⟐ Commented Eylül 15, 2018 at 10:33 GMT-7

If they open it and try to repair/exchange the lightningsocket (or whatever its called) apple warranty is void. (Ipad is just about 2 month old)

Now on the other hand apple probably wont repair but just offre an replacement for unbelievable 380 €!!!! 380 € because a loading cable broke!!!! And apple build this thing in a way thats a) hypersensitive and b) refuse to repair it!

I really hope anybody here has got a better idea?

thanks!

⟐ Answered Şubat 24, 2016 at 3:45 GMT-7

so a few months back (like 2-3 months) my dad got very mad (unexpected) and my ipad was on the table. he threw my ipad very hard into the floor (and the floor cracked along with my ipad). the corners of one half of the ipad was cracked (the other half wasn’t cracked as badly). and surprisingly and fortunately it still works (everything was normal except my microphone doesn’t work and the camera was blurry bc my mom had to tape near it and it sorta covered it).

so a day or two before, it started acting up. like i tried to unlock my ipad and i pressed one number (passcode) and the ipad itself just started spamming the passcode and i was forced to close it. i tried again and once again the ipad started spamming the passcode numbers and the try again after 1 minute lock came on. so i left it alone cuz i thought it would fix itself after a night. so yesterday morning i opened it, thinking it fixed itself because the passcode part had no problems. then after a few minutes, it started acting up. i went into safari— the search bar just went up and down and up and down (it wasn’t spamming letters it was just the screen). i tried roblox, went into adopt me, the starting screen kept on spamming me, every time i would press no the same question/sign would pop right back up (it’s not supposed to). for ex: it would say do u want to teleport to the hat shop yes or no and i would press no but the same sign kept on popping up so i couldn’t even play. the screen was moving itself. (spamming letters on my keyboard only happened once, just the passcode.)

help me is it just broken? yes i’ve tried shutting it down.

⟐ Commented Ocak 16, 2026 at 7:44 GMT-7

I got three iPads lying around with various defects and I'm trying to make a single properly functioning one out of them.

• The iPad Air 2 LTE (A1567) has a near-dead battery
• The iPad 5th's (A1822) screen is cracked and loose every which way
• The iPad 7th (A2197), according to the Apple Store has a dead logic board (won't boot / goes into reboot cycle)

Far as I can tell my options are to either repair/replace 7's board or replace the Air 2's battery.

So I was wondering if the apparently different model battery from the iPad 5 would be okay to fit into the Air 2?

(Sorry if it's an obvious 'no way'. Not an expert by any stretch.)

Many thanks

⟐ Answered Ağustos 25, 2024 at 4:48 GMT-7

⟐ Commented Ekim 25, 2023 at 10:21 GMT-7

⟐ Answered Şubat 23, 2022 at 12:32 GMT-7

I unplugged the screen cables and plugged them back in this time correctly and attempted another test. This time the screen had no picture anymore but the touch is still working since this time i was able to blindly navigate myself and turn it off.

My question is have I blown the screen now by unplugging the battery when ipad was on? Or maybe is there something I can do to get it back? Also for future reference how do i turn off the ipad when touch is not working?

⟐ Answer accepted Haziran 27, 2021 at 17:39 GMT-7

When the battery is fully drained charging start to 2% when it boots the OS and then stops the charging.

I tried to force restart (home and sleep/wake button), nothing changed but when I didn't release the buttons after the first restart, the screen turned on with the sign "connect to iTunes”, a few minutes later the iPad restarted automatically and it was at a higher battery percentage than before, so I think when the last screen was active, it was charging at the background. So I did this process again and again, and the battery percentage was higher at every restart. Once when I did this restart method I left the iPad to charge with the “connect to iTunes” screen and after the next restart the charging didn’t stop till the battery percentage was 98%.

Another surprise when I connected the iPad to my MacBook Pro when it was fully drained, the charging was started and at 2% the OS booted on the iPad and iTunes started to syncing my device. I made a backup save and then upgraded to iOS 11.2.6. checked the battery with Coconut Battery(145 loadcycles, 6975 mAh capacity, 95% health, good condition).

Nothing changed after that. The device won’t charge and sync when the iOS is running but if I restart when plugged in to my MacBook Pro it is syncing and charging, till 95% the charging icon is active next to the battery sign, after that the charging icon fades away (checked on iTunes too) but the charging doesn’t stop.

Any good ideas? I don’t know how can I solve this problem. I called the local Apple Authorized Service Provider (Budapest, Hungary) they said that "This is a fault of the logic board can’t repair only change the full part"...

⟐ Commented Mart 12, 2021 at 19:09 GMT-7

Hi all,

who can help me with my wife’s Ipad Air 2 Cellular 128GB? It fell down – at first we thought to be lucky. It crashed on the back leaving a heavy dent mark and a bended frame but the display was OK. But then we saw that the wifi / cellular function became inaccessible. The wifi icon is greyed out and the cellular option are no longer shown in the menu at all.

After reading several tips like resetting the network settings, turning on / off in flight mode or completely restoring in DFU mode I decided that it is definitely an HW issue. It seems that the mainboard is still OK. The Ipad still shows the MAC address and BT is working fine. So the communication to the radio interface seems to be working. So my assumption is that one of the antennas is broken. So I ended up with opening the ipad – worked fine. First I bent back the frame and disconnected all antennas – 3 cables, two going to top, one to the down side which seems to be connected to the housing. Unfortunately, I didn’t help – wifi is still greyed out. So my assumption is that either radio is checking the antennas for the right impedance / resistance or the dent mark in the housing is grounding some parts on the back of the mainboard.

