I'm new here, and i just want to be sure i don't buy anything that isn't going to work.

i won't to upgrade my SSD(128 GB) to a larger one. but when i search on the web, most of the solutions only work on a older model than mine ( model ID: 11,1).

so my question is, is it possible to upgrade my SSD on my MacbookPro 11,1 13 inch retina?

⟐ Commented Temmuz 10, 2020 at 5:59 GMT-7

⟐ Answered Ekim 17, 2022 at 13:13 GMT-7

⟐ Answer edited Aralık 28, 2024 at 7:44 GMT-7

⟐ Answered Mart 28, 2023 at 14:19 GMT-7

⟐ Commented Mayıs 10, 2021 at 15:29 GMT-7

⟐ Answer deleted Eylül 20, 2021 at 7:10 GMT-7

⟐ Answered Ocak 29, 2021 at 12:01 GMT-7

⟐ Commented Haziran 08, 2020 at 12:22 GMT-7

Appreciate any kind of help in the regards in solving this issue.

Thanks

⟐ Commented Ağustos 23, 2018 at 14:46 GMT-7

Thank you

⟐ Answer edited Eylül 25, 2015 at 21:27 GMT-7

After five years of use and abuse, my old PowerBook is showing its age. The DVD drive, main battery, and the PRAM battery are dead; and the LCD backlight, latch, and hinge are failing.

Because I can't justify the cost of the replacement battery and such, and due to the damaged LCD panel and hinge, I plan to use it as a small desktop Mac, with an external display, keyboard/mouse, and DVD drive attached. To prevent overheating, I would like to remove the LCD panel entirely. This way, I can simply place the "headless PowerBook" upright in a stand, behind an external 17" LCD monitor I have - a sort of "DIY iMac".

However, once I pull the LCD panel assembly out (Via this tutorial) is there anything I need to do to operate it safely without the panel? For example, do I need to make a cover for the back of the computer? What do I do with the monitor data and grounding cable?

Thanks for any tips!

⟐ Answer edited Eylül 12, 2014 at 6:45 GMT-7

The MBP chimes. The keyboard backlight activates. I can adjust the speaker volume. I can adjust the keyboard backlight brightness. I can eject optical disks.

I'm considering baking the BGA back into place. I have a small toaster oven. I have aluminum foil. I have a heat gun. I even have blue Fun-Tak for protecting certain parts (it was featured in an XBox 360 fix using a heat gun).

I'd love to know the best way to bake the board with respect to:

- proper equipment (kitchen over, heat gun, toaster oven, something else?)

- protecting the other parts on the logic board

- temperature and duration

- cooling procedure

Thanks for reading!

I can confirm Matthew's fix. It worked not only for the MacBook Pro featured in the original posting, but also for another MBP which exhibited similar symptoms.

The originally featured MBP actually failed to chime. I completely wrapped it in a quilt, let it sit upside-down, and played Halo for 1:45. I made a point to disturb the MBP as little as possible as I unwrapped the quilt. Yes, the underside was very hot. I let it cool down on its own. Afterwards, I was able to reset the PRAM (by holding down the power button) and was able to boot up the MBP. Subsequent sessions degraded the video. It went from working perfectly to displaying only the top third of the screen to completely reverting to its previous bad state. One more session in the hot quilt fixed that. The MBP behaves as expected, and the only quirk exhibits itself when the MBP runs without a battery - the Magsafe LED would blink sometimes or not activate at all. So far, I have been able to work around it by inserting a battery.

The second MBP also failed to chime, but I heard a fan, and wrapped it in the quilt (acrylic yarn), heated it up and let it cool naturally. It's essentially back to working order.

⟐ Edited Kasım 23, 2020 at 10:52 GMT-7

I own a MacBook Pro 13' 2011 and my wife has a MacBook 13' Unibody late 2008. I recently upgraded the RAM of my MBP from 4GB to 8GB, but my wife only has 2GB in her MB.

The RAM of the MacBook is : 204-pin PC3-8500 (1066 MHz) DDR3 SO-DIMM

The one of my MacBook Pro is : 204-pin PC-10600 (1333 MHz) DDR3 SO-DIMM

My question is, can I put my old 2x2GB 1333MHz in her 1066MHz RAM slots without any problem ? Will it work ?

Thank you

⟐ Commented Ocak 29, 2020 at 17:40 GMT-7

Thanks for the great site. I have fixed and repaired a lot of stuff using your guides. Clear and easy to follow!

Do you have any solutions to the wide spread MacBook Pro 2011 GPU Glitch?

http://action.mbp2011.com/

We are a lot of affected user that would love to get our MBP's up and running again.

Are there any hardware repairs or replacement one can do?

Here's a hack that sounds plausible but havent tried myself:

http://www.asyncro.com/2014/03/24/macboo...

