It's usually one of 3 common reasons for these older HP lasers. It's either a bad toner, fuser, or laser issue where it is degraded or dirty.
The first thing I always try when it's borderline is to replace the toner, even if it's reman; a lot of the time, it's some imaging component issue in the toner cart from age, but not always. Either way, these are cheap enough for old models (hint: I pay $25 for 2 80X compatibles for my M401).
-
If the issue remains with a new toner, do a "halfway test": do a test page and stop it mid-run to see if a bad fuser is introducing the issue. If it's perfect before you get to the fusing unit, the fuser is the culprit; it isn't getting hot enough to melt the toner due to the lamp wearing down. But be mindful of what you pay for the fuser and where you buy it. ***''You want a used low PC fuser (probably pulled from a p2015 with a low PC but failing formatter) as the procedure to change it sucks on these; do it right the first time. See if you can get a rebuilt one from a shop like Precision Roller, [https://www.printertechs.com/shop/hp-laserjet-p2015-p2014-m2727-series-maintenance-kit|Printer Techs|new_window=true] or''*** [link|https://www.metrofuser.com/product-page/2015kit-p2015-m2727-maintenance-kit|Metrofuser (use your name for the company name)|new_window=true]***''. However, it will probably be more than a new printer of similar quality (SMB mono). It's probably not cost-effective.''***
+
If the issue remains with a new toner, do a "halfway test": do a test page and stop it mid-run to see if a bad fuser is introducing the issue. If it's perfect before you get to the fusing unit, the fuser is the culprit; it isn't getting hot enough to melt the toner due to the lamp wearing down. But be mindful of what you pay for the fuser and where you buy it. ***''You want a used low PC fuser (probably pulled from a p2015 with a low PC but failing formatter) as the procedure to change it sucks on these; do it right the first time. See if you can get a rebuilt one from a shop like Precision Roller,''*** [link|https://www.printertechs.com/shop/hp-laserjet-p2015-p2014-m2727-series-maintenance-kit|Printer Techs|new_window=true] ***''or''*** [link|https://www.metrofuser.com/product-page/2015kit-p2015-m2727-maintenance-kit|Metrofuser (use your name for the company name)|new_window=true]***''. However, it will probably be more than a new printer of similar quality (SMB mono). BUT BEWARE: It's probably not cost-effective.''***
[quote|format=featured]
***CAUTION: The fuser on the P2015 is a nightmare to replace -- later models like the P2055 and M401 simplified it (at the expense of the printer's footprint, which is still good), but it's not a 5-minute job. This printer requires all 3 panels (top and sides) to come off, then you need to take a few parts of the frame off.*** [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHYSApFm5wg|No guide on this here yet, but it's deep inside this series :-(|new_window=true]
***This model is also prone to formatter board failures as it ages due to bad lead-free solder quality, but many of them died young; the surviving machines may be fine, but it's such a well-known issue that anyone who can work on a deep printer issue like this throws these to the side as if they're like surprise kids which come with a new relationship unless they're unicorns which somehow work and are low PC. Most of the time they have 100k+ pages and need parts like rollers or were dumped due to the early warnings of an impending formatter board failure.***
[/quote]
If the issue is not with the fuser, take the laser apart and see if there is any degradation of the mirror assembly coatings or toner penetration from several years of use; if it builds up enough, it will kill your print quality. You can take the laser out similarly to the fuser but with much less disassembly, but all three panels need to come off.
[quote|format=featured]
***CAUTION: IF YOU TRY AND CLEAN THE LASER, DO NOT BUMP THE SPINNING MOTOR OR TOUCH THE LASER REFLECTOR; only clean the mirrors and acrylic reflectors. I would also strongly caution you to buy a pack of new virgin microfibers -- please. You want this perfect, meaning you'll also want to blow it out until it is borderline spotless; small dust is fine, but the mirrors CANNOT BE SMUDGED. This also has the very real potential to theoretically make the printer worse with no way to undo the damage!***
***ONLY TRY THIS AS A LAST RESORT AND CONFIRMING YOU CAN QUICKLY PURCHASE A NEW PRINTER (see below for what I generally recommed today).***
***This laser came off of a color laser, but the same principles apply.***
***Red= no touch***
***Green= virgin microfiber safe***
[/quote]
[image|3316475]
If the issue is still present with these checks, it is likely with something serious like the power supply. However, replacing the entire printer is probably more cost-effective, much like replacing the laser (and fuser if it's toast).
