Güncel sürümün sahibi: Nick
Metin:
| - | The P2015 series is known |
|---|---|
| + | The P2015 series is known for chronic formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's often the formatter on this series. ***''The problem was common on them when they weren't older, but as they age the risk has grown to a point they're not worth buying, and if you own one, plan for failure. If it works, do not stock up on toner. Buy a new printer and run both until it fails. I'd say buy knockoff toner as needed if yours still works.''*** |
| The USB cable fix is worth a shot at this point since the cables are cheap, but just keep in mind it’s likely a bad formatter board and it may not help. If it still has issues, don’t waste any more time on it - it's dead. | |
| - | ***''The defect is repairable, but ANY attempts WILL BE TEMPORARY and it WILL KEEP FAILING! Sell off any spare unopened toner stock and empty anything you have opened while it runs, even if it means printing for friends as a favor with a heads up you're finishing off consumables on a failing printer and it won't last forever. Replace it once you’ve run out of consumables.''*** If you aren't down with recycling, give it away to someone who will use cheap aftermarket toner in it until it fully fails as a nice throwaway printer. While the heatsink patch may help working units |
| + | ***''The defect is repairable, but ANY attempts WILL BE TEMPORARY and it WILL KEEP FAILING! Sell off any spare unopened toner stock and empty anything you have opened while it runs, even if it means printing for friends as a favor with a heads up you're finishing off consumables on a failing printer and it won't last forever. Replace it once you’ve run out of consumables.''*** If you aren't down with recycling, give it away to someone who will use cheap aftermarket toner in it until it fully fails as a nice throwaway printer. While the heatsink patch may help working units that have no early signs of trouble, it doesn’t do a whole lot of good on a failed one as the damage is done. However, it may be enough if you will be happy with the increase. ***''Don’t waste money on a repaired formatter board - they die the same way and some data will be lost forever like the page count, formatter number, and serial number UNLESS you can somehow procure the LJ service tools HP uses or use PJL if it's an option.''*** |
| - | ***Reflowing the formatter board does salvage the printer so I will mention it***, but this is as far as I'd go if I was going to try to repair one of these and I had a lot of leftover toner in a open cartridge when it died. ***''Please use |
| + | ***Reflowing the formatter board does salvage the printer so I will mention it***, but this is as far as I'd go if I was going to try to repair one of these and I had a lot of leftover toner in a open cartridge when it died. ***''Please use an oven that will never see food again. Being a RoHS board helps, but PCB chemicals aren’t something you want to eat.''*** ***Each printer is identical to open up, but with different connections:*** |
| * ***Base (USB only, no other ports, no auto duplex)*** | |
| * ***n (Network, most common)*** | |
| * ***dn (Duplex+network, very common as well)*** | |
| * ***dtn (Duplex, Tray, Network, 2nd tray, uncommon)*** | |
| * ***x (Duplex+network+factory 3rd paper tray, essentially the same as the dtn, only found in large offices)*** | |
| If you do opt to try reflowing the board, here's how to do it: | |
| * Step 1: Remove the formatter board. The board is on the side where the USB and Ethernet ports are. To remove this panel, push it out with a flathead screwdriver. | |
| * Step 2: Once you have the panel off, take a picture of the wiring and keep it for reference. It shouldn't be possible to mix up, but if it's your first try you might want this image. If in doubt, pair each connector with a "mark". | |
| * Step 3: Remove the formatter board screws and unplug the cables going to the board. You will see ~4-5 screws holding it in. If you are not sure you can remember where each screw went, lay them how they came out of the printer but they should be the same. | |
| * Step 4: Find a way to lift the board in the oven. You can do this with anything, but it needs to be 100% flat for this to work correctly. PC standoffs, an aluminum sheet with holes drilled in it for case screws and potentially nuts to keep the board stable will work for this. | |
| * Step 5: To extend the life of the reflow and improve your odds, put liquid flux under all of the chips on the board. The idea is your reflow will be more consistent this way. Just make sure to use no-clean flux or ultrasonic the formatter board after baking it to clean it. | |
| * Step 6: Preheat the oven at 450-500 degrees for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This takes around 5-8 minutes. DO NOT BUMP THE BOARD. Let the board cool for 8-12 hours. | |
| - | * ***''Step 6a: If you used |
| + | * ***''Step 6a: If you used an oven you cook food in, run a cleaning cycle and thoroughly clean it. This does not apply to an oven dedicated to reflow.''*** |
| * Step 7: After letting the board cool, put it back in the printer and try your luck. | |
| ***''Putting a heatsink on the CPU (largest chip on the board) and Ethernet controller (network models) can add more life to your reflowed printer, but it is still temporary. The glue on the back should be sufficient, but if you want to be sure they will not move use thermal Epoxy.''*** |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| - | The P2015 series is known to have widespread formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's often related |
|---|---|
| + | The P2015 series is known to have widespread formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's often formatter related on this series . ***''The problem was common on them when they weren't older, but as they age the risk grows to a point they're not worth buying and if you own one, plan for failure. If it works, so not stock up on toner. Buy a new printer and run both until it fails. I'd say buy knockoff toner as needed if yours still works.''*** |
| - | The USB cable fix is worth a shot at this point since the cables are cheap, but just keep in mind it’s likely a bad formatter board. |
| + | The USB cable fix is worth a shot at this point since the cables are cheap, but just keep in mind it’s likely a bad formatter board and it may not help. If it still has issues, don’t waste any more time on it - it's dead. |
| - | The defect is repairable, but ANY attempts WILL BE TEMPORARY and it WILL KEEP FAILING! Sell off |
| + | ***''The defect is repairable, but ANY attempts WILL BE TEMPORARY and it WILL KEEP FAILING! Sell off any spare unopened toner stock and empty anything you have opened while it runs, even if it means printing for friends as a favor with a heads up you're finishing off consumables on a failing printer and it won't last forever. Replace it once you’ve run out of consumables.''*** If you aren't down with recycling, give it away to someone who will use cheap aftermarket toner in it until it fully fails as a nice throwaway printer. While the heatsink patch may help working units which have no early signs of trouble, it doesn’t do a whole lot of good on a failed one as the damage is done. However, it may be enough you will be happy with the increase. ***''Don’t waste money on a repaired formatter board - they die the same way and some data will be lost forever like the page count, formatter number and serial number UNLESS you can somehow procure the LJ service tools HP uses or use PJL if it's an option.''*** |
| - | ***Reflowing the formatter board does salvage the printer so I will mention it***, but this is as far as I'd go if I was going to try to repair one of these and I had a lot of leftover toner when it died. ***''Please use a oven that will never see food again. Being RoHS helps, but PCB chemicals aren’t something you want to eat.''*** ***Each printer is identical to open up, but with different connections |
| + | ***Reflowing the formatter board does salvage the printer so I will mention it***, but this is as far as I'd go if I was going to try to repair one of these and I had a lot of leftover toner in a open cartridge when it died. ***''Please use a oven that will never see food again. Being a RoHS board helps, but PCB chemicals aren’t something you want to eat.''*** ***Each printer is identical to open up, but with different connections:*** |
| - | ***NOTE: dtn/x have the same connectors - x means 3rd paper tray.*** |
| - | |
| + | * ***Base (USB only, no other ports, no auto duplex)*** |
| + | * ***n (Network, most common)*** |
| + | * ***dn (Duplex+network, very common as well)*** |
| + | * ***dtn (Duplex, Tray, Network, 2nd tray, uncommon)*** |
| + | * ***x (Duplex+network+factory 3rd paper tray, essentially the same as the dtn, only found in large offices)*** |
| If you do opt to try reflowing the board, here's how to do it: | |
| - | * Step 1: Remove the formatter board. The board is on the side where the USB and Ethernet |
| - | * Step 2: Once you have the panel off, take a picture of the wiring and keep it for reference. It shouldn't be possible to mix up, but if it's your first try you might want this image. |
| + | * Step 1: Remove the formatter board. The board is on the side where the USB and Ethernet ports are. To remove this panel, push it out with a flathead screwdriver. |
| + | * Step 2: Once you have the panel off, take a picture of the wiring and keep it for reference. It shouldn't be possible to mix up, but if it's your first try you might want this image. If in doubt, pair each connector with a "mark". |
| * Step 3: Remove the formatter board screws and unplug the cables going to the board. You will see ~4-5 screws holding it in. If you are not sure you can remember where each screw went, lay them how they came out of the printer but they should be the same. | |
| * Step 4: Find a way to lift the board in the oven. You can do this with anything, but it needs to be 100% flat for this to work correctly. PC standoffs, an aluminum sheet with holes drilled in it for case screws and potentially nuts to keep the board stable will work for this. | |
| * Step 5: To extend the life of the reflow and improve your odds, put liquid flux under all of the chips on the board. The idea is your reflow will be more consistent this way. Just make sure to use no-clean flux or ultrasonic the formatter board after baking it to clean it. | |
| * Step 6: Preheat the oven at 450-500 degrees for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This takes around 5-8 minutes. DO NOT BUMP THE BOARD. Let the board cool for 8-12 hours. | |
| * ***''Step 6a: If you used a oven you cook food in, run a cleaning cycle and thoroughly clean it. This does not apply to an oven dedicated to reflow.''*** | |
| * Step 7: After letting the board cool, put it back in the printer and try your luck. | |
| - | Putting a heatsink on the CPU (largest chip on the board) and Ethernet controller (network models) |
| + | ***''Putting a heatsink on the CPU (largest chip on the board) and Ethernet controller (network models) can add more life to your reflowed printer, but it is still temporary. The glue on the back should be sufficient, but if you want to be sure they will not move use thermal Epoxy.''*** |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| - | The P2015 series is known to have widespread formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's |
|---|---|
| + | The P2015 series is known to have widespread formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's often related to the formatter board. The problem is very common and risk of failure becomes worse as the printer ages. ALL P2015 series printers will eventually fail due to this frankly. |
| - | The USB fix is worth a shot at this point since the cables are cheap, but just keep in mind it’s likely a bad formatter board. Don’t waste any more time on it if it continues to have problems. |
| + | The USB cable fix is worth a shot at this point since the cables are cheap, but just keep in mind it’s likely a bad formatter board. Don’t waste any more time on it if it continues to have problems. |