Facebook group:

https://www.facebook.com/groups/2011mbp/

Thanks again iFixit would love to hear your feedback! Apple remains silent.

⟐ Answered Nisan 13, 2022 at 0:33 GMT-7

I was wondering if there´s a way to replace/upgrade my graphics card.

On the System preferences I see that I have two graphic cards. One of those is integrated and the other one is using a PCIE connection, that's the one that I want to change.

Is that possible? Anyone did it?

Thanks you guys and thank you iFixit!!

⟐ Commented Ekim 18, 2022 at 8:21 GMT-7

I found some annoy Screen issue when I shut down may MBP

Nov 23: I went to Apple Authorized Shop to check AR Coating issue, They accepted my case to change screen part.

Nov 27 noon: I got my MBP back with new screen.

Nov 27 night: I found this issue when I shut down. So I restarted many times, found this problem shown 9 in 10 times shut down.

Nov 28 noon: I went back to Authorized Shop again to show this problem to staff. They have check and said this issue can not found when Shut down by Safe Mode. It may cause of some software problem. So they suggested to me to format MBP and reinstall OS. So, I Agreed to do that. After 1 Hour for it to finish. I’ve checked many time by shut down at shop. This problem didn’t show again in that time or I came back and use MBP at home. their was no problem in that night Shut down.

Nov 29 night: This Issue came back again!!! I can claim Screen from Authorized Shop because still have 90 days replacing-part warranty but still concern that may damage from other part. My MBP has no Apple Care. and this issue never show before replace new screen.

This is my Screen when I shoot clip and capture shut down moment.

⟐ Commented Ağustos 04, 2022 at 11:29 GMT-7

This is my progress on removing the anti-glare coating after 2 hours. I tried Listerine, 90% alcohol, Peek Metal Polish, anti-bacterial wipes, bleach, and nail polish remover w/ acetone (before I read that someone else damaged the glass itself because of acetone). Luckily, my glass is still fine. Unfortunately, I haven't made much progress as you can see from the picture. I'm confused to why none of the solutions isn't working for me. Some said that Listerine alone worked well along with a microfiber cloth. I tried that but since it didn't work I moved on to try all the other solutions I mentioned. Is anyone else having this issue dispite of trying all kinds of solutions? And is there any other alternatives that would make it simple to remove w/o much time being spent?

⟐ Commented Ağustos 29, 2024 at 7:10 GMT-7

⟐ Commented Nisan 28, 2020 at 10:30 GMT-7

Back to the original 4 GB RAM and starts up like a charm. High Sierra and all else is up to date. Tried running the EFI updater available for my machine and got message that it's not supported by my system.

Took out one of the 2 GB sticks and put in one of the 8 GB sticks. Started right up and system info says it is running 10 GB RAM. Took that 8 out and put in other 8 and same result. Runs great. So the RAM I bought is not bad and my RAM slots both work, but it won't run with both 8 GB sticks.

Anyone encounter this too and if so is there a way to get all 16 GB of RAM to work?

• Model Name: MacBook Pro
• Model Identifier: MacBookPro7,1
• Processor Name: Intel Core 2 Duo
• Processor Speed: 2.66 GHz
• Number of Processors: 1
• Total Number of Cores: 2
• L2 Cache: 3 MB
• Memory: 10 GB
• Bus Speed: 1.07 GHz
• Boot ROM Version: MBP71.003F.B00
• SMC Version (system): 1.62f7

If you need more system info to provide help, don't hesitate to ask.

⟐ Commented Eylül 22, 2021 at 7:56 GMT-7

A1502, purchased in March 2014, has suddenly created a pretty nasty problem.

Went to boot one day and *chime!* but no screen. Apple logo on the back lit up, backlight was obviously working, but ZERO display workings.

Okay, so I plug in an external monitor. Nothing. "HDMI signal not detected." Okay, so I do the Googles, read the reddit, etc etc. Reset NVRAM/PRAM, reset SMC, no luck. Try booting Command+D Diag. mode, and output on external monitor! However, white progress boot bar hangs at 1/2way for 3.6 hours. So I Safe Boot (Power+Shift). Finally, I can use my external monitor! I can get into my mac and mirror displays, so that I can offload my data. Great.

I know the int. screen isn't working-- that's not the discussion.

Here's the question: When I boot normally in clamshell-closed mode, external monitor works perfectly. But the second I open the lid (i.e. use keyboard) EVERYTHING GOES BLACK AND TURNS OFF. Then, I must boot into safe mode to use the mac again! And the cycle repeats itself... What is the culprit here? Iris video card, Logic board, loose internal connector, or all of the above? Is the internal display issue and this issue related at all?

P.S. Congrats for getting this far. I know the writing is dense.

Thank ya much,

Nick Flint

⟐ Answered Mart 21, 2025 at 19:55 GMT-7