If the unit is under warranty but shipping isn't covered, it may cost about as much to send it back and it will probably be cheaper to scrap it and buy another one, or even a older conference room DLP projector with the input you need and ideally DVI/HDMI so you can use it for protected content. Check if the warranty covers warranty shipping; if not, check cost and run if it’s too close in cost compared to another one - they’re cheap for a reason!
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If the unit is under warranty but shipping isn't covered, it may cost about as much to send it back and it will probably be cheaper to scrap it and buy another one, or even a older conference room DLP projector with the input you need and ideally HDMI (you can adapt DVI, but it's an extra expense and some devices do not like it without putting up a fight) so you can use it for protected content. Check if the warranty covers warranty shipping; if not, check cost and run if it’s too close in cost compared to another one - they’re cheap for a reason!
If you want to replace the LED, you will need a COB (Chip On Board) LED that's the same size to replace it, along with thermal paste. In order to replace it, you will need to disconnect the connector used to power it and a DC compatible replacement that’s electrically compatible. At the minimum, you will need a DC powered COB LED that's 5000k (Daylight) for a proper white picture. I suspect it's a 12-24V COB. In terms of lumens if you can find a 2,000-2,500 lumen one, I would go with that instead of another 1,500 lumen part; 3,000 lumens may be too much for the heatsink to handle.
After you remove the [guide|106399|COB LED assembly], you will need to remove the reflector that spreads the light to the LCD in the projector; do not get this dirty or the dust will show on the image. This isn't covered in the guide, so you will need to use common sense to see how to remove it. Once you do that, you can replace the LED module but you need to mind the polarity or you will fry it.
If the unit is under warranty but shipping isn't covered, it'll likely cost nearly as much to ship as a similarly specced mini projector. Check if the warranty covers warranty shipping. If it doesn't, then I wouldn't bother using the warranty.
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If the unit is under warranty but shipping isn't covered, it may cost about as much to send it back and it will probably be cheaper to scrap it and buy another one, or even a older conference room DLP projector with the input you need and ideally DVI/HDMI so you can use it for protected content. Check if the warranty covers warranty shipping; if not, check cost and run if it’s too close in cost compared to another one - they’re cheap for a reason!
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If you want to replace the LED, you will need a COB (Chip On Board) LED that's the same size to replace it, along with thermal paste. In order to replace it, you will need to disconnect the connector used to power it. You will need a DC powered COB that's 5000k (Daylight) to start;others will look wrong. I suspect it's a 12-24V COB. In terms of lumens if you can find a 2,000-2,500 lumen one, I would go with that instead of another 1,500 lumen part; 3,000 lumens may be too much for the heatsink to handle.
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If you want to replace the LED, you will need a COB (Chip On Board) LED that's the same size to replace it, along with thermal paste. In order to replace it, you will need to disconnect the connector used to power it and a DC compatible replacement that’s electrically compatible. At the minimum, you will need a DC powered COB LED that's 5000k (Daylight) for a proper white picture. I suspect it's a 12-24V COB. In terms of lumens if you can find a 2,000-2,500 lumen one, I would go with that instead of another 1,500 lumen part; 3,000 lumens may be too much for the heatsink to handle.
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After you remove the [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/DBPOWER+T20+Lamp+Replacement/106399|lamp assembly], you will need to remove the reflector that spreads the light to the LCD in the projector; do not get this dirty or the dust will show on the image. This isn't covered in the guide, so you will need to use common sense to see how to remove it. Once you do that, you can replace the LED module but you need to mind the polarity or you will fry it.
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After you remove the [guide|106399|COB LED assembly], you will need to remove the reflector that spreads the light to the LCD in the projector; do not get this dirty or the dust will show on the image. This isn't covered in the guide, so you will need to use common sense to see how to remove it. Once you do that, you can replace the LED module but you need to mind the polarity or you will fry it.
If the unit is under warranty but shipping isn't covered, it'll likely cost nearly as much to ship as a similarly specced mini projector. Check if the warranty covers warranty shipping. If it doesn't, then I wouldn't bother using the warranty.
If you want to replace the LED, you will need a COB (Chip On Board) LED that's the same size to replace it, along with thermal paste. In order to replace it, you will need to disconnect the connector used to power it. You will need a DC powered COB that's 5000k (Daylight) to start; others will look wrong. I suspect it's a 12-24V COB. In terms of lumens if you can find a 2,000-2,500 lumen one, I would go with that instead of another 1,500 lumen part; 3,000 lumens may be too much for the heatsink to handle.