| - | The defect is repairable, but ANY attempts WILL BE TEMPORARY and it WILL KEEP FAILING! Sell off your unopened toner stock and empty anything you have opened while it runs. Replace it once you’ve run out of consumables - give it away to someone who wants to run it until it dies or recycle it with disclosure the formatter has been reflowed and will fail again. While the heatsink patch may help, it doesn’t do a whole lot foer extending it most of the time. However, it may be enough you will be happy with the lifetime increase. |
| + | The defect is repairable, but ANY attempts WILL BE TEMPORARY and it WILL KEEP FAILING! Sell off your unopened toner stock and empty anything you have opened while it runs. Replace it once you’ve run out of consumables - give it away to someone who wants to run it until it dies or recycle it with disclosure the formatter has been reflowed and will fail again. While the heatsink patch may help, it doesn’t do a whole lot foer extending it most of the time. However, it may be enough you will be happy with the lifetime increase. ***''Don’t waste money on a repaired formatter board - they die the same way and some data will be lost forever like the page count, formatter number and serial number UNLESS you can somehow procure the LJ service tools HP uses.''*** |
| - | |
| + | ***Reflowing the formatter board does salvage the printer so I will mention it***, but this is as far as I'd go if I was going to try to repair one of these and I had a lot of leftover toner when it died. ***''Please use a oven that will never see food again. Being RoHS helps, but PCB chemicals aren’t something you want to eat.''*** ***Each printer is identical to open up, but with different connections (p2015 base, n (Network), dn (Duplex+network), dtn (Duplex, Tray, Network), x (Duplex+network+factory 3rd paper tray).*** |
| - | |
| + | ***NOTE: dtn/x have the same connectors - x means 3rd paper tray.*** |
| If you do opt to try reflowing the board, here's how to do it: | |
| * Step 1: Remove the formatter board. The board is on the side where the USB and Ethernet port are. To remove this panel, push it out with a flathead screwdriver. | |
| * Step 2: Once you have the panel off, take a picture of the wiring and keep it for reference. It shouldn't be possible to mix up, but if it's your first try you might want this image. The network/duplex and network/duplex/add'l tray is going to have more wiring then a base model. | |
| * Step 3: Remove the formatter board screws and unplug the cables going to the board. You will see ~4-5 screws holding it in. If you are not sure you can remember where each screw went, lay them how they came out of the printer but they should be the same. | |
| * Step 4: Find a way to lift the board in the oven. You can do this with anything, but it needs to be 100% flat for this to work correctly. PC standoffs, an aluminum sheet with holes drilled in it for case screws and potentially nuts to keep the board stable will work for this. | |
| * Step 5: To extend the life of the reflow and improve your odds, put liquid flux under all of the chips on the board. The idea is your reflow will be more consistent this way. Just make sure to use no-clean flux or ultrasonic the formatter board after baking it to clean it. | |
| * Step 6: Preheat the oven at 450-500 degrees for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This takes around 5-8 minutes. DO NOT BUMP THE BOARD. Let the board cool for 8-12 hours. | |
| - | * |
| + | * ***''Step 6a: If you used a oven you cook food in, run a cleaning cycle and thoroughly clean it. This does not apply to an oven dedicated to reflow.''*** |
| * Step 7: After letting the board cool, put it back in the printer and try your luck. | |
| - | Putting a heatsink on the CPU (largest chip on the board) and Ethernet controller (network models) does sometimes bide your time better as well, |
| + | Putting a heatsink on the CPU (largest chip on the board) and Ethernet controller (network models) does sometimes bide your time better as well, ***but again it helps delay another failure a little longer at best.*** The glue on the back should be sufficient, but if you want to be sure they will not move use thermal Epoxy. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| The P2015 series is known to have widespread formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's usually related to the formatter board. This problem is very common and becomes worse as the printer ages. ALL P2015 series printers are going to fail if it already hasn’t happened. | |
| The USB fix is worth a shot at this point since the cables are cheap, but just keep in mind it’s likely a bad formatter board. Don’t waste any more time on it if it continues to have problems. | |
| The defect is repairable, but ANY attempts WILL BE TEMPORARY and it WILL KEEP FAILING! Sell off your unopened toner stock and empty anything you have opened while it runs. Replace it once you’ve run out of consumables - give it away to someone who wants to run it until it dies or recycle it with disclosure the formatter has been reflowed and will fail again. While the heatsink patch may help, it doesn’t do a whole lot foer extending it most of the time. However, it may be enough you will be happy with the lifetime increase. '''''Don’t waste money on a repaired formatter board - they die the same way and some data will be lost forever like the page count, formatter number and serial number UNLESS you can somehow procure the LJ service tools HP uses.''''' | |
| - | '''Reflowing the formatter board does salvage the printer so I will mention it''', but this is as far as I'd go if I was going to try to repair one of these and I had a lot of leftover toner when it died. '''''Please use a oven that will never see food again. Being RoHS helps, but PCB chemicals aren’t something you want to eat.''''' '''Each printer is identical to open up, but with different connections (p2015 base, n (Network), dn (Duplex+network), dtn/x (Duplex+network+factory included 3rd paper tray).''' |
| + | '''Reflowing the formatter board does salvage the printer so I will mention it''', but this is as far as I'd go if I was going to try to repair one of these and I had a lot of leftover toner when it died. '''''Please use a oven that will never see food again. Being RoHS helps, but PCB chemicals aren’t something you want to eat.''''' '''Each printer is identical to open up, but with different connections (p2015 base, n (Network), dn (Duplex+network), dtn (Duplex, Tray, Network), x (Duplex+network+factory 3rd paper tray).''' |
| + | |
| + | '''NOTE: dtn/x have the same connectors - x means 3rd paper tray.''' |
| If you do opt to try reflowing the board, here's how to do it: | |
| * Step 1: Remove the formatter board. The board is on the side where the USB and Ethernet port are. To remove this panel, push it out with a flathead screwdriver. | |
| * Step 2: Once you have the panel off, take a picture of the wiring and keep it for reference. It shouldn't be possible to mix up, but if it's your first try you might want this image. The network/duplex and network/duplex/add'l tray is going to have more wiring then a base model. | |
| * Step 3: Remove the formatter board screws and unplug the cables going to the board. You will see ~4-5 screws holding it in. If you are not sure you can remember where each screw went, lay them how they came out of the printer but they should be the same. | |
| * Step 4: Find a way to lift the board in the oven. You can do this with anything, but it needs to be 100% flat for this to work correctly. PC standoffs, an aluminum sheet with holes drilled in it for case screws and potentially nuts to keep the board stable will work for this. | |
| * Step 5: To extend the life of the reflow and improve your odds, put liquid flux under all of the chips on the board. The idea is your reflow will be more consistent this way. Just make sure to use no-clean flux or ultrasonic the formatter board after baking it to clean it. | |
| * Step 6: Preheat the oven at 450-500 degrees for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This takes around 5-8 minutes. DO NOT BUMP THE BOARD. Let the board cool for 8-12 hours. | |
| * '''''Step 6a: If you used a oven you cook food in, run a cleaning cycle and thoroughly clean it. This does not apply to an oven dedicated to reflow.''''' | |
| * Step 7: After letting the board cool, put it back in the printer and try your luck. | |
| Putting a heatsink on the CPU (largest chip on the board) and Ethernet controller (network models) does sometimes bide your time better as well, '''but again it helps delay another failure a little longer at best.''' The glue on the back should be sufficient, but if you want to be sure they will not move use thermal Epoxy. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| The P2015 series is known to have widespread formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's usually related to the formatter board. This problem is very common and becomes worse as the printer ages. ALL P2015 series printers are going to fail if it already hasn’t happened. | |
| The USB fix is worth a shot at this point since the cables are cheap, but just keep in mind it’s likely a bad formatter board. Don’t waste any more time on it if it continues to have problems. | |
| - | The defect is repairable, but ANY attempts WILL BE TEMPORARY and it |
| + | The defect is repairable, but ANY attempts WILL BE TEMPORARY and it WILL KEEP FAILING! Sell off your unopened toner stock and empty anything you have opened while it runs. Replace it once you’ve run out of consumables - give it away to someone who wants to run it until it dies or recycle it with disclosure the formatter has been reflowed and will fail again. While the heatsink patch may help, it doesn’t do a whole lot foer extending it most of the time. However, it may be enough you will be happy with the lifetime increase. '''''Don’t waste money on a repaired formatter board - they die the same way and some data will be lost forever like the page count, formatter number and serial number UNLESS you can somehow procure the LJ service tools HP uses.''''' |
| '''Reflowing the formatter board does salvage the printer so I will mention it''', but this is as far as I'd go if I was going to try to repair one of these and I had a lot of leftover toner when it died. '''''Please use a oven that will never see food again. Being RoHS helps, but PCB chemicals aren’t something you want to eat.''''' '''Each printer is identical to open up, but with different connections (p2015 base, n (Network), dn (Duplex+network), dtn/x (Duplex+network+factory included 3rd paper tray).''' | |
| If you do opt to try reflowing the board, here's how to do it: | |
| * Step 1: Remove the formatter board. The board is on the side where the USB and Ethernet port are. To remove this panel, push it out with a flathead screwdriver. | |
| * Step 2: Once you have the panel off, take a picture of the wiring and keep it for reference. It shouldn't be possible to mix up, but if it's your first try you might want this image. The network/duplex and network/duplex/add'l tray is going to have more wiring then a base model. | |
| * Step 3: Remove the formatter board screws and unplug the cables going to the board. You will see ~4-5 screws holding it in. If you are not sure you can remember where each screw went, lay them how they came out of the printer but they should be the same. | |
| * Step 4: Find a way to lift the board in the oven. You can do this with anything, but it needs to be 100% flat for this to work correctly. PC standoffs, an aluminum sheet with holes drilled in it for case screws and potentially nuts to keep the board stable will work for this. | |
| * Step 5: To extend the life of the reflow and improve your odds, put liquid flux under all of the chips on the board. The idea is your reflow will be more consistent this way. Just make sure to use no-clean flux or ultrasonic the formatter board after baking it to clean it. | |
| * Step 6: Preheat the oven at 450-500 degrees for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This takes around 5-8 minutes. DO NOT BUMP THE BOARD. Let the board cool for 8-12 hours. | |
| * '''''Step 6a: If you used a oven you cook food in, run a cleaning cycle and thoroughly clean it. This does not apply to an oven dedicated to reflow.''''' | |
