⟐ Answered Temmuz 23, 2024 at 21:29 GMT-7

⟐ Answered Nisan 17, 2024 at 2:57 GMT-7

⟐ Answered Haziran 04, 2026 at 19:23 GMT-7

I have opened it almost everything and managed to take it front face off and got the clothes out.

I have measured the Noise Filter (DC29-00013A). Its input side is 121V and output side is 121V. The wall plug is 121V. At the same time, there is no any responses, or led lights on at all.

I am not sure if the Filter is good and working? do I need to replace it?

I have checked the water pump (inlet and outlet) and see nothing except water.

What else I should check? How can I know if the PCB (the main control board) is working or dead? There is no sign of burning on it or anywhere.

Please help. Thank you in advance!

⟐ Answered Nisan 21, 2026 at 3:52 GMT-7

My 14 month old (warranty expired) front loader Samsung wf45k6500av/a2 is leaking water from around the drain pump filter cap during the whole cycle.

Do you think I just need a new drain pump filter cap or is there a bigger problem?

And yes, the filter is clean, nothing seems to be lodged in the tubes either.

⟐ Answer accepted Mart 31, 2026 at 6:13 GMT-7

I have a problem with the water heater.

I have a problem with the water heater in my automatic washing machine, and a code appears he.

⟐ Answered Mart 23, 2026 at 7:23 GMT-7

My Samsung washing machine stopped and powered off mid cycle I think. It will not turn on. The door will not open. It is 1.5 years old. The year warranty ended in January.

Things I've tried:

- Checking the breaker, resetting it (off and back on).

- Testing the breaker itself to make sure it trips properly.

- Turning the breaker/power off for 10+ minutes then back on.

Note: The washer is on its own breaker and nothing else is plugged into the same outlet.

- Plugged something else into the outlet to confirm that it does indeed have power.

- Drained the liquid inside and cleaned the filter

I have removed the top panel and briefly examined the main PCB and other visible connections to see if anything was obviously loose. I have not removed the front panel.

I'm also not sure how to manually unlock the door, as I see no obvious tab to pull.

I have a multimeter, but have barely used it in the past, but with some help, I can check for continuity or for power somewhere if someone can suggest a place.

Im not quite aure where a fuse would be located on the PCB or washer in general, but maybe that is something to check?

Do you have any suggestions of things to try?

⟐ Commented Mart 22, 2026 at 3:58 GMT-7

⟐ Commented Mart 04, 2026 at 1:31 GMT-7

⟐ Commented Ocak 27, 2026 at 1:55 GMT-7

About a year ago (almost to the day!!!), I had a load of washing that I couldn't get out of my washer because the door wouldn't open. Upon investigation I found that the door interlock has burnt out. I'm not sure what the piece is called that connects to the interlock (connector block?), but it was badly burnt and slightly melted, although the 3 metal contacts were still intact. Some of the interlock was damaged too, so I bought a new interlock and fit it to the burnt connector and it has been fine since. But this evening during a wash, my machine started beeping to say there was a door error - that it wasn't closed. When I pushed on the door, I heard a buzzing noise and the lock icon was shown on the display, but when I tried to rerun the wash, it said the same error. I'm not sure what to do? Do I buy a new interlock, or is the connector the problem - if so are these replaceable too, or does it mean I need a new machine? :(

⟐ Answer accepted Ocak 22, 2026 at 12:14 GMT-7

How does the machine sense if the door is closed/locked? Is there a prox switch or is it measuring psi on the latch?

Is there a specific schematic for that part? Thanks

⟐ Answer accepted Ocak 22, 2026 at 12:08 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted Ocak 22, 2026 at 12:06 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted Ocak 22, 2026 at 8:40 GMT-7

Stated it need two parts Motor Stator DC31-00124A and Washer Motor Position Hall sensor.

I replaced both and now water goes in in small bursts lasting maybe 2-3 seconds then water shuts off for a few seconds then water comes in again for 2-3 seconds. This goes on for about a minute maybe then stops. No error codes time still showing but not counting down. Tub never moves during any of this time. There is a noise sounding like the motor but tub doesnt move. Tub moves very easily if you move it by hand.

please help

⟐ Commented Ocak 12, 2026 at 19:02 GMT-7

⟐ Commented Ocak 02, 2026 at 2:14 GMT-7

⟐ Answered Aralık 17, 2025 at 0:31 GMT-7

⟐ Answered Aralık 11, 2025 at 12:01 GMT-7

The error code 3E keeps showing up on the machine at the start of the cycle. It won’t spin or start a rinse cycle or anything. I run the machine on test mode and when I select either spin or rinse it comes up with the error. I took the motor out and checked the bushes and they are all fine, but when I remove the top of the washing machine and play around with the wire harnessing and making sure plugs are pushed all the way in (I don’t really feel like I do anything to them) it starts working again! I have done this twice now and then it will stop working again after 4 or 5 washes. I’m not sure what would be causing it but I’m hoping someone could help me narrow it down so I can get it fixed permanently without having to get a new machine. Cheers

⟐ Commented Kasım 25, 2025 at 10:35 GMT-7