⟐ Commented Ağustos 09, 2026 at 11:51 GMT-7

The issue is that, although the display shows those target temperatures, the freezer is actually just cool but not cold. The fan isn’t running. If I unplug and plug the fridge back in, the temperatures on the display update correctly with the real values (it shows 9°C for both the freezer and fridge), and the fan starts running again. After about two hours, the temperature drops slowly, until the display goes back to showing -25°C for the freezer, and the fan stops once more.

It seems like the sensor doesn’t register rising temperatures unless I power cycle the fridge. I even replaced the cover that includes the sensor + fan (with the exact same reference part), but the issue keeps happening.

So my question is: why does the freezer work for a while and then stop, only restarting if I unplug and replug the fridge?

⟐ Commented Ağustos 01, 2026 at 21:18 GMT-7

er code. compressor on, but won't cool. checked door, square was cracked and glued, put screw back in. when I check for temperature, Pc ER comes back on again, I open door and close again and code disappears, then comes back Amelia, any clue as to whats wrong?

Er

⟐ Edited Temmuz 24, 2026 at 23:26 GMT-7

⟐ Commented Temmuz 24, 2026 at 16:11 GMT-7

⟐ Answered Temmuz 15, 2026 at 7:45 GMT-7

I’ve tried to reset, checked the arm for frozen ice, checked 100+ times to ensure it was put back into the freezer properly, and nada.

I’m typically a “pro” at fixing just about anything, including the “motherboard” on my former LG frig. So not being able to figure this one out has me extremely frustrated.

Any help/ advice would be appreciated!

Thank you!

Nikki

⟐ Commented Temmuz 15, 2026 at 6:05 GMT-7

⟐ Answered Temmuz 03, 2026 at 21:34 GMT-7

I replaced the main board and it looks to be cooling better now, but the display is still dead.

To replace the interior display and control board (like in the pic), is this just held on by some clips, so I just need to take a spudger to it from the top to pop it out? I'd just prefer not to break something in the process, and there aren't any exposed fasteners.

⟐ Answer accepted Haziran 29, 2026 at 6:57 GMT-7

Went through every diagnostic I can find online to check on the front panel and I can set the freezer to 0 and the refrigerator to 38, but within a few seconds the desired temperatures disappear and the internal temps for both sides come up as 70 and 73, respectively.

Any ideas at all? I'm not a appliance technician, just a farmer/rancher/teacher with a Master's degree and a trailer load of common sense, so it's not like I'm new to fixing things. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

⟐ Answered Haziran 23, 2026 at 12:02 GMT-7

⟐ Answer edited Haziran 16, 2026 at 8:41 GMT-7

⟐ Answer edited Haziran 09, 2026 at 8:12 GMT-7

It is not starting automatically

⟐ Commented Haziran 09, 2026 at 7:58 GMT-7

The beverage center stopped producing water for both the pitcher and the manual dispenser. When the manual dispenser paddle is pressed, the pump motor can be heard humming, but only a few drops of water emerge.

After a great deal of research and troubleshooting, I purchased a replacement beverage center (part #DA97-17399J), which, once installed, worked as expected. Problem solved? Unfortunately, no, as the new/replacement unit only worked for a few weeks before exhibiting the exact same symptoms as the original unit.

Some other notes:

• The symptoms occur with and without the water filter installed. The filter has also been replaced.
• The ice maker continues to work just fine.
• Removing the beverage center and letting it sit at room temperature for a while and then reinstalling did not resolve the issue.
• With the wiring harness connected, but with the water supply hose still disconnected, pressing the manual dispenser paddle results in plenty of water flowing from the main refrigerator.

That last point makes me think that the problem is between the supply line from the refrigerator body and the beverage center pump. In the attached photo, I've highlighted the component that I suspect is the culprit, which looks like a solenoid valve.

Does anyone have any thoughts on why this is happening, and if there is a solution other than replacing the unit again and hoping the problem doesn't return?

Thanks in advance.

⟐ Commented Haziran 05, 2026 at 23:57 GMT-7

⟐ Answered Haziran 05, 2026 at 23:41 GMT-7

About a year ago we had a Samsung tech out to our home and he replaced the heating element that runs along the sides/bottom…parts and labor ~$200. As you can see from the attached picture, the bottom portion seems just fine, so it’s not the drain jamming up, for which I’ve seen some parts that can be bought to conduct more heat to the drain hole. Something is happening to quickly accumulate ice in the upper portion…assuming it’s a leak of sorts? The noise is starting to brew again today, so this week I will be back into the fridge for a defrost…any recommendations for a more permanent solve? Thoughts on a copper wire wrapped around the heating element and extended to the upper portion to conduct some heat up there to avoid the ice build up? Sorry if this is a naïve question, but is low freon a potential issue here? If so, how to diagnose and/or recharge?

The fridge works fine otherwise…some freezing of the upper ice maker a few times a year…but general cooling is working…so I’m hopeful that there’s a simple MacGyver fix here that will keep me from clearing the contents of the fridge and defrosting every 4-6 weeks in the summer months. Thanks in advance for the help.

As an update, we are experiencing the re-occurrence of fan noise routinely around every 4-5 weeks...I'm getting rather swift with the removal of contents/shelves from the fridge and hair-dryer defrost of the back wall...can usually have all put back together within 40-60 minutes. Build-up seems faster in the summer months where the humidity is higher here in WI...it gets dry in the winters and I'm expecting that we can go months if I can gut through the summer. With inspiration from the video linked below I've purchased an SH502 heater for ~$20 from Amazon and intend to install one of the next times we open up the unit...unless someone advises otherwise in this thread. Condensation is appearing quickly even while I defrost...so maybe a little caulk on the entry point near the top will be in order too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QtcU0XNi...

⟐ Answered Mayıs 22, 2026 at 7:23 GMT-7

Error Code (if any): NA
Parts or tests already tried: NA
Photos / video link: SamsungIceMakerPart - Google Drive

Trying to identify this part. It is a bit melted from when I used a heat gun to melt some ice ('I know, bad idea). This is the plastic piece that protects the Styrofoam surrounding the freezing element in the Ice Master ice maker. It goes around the element and the foam. The auger assembly actually slides into this and the fan mates up with the bottom.

⟐ Answer edited Mayıs 19, 2026 at 8:15 GMT-7

⟐ Answered Mayıs 11, 2026 at 6:19 GMT-7

• There is no ice build up.
• The fan by the evaporator panel is running.
• The fan by the compressor is running
• The LED on the inverter is ON and solid (no blinks).
• We replaced the inverter board just to be sure.
• The U-V-W connectors to the compressor show about ~15 ohms between them.
• Thermistor in freezer is showing expected values for room temperature.

It seems and sounds like everything is running properly but the freezer is still room temperature. My current belief is that its a problem with the compressor. It is running, it's making humming sounds like the motor is running but the compressor itself is getting hot and all of the tubes coming out of the compressor are room temperature.

I'd like to not replace the compressor. From what I hear it is expensive and I don't think I can do it myself. If anyone has any other ideas, I'm all ears.

⟐ Answer edited Nisan 24, 2026 at 3:01 GMT-7