| * Step 7: After letting the board cool, put it back in the printer and try your luck. | |
| Putting a heatsink on the CPU (largest chip on the board) and Ethernet controller (network models) does sometimes bide your time better as well, '''but again it helps delay another failure a little longer at best.''' The glue on the back should be sufficient, but if you want to be sure they will not move use thermal Epoxy. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| The P2015 series is known to have widespread formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's usually related to the formatter board. This problem is very common and becomes worse as the printer ages. ALL P2015 series printers are going to fail if it already hasn’t happened. | |
| The USB fix is worth a shot at this point since the cables are cheap, but just keep in mind it’s likely a bad formatter board. Don’t waste any more time on it if it continues to have problems. | |
| The defect is repairable, but ANY attempts WILL BE TEMPORARY and it will fail again. Sell off your unopened toner stock and empty anything you have opened while it runs and replace it once you’ve run out of consumables. It may be possible to extend the 2nd lifetime of the printer with heatsinks, but it also will just do nothing but delay a second death at best - but it may be enough to make you happy with how much extra life it added. '''''Don’t waste money on a repaired formatter board. It will also die and data will be lost forever like the page count, formatter number and serial number UNLESS you can somehow procure the LJ service tools HP uses.''''' | |
| - | Reflowing |
| + | '''Reflowing the formatter board does salvage the printer so I will mention it''', but this is as far as I'd go if I was going to try to repair one of these and I had a lot of leftover toner when it died. '''''Please use a oven that will never see food again. Being RoHS helps, but PCB chemicals aren’t something you want to eat.''''' '''Each printer is identical to open up, but with different connections (p2015 base, n (Network), dn (Duplex+network), dtn/x (Duplex+network+factory included 3rd paper tray).''' |
| If you do opt to try reflowing the board, here's how to do it: | |
| * Step 1: Remove the formatter board. The board is on the side where the USB and Ethernet port are. To remove this panel, push it out with a flathead screwdriver. | |
| * Step 2: Once you have the panel off, take a picture of the wiring and keep it for reference. It shouldn't be possible to mix up, but if it's your first try you might want this image. The network/duplex and network/duplex/add'l tray is going to have more wiring then a base model. | |
| * Step 3: Remove the formatter board screws and unplug the cables going to the board. You will see ~4-5 screws holding it in. If you are not sure you can remember where each screw went, lay them how they came out of the printer but they should be the same. | |
| * Step 4: Find a way to lift the board in the oven. You can do this with anything, but it needs to be 100% flat for this to work correctly. PC standoffs, an aluminum sheet with holes drilled in it for case screws and potentially nuts to keep the board stable will work for this. | |
| * Step 5: To extend the life of the reflow and improve your odds, put liquid flux under all of the chips on the board. The idea is your reflow will be more consistent this way. Just make sure to use no-clean flux or ultrasonic the formatter board after baking it to clean it. | |
| * Step 6: Preheat the oven at 450-500 degrees for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This takes around 5-8 minutes. DO NOT BUMP THE BOARD. Let the board cool for 8-12 hours. | |
| * '''''Step 6a: If you used a oven you cook food in, run a cleaning cycle and thoroughly clean it. This does not apply to an oven dedicated to reflow.''''' | |
| * Step 7: After letting the board cool, put it back in the printer and try your luck. | |
| - | |
| + | Putting a heatsink on the CPU (largest chip on the board) and Ethernet controller (network models) does sometimes bide your time better as well, '''but again it helps delay another failure a little longer at best.''' The glue on the back should be sufficient, but if you want to be sure they will not move use thermal Epoxy. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| The P2015 series is known to have widespread formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's usually related to the formatter board. This problem is very common and becomes worse as the printer ages. ALL P2015 series printers are going to fail if it already hasn’t happened. | |
| The USB fix is worth a shot at this point since the cables are cheap, but just keep in mind it’s likely a bad formatter board. Don’t waste any more time on it if it continues to have problems. | |
| The defect is repairable, but ANY attempts WILL BE TEMPORARY and it will fail again. Sell off your unopened toner stock and empty anything you have opened while it runs and replace it once you’ve run out of consumables. It may be possible to extend the 2nd lifetime of the printer with heatsinks, but it also will just do nothing but delay a second death at best - but it may be enough to make you happy with how much extra life it added. '''''Don’t waste money on a repaired formatter board. It will also die and data will be lost forever like the page count, formatter number and serial number UNLESS you can somehow procure the LJ service tools HP uses.''''' | |
| - | Reflowing it does salvage the printer, but this is as far as I'd go if I was going to try to repair the printer - but please use a oven that will never see food again. Being RoHS helps, but PCB chemicals aren’t something you want to eat. Each printer is identical, but with different connections (base |
| + | Reflowing it does salvage the printer, but this is as far as I'd go if I was going to try to repair the printer - but please use a oven that will never see food again. Being RoHS helps, but PCB chemicals aren’t something you want to eat. Each printer is identical, but with different connections (p2015 base, n (Network), dn (Duplex+network), dtn/x (Duplex+network+factory included 3rd paper tray). |
| If you do opt to try reflowing the board, here's how to do it: | |
| * Step 1: Remove the formatter board. The board is on the side where the USB and Ethernet port are. To remove this panel, push it out with a flathead screwdriver. | |
| * Step 2: Once you have the panel off, take a picture of the wiring and keep it for reference. It shouldn't be possible to mix up, but if it's your first try you might want this image. The network/duplex and network/duplex/add'l tray is going to have more wiring then a base model. | |
| * Step 3: Remove the formatter board screws and unplug the cables going to the board. You will see ~4-5 screws holding it in. If you are not sure you can remember where each screw went, lay them how they came out of the printer but they should be the same. | |
| * Step 4: Find a way to lift the board in the oven. You can do this with anything, but it needs to be 100% flat for this to work correctly. PC standoffs, an aluminum sheet with holes drilled in it for case screws and potentially nuts to keep the board stable will work for this. | |
| * Step 5: To extend the life of the reflow and improve your odds, put liquid flux under all of the chips on the board. The idea is your reflow will be more consistent this way. Just make sure to use no-clean flux or ultrasonic the formatter board after baking it to clean it. | |
| * Step 6: Preheat the oven at 450-500 degrees for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This takes around 5-8 minutes. DO NOT BUMP THE BOARD. Let the board cool for 8-12 hours. | |
| * '''''Step 6a: If you used a oven you cook food in, run a cleaning cycle and thoroughly clean it. This does not apply to an oven dedicated to reflow.''''' | |
| * Step 7: After letting the board cool, put it back in the printer and try your luck. | |
| Some advice I can give you that might extend the printer's second run is a heatsink. Get a heatsink large enough for the 2 main chips (Processor and Ethernet controller) and mount them. The glue on the back should be sufficient, but if you want to be sure they will not move use thermal Epoxy. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| The P2015 series is known to have widespread formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's usually related to the formatter board. This problem is very common and becomes worse as the printer ages. ALL P2015 series printers are going to fail if it already hasn’t happened. | |
| The USB fix is worth a shot at this point since the cables are cheap, but just keep in mind it’s likely a bad formatter board. Don’t waste any more time on it if it continues to have problems. | |
| - | The defect is repairable, but ANY attempts WILL BE TEMPORARY and it will fail again. Sell off your unopened toner stock and empty anything you have opened while it runs and replace it once you’ve run out of consumables. It may be possible to extend the 2nd lifetime of the printer with heatsinks, but it also will just do nothing but delay a second death at best - but it may be enough to make you happy with how much extra life it added. '''''Don’t waste money on a repaired formatter board. It will also die and data will |
| + | The defect is repairable, but ANY attempts WILL BE TEMPORARY and it will fail again. Sell off your unopened toner stock and empty anything you have opened while it runs and replace it once you’ve run out of consumables. It may be possible to extend the 2nd lifetime of the printer with heatsinks, but it also will just do nothing but delay a second death at best - but it may be enough to make you happy with how much extra life it added. '''''Don’t waste money on a repaired formatter board. It will also die and data will be lost forever like the page count, formatter number and serial number UNLESS you can somehow procure the LJ service tools HP uses.''''' |
| Reflowing it does salvage the printer, but this is as far as I'd go if I was going to try to repair the printer - but please use a oven that will never see food again. Being RoHS helps, but PCB chemicals aren’t something you want to eat. Each printer is identical, but with different connections (base model, network, network/duplex or network/duplex/add'l tray). | |
| If you do opt to try reflowing the board, here's how to do it: | |
| * Step 1: Remove the formatter board. The board is on the side where the USB and Ethernet port are. To remove this panel, push it out with a flathead screwdriver. | |
| * Step 2: Once you have the panel off, take a picture of the wiring and keep it for reference. It shouldn't be possible to mix up, but if it's your first try you might want this image. The network/duplex and network/duplex/add'l tray is going to have more wiring then a base model. | |
| * Step 3: Remove the formatter board screws and unplug the cables going to the board. You will see ~4-5 screws holding it in. If you are not sure you can remember where each screw went, lay them how they came out of the printer but they should be the same. | |
| * Step 4: Find a way to lift the board in the oven. You can do this with anything, but it needs to be 100% flat for this to work correctly. PC standoffs, an aluminum sheet with holes drilled in it for case screws and potentially nuts to keep the board stable will work for this. | |
| * Step 5: To extend the life of the reflow and improve your odds, put liquid flux under all of the chips on the board. The idea is your reflow will be more consistent this way. Just make sure to use no-clean flux or ultrasonic the formatter board after baking it to clean it. | |
| * Step 6: Preheat the oven at 450-500 degrees for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This takes around 5-8 minutes. DO NOT BUMP THE BOARD. Let the board cool for 8-12 hours. | |
| - | * '''''Step 6a: If you used a oven you cook food in, run a cleaning cycle and |
| + | * '''''Step 6a: If you used a oven you cook food in, run a cleaning cycle and thoroughly clean it. This does not apply to an oven dedicated to reflow.''''' |
