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I had this exact problem with a 10 year old Whirlpool dryer. The main troubleshooting information given here about thermal switches, belts, etc, is useless. The issue is with either the front panel interface or the main control board. All the talk of cold solder joints, bad tact switches, LEDs, etc. floating around the net was not applicable in my case. I went over the interface board, replaced all the switches, touched up EVERY solder connection, and it didn't help at all. I suspect the real issue is with the main control board. Both parts are around $300 each. And, if you get it wrong, you might spend $600 to fix your dryer. If you price out new dryers, that's likely NOT a good investment given something else expensive might soon fail on an older dryer. I found a nice GE steam dryer for $579 and it's matching front loader steam washer for $579 with a free 4 year warranty, free delivery, and free haul away of my old poorly designed Whirlpool appliances with overpriced parts. The cost of the new dryer was less than the cost of replacing the front panel interface and control board in my 10 year old Whirlpool. Goodbye Whirlpool.

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