple M1 Pro, 16 GB RAM, and Sequoia 15.5 operating system.

⟐ Commented Mayıs 02, 2026 at 9:54 GMT-7

And yet the laptop does not work as usual. First time it took ages until it could load the log-in screen. And it didn't got better afterwards either. The "SYMPTOMS" include:

• very long response time to basic commands such as close the tab or move the cursor;
• battery status is not shown - neither on the tab nor in settings; I suppose the computer does not "see" it;
• fans start to work at full speed as soon as I open the lid and continue like this - no matter the task - and albeit MBP is not even warm.

That's it. I've got to say that I didn't exchange the battery. The only way I came into contact with it is at a step where the battery power connector is disconnected (and then connected); and the same with the battery board data cable.

I've read here and there about those "symptoms" and it seems that (1) working slowly with (2) fans at full speed albeit no need to cool the computer down indicates that my MBP is running in a safe mode. Well, I would like to know whether you guys think this too.

Where could have I done sth. wrong in the assembly to cause this behavior? Or what else could be the reason?

After going through the manual (MacBook Pro (16 Zoll, 2019) Display tauschen - iFixit Reparaturanleitung) again I believe to have narrowed down the list of possible causes to just four connections that might not sit just right:

1. 1. Display board flex cable (German: Flachbandkabel; step no. 19)
2. 2. Antenna cables (Antennenkabel; steps no. 22-23)
   3. Battery board data cable (Akkuplatinen-Datenkabel; steps no. 11-14)
3. 4. Battery power connector (Akkustrom Stecker; steps no. 15-16)

But I don't want to disassemble the computer just yet, bcs. I am still not sure whether the cause is not sth. else, e.g. faulty display (item) or I broke sth. else during the process. So who knows what the cause of the behavior described might be? And how to fix it.

@danj thank for advice. However, yesterday after posting this question I chatted with FixBot here. It wasn't completely precise, but in general I understood that the issue most likely lies within the bad battery data cable connection. Without doing diagnostics first I risked and disassembled the cover again to check connections manually. Now it works.

It's interesting, I thought that the issue was that one or both sides of the battery data cable weren't fully in the socket. AI said (falsely) that gold pins a) should be put face down to the logic board and b) they need to be full way in to make full contact with the socket. Both of which are false, however. I checked a) with a YT-video where this model gets disassembled - gold pins should face upwards, as in the photo (guide is correct). And b) can be checked with another YT-video too, but also I tried it this way and that way to get it fully inside and it's impossible. I might have even bended one side of golden pins slightly. So DO NOT do it. It's just strange that they do not go fully inside and also aren't really fixed (only with those tiny ears).

However, after reseating this battery data cable with the battery power connector in reverse order (first connect the battery data cable to the logic board side, which is away from the middle of the computer, then battery power connector, then another side of the battery data cable to the battery side, which is to the middle of the computer), it works. ''''

//This discrepancy remains in the guide bcs. there they just say "redo in reverse order to assemble", which means that the battery power connector gets connected before the battery data cable and, according to the FixBot, can cause a short circuit, esp. if cable is not inserted straight. ‼️

So I did not change anything as I see it; also checked other parts I touched during screen replacement procedures: everything looked perfectly aligned and I did not touch them. But believe it or not, after putting each screw back, plugging in the computer and turning it on, I got this: a) no roaring fans; b) usual processing speed; c) battery status is back. So just as it should be. The conclusion is: it was either bad connection of the cable to the socket or a ZIF brake maybe was not flat entirely; or exactly the order of the steps, as AI suggested (however in YT-video they also do it as in the guide: first power, then data).

I hope my detailed answer will help anyone facing similar issues after reassembly.

⟐ Edited by author Nisan 30, 2026 at 7:07 GMT-7

I'm experiencing weird issues with my MBP 16" I9 2.3GHZ, 32GB, 1TB, 5500 4GB.

I bought it second hand in October 2024 and due to some strike by Canada Post it stayed for a whole month in a warehouse, dead battery on delivery, the Touch ID was kaput, tried many resets and installs and nothing (no DFU yet).

Some time later, I began having some Kernel Panics here and there, once a month, not so persistent. But lately it began to happen too much in the 10's one after another.

I used it for long gaming sessions with an external ssd ( bootcamp ) not a single crash.

The kernel panics happened a lot when :

Apps running : Chrome, PremierePro, After Effect, Spotify...
Connected to : NVME enclosure, external USB C hub ( 4K HDMI + 2 ext. HDD ), Bluetooth connected to my AV receiver.

Lately I switched to using Safari only and weirdly no more crashes:
NVME enclosure connected + Pr + Ae + Bluetooth active, w/o external USB C HUB

Here is a conversation with Gemini documenting the crashes : https://gemini.google.com/share/e49e55d1...

Gemini is pointing to a faulty power rail or even a faulty T2 Chip ( management + BridgeOs).

I've tried to having some experts to diagnose the issue and all of them gave me the same advice "change the motherboard or better buy a new one".

Louis Rossmann won't be happy with their diagnosis, but yeah I get the struggle of putting in some work and having it fail again.

Right now I sincerely think it's a software issue, I tend to run a lot of renders over Ae & Pr and not a single crash, CPU and temps all high for 1 or two hours, only when an app as Chrome or Spotify ( chromium based app ) runs that I have the unresponsive for sometime before rebooting from a panicked kernel.

The report always states a random unresponsive processes, but I fell like the smoking gun is held by Chrome or Spotify, my proof is simple, they do happen a lot when I push it to the extreme, open new tabs of very taxing website (IG, FB marketplace) the kind of website that has too many layers to it...

Is there anything that I'm missing here ? Faulty hardware acceleration ? I typically run my Mac on dedicated GPU only. Any other hardware ? Or purely some corrupted firmware ( T2 related ).

I'm willing to do a DFU restore in the coming days with another Mac to attempt a recovery of the TouchID and a clean install, even though one quick visit to an Apple Store and they told me it was best to replace it for 200$ ( after a 1 hours diagnosis ).

Tanks again !!

⟐ Answered Nisan 29, 2026 at 19:06 GMT-7

⟐ Answered Nisan 29, 2026 at 14:45 GMT-7

Battery Terminal & Data PORT. On my MacBook Pro 16” M1 Max, snapped off or broke off when putting in new battery and I believe that was the reason why the battery it was not being recognized by the board because of the logic board connector,

I’m in desperate need for someone who can help me fix or find the parts name or number

(Battery Terminal & Data PORT)

because I’ve tried, can’t find or get anything

⟐ Answer accepted Nisan 27, 2026 at 7:20 GMT-7