| * Step 7: After letting the board cool, put it back in the printer and try your luck. | |
| Some advice I can give you that might extend the printer's second run is a heatsink. Get a heatsink large enough for the 2 main chips (Processor and Ethernet controller) and mount them. The glue on the back should be sufficient, but if you want to be sure they will not move use thermal Epoxy. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| The P2015 series is known to have widespread formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's usually related to the formatter board. This problem is very common and becomes worse as the printer ages. ALL P2015 series printers are going to fail if it already hasn’t happened. | |
| The USB fix is worth a shot at this point since the cables are cheap, but just keep in mind it’s likely a bad formatter board. Don’t waste any more time on it if it continues to have problems. | |
| - | The defect is repairable, but |
| + | The defect is repairable, but ANY attempts WILL BE TEMPORARY and it will fail again. Sell off your unopened toner stock and empty anything you have opened while it runs and replace it once you’ve run out of consumables. It may be possible to extend the 2nd lifetime of the printer with heatsinks, but it also will just do nothing but delay a second death at best - but it may be enough to make you happy with how much extra life it added. '''''Don’t waste money on a repaired formatter board. It will also die and data will need to be lost forever like the page count, formatter number and serial number UNLESS you can somehow procure the LJ service tools HP uses.''''' |
| Reflowing it does salvage the printer, but this is as far as I'd go if I was going to try to repair the printer - but please use a oven that will never see food again. Being RoHS helps, but PCB chemicals aren’t something you want to eat. Each printer is identical, but with different connections (base model, network, network/duplex or network/duplex/add'l tray). | |
| If you do opt to try reflowing the board, here's how to do it: | |
| * Step 1: Remove the formatter board. The board is on the side where the USB and Ethernet port are. To remove this panel, push it out with a flathead screwdriver. | |
| * Step 2: Once you have the panel off, take a picture of the wiring and keep it for reference. It shouldn't be possible to mix up, but if it's your first try you might want this image. The network/duplex and network/duplex/add'l tray is going to have more wiring then a base model. | |
| * Step 3: Remove the formatter board screws and unplug the cables going to the board. You will see ~4-5 screws holding it in. If you are not sure you can remember where each screw went, lay them how they came out of the printer but they should be the same. | |
| * Step 4: Find a way to lift the board in the oven. You can do this with anything, but it needs to be 100% flat for this to work correctly. PC standoffs, an aluminum sheet with holes drilled in it for case screws and potentially nuts to keep the board stable will work for this. | |
| * Step 5: To extend the life of the reflow and improve your odds, put liquid flux under all of the chips on the board. The idea is your reflow will be more consistent this way. Just make sure to use no-clean flux or ultrasonic the formatter board after baking it to clean it. | |
| * Step 6: Preheat the oven at 450-500 degrees for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This takes around 5-8 minutes. DO NOT BUMP THE BOARD. Let the board cool for 8-12 hours. | |
| * '''''Step 6a: If you used a oven you cook food in, run a cleaning cycle and throughly clean it. This does not apply to an oven dedicated to reflow.''''' | |
| * Step 7: After letting the board cool, put it back in the printer and try your luck. | |
| Some advice I can give you that might extend the printer's second run is a heatsink. Get a heatsink large enough for the 2 main chips (Processor and Ethernet controller) and mount them. The glue on the back should be sufficient, but if you want to be sure they will not move use thermal Epoxy. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| The P2015 series is known to have widespread formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's usually related to the formatter board. This problem is very common and becomes worse as the printer ages. ALL P2015 series printers are going to fail if it already hasn’t happened. | |
| The USB fix is worth a shot at this point since the cables are cheap, but just keep in mind it’s likely a bad formatter board. Don’t waste any more time on it if it continues to have problems. | |
| The defect is repairable, but the bad news is the repair is temporary and WILL come back. I have made a suggestion on what I may help the repair lifetime, but if it’s bad it may not work. '''''Don’t waste money on a repaired formatter board. It will also die and data will need to be lost forever like the page count, formatter number and serial number UNLESS you can somehow procure the LJ service tools HP uses.''''' | |
| Reflowing it does salvage the printer, but this is as far as I'd go if I was going to try to repair the printer - but please use a oven that will never see food again. Being RoHS helps, but PCB chemicals aren’t something you want to eat. Each printer is identical, but with different connections (base model, network, network/duplex or network/duplex/add'l tray). | |
| If you do opt to try reflowing the board, here's how to do it: | |
| * Step 1: Remove the formatter board. The board is on the side where the USB and Ethernet port are. To remove this panel, push it out with a flathead screwdriver. | |
| * Step 2: Once you have the panel off, take a picture of the wiring and keep it for reference. It shouldn't be possible to mix up, but if it's your first try you might want this image. The network/duplex and network/duplex/add'l tray is going to have more wiring then a base model. | |
| * Step 3: Remove the formatter board screws and unplug the cables going to the board. You will see ~4-5 screws holding it in. If you are not sure you can remember where each screw went, lay them how they came out of the printer but they should be the same. | |
| * Step 4: Find a way to lift the board in the oven. You can do this with anything, but it needs to be 100% flat for this to work correctly. PC standoffs, an aluminum sheet with holes drilled in it for case screws and potentially nuts to keep the board stable will work for this. | |
| * Step 5: To extend the life of the reflow and improve your odds, put liquid flux under all of the chips on the board. The idea is your reflow will be more consistent this way. Just make sure to use no-clean flux or ultrasonic the formatter board after baking it to clean it. | |
| * Step 6: Preheat the oven at 450-500 degrees for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This takes around 5-8 minutes. DO NOT BUMP THE BOARD. Let the board cool for 8-12 hours. | |
| - | * Step |
| - | * Step |
| + | * '''''Step 6a: If you used a oven you cook food in, run a cleaning cycle and throughly clean it. This does not apply to an oven dedicated to reflow.''''' |
| + | * Step 7: After letting the board cool, put it back in the printer and try your luck. |
| Some advice I can give you that might extend the printer's second run is a heatsink. Get a heatsink large enough for the 2 main chips (Processor and Ethernet controller) and mount them. The glue on the back should be sufficient, but if you want to be sure they will not move use thermal Epoxy. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| The P2015 series is known to have widespread formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's usually related to the formatter board. This problem is very common and becomes worse as the printer ages. ALL P2015 series printers are going to fail if it already hasn’t happened. | |
| The USB fix is worth a shot at this point since the cables are cheap, but just keep in mind it’s likely a bad formatter board. Don’t waste any more time on it if it continues to have problems. | |
| The defect is repairable, but the bad news is the repair is temporary and WILL come back. I have made a suggestion on what I may help the repair lifetime, but if it’s bad it may not work. '''''Don’t waste money on a repaired formatter board. It will also die and data will need to be lost forever like the page count, formatter number and serial number UNLESS you can somehow procure the LJ service tools HP uses.''''' | |
| Reflowing it does salvage the printer, but this is as far as I'd go if I was going to try to repair the printer - but please use a oven that will never see food again. Being RoHS helps, but PCB chemicals aren’t something you want to eat. Each printer is identical, but with different connections (base model, network, network/duplex or network/duplex/add'l tray). | |
| If you do opt to try reflowing the board, here's how to do it: | |
| * Step 1: Remove the formatter board. The board is on the side where the USB and Ethernet port are. To remove this panel, push it out with a flathead screwdriver. | |
| * Step 2: Once you have the panel off, take a picture of the wiring and keep it for reference. It shouldn't be possible to mix up, but if it's your first try you might want this image. The network/duplex and network/duplex/add'l tray is going to have more wiring then a base model. | |
| * Step 3: Remove the formatter board screws and unplug the cables going to the board. You will see ~4-5 screws holding it in. If you are not sure you can remember where each screw went, lay them how they came out of the printer but they should be the same. | |
| - | * Step 4: Find a way to lift the board in the oven. You can do this with anything, but it needs to be 100% flat for this to work correctly. PC standoffs |
| + | * Step 4: Find a way to lift the board in the oven. You can do this with anything, but it needs to be 100% flat for this to work correctly. PC standoffs, an aluminum sheet with holes drilled in it for case screws and potentially nuts to keep the board stable will work for this. |
| * Step 5: To extend the life of the reflow and improve your odds, put liquid flux under all of the chips on the board. The idea is your reflow will be more consistent this way. Just make sure to use no-clean flux or ultrasonic the formatter board after baking it to clean it. | |
| * Step 6: Preheat the oven at 450-500 degrees for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This takes around 5-8 minutes. DO NOT BUMP THE BOARD. Let the board cool for 8-12 hours. | |
| * Step 7: If you used a oven you cook food in, run a cleaning cycle and clean the oven throughly. If the oven is disposable, clean it a little and put it away. | |
| * Step 8: After letting the board cool, put it back in the printer and try your luck. | |
| Some advice I can give you that might extend the printer's second run is a heatsink. Get a heatsink large enough for the 2 main chips (Processor and Ethernet controller) and mount them. The glue on the back should be sufficient, but if you want to be sure they will not move use thermal Epoxy. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| The P2015 series is known to have widespread formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's usually related to the formatter board. This problem is very common and becomes worse as the printer ages. ALL P2015 series printers are going to fail if it already hasn’t happened. | |
| The USB fix is worth a shot at this point since the cables are cheap, but just keep in mind it’s likely a bad formatter board. Don’t waste any more time on it if it continues to have problems. | |
| The defect is repairable, but the bad news is the repair is temporary and WILL come back. I have made a suggestion on what I may help the repair lifetime, but if it’s bad it may not work. '''''Don’t waste money on a repaired formatter board. It will also die and data will need to be lost forever like the page count, formatter number and serial number UNLESS you can somehow procure the LJ service tools HP uses.''''' | |
| Reflowing it does salvage the printer, but this is as far as I'd go if I was going to try to repair the printer - but please use a oven that will never see food again. Being RoHS helps, but PCB chemicals aren’t something you want to eat. Each printer is identical, but with different connections (base model, network, network/duplex or network/duplex/add'l tray). | |