[quote|format=featured]
***If it comes down to this being beyond repair and you've checked the "easy" things, do yourself a favor and buy a new Canon laser printer or an older HP from 2012 like the M401 series (being mindful of the PC on the M401, which is 10+ years old, and potentially having to replace the paper pickup rollers and separators if it has ~20k pages when you get it).***
It's usually one of 3 common reasons for these older HP lasers. It's either a bad toner, fuser, or laser issue where it is degraded or dirty.
The first thing I always try when it's borderline is to replace the toner, even if it's reman; a lot of the time, it's some imaging component issue in the toner cart from age, but not always. Either way, these are cheap enough for old models (hint: I pay $25 for 2 80X compatibles for my M401).
-
If the issue remains with a new toner, do a "halfway test": do a test page and stop it mid-run to see if a bad fuser is introducing the issue. If it's perfect before you get to the fusing unit, the fuser is the culprit; it isn't getting hot enough to melt the toner due to the lamp wearing down. But be mindful of what you pay for the fuser and where you buy it. ***''You want a used low PC fuser (probably pulled from a p2015 with a low PC but failing formatter) as the procedure to change it sucks on these; do it right the first time. See if you can get a rebuilt one from a shop like Precision Roller or [https://www.metrofuser.com/product-page/2015kit-p2015-m2727-maintenance-kit|Metrofuser (use your name for the company name)|new_window=true]. However, it will probably be more than a new printer of similar quality (SMB mono). Probably not cost-effective.''***
+
If the issue remains with a new toner, do a "halfway test": do a test page and stop it mid-run to see if a bad fuser is introducing the issue. If it's perfect before you get to the fusing unit, the fuser is the culprit; it isn't getting hot enough to melt the toner due to the lamp wearing down. But be mindful of what you pay for the fuser and where you buy it. ***''You want a used low PC fuser (probably pulled from a p2015 with a low PC but failing formatter) as the procedure to change it sucks on these; do it right the first time. See if you can get a rebuilt one from a shop like Precision Roller, [https://www.printertechs.com/shop/hp-laserjet-p2015-p2014-m2727-series-maintenance-kit|Printer Techs|new_window=true] or''*** [link|https://www.metrofuser.com/product-page/2015kit-p2015-m2727-maintenance-kit|Metrofuser (use your name for the company name)|new_window=true]***''. However, it will probably be more than a new printer of similar quality (SMB mono). It's probably not cost-effective.''***
[quote|format=featured]
***CAUTION: The fuser on the P2015 is a nightmare to replace -- later models like the P2055 and M401 simplified it (at the expense of the printer's footprint, which is still good), but it's not a 5-minute job. This printer requires all 3 panels (top and sides) to come off, then you need to take a few parts of the frame off.*** [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHYSApFm5wg|No guide on this here yet, but it's deep inside this series :-(|new_window=true]
***This model is also prone to formatter board failures as it ages due to bad lead-free solder quality, but many of them died young; the surviving machines may be fine, but it's such a well-known issue that anyone who can work on a deep printer issue like this throws these to the side as if they're like surprise kids which come with a new relationship unless they're unicorns which somehow work and are low PC. Most of the time they have 100k+ pages and need parts like rollers or were dumped due to the early warnings of an impending formatter board failure.***
[/quote]
If the issue is not with the fuser, take the laser apart and see if there is any degradation of the mirror assembly coatings or toner penetration from several years of use; if it builds up enough, it will kill your print quality. You can take the laser out similarly to the fuser but with much less disassembly, but all three panels need to come off.