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After you remove the lamp assembly, you will need to remove the reflector that spreads the light to the LCD in the projector; do not get this dirty or the dust will show on the image. This isn't covered in the guide, so you will need to use common sense to see how to remove it. Once you do that, you can replace the LED module but you need to mind the polarity or you will fry it.
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After you remove the [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/DBPOWER+T20+Lamp+Replacement/106399|lamp assembly], you will need to remove the reflector that spreads the light to the LCD in the projector; do not get this dirty or the dust will show on the image. This isn't covered in the guide, so you will need to use common sense to see how to remove it. Once you do that, you can replace the LED module but you need to mind the polarity or you will fry it.
If the unit is under warranty but shipping isn't, it'll likely cost nearly as much to ship as a similarly specced mini projector. Check if the warranty covers warranty shipping. If it doesn't, then I wouldn't bother using the warranty.
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If the unit is under warranty but shipping isn't covered, it'll likely cost nearly as much to ship as a similarly specced mini projector. Check if the warranty covers warranty shipping. If it doesn't, then I wouldn't bother using the warranty.
If you want to replace the LED, you will need a COB (Chip On Board) LED that's the same size to replace it, along with thermal paste. In order to replace it, you will need to disconnect the connector used to power it. You will need a DC powered COB that's 5000k (Daylight) to start; others will look wrong. I suspect it's a 12-24V COB. In terms of lumens if you can find a 2,000-2,500 lumen one, I would go with that instead of another 1,500 lumen part; 3,000 lumens may be too much for the heatsink to handle.
After you remove the lamp assembly, you will need to remove the reflector that spreads the light to the LCD in the projector; do not get this dirty or the dust will show on the image. This isn't covered in the guide, so you will need to use common sense to see how to remove it. Once you do that, you can replace the LED module but you need to mind the polarity or you will fry it.
If the unit is under warranty but shipping isn't, it'll likely cost nearly as much to ship as a similarly specced mini projector. Check if the warranty covers warranty shipping. If it doesn't, then I wouldn't bother using the warranty.
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If you want to replace the LED, you will need a COB (Chip On Board) LED that's the same size to replace it, along with thermal paste. In order to replace it, you will need to disconnect the connector used to power it. You will need a DC powered COB that's 5000k (Daylight) to start; others will look wrong. In terms of lumens if you can find a 2,000-2,500 lumen one, I would go with that instead of another 1,500 lumen part; 3,000 lumens may be too much for the heatsink to handle.
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If you want to replace the LED, you will need a COB (Chip On Board) LED that's the same size to replace it, along with thermal paste. In order to replace it, you will need to disconnect the connector used to power it. You will need a DC powered COB that's 5000k (Daylight) to start; others will look wrong. I suspect it's a 12-24V COB. In terms of lumens if you can find a 2,000-2,500 lumen one, I would go with that instead of another 1,500 lumen part; 3,000 lumens may be too much for the heatsink to handle.
After you remove the lamp assembly, you will need to remove the reflector that spreads the light to the LCD in the projector; do not get this dirty or the dust will show on the image. This isn't covered in the guide, so you will need to use common sense to see how to remove it. Once you do that, you can replace the LED module but you need to mind the polarity or you will fry it.
If the unit is under warranty but shipping isn't, it'll likely cost nearly as much to ship as a similarly specced mini projector. Check if the warranty covers warranty shipping. If it doesn't, then I wouldn't bother using the warranty.
If you want to replace the LED, you will need a COB (Chip On Board) LED that's the same size to replace it, along with thermal paste. In order to replace it, you will need to disconnect the connector used to power it. You will need a DC powered COB that's 5000k (Daylight) to start; others will look wrong. In terms of lumens if you can find a 2,000-2,500 lumen one, I would go with that instead of another 1,500 lumen part; 3,000 lumens may be too much for the heatsink to handle.
After you remove the lamp assembly, you will need to remove the reflector that spreads the light to the LCD in the projector; do not get this dirty or the dust will show on the image. This isn't covered in the guide, so you will need to use common sense to see how to remove it. Once you do that, you can replace the LED module but you need to mind the polarity or you will fry it.