| If you do opt to try reflowing the board, here's how to do it: | |
| * Step 1: Remove the formatter board. The board is on the side where the USB and Ethernet port are. To remove this panel, push it out with a flathead screwdriver. | |
| * Step 2: Once you have the panel off, take a picture of the wiring and keep it for reference. It shouldn't be possible to mix up, but if it's your first try you might want this image. The network/duplex and network/duplex/add'l tray is going to have more wiring then a base model. | |
| * Step 3: Remove the formatter board screws and unplug the cables going to the board. You will see ~4-5 screws holding it in. If you are not sure you can remember where each screw went, lay them how they came out of the printer but they should be the same. | |
| * Step 4: Find a way to lift the board in the oven. You can do this with anything, but it needs to be 100% flat for this to work correctly. PC standoffs go a good job at this, if you can get some. | |
| * Step 5: To extend the life of the reflow and improve your odds, put liquid flux under all of the chips on the board. The idea is your reflow will be more consistent this way. Just make sure to use no-clean flux or ultrasonic the formatter board after baking it to clean it. | |
| - | * Step 6: Preheat the oven at 450-500 degrees for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This takes around 5-8 minutes. DO NOT BUMP THE BOARD. Let the board cool for 8-12 |
| + | * Step 6: Preheat the oven at 450-500 degrees for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This takes around 5-8 minutes. DO NOT BUMP THE BOARD. Let the board cool for 8-12 hours. |
| * Step 7: If you used a oven you cook food in, run a cleaning cycle and clean the oven throughly. If the oven is disposable, clean it a little and put it away. | |
| * Step 8: After letting the board cool, put it back in the printer and try your luck. | |
| Some advice I can give you that might extend the printer's second run is a heatsink. Get a heatsink large enough for the 2 main chips (Processor and Ethernet controller) and mount them. The glue on the back should be sufficient, but if you want to be sure they will not move use thermal Epoxy. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| The P2015 series is known to have widespread formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's usually related to the formatter board. This problem is very common and becomes worse as the printer ages. ALL P2015 series printers are going to fail if it already hasn’t happened. | |
| The USB fix is worth a shot at this point since the cables are cheap, but just keep in mind it’s likely a bad formatter board. Don’t waste any more time on it if it continues to have problems. | |
| - | |
| + | The defect is repairable, but the bad news is the repair is temporary and WILL come back. I have made a suggestion on what I may help the repair lifetime, but if it’s bad it may not work. '''''Don’t waste money on a repaired formatter board. It will also die and data will need to be lost forever like the page count, formatter number and serial number UNLESS you can somehow procure the LJ service tools HP uses.''''' |
| Reflowing it does salvage the printer, but this is as far as I'd go if I was going to try to repair the printer - but please use a oven that will never see food again. Being RoHS helps, but PCB chemicals aren’t something you want to eat. Each printer is identical, but with different connections (base model, network, network/duplex or network/duplex/add'l tray). | |
| If you do opt to try reflowing the board, here's how to do it: | |
| * Step 1: Remove the formatter board. The board is on the side where the USB and Ethernet port are. To remove this panel, push it out with a flathead screwdriver. | |
| * Step 2: Once you have the panel off, take a picture of the wiring and keep it for reference. It shouldn't be possible to mix up, but if it's your first try you might want this image. The network/duplex and network/duplex/add'l tray is going to have more wiring then a base model. | |
| * Step 3: Remove the formatter board screws and unplug the cables going to the board. You will see ~4-5 screws holding it in. If you are not sure you can remember where each screw went, lay them how they came out of the printer but they should be the same. | |
| * Step 4: Find a way to lift the board in the oven. You can do this with anything, but it needs to be 100% flat for this to work correctly. PC standoffs go a good job at this, if you can get some. | |
| * Step 5: To extend the life of the reflow and improve your odds, put liquid flux under all of the chips on the board. The idea is your reflow will be more consistent this way. Just make sure to use no-clean flux or ultrasonic the formatter board after baking it to clean it. | |
| * Step 6: Preheat the oven at 450-500 degrees for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This takes around 5-8 minutes. DO NOT BUMP THE BOARD. Let the board cool for 8-12+ hours. | |
| * Step 7: If you used a oven you cook food in, run a cleaning cycle and clean the oven throughly. If the oven is disposable, clean it a little and put it away. | |
| * Step 8: After letting the board cool, put it back in the printer and try your luck. | |
| Some advice I can give you that might extend the printer's second run is a heatsink. Get a heatsink large enough for the 2 main chips (Processor and Ethernet controller) and mount them. The glue on the back should be sufficient, but if you want to be sure they will not move use thermal Epoxy. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| The P2015 series is known to have widespread formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's usually related to the formatter board. This problem is very common and becomes worse as the printer ages. ALL P2015 series printers are going to fail if it already hasn’t happened. | |
| The USB fix is worth a shot at this point since the cables are cheap, but just keep in mind it’s likely a bad formatter board. Don’t waste any more time on it if it continues to have problems. | |
| - | Thedefect is repairable, but the bad news is the repair is temporary and WILL come back. I have made a suggestion on what I |
| + | Thedefect is repairable, but the bad news is the repair is temporary and WILL come back. I have made a suggestion on what I may help the repair lifetime, but if it’s bad it may not work. '''''Don’t waste money on a repaired formatter board. It will also die and data will need to be lost forever like the page count, formatter number and serial number UNLESS you can somehow procure the LJ service tools HP uses.''''' |
| Reflowing it does salvage the printer, but this is as far as I'd go if I was going to try to repair the printer - but please use a oven that will never see food again. Being RoHS helps, but PCB chemicals aren’t something you want to eat. Each printer is identical, but with different connections (base model, network, network/duplex or network/duplex/add'l tray). | |
| If you do opt to try reflowing the board, here's how to do it: | |
| * Step 1: Remove the formatter board. The board is on the side where the USB and Ethernet port are. To remove this panel, push it out with a flathead screwdriver. | |
| * Step 2: Once you have the panel off, take a picture of the wiring and keep it for reference. It shouldn't be possible to mix up, but if it's your first try you might want this image. The network/duplex and network/duplex/add'l tray is going to have more wiring then a base model. | |
| * Step 3: Remove the formatter board screws and unplug the cables going to the board. You will see ~4-5 screws holding it in. If you are not sure you can remember where each screw went, lay them how they came out of the printer but they should be the same. | |
| * Step 4: Find a way to lift the board in the oven. You can do this with anything, but it needs to be 100% flat for this to work correctly. PC standoffs go a good job at this, if you can get some. | |
| * Step 5: To extend the life of the reflow and improve your odds, put liquid flux under all of the chips on the board. The idea is your reflow will be more consistent this way. Just make sure to use no-clean flux or ultrasonic the formatter board after baking it to clean it. | |
| * Step 6: Preheat the oven at 450-500 degrees for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This takes around 5-8 minutes. DO NOT BUMP THE BOARD. Let the board cool for 8-12+ hours. | |
| * Step 7: If you used a oven you cook food in, run a cleaning cycle and clean the oven throughly. If the oven is disposable, clean it a little and put it away. | |
| * Step 8: After letting the board cool, put it back in the printer and try your luck. | |
| Some advice I can give you that might extend the printer's second run is a heatsink. Get a heatsink large enough for the 2 main chips (Processor and Ethernet controller) and mount them. The glue on the back should be sufficient, but if you want to be sure they will not move use thermal Epoxy. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| - | The P2015 series is known to have widespread formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's usually related to the formatter board. This problem is very common and becomes worse as the printer ages. |
|---|---|
| + | The P2015 series is known to have widespread formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's usually related to the formatter board. This problem is very common and becomes worse as the printer ages. ALL P2015 series printers are going to fail if it already hasn’t happened. |
| - | The USB fix is worth a shot at this point, but |
| + | The USB fix is worth a shot at this point since the cables are cheap, but just keep in mind it’s likely a bad formatter board. Don’t waste any more time on it if it continues to have problems. |
| - | |
| + | Thedefect is repairable, but the bad news is the repair is temporary and WILL come back. I have made a suggestion on what I feel will help the repair last a little longer, but it may not work. '''''Don’t waste money on a repaired formatter board. It will also die and data will need to be lost forever like the page count, formatter number and serial number.''''' |
| - | Reflowing it does salvage the printer, but this is as far as I'd go if I was going to try to repair the printer |
| + | Reflowing it does salvage the printer, but this is as far as I'd go if I was going to try to repair the printer - but please use a oven that will never see food again. Being RoHS helps, but PCB chemicals aren’t something you want to eat. Each printer is identical, but with different connections (base model, network, network/duplex or network/duplex/add'l tray). |
| If you do opt to try reflowing the board, here's how to do it: | |
| * Step 1: Remove the formatter board. The board is on the side where the USB and Ethernet port are. To remove this panel, push it out with a flathead screwdriver. | |
| - | * Step 2: Once you have the panel off, take a picture of the wiring and keep it for reference. It shouldn't be possible to mix up, but if it's your first try you might want this image. The network/duplex and network/duplex/add'l tray is going to have more wiring then a base model. |
| + | * Step 2: Once you have the panel off, take a picture of the wiring and keep it for reference. It shouldn't be possible to mix up, but if it's your first try you might want this image. The network/duplex and network/duplex/add'l tray is going to have more wiring then a base model. |
| * Step 3: Remove the formatter board screws and unplug the cables going to the board. You will see ~4-5 screws holding it in. If you are not sure you can remember where each screw went, lay them how they came out of the printer but they should be the same. | |
| * Step 4: Find a way to lift the board in the oven. You can do this with anything, but it needs to be 100% flat for this to work correctly. PC standoffs go a good job at this, if you can get some. | |