[quote|format=featured]
***CAUTION: IF YOU TRY AND CLEAN THE LASER, DO NOT BUMP THE SPINNING MOTOR OR TOUCH THE LASER REFLECTOR; only clean the mirrors and acrylic reflectors. I would also strongly caution you to buy a pack of new virgin microfibers -- please. You want this perfect, meaning you'll also want to blow it out until it is borderline spotless; small dust is fine, but the mirrors CANNOT BE SMUDGED. This also has the very real potential to theoretically make the printer worse with no way to undo the damage!***
***ONLY TRY THIS AS A LAST RESORT AND CONFIRMING YOU CAN QUICKLY PURCHASE A NEW PRINTER (see below for what I generally recommed today).***
***This laser came off of a color laser, but the same principles apply.***
***Red= no touch***
***Green= virgin microfiber safe***
[/quote]
[image|3316475]
-
If the issue is still present with these checks, it is likely with something serious like the power supply. However, replacing the entire printer, much like replacing the laser (and fuser if it's toast), is probably more cost-effective.
+
If the issue is still present with these checks, it is likely with something serious like the power supply. However, replacing the entire printer is probably more cost-effective, much like replacing the laser (and fuser if it's toast).
[quote|format=featured]
***If it comes down to this being beyond repair and you've checked the "easy" things, do yourself a favor and buy a new Canon laser printer or an older HP from 2012 like the M401 series (being mindful of the PC on the M401, which is 10+ years old, and potentially having to replace the paper pickup rollers and separators if it has ~20k pages when you get it).***
It's usually one of 3 common reasons on these older HP lasers. Either a bad toner, bad fuser or laser issue where it is degraded or dirty.
+
It's usually one of 3 common reasons for these older HP lasers. It's either a bad toner, fuser, or laser issue where it is degraded or dirty.
-
First thing I always try when it's borderline is I'll replace the toner, even if it's reman; a lot of the time, it's some imaging component issue in the toner cart from age, but not always. Either way, these are cheap enough for old models (hint: I pay $25 for 2 80X compatibles for my M401).
+
The first thing I always try when it's borderline is to replace the toner, even if it's reman; a lot of the time, it's some imaging component issue in the toner cart from age, but not always. Either way, these are cheap enough for old models (hint: I pay $25 for 2 80X compatibles for my M401).
-
If the issue remains with a new toner, do a "halfway test": do a test page and stop it mid-run to see if a bad fuser is introducing the issue. If it's perfect before you get to the fusing unit, the fuser is the culprit; it isn't getting hot enough to melt the toner due to the lamp wearing down. But be mindful of what you pay for the fuser and where you buy it. ''You want a used low PC fuser (dead formatter or it's on the way out, or someone who knows these parted it out because nobody who knows better tries to rehab the p2015) or a good rebuild. Don't put a junk fuser in these -- it will suck to replace a 2nd time!''