This leads to four questions:

First, is there any chance to check the antennas for defects, maybe by measuring the resistance?

Second, is it wise to order a “new” set of antennas on eBay. They don’t costs too much but is there any chance that they will solve the issue?

Third, should I remove the board and hammer out the dent mark? Is there anything on the back of the board which could be grounded by the housing causing the issue?

Fourth, should I scrap the device and sell it as spare parts?

Scrapping it would be a shame though as it seems to work fine except for wifi / cellular functions.

Many Thanks, Daniel

PS: the dent mark is underneath the mainboard, near the right rim, rather in the middle where shilded part and the black foiled part are touching (on the same height where two battery cells are touching).

⟐ Commented Şubat 04, 2021 at 15:13 GMT-7

I don't know much about electronics on a hardware level but I would like to somehow remove the radio without bricking the Ipad. Can it be done? Does anyone know how to do this?

⟐ Commented Kasım 04, 2020 at 17:49 GMT-7

⟐ Answered Ocak 05, 2020 at 16:32 GMT-7

Update: I should clarify the old damaged screen works but has lines all up and down it. But it does actually display something whereas the new screen shows absolutely nothing.

Has as anyone else experienced this?!

⟐ Answer accepted Kasım 26, 2019 at 5:46 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted Haziran 18, 2019 at 5:07 GMT-7

My iPad Air 2 battery got weak, and my volume down button stopped working.

So I bought:

- New battery $19.50

- New volume-microphone flex cable $4.00

- Pre cut adhesive strips $4.50

Installed everything with utmost care. Unfortunately I forgot to reinstall the plate that secures the cables connecting the LCD to the iPad. So I reopened the iPad, this time foolishly a tad less careful, so I ended up breaking my LCD screen.

I was devastated.

Had no choice, so ordered and installed a new one for $118.00.

Now I have the following issues:

Issue 1:

The iPad works, but every time the battery drains to zero and I charge it, it boot loops 3 - 4 times before staying turned off for a few minutes. Then boots and charges normally while staying on. But now I have this suspicion that the fully charged battery kinda drains faster than it should. It still lasts a fair bit, but I feel not as long as it should.

And in Settings > Battery, I get no battery info even after using the iPad for a few hours. It just says “Battery information will be available after using the iPad for a few minutes”

Question 1:

Are these sign of a bad/cheap or even damaged replacement battery?

Issue 2:

The new LCD screen displays waves along the left edge when holding the iPad on its left bezel in portrait mode.

On that left bezel the LCD also has a thin line of being a tiny bit dimmer.

Also I’m not sure about this, but I have a slight suspicion that this new LCD has slightly less color saturation, slightly weaker black levels, and kinda worse viewing angles with more blueshift than I think I remember.

Question 2:

Are those commonly known signs of a potentially not as good as original, cheap LCD screen? Or does it sound like a damaged screen?

Issue 3:

I have difficulties with the new LCD staying in the chassis.

I tried the seemingly quality pre cut adhesive strips, but the LCD simply keeps slowly coming off. I then diligently cut fitting strips myself from generic double sided tape we have at home. Which seems to hold in the screen a bit better, but still, the LCD keeps slowly coming off. So I currently constantly keep pressing the edges of my LCD back in to the chassis.

Question 3:

Are there specific pro-tips on how to make sure the LCD stays in the chassis? Or is it not normal for the front to slightly keep pushing out, maybe a sign of the new battery being slightly too thick? I’d really appreciate some experts advice.

Thanks in advance

Update 20.02.2019

Ok after analyzing the new screen some more I can definitely confirm that this new one has noticeably worse viewing angles and color saturation.

I figured because I have my old broken LCD still around I can simply reconnect it and quickly compare image quality.

This is my old screen:

This is my new screen:

Things like this are difficult to capture in pictures, but you can clearly see the new one is washed out in comparison.

⟐ Answer accepted Nisan 14, 2019 at 8:59 GMT-7

Thank You

⟐ Commented Mart 28, 2019 at 23:48 GMT-7

please help!!!

no damage at all

⟐ Answer unaccepted Şubat 08, 2019 at 18:05 GMT-7

⟐ Commented Ocak 12, 2019 at 20:02 GMT-7

I cannot able to do anything on this screen evenpressing on it to bypass this message or go away and use ipad.

The following message is coming

This ipad hasn't been backed up in 15weeks. backups happen when this ipad is plugged in, locked and connected to wi-fi.

What can I do remove this and use ipad

⟐ Comment deleted Mart 11, 2018 at 21:17 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted Temmuz 15, 2017 at 9:49 GMT-7

I have recently purchased an iPad Air 2 off eBay. It was described as working but with a heavily damaged screen. I received the IPad and purchased an OEM LCD and digitiser all in one. After fixing the screen and the iPad booting up fine I found that the digitiser does not work. I rechecked the pins on the board and how they were seated and al was fine.....I eventually put this down to a faulty digitiser.

After sending the screen back and recieveig a replacement I went ahead fitted It, however the problem remains. I very much doubt I have another faulty digitiser so I'm thinking the problem lays elsewhere.

Could any one give me any ideas of what might be causing the problem? I'm out of ideas. I hope it's not a faulty logic board!

EDIT! CHECK THE PICTURES

Thanks in advance.

⟐ Commented Aralık 04, 2016 at 12:41 GMT-7