| * Step 5: To extend the life of the reflow and improve your odds, put liquid flux under all of the chips on the board. The idea is your reflow will be more consistent this way. Just make sure to use no-clean flux or ultrasonic the formatter board after baking it to clean it. | |
| * Step 6: Preheat the oven at 450-500 degrees for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This takes around 5-8 minutes. DO NOT BUMP THE BOARD. Let the board cool for 8-12+ hours. | |
| * Step 7: If you used a oven you cook food in, run a cleaning cycle and clean the oven throughly. If the oven is disposable, clean it a little and put it away. | |
| - | * Step 8: After letting the board cool, put it back in the printer and try your luck. |
| - | |
| + | * Step 8: After letting the board cool, put it back in the printer and try your luck. |
| Some advice I can give you that might extend the printer's second run is a heatsink. Get a heatsink large enough for the 2 main chips (Processor and Ethernet controller) and mount them. The glue on the back should be sufficient, but if you want to be sure they will not move use thermal Epoxy. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| The P2015 series is known to have widespread formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's usually related to the formatter board. This problem is very common and becomes worse as the printer ages. The P2015 series is a lemon, and is not reliable. | |
| The USB fix is worth a shot at this point, but be aware that the odds of the fix working are not in your favor. If you continue having problems with the printer, it's going to be caused by a bad formatter board. | |
| The good news is the issue is repairable, but the bad news is the repair is temporary and always seems to come back. I have made a suggestion on what I feel will help the repair last a little longer, but it may not work. If you are thinking of buying a new board do not waste your time or money; even the refurb boards die. | |
| Reflowing it does salvage the printer, but this is as far as I'd go if I was going to try to repair the printer. Just make sure you use a oven you never plan on using for food to repair it. It's new enough to have a RoHS compliant board, but you still do not want to get the chemicals in your food. The only difference in tearing the printer down is going to be the amount of cables, depending on if it is a base model, network, network/duplex or network/duplex/add'l tray model. | |
| If you do opt to try reflowing the board, here's how to do it: | |
| * Step 1: Remove the formatter board. The board is on the side where the USB and Ethernet port are. To remove this panel, push it out with a flathead screwdriver. | |
| * Step 2: Once you have the panel off, take a picture of the wiring and keep it for reference. It shouldn't be possible to mix up, but if it's your first try you might want this image. The network/duplex and network/duplex/add'l tray is going to have more wiring then a base model. | |
| * Step 3: Remove the formatter board screws and unplug the cables going to the board. You will see ~4-5 screws holding it in. If you are not sure you can remember where each screw went, lay them how they came out of the printer but they should be the same. | |
| * Step 4: Find a way to lift the board in the oven. You can do this with anything, but it needs to be 100% flat for this to work correctly. PC standoffs go a good job at this, if you can get some. | |
| * Step 5: To extend the life of the reflow and improve your odds, put liquid flux under all of the chips on the board. The idea is your reflow will be more consistent this way. Just make sure to use no-clean flux or ultrasonic the formatter board after baking it to clean it. | |
| * Step 6: Preheat the oven at 450-500 degrees for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This takes around 5-8 minutes. DO NOT BUMP THE BOARD. Let the board cool for 8-12+ hours. | |
| * Step 7: If you used a oven you cook food in, run a cleaning cycle and clean the oven throughly. If the oven is disposable, clean it a little and put it away. | |
| * Step 8: After letting the board cool, put it back in the printer and try your luck. | |
| - | Some advice I can give you that might extend the printer's second run is a heatsink. Get a heatsink large enough for the 2 main chips and mount them. The glue on the back should be sufficient, but if you want to be sure they will not move use thermal Epoxy. |
| + | Some advice I can give you that might extend the printer's second run is a heatsink. Get a heatsink large enough for the 2 main chips (Processor and Ethernet controller) and mount them. The glue on the back should be sufficient, but if you want to be sure they will not move use thermal Epoxy. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| The P2015 series is known to have widespread formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's usually related to the formatter board. This problem is very common and becomes worse as the printer ages. The P2015 series is a lemon, and is not reliable. | |
| The USB fix is worth a shot at this point, but be aware that the odds of the fix working are not in your favor. If you continue having problems with the printer, it's going to be caused by a bad formatter board. | |
| The good news is the issue is repairable, but the bad news is the repair is temporary and always seems to come back. I have made a suggestion on what I feel will help the repair last a little longer, but it may not work. If you are thinking of buying a new board do not waste your time or money; even the refurb boards die. | |
| Reflowing it does salvage the printer, but this is as far as I'd go if I was going to try to repair the printer. Just make sure you use a oven you never plan on using for food to repair it. It's new enough to have a RoHS compliant board, but you still do not want to get the chemicals in your food. The only difference in tearing the printer down is going to be the amount of cables, depending on if it is a base model, network, network/duplex or network/duplex/add'l tray model. | |
| If you do opt to try reflowing the board, here's how to do it: | |
| - | * Step 1: Remove the formatter board. The board is on the side where the USB and Ethernet |
| + | * Step 1: Remove the formatter board. The board is on the side where the USB and Ethernet port are. To remove this panel, push it out with a flathead screwdriver. |
| * Step 2: Once you have the panel off, take a picture of the wiring and keep it for reference. It shouldn't be possible to mix up, but if it's your first try you might want this image. The network/duplex and network/duplex/add'l tray is going to have more wiring then a base model. | |
| * Step 3: Remove the formatter board screws and unplug the cables going to the board. You will see ~4-5 screws holding it in. If you are not sure you can remember where each screw went, lay them how they came out of the printer but they should be the same. | |
| * Step 4: Find a way to lift the board in the oven. You can do this with anything, but it needs to be 100% flat for this to work correctly. PC standoffs go a good job at this, if you can get some. | |
| * Step 5: To extend the life of the reflow and improve your odds, put liquid flux under all of the chips on the board. The idea is your reflow will be more consistent this way. Just make sure to use no-clean flux or ultrasonic the formatter board after baking it to clean it. | |
| * Step 6: Preheat the oven at 450-500 degrees for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This takes around 5-8 minutes. DO NOT BUMP THE BOARD. Let the board cool for 8-12+ hours. | |
| * Step 7: If you used a oven you cook food in, run a cleaning cycle and clean the oven throughly. If the oven is disposable, clean it a little and put it away. | |
| * Step 8: After letting the board cool, put it back in the printer and try your luck. | |
| + | |
| Some advice I can give you that might extend the printer's second run is a heatsink. Get a heatsink large enough for the 2 main chips and mount them. The glue on the back should be sufficient, but if you want to be sure they will not move use thermal Epoxy. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| - | The P2015 is known to have formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's |
|---|---|
| + | The P2015 series is known to have widespread formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's usually related to the formatter board. This problem is very common and becomes worse as the printer ages. The P2015 series is a lemon, and is not reliable. |
| - | |
| + | The USB fix is worth a shot at this point, but be aware that the odds of the fix working are not in your favor. If you continue having problems with the printer, it's going to be caused by a bad formatter board. |
| - | |
| + | The good news is the issue is repairable, but the bad news is the repair is temporary and always seems to come back. I have made a suggestion on what I feel will help the repair last a little longer, but it may not work. If you are thinking of buying a new board do not waste your time or money; even the refurb boards die. |
| - | |
| + | Reflowing it does salvage the printer, but this is as far as I'd go if I was going to try to repair the printer. Just make sure you use a oven you never plan on using for food to repair it. It's new enough to have a RoHS compliant board, but you still do not want to get the chemicals in your food. The only difference in tearing the printer down is going to be the amount of cables, depending on if it is a base model, network, network/duplex or network/duplex/add'l tray model. |
| - | |
| + | If you do opt to try reflowing the board, here's how to do it: |
| - | If you reflow the board, here's how to do it: |
| - | |
| - | * 1: Remove the formatter board. The board is on the side where the USB and Ethernet (if on your model) is. |
| - | * 2: For good measure,take pictures of the wiring. '''Note: The P2015 and P2015 d series models have different wiring schemes due to the duplexer add-on.''' |
| - | * 3: Remove the formatter board screws and cabling. You will see about 4-5 screws holding it in. If you are not sure you can remember where each screw went, lay them how they came out of the printer. |
| - | * 4: Find a way to lift the board in the oven. You can do this with anything, but it needs to be 100% flat for this to work correctly. |
| - | * 5: '''Put liquid flux under ALL of the BGA chips. This will ensure the reflow works correctly. Make sure to use no-clean flux or ultrasonic the formatter board after baking it.''' |
| - | * 6: Preheat the oven at 450 for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This will probably take around 5-8 minutes. '''Note: Bumping the formatter board will ruin it.''' |
| - | * 7: Clean the oven good, or leave the mess be depending on if my advice on a throwaway oven was heeded. |
| - | * 8: Put the board in the printer after cooling for 8-12 hours. See if this fixed the problem. |
| - | * 9: '''Optional: Get a small heatsink and thermal Epoxy if you want to keep the chips on the board cooler. This will prolong the life of the reflow.''' |
| - | |
| - | '''Note: This procedure will likely only save the printer TEMPORARILY. It will probably fail the same way in short order again.''' |
| + | * Step 1: Remove the formatter board. The board is on the side where the USB and Ethernet (if on your model) is. To remove this panel, push it out with a flathead screwdriver. |
| + | * Step 2: Once you have the panel off, take a picture of the wiring and keep it for reference. It shouldn't be possible to mix up, but if it's your first try you might want this image. The network/duplex and network/duplex/add'l tray is going to have more wiring then a base model. |
| + | * Step 3: Remove the formatter board screws and unplug the cables going to the board. You will see ~4-5 screws holding it in. If you are not sure you can remember where each screw went, lay them how they came out of the printer but they should be the same. |
| + | * Step 4: Find a way to lift the board in the oven. You can do this with anything, but it needs to be 100% flat for this to work correctly. PC standoffs go a good job at this, if you can get some. |