+
If the issue remains with a new toner, do a "halfway test": do a test page and stop it mid-run to see if a bad fuser is introducing the issue. If it's perfect before you get to the fusing unit, the fuser is the culprit; it isn't getting hot enough to melt the toner due to the lamp wearing down. But be mindful of what you pay for the fuser and where you buy it. ***''You want a used low PC fuser (probably pulled from a p2015 with a low PC but failing formatter) as the procedure to change it sucks on these; do it right the first time. See if you can get a rebuilt one from a shop like Precision Roller or [https://www.metrofuser.com/product-page/2015kit-p2015-m2727-maintenance-kit|Metrofuser (use your name for the company name)|new_window=true]. However, it will probably be more than a new printer of similar quality (SMB mono). Probably not cost-effective.''***
[quote|format=featured]
***CAUTION: The fuser on the P2015 is a nightmare to replace -- later models like the P2055 and M401 simplified it (at the expense of the printer's footprint, which is still good), but it's not a 5-minute job. This printer requires all 3 panels (top and sides) to come off, then you need to take a few parts of the frame off.*** [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHYSApFm5wg|No guide on this here yet, but it's deep inside this series :-(|new_window=true]
-
***This model is also prone to formatter board failures as it ages due to bad lead-free solder quality, but many of them died young; the surviving machines may be fine, but it's such a well-known issue that anyone who can work on a deep printer issue like this throws these to the side as if they're like surprise kids which come with a new relationship unless they're low PC uncorns. Most of the time they have 100k+ pages and need parts like rollers or were dumped due to the early warnings of an impending formatter board failure.***
+
***This model is also prone to formatter board failures as it ages due to bad lead-free solder quality, but many of them died young; the surviving machines may be fine, but it's such a well-known issue that anyone who can work on a deep printer issue like this throws these to the side as if they're like surprise kids which come with a new relationship unless they're unicorns which somehow work and are low PC. Most of the time they have 100k+ pages and need parts like rollers or were dumped due to the early warnings of an impending formatter board failure.***
[/quote]
-
If the issue is not with the fuser, take the laser apart and see if there is any degradation of the mirror assembly coatings or toner penetration from several years of use; if it builds up enough, it will kill your print quality. You can take the laser out similarly to the fuser; it's just in the top area and a sealed box you need to dismantle. Beyond the plastic panels, not much is needed to get to it.
+
If the issue is not with the fuser, take the laser apart and see if there is any degradation of the mirror assembly coatings or toner penetration from several years of use; if it builds up enough, it will kill your print quality. You can take the laser out similarly to the fuser but with much less disassembly, but all three panels need to come off.
[quote|format=featured]
***CAUTION: IF YOU TRY AND CLEAN THE LASER, DO NOT BUMP THE SPINNING MOTOR OR TOUCH THE LASER REFLECTOR; only clean the mirrors and acrylic reflectors. I would also strongly caution you to buy a pack of new virgin microfibers -- please. You want this perfect, meaning you'll also want to blow it out until it is borderline spotless; small dust is fine, but the mirrors CANNOT BE SMUDGED. This also has the very real potential to theoretically make the printer worse with no way to undo the damage!***
***ONLY TRY THIS AS A LAST RESORT AND CONFIRMING YOU CAN QUICKLY PURCHASE A NEW PRINTER (see below for what I generally recommed today).***
***This laser came off of a color laser, but the same principles apply.***
***Red= no touch***
***Green= virgin microfiber safe***
[/quote]
[image|3316475]
-
If the issue is still present with these checks, it is likely with something serious like the power supply. However, much like the laser, it's more to fix than the printer is worth, and it's arguably a much more awful repair to do even compared to the fuser.
+
If the issue is still present with these checks, it is likely with something serious like the power supply. However, replacing the entire printer, much like replacing the laser (and fuser if it's toast), is probably more cost-effective.
[quote|format=featured]
***If it comes down to this being beyond repair and you've checked the "easy" things, do yourself a favor and buy a new Canon laser printer or an older HP from 2012 like the M401 series (being mindful of the PC on the M401, which is 10+ years old, and potentially having to replace the paper pickup rollers and separators if it has ~20k pages when you get it).***
It's usually one of 3 common reasons on these older HP lasers. Either a bad toner, bad fuser or laser issue where it is degraded or dirty.
First thing I always try when it's borderline is I'll replace the toner, even if it's reman; a lot of the time, it's some imaging component issue in the toner cart from age, but not always. Either way, these are cheap enough for old models (hint: I pay $25 for 2 80X compatibles for my M401).
If the issue remains with a new toner, do a "halfway test": do a test page and stop it mid-run to see if a bad fuser is introducing the issue. If it's perfect before you get to the fusing unit, the fuser is the culprit; it isn't getting hot enough to melt the toner due to the lamp wearing down. But be mindful of what you pay for the fuser and where you buy it. ''You want a used low PC fuser (dead formatter or it's on the way out, or someone who knows these parted it out because nobody who knows better tries to rehab the p2015) or a good rebuild. Don't put a junk fuser in these -- it will suck to replace a 2nd time!''
