⟐ Edited by author Aralık 26, 2020 at 5:04 GMT-7

I ended up being successful, however in attempting to loosen the logic board screw to allow room to to seat the hard drive as the instructions indicated, the screw was so tight I stripped the screw. After quite a lot of struggle I seemed to get the drive seated and it is functioning.

Is there a way to loosen the screw for any future issues?

⟐ Answered Ağustos 13, 2026 at 0:28 GMT-7

It came with a Core i5 2400s which is a 65W TDP. The Xeon E3-1280 is 69W. So has anyone tried this before would it work?

⟐ Commented Ağustos 12, 2026 at 5:54 GMT-7

I replaced the power supply but no luck (ebay working pull). I am considering replacing the power button next.

It is a 27" 3.4 i7 with 32gb ram and 2gb Vram. Nothing happens when the start button is pressed. It stopped working in February. There were a few crashing that seemed to be related to connecting to wifi before it stopped working.

▪︎are start buttons known for going out?

I'm going to pull the drive and put it in a laptop for the time being: Look at crash report.

Case is still open: monitor is attached but only taped close.

Also if this does start can it run off an external monitor without the screen attached?

It might be easier to work on that way.

Thanks for any help.

(The right speaker is unplugged, I just decided not to remove it.)

Edit: I ordered a replacement PSU and got the same result- a buzzing noise with only LED 1 working. I narrowed down the buzzing to near the top-right of the PSU. Turns out, the buzzing only happens when the computer is attempting to turn on (i.e. after I hold the power button for a few seconds). It stops if I hold the power button for a second or two while it's buzzing. When I remove the PSU data cable, the buzzing I had been hearing stops and is replaces by a higher-pitched buzzing sound that isn't affected by power button presses. (LED 1 still works without the cable, as expected.) I tested each wire in the PSU data cable, and they're all working. I'm thoroughly stumped now.

⟐ Answer unaccepted Ağustos 10, 2026 at 20:32 GMT-7

I got horizontal lines over the display! During the warranty period they replaced the board ( it blacked out ) and now this is happening. They refused to replace the device saying out of warranty and asked to replace it :-|. They were not even sure that changing the display will fix the issue. I am hesitant to replace the screen as I am better off to buy a new one rather keep repairing the faulty product.

Is there any way to fix it?

Tried
- Reinstall the OS
- External Display = Works fine
- Reseating those 3 cables

Lines kind of flickers, may be some lose cables?

Please help

⟐ Commented Ağustos 09, 2026 at 19:05 GMT-7

⟐ Commented Ağustos 08, 2026 at 3:12 GMT-7

I have a Mid 2011 Mac Mini (2.5Ghz i5 model A1347) which I bought from the refurb store in 2013.

From mid 2013 to late 2016 it served as a media server, running XBMC/Kodi. Towards the end of that time it started to randomly shut down. I then stopped using it and since then it's been sat in a cupboard.

I was going to wipe it and set it up for my daughter, but I can't get it started. When I try to start it, the power light comes on and I can hear something (I think it's the HDD) and then about one second later it switches off.

Any guidance on troubleshooting this would be much appreciated.

Thanks

Barry

⟐ Commented Ağustos 03, 2026 at 14:36 GMT-7

So i have late 2013 27 inch iMac. The fan stopped spinning. I installed TG Pro and sure enough it was showing 0rpm.

So i bought a new fan and followed iFixit guide to install it but even the new fan is not working.

What could be the issue here?

I read somewhere that cold solder on fan controller(?) might be the issue. I have attached the image below of the fan connector area. Can anyone help me point out what i could do to fix this without having to go to Apple?

Apple HT shows “there maybe a problem with fan PPF003“

⟐ Commented Temmuz 30, 2026 at 23:53 GMT-7

⟐ Answer edited Temmuz 29, 2026 at 19:22 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted Temmuz 28, 2026 at 7:50 GMT-7

I have everything you need (or so I think) to use my imac lcd panel (panel LM240WU2 ( SL) ( B4 ) ) as a monitor for other pc

http://i62.tinypic.com/112e876.jpg

http://i61.tinypic.com/2mwxct2.jpg

also I connect the cable from the inverter to the lcd

this http://i59.tinypic.com/f10dts.jpg to http://i57.tinypic.com/f2itxd.jpg

Connect the power cord from the iMac ( white ) energy to the panel. and I connect the power adapter to the board vga 12V 2A

but does not work , connect via a PC to give vga video signal and does not work

do I wrong ?

Help please :(

⟐ Answer edited Temmuz 25, 2026 at 5:17 GMT-7

⟐ Commented Temmuz 24, 2026 at 12:23 GMT-7

I have now created a flash drive with Mac OS El Capitan on it, but when I start the machine and hold down Alt on my keyboard, it boots straight into Mint and does not let me select the installer USB.

Any idea what's going on?

⟐ Answered Temmuz 24, 2026 at 10:34 GMT-7

⟐ Answered Temmuz 20, 2026 at 16:54 GMT-7

It has been half a year since the release and still there is no guide available for this.

That's weird, I thought the only purpose and business of ifixit was exactly doing this, and there is still no effort put into this.

Is there any plan for it? I am really looking forward to see it, and decide if I am getting a Mac Studio M4 for that reason... or not.

Thanks

⟐ Answer accepted Temmuz 18, 2026 at 2:34 GMT-7

What improvements can be made to this machine to optimize it speed and efficiency

⟐ Answered Temmuz 15, 2026 at 13:04 GMT-7

It’s not the display or the cable as I’ve tried both on another iMac 5K.

I’ve seen this (the logic board connector) referred to as a LVDS or a special eDP connector.

*Where can I buy this? And can I find someone to solder/replace it for me?

I’ve also tried reseating the cables with no luck. Is there something else I could try?

It’s one of the i7 models with m395x. I’d hate to junk it.

⟐ Commented Temmuz 13, 2026 at 11:39 GMT-7

⟐ Commented Temmuz 10, 2026 at 6:49 GMT-7