| + | * Step 5: To extend the life of the reflow and improve your odds, put liquid flux under all of the chips on the board. The idea is your reflow will be more consistent this way. Just make sure to use no-clean flux or ultrasonic the formatter board after baking it to clean it. |
| + | * Step 6: Preheat the oven at 450-500 degrees for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This takes around 5-8 minutes. DO NOT BUMP THE BOARD. Let the board cool for 8-12+ hours. |
| + | * Step 7: If you used a oven you cook food in, run a cleaning cycle and clean the oven throughly. If the oven is disposable, clean it a little and put it away. |
| + | * Step 8: After letting the board cool, put it back in the printer and try your luck. |
| + | Some advice I can give you that might extend the printer's second run is a heatsink. Get a heatsink large enough for the 2 main chips and mount them. The glue on the back should be sufficient, but if you want to be sure they will not move use thermal Epoxy. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| The P2015 is known to have formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's a faulty formatter board. It isn't uncommon to see a P2015 with a faulty formatter board, especially as the printer ages. I think it's probably going to be a bad formatter board. | |
| You can certainly try and do the driver and USB fix, but more often then not it's caused by a failed formatter board. | |
| I have good news and bad news. The good news is you can attempt to reflow the formatter board and revive the printer, but the problem is this is a total gamble and usually comes back. The bad news is all of these formatter boards fail at some point, so it isn't worth replacing. | |
| You should use something like a throwaway toaster oven you plan to never use to cook food. The boards are new enough to be RoHS but you still do not want to breathe the chemicals in the board or eat them. | |
| The reflow fix works for all of the models. However, the cables do vary per model. The base model has the least amount of cables. The higher the model and features, the more cables you will find in the printer. | |
| If you reflow the board, here's how to do it: | |
| * 1: Remove the formatter board. The board is on the side where the USB and Ethernet (if on your model) is. | |
| * 2: For good measure,take pictures of the wiring. '''Note: The P2015 and P2015 d series models have different wiring schemes due to the duplexer add-on.''' | |
| * 3: Remove the formatter board screws and cabling. You will see about 4-5 screws holding it in. If you are not sure you can remember where each screw went, lay them how they came out of the printer. | |
| * 4: Find a way to lift the board in the oven. You can do this with anything, but it needs to be 100% flat for this to work correctly. | |
| * 5: '''Put liquid flux under ALL of the BGA chips. This will ensure the reflow works correctly. Make sure to use no-clean flux or ultrasonic the formatter board after baking it.''' | |
| * 6: Preheat the oven at 450 for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This will probably take around 5-8 minutes. '''Note: Bumping the formatter board will ruin it.''' | |
| * 7: Clean the oven good, or leave the mess be depending on if my advice on a throwaway oven was heeded. | |
| * 8: Put the board in the printer after cooling for 8-12 hours. See if this fixed the problem. | |
| + | * 9: '''Optional: Get a small heatsink and thermal Epoxy if you want to keep the chips on the board cooler. This will prolong the life of the reflow.''' |
| '''Note: This procedure will likely only save the printer TEMPORARILY. It will probably fail the same way in short order again.''' |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| - | The P2015 is known to have formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's a faulty formatter board. It isn't uncommon to see a P2015 with a faulty formatter board, especially as the printer ages. I think it's probably going to be a bad formatter board. |
|---|---|
| - | You can certainly try and do the driver and USB fix, but more often then not it's caused by a failed formatter board. |
| + | The P2015 is known to have formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's a faulty formatter board. It isn't uncommon to see a P2015 with a faulty formatter board, especially as the printer ages. I think it's probably going to be a bad formatter board. |
| + | |
| + | You can certainly try and do the driver and USB fix, but more often then not it's caused by a failed formatter board. |
| + | |
| I have good news and bad news. The good news is you can attempt to reflow the formatter board and revive the printer, but the problem is this is a total gamble and usually comes back. The bad news is all of these formatter boards fail at some point, so it isn't worth replacing. | |
| + | |
| You should use something like a throwaway toaster oven you plan to never use to cook food. The boards are new enough to be RoHS but you still do not want to breathe the chemicals in the board or eat them. | |
| + | |
| The reflow fix works for all of the models. However, the cables do vary per model. The base model has the least amount of cables. The higher the model and features, the more cables you will find in the printer. | |
| + | |
| If you reflow the board, here's how to do it: | |
| + | |
| * 1: Remove the formatter board. The board is on the side where the USB and Ethernet (if on your model) is. | |
| * 2: For good measure,take pictures of the wiring. '''Note: The P2015 and P2015 d series models have different wiring schemes due to the duplexer add-on.''' | |
| * 3: Remove the formatter board screws and cabling. You will see about 4-5 screws holding it in. If you are not sure you can remember where each screw went, lay them how they came out of the printer. | |
| * 4: Find a way to lift the board in the oven. You can do this with anything, but it needs to be 100% flat for this to work correctly. | |
| * 5: '''Put liquid flux under ALL of the BGA chips. This will ensure the reflow works correctly. Make sure to use no-clean flux or ultrasonic the formatter board after baking it.''' | |
| * 6: Preheat the oven at 450 for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This will probably take around 5-8 minutes. '''Note: Bumping the formatter board will ruin it.''' | |
| * 7: Clean the oven good, or leave the mess be depending on if my advice on a throwaway oven was heeded. | |
| * 8: Put the board in the printer after cooling for 8-12 hours. See if this fixed the problem. | |
| - | Note: This procedure will likely only save the printer TEMPORARILY. It will probably fail the same way in short order again. |
| + | |
| + | '''Note: This procedure will likely only save the printer TEMPORARILY. It will probably fail the same way in short order again.''' |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| - | These printers are known for formatter board failures, so I suspect your formatter board is the problem. This thing is so bad, I have had to answer two questions on this problem. Even if you follow the driver and USB cable solutions, it probably won't work. Try repairing the formatter board first. Just remember the more you reflow it the sooner it will die for good. Reflows are a temporary fix at best. |
|---|---|
| - | |
| - | Try to use a toaster oven for this just to reflow if possible. Make sure it's a sealed design to keep the heat in, though. |
| - | |
| - | The models go as follows |
| - | P2015=Standard P2015. No duplexer, networking or additional trays shipped with the printer. |
| - | P2015d=P2015 with a duplexer. No networking or additional included trays. |
| - | P2015dn=P2015d with a Ethernet port. No additional trays included. |
| - | P2015x=P2015dtn. Includes a P2015 with a duplexer and Ethernet and has one extra tray bundled in. |
| - | |
| - | * Step 1: Remove the formatter board. It lives on the side where the I/O is. |
| - | * Step 2: Take pictures of the wiring. '''The P2015 and P2015 d series models have different wiring schemes due to the d model having a duplexer. This includes the d, dn and x models.''' |
| - | * Remove the formatter board screws and cabling. You will see 4 or 5 screws holding it in. |
| - | * Find a way to lift the board in the oven. The best way to do this is coffee mugs or PC standoffs. |
| - | * '''Put liquid flux under ALL of the BGA chips. THIS IS CRITICAL TO A SOLID REFLOW!''' |
| - | * Preheat the oven at 450 for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This will probably take around 5-8 minutes. '''DO NOT BUMP IT AT THIS POINT! You will ruin it if you do!''' |
| - | * '''Clean the oven good after doing this.''' |
| - | * Put the board in the printer after cooling for 8-12 hours. See if this fixed the problem. It won't last forever, so be ready to repeat this. |
| + | The P2015 is known to have formatter board issues. In most cases where the printer does not respond, it's a faulty formatter board. It isn't uncommon to see a P2015 with a faulty formatter board, especially as the printer ages. I think it's probably going to be a bad formatter board. |
| + | You can certainly try and do the driver and USB fix, but more often then not it's caused by a failed formatter board. |
| + | I have good news and bad news. The good news is you can attempt to reflow the formatter board and revive the printer, but the problem is this is a total gamble and usually comes back. The bad news is all of these formatter boards fail at some point, so it isn't worth replacing. |
| + | You should use something like a throwaway toaster oven you plan to never use to cook food. The boards are new enough to be RoHS but you still do not want to breathe the chemicals in the board or eat them. |
| + | The reflow fix works for all of the models. However, the cables do vary per model. The base model has the least amount of cables. The higher the model and features, the more cables you will find in the printer. |
| + | If you reflow the board, here's how to do it: |
| + | * 1: Remove the formatter board. The board is on the side where the USB and Ethernet (if on your model) is. |
| + | * 2: For good measure,take pictures of the wiring. '''Note: The P2015 and P2015 d series models have different wiring schemes due to the duplexer add-on.''' |
| + | * 3: Remove the formatter board screws and cabling. You will see about 4-5 screws holding it in. If you are not sure you can remember where each screw went, lay them how they came out of the printer. |
| + | * 4: Find a way to lift the board in the oven. You can do this with anything, but it needs to be 100% flat for this to work correctly. |
| + | * 5: '''Put liquid flux under ALL of the BGA chips. This will ensure the reflow works correctly. Make sure to use no-clean flux or ultrasonic the formatter board after baking it.''' |
| + | * 6: Preheat the oven at 450 for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This will probably take around 5-8 minutes. '''Note: Bumping the formatter board will ruin it.''' |
| + | * 7: Clean the oven good, or leave the mess be depending on if my advice on a throwaway oven was heeded. |
| + | * 8: Put the board in the printer after cooling for 8-12 hours. See if this fixed the problem. |
| + | Note: This procedure will likely only save the printer TEMPORARILY. It will probably fail the same way in short order again. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| These printers are known for formatter board failures, so I suspect your formatter board is the problem. This thing is so bad, I have had to answer two questions on this problem. Even if you follow the driver and USB cable solutions, it probably won't work. Try repairing the formatter board first. Just remember the more you reflow it the sooner it will die for good. Reflows are a temporary fix at best. | |
| + | |
| Try to use a toaster oven for this just to reflow if possible. Make sure it's a sealed design to keep the heat in, though. | |
| + | |
| + | The models go as follows |
| + | P2015=Standard P2015. No duplexer, networking or additional trays shipped with the printer. |
| + | P2015d=P2015 with a duplexer. No networking or additional included trays. |
| + | P2015dn=P2015d with a Ethernet port. No additional trays included. |
| + | P2015x=P2015dtn. Includes a P2015 with a duplexer and Ethernet and has one extra tray bundled in. |