[quote|format=featured]
***CAUTION: The fuser on the P2015 is a nightmare to replace -- later models like the P2055 and M401 simplified it (at the expense of the printer's footprint, which is still good), but it's not a 5-minute job. This printer requires all 3 panels (top and sides) to come off, then you need to take a few parts of the frame off.*** [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHYSApFm5wg|No guide on this here yet, but it's deep inside this series :-(|new_window=true]
-
***This model is also prone to formatter board failures as it ages due to bad lead-free solder quality, but many of them died young; the surviving machines may be fine, but it's such a well-known issue that anyone who can work on a deep printer issue like this throws these to the side as if they're like surprise kids which come with a new relationship unless they're low PC uncorns. Most of the time, they have over 100k pages, need rollers or something or are slowy dying.***
+
***This model is also prone to formatter board failures as it ages due to bad lead-free solder quality, but many of them died young; the surviving machines may be fine, but it's such a well-known issue that anyone who can work on a deep printer issue like this throws these to the side as if they're like surprise kids which come with a new relationship unless they're low PC uncorns. Most of the time they have 100k+ pages and need parts like rollers or were dumped due to the early warnings of an impending formatter board failure.***
[/quote]
If the issue is not with the fuser, take the laser apart and see if there is any degradation of the mirror assembly coatings or toner penetration from several years of use; if it builds up enough, it will kill your print quality. You can take the laser out similarly to the fuser; it's just in the top area and a sealed box you need to dismantle. Beyond the plastic panels, not much is needed to get to it.
[quote|format=featured]
***CAUTION: IF YOU TRY AND CLEAN THE LASER, DO NOT BUMP THE SPINNING MOTOR OR TOUCH THE LASER REFLECTOR; only clean the mirrors and acrylic reflectors. I would also strongly caution you to buy a pack of new virgin microfibers -- please. You want this perfect, meaning you'll also want to blow it out until it is borderline spotless; small dust is fine, but the mirrors CANNOT BE SMUDGED. This also has the very real potential to theoretically make the printer worse with no way to undo the damage!***
***ONLY TRY THIS AS A LAST RESORT AND CONFIRMING YOU CAN QUICKLY PURCHASE A NEW PRINTER (see below for what I generally recommed today).***
***This laser came off of a color laser, but the same principles apply.***
***Red= no touch***
***Green= virgin microfiber safe***
[/quote]
[image|3316475]
If the issue is still present with these checks, it is likely with something serious like the power supply. However, much like the laser, it's more to fix than the printer is worth, and it's arguably a much more awful repair to do even compared to the fuser.
[quote|format=featured]
***If it comes down to this being beyond repair and you've checked the "easy" things, do yourself a favor and buy a new Canon laser printer or an older HP from 2012 like the M401 series (being mindful of the PC on the M401, which is 10+ years old, and potentially having to replace the paper pickup rollers and separators if it has ~20k pages when you get it).***
It's usually one of 3 common reasons on these older HP lasers. Either a bad toner, bad fuser or laser issue where it is degraded or dirty.
First thing I always try when it's borderline is I'll replace the toner, even if it's reman; a lot of the time, it's some imaging component issue in the toner cart from age, but not always. Either way, these are cheap enough for old models (hint: I pay $25 for 2 80X compatibles for my M401).
If the issue remains with a new toner, do a "halfway test": do a test page and stop it mid-run to see if a bad fuser is introducing the issue. If it's perfect before you get to the fusing unit, the fuser is the culprit; it isn't getting hot enough to melt the toner due to the lamp wearing down. But be mindful of what you pay for the fuser and where you buy it. ''You want a used low PC fuser (dead formatter or it's on the way out, or someone who knows these parted it out because nobody who knows better tries to rehab the p2015) or a good rebuild. Don't put a junk fuser in these -- it will suck to replace a 2nd time!''
