⟐ Answered Şubat 15, 2026 at 16:54 GMT-7

⟐ Answered Temmuz 22, 2025 at 0:55 GMT-7

⟐ Answered Nisan 28, 2024 at 15:14 GMT-7

⟐ Commented Nisan 18, 2024 at 15:14 GMT-7

However, the rear case is still firmly stuck near the L1 and R1 triggers. I've read about the hidden clips in newer revisions and tried prying the rear shell outwards while pulling up, but they won't budge. I'm afraid of applying too much force and cracking the shell or breaking the motherboard.

Does anyone have a specific trick or a different angle for a spudger to pop these specific 'hidden' clips near the shoulder buttons without damaging the plastic?

⟐ Edited Temmuz 07, 2026 at 1:04 GMT-7

I have tried:

1. Using the DualShock Calibration GUI on a PC, but it didn't work.

2. Using the DriftGuard app on an Android phone via USB-C, but it fails to save the calibration permanently.

3. Hard-resetting the controller using the pinhole on the back.

The main issue is that I do NOT have access to a PC at home to run complex Python scripts or specialized tools. Is there any known way to permanently save Hall Effect calibration on firmware A-0630 using only a mobile phone or a specific button combination on the controller itself? Or is there a newer mobile-friendly tool that supports this firmware?

Ive tried multiple troubleshooting steps like calibrating it but it works for the moment its connected only once its disconnected from the calibrating source it starts drifting again

⟐ Commented Temmuz 06, 2026 at 4:20 GMT-7

Currently I've been working on my uncle's controller for a few hours now that I got the charging port replacement I need. I've done what I've usually do, try and learn about the part I'm dissembling, the only problem I keep finding is.. there's no videos about the exact motherboard my uncle's controller have, not only that but it also has a surface mounted charging port or "SMD" for short. Tried using some solder and flux to get the said SMD off but I can't, even then the motherboard has the white plastic block extremely close to the 5 pins in the back so the soldering tool my uncle bought me can't get in-between unless I wanna melt the tan ribbon and the white plastic block. I'm making this in hoping there's someone out there that has to replace a charging port on a MSU_VX8_0.14 before. Also, the SMD has four legs that sits on top of the motherboard with two plastic legs that go through said motherboard and 5 pins in a line in the back. Help would really be appreciated, anyways I hope everyone is having a good day.

⟐ Commented Temmuz 05, 2026 at 23:47 GMT-7

I put in new tmr sticks in my duelsense v2 controller. I accidentally stripped out the through hole for the middle pin on the right of the board but it came out whole so I took it and pushed it back in the hole. Now after fully soldering in the tmr stick that one is hard stuck to the left when trying to calibrate it.

⟐ Commented Haziran 30, 2026 at 9:15 GMT-7

⟐ Answered Haziran 28, 2026 at 13:52 GMT-7

I'm asking a question: where I can get the replacement 6-pin ribbon cable for my DualSense Edge? I had accidentally damaged the cable during reassembly, and I need the replacement ribbon cable real quick.

It has to be within the exact specfication:

• 6-pin
• 0.5mm pitch, which is the same as the trigger ribbon cable
• 3.8 to 4 cm in length. The reason why it has to be in this specific length is because if it's too long, it will push against the back shell of the controller, and if it's too short and the cable won't reach either the mainboard connector or the sub boards (which contains both the back buttons and the relays to the rumble motor)
• Conductors has to be on the same side.

I can't find the exact cable on e-commerce stores Aliexpress, hence why I asked for help here,

Update: Here's the picture of the cable in question:

⟐ Commented Haziran 27, 2026 at 2:34 GMT-7