| * Step 1: Remove the formatter board. It lives on the side where the I/O is. | |
| * Step 2: Take pictures of the wiring. '''The P2015 and P2015 d series models have different wiring schemes due to the d model having a duplexer. This includes the d, dn and x models.''' | |
| * Remove the formatter board screws and cabling. You will see 4 or 5 screws holding it in. | |
| * Find a way to lift the board in the oven. The best way to do this is coffee mugs or PC standoffs. | |
| * '''Put liquid flux under ALL of the BGA chips. THIS IS CRITICAL TO A SOLID REFLOW!''' | |
| * Preheat the oven at 450 for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This will probably take around 5-8 minutes. '''DO NOT BUMP IT AT THIS POINT! You will ruin it if you do!''' | |
| * '''Clean the oven good after doing this.''' | |
| * Put the board in the printer after cooling for 8-12 hours. See if this fixed the problem. It won't last forever, so be ready to repeat this. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| - | These printers are known for formatter board failures, so I suspect your formatter board is the problem-so much so this is the 2nd question I have seen on the topic relating to bad formatter boards |
|---|---|
| + | These printers are known for formatter board failures, so I suspect your formatter board is the problem. This thing is so bad, I have had to answer two questions on this problem. Even if you follow the driver and USB cable solutions, it probably won't work. Try repairing the formatter board first. Just remember the more you reflow it the sooner it will die for good. Reflows are a temporary fix at best. |
| + | Try to use a toaster oven for this just to reflow if possible. Make sure it's a sealed design to keep the heat in, though. |
| - | Yes, follow the driver and USB cable suggestions, and if that doesn't work, here's how to bake it if as a short term fix, or want to use your P2015 longer to go through extra toners you may have(this may not work, so it's a last resort fix if nothing else works); '''the more you do this, the shorter the time before you have to bake it again''' |
| - | |
| - | Take the formatter board out of the printer by removing the side panel with the I/O |
| - | |
| - | next, take a picture of how the cables went, then disconnect them |
| - | |
| - | Remove the 4 screws from the formatter board that hold it in |
| - | |
| - | If you custom build PC's as I do, use case standoffs as a way to lift the board, otherwise use some glass coffee mugs on the corners to lift it up; this is to prevent shorts and flow heat evenly |
| - | |
| - | Preheat the oven at 400 degrees for 5 minutes, then bake the board for 5-8 minutes, or till the solder is molten |
| - | |
| - | '''put the formatter board out of the way where you have room to let it cool without getting hit''' |
| - | |
| - | Reinstall in the printer after it has cooled for a few hours and see if it works |
| - | |
| - | '''clean the oven up VERY GOOD when done''' |
| + | * Step 1: Remove the formatter board. It lives on the side where the I/O is. |
| + | * Step 2: Take pictures of the wiring. '''The P2015 and P2015 d series models have different wiring schemes due to the d model having a duplexer. This includes the d, dn and x models.''' |
| + | * Remove the formatter board screws and cabling. You will see 4 or 5 screws holding it in. |
| + | * Find a way to lift the board in the oven. The best way to do this is coffee mugs or PC standoffs. |
| + | * '''Put liquid flux under ALL of the BGA chips. THIS IS CRITICAL TO A SOLID REFLOW!''' |
| + | * Preheat the oven at 450 for 5 minutes. Put the board in until the solder is molten, then remove it. This will probably take around 5-8 minutes. '''DO NOT BUMP IT AT THIS POINT! You will ruin it if you do!''' |
| + | * '''Clean the oven good after doing this.''' |
| + | * Put the board in the printer after cooling for 8-12 hours. See if this fixed the problem. It won't last forever, so be ready to repeat this. |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| - | These printers are |
|---|---|
| + | These printers are known for formatter board failures, so I suspect your formatter board is the problem-so much so this is the 2nd question I have seen on the topic relating to bad formatter boards |
| - | Yes, follow the driver and USB cable suggestions, and if that doesn't work, here's how to bake it if |
| + | Yes, follow the driver and USB cable suggestions, and if that doesn't work, here's how to bake it if as a short term fix, or want to use your P2015 longer to go through extra toners you may have(this may not work, so it's a last resort fix if nothing else works); '''the more you do this, the shorter the time before you have to bake it again''' |
| Take the formatter board out of the printer by removing the side panel with the I/O | |
| next, take a picture of how the cables went, then disconnect them | |
| Remove the 4 screws from the formatter board that hold it in | |
| If you custom build PC's as I do, use case standoffs as a way to lift the board, otherwise use some glass coffee mugs on the corners to lift it up; this is to prevent shorts and flow heat evenly | |
| Preheat the oven at 400 degrees for 5 minutes, then bake the board for 5-8 minutes, or till the solder is molten | |
| '''put the formatter board out of the way where you have room to let it cool without getting hit''' | |
| Reinstall in the printer after it has cooled for a few hours and see if it works | |
| '''clean the oven up VERY GOOD when done''' |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| These printers are NOTORIOUS for formatter board failures, so I suspect your formatter board is the problem | |
| - | Yes, follow the driver and USB cable suggestions, and if that doesn't work, here's how to bake it if you can't afford a new printer as a short term fix, or want to use your P2015 longer to go through extra toners you may have(this may not work, so it's a last resort fix if nothing else works) |
| + | Yes, follow the driver and USB cable suggestions, and if that doesn't work, here's how to bake it if you can't afford a new printer as a short term fix, or want to use your P2015 longer to go through extra toners you may have(this may not work, so it's a last resort fix if nothing else works) ; '''the more you do this, the shorter the time before you have to bake it again''' |
| Take the formatter board out of the printer by removing the side panel with the I/O | |
| next, take a picture of how the cables went, then disconnect them | |
| Remove the 4 screws from the formatter board that hold it in | |
| If you custom build PC's as I do, use case standoffs as a way to lift the board, otherwise use some glass coffee mugs on the corners to lift it up; this is to prevent shorts and flow heat evenly | |
| Preheat the oven at 400 degrees for 5 minutes, then bake the board for 5-8 minutes, or till the solder is molten | |
| '''put the formatter board out of the way where you have room to let it cool without getting hit''' | |
| Reinstall in the printer after it has cooled for a few hours and see if it works | |
| '''clean the oven up VERY GOOD when done''' |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| These printers are NOTORIOUS for formatter board failures, so I suspect your formatter board is the problem | |
| - | Yes, follow the driver and USB cable suggestions, and if that doesn't work, here's how to bake it if you can't afford a new printer as a short term fix, or want to use your P2015 longer(this may not work, so it's a last resort fix if nothing else works) |
| + | Yes, follow the driver and USB cable suggestions, and if that doesn't work, here's how to bake it if you can't afford a new printer as a short term fix, or want to use your P2015 longer to go through extra toners you may have(this may not work, so it's a last resort fix if nothing else works) |
| Take the formatter board out of the printer by removing the side panel with the I/O | |
| next, take a picture of how the cables went, then disconnect them | |
| Remove the 4 screws from the formatter board that hold it in | |
| If you custom build PC's as I do, use case standoffs as a way to lift the board, otherwise use some glass coffee mugs on the corners to lift it up; this is to prevent shorts and flow heat evenly | |
| Preheat the oven at 400 degrees for 5 minutes, then bake the board for 5-8 minutes, or till the solder is molten | |
| '''put the formatter board out of the way where you have room to let it cool without getting hit''' | |
| Reinstall in the printer after it has cooled for a few hours and see if it works | |
| '''clean the oven up VERY GOOD when done''' |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| These printers are NOTORIOUS for formatter board failures, so I suspect your formatter board is the problem | |
| Yes, follow the driver and USB cable suggestions, and if that doesn't work, here's how to bake it if you can't afford a new printer as a short term fix, or want to use your P2015 longer(this may not work, so it's a last resort fix if nothing else works) | |
| Take the formatter board out of the printer by removing the side panel with the I/O | |
| next, take a picture of how the cables went, then disconnect them | |
| Remove the 4 screws from the formatter board that hold it in | |
| If you custom build PC's as I do, use case standoffs as a way to lift the board, otherwise use some glass coffee mugs on the corners to lift it up; this is to prevent shorts and flow heat evenly | |
| Preheat the oven at 400 degrees for 5 minutes, then bake the board for 5-8 minutes, or till the solder is molten | |
| '''put the formatter board out of the way where you have room to let it cool without getting hit''' | |
| Reinstall in the printer after it has cooled for a few hours and see if it works | |
| + | |
| + | '''clean the oven up VERY GOOD when done''' |
Durum:
open
Düzenleyen: Nick
Metin:
| These printers are NOTORIOUS for formatter board failures, so I suspect your formatter board is the problem | |
| - | Yes, follow the driver and USB cable suggestions, and if that doesn't work, here's how to bake it if you can't afford a new printer as a short term fix, or want to use your P2015 longer |
| + | Yes, follow the driver and USB cable suggestions, and if that doesn't work, here's how to bake it if you can't afford a new printer as a short term fix, or want to use your P2015 longer(this may not work, so it's a last resort fix if nothing else works) |
| Take the formatter board out of the printer by removing the side panel with the I/O | |
| next, take a picture of how the cables went, then disconnect them | |
| Remove the 4 screws from the formatter board that hold it in | |
| If you custom build PC's as I do, use case standoffs as a way to lift the board, otherwise use some glass coffee mugs on the corners to lift it up; this is to prevent shorts and flow heat evenly | |
| Preheat the oven at 400 degrees for 5 minutes, then bake the board for 5-8 minutes, or till the solder is molten | |
| '''put the formatter board out of the way where you have room to let it cool without getting hit''' | |
| Reinstall in the printer after it has cooled for a few hours and see if it works |
Durum:
open
Orijinal gönderinin sahibi: Nick
Metin:
These printers are NOTORIOUS for formatter board failures, so I suspect your formatter board is the problem Yes, follow the driver and USB cable suggestions, and if that doesn't work, here's how to bake it if you can't afford a new printer as a short term fix, or want to use your P2015 longer Take the formatter board out of the printer by removing the side panel with the I/O next, take a picture of how the cables went, then disconnect them Remove the 4 screws from the formatter board that hold it in If you custom build PC's as I do, use case standoffs as a way to lift the board, otherwise use some glass coffee mugs on the corners to lift it up; this is to prevent shorts and flow heat evenly Preheat the oven at 400 degrees for 5 minutes, then bake the board for 5-8 minutes, or till the solder is molten '''put the formatter board out of the way where you have room to let it cool without getting hit''' Reinstall in the printer after it has cooled for a few hours and see if it works
Durum:
open