[quote|format=featured]
***CAUTION: The fuser on the P2015 is a nightmare to replace -- later models like the P2055 and M401 simplified it (at the expense of the printer's footprint, which is still good), but it's not a 5-minute job. This printer requires all 3 panels (top and sides) to come off, then you need to take a few parts of the frame off.*** [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHYSApFm5wg|No guide on this here yet, but it's deep inside this series :-(|new_window=true]
***This model is also prone to formatter board failures as it ages due to bad lead-free solder quality, but many of them died young; the surviving machines may be fine, but it's such a well-known issue that anyone who can work on a deep printer issue like this throws these to the side as if they're like surprise kids which come with a new relationship unless they're low PC uncorns. Most of the time, they have over 100k pages, need rollers or something or are slowy dying.***
[/quote]
If the issue is not with the fuser, take the laser apart and see if there is any degradation of the mirror assembly coatings or toner penetration from several years of use; if it builds up enough, it will kill your print quality. You can take the laser out similarly to the fuser; it's just in the top area and a sealed box you need to dismantle. Beyond the plastic panels, not much is needed to get to it.
[quote|format=featured]
-
***CAUTION: IF YOU TRY AND CLEAN THE LASER, DO NOT BUMP THE SPINNING MOTOR OR TOUCH THE LASER REFLECTOR; only clean the mirrors and acrylic reflectors. I would also strongly caution you to buy a pack of new virgin microfibers -- please. You want this perfect, meaning you'll also want to blow it out until it is borderline spotless; small dust is fine, but the mirrors CANNOT BE SMUDGED. This also has the very real potential to theoreticaly make the printer worse with no way to undo the damage!***
+
***CAUTION: IF YOU TRY AND CLEAN THE LASER, DO NOT BUMP THE SPINNING MOTOR OR TOUCH THE LASER REFLECTOR; only clean the mirrors and acrylic reflectors. I would also strongly caution you to buy a pack of new virgin microfibers -- please. You want this perfect, meaning you'll also want to blow it out until it is borderline spotless; small dust is fine, but the mirrors CANNOT BE SMUDGED. This also has the very real potential to theoretically make the printer worse with no way to undo the damage!***
***ONLY TRY THIS AS A LAST RESORT AND CONFIRMING YOU CAN QUICKLY PURCHASE A NEW PRINTER (see below for what I generally recommed today).***
***This laser came off of a color laser, but the same principles apply.***
***Red= no touch***
***Green= virgin microfiber safe***
[/quote]
[image|3316475]
If the issue is still present with these checks, it is likely with something serious like the power supply. However, much like the laser, it's more to fix than the printer is worth, and it's arguably a much more awful repair to do even compared to the fuser.
[quote|format=featured]
***If it comes down to this being beyond repair and you've checked the "easy" things, do yourself a favor and buy a new Canon laser printer or an older HP from 2012 like the M401 series (being mindful of the PC on the M401, which is 10+ years old, and potentially having to replace the paper pickup rollers and separators if it has ~20k pages when you get it).***
It's usually one of 3 common reasons on these older HP lasers. Either a bad toner, bad fuser or laser issue where it is degraded or dirty.
First thing I always try when it's borderline is I'll replace the toner, even if it's reman; a lot of the time, it's some imaging component issue in the toner cart from age, but not always. Either way, these are cheap enough for old models (hint: I pay $25 for 2 80X compatibles for my M401).
If the issue remains with a new toner, do a "halfway test": do a test page and stop it mid-run to see if a bad fuser is introducing the issue. If it's perfect before you get to the fusing unit, the fuser is the culprit; it isn't getting hot enough to melt the toner due to the lamp wearing down. But be mindful of what you pay for the fuser and where you buy it. ''You want a used low PC fuser (dead formatter or it's on the way out, or someone who knows these parted it out because nobody who knows better tries to rehab the p2015) or a good rebuild. Don't put a junk fuser in these -- it will suck to replace a 2nd time!''
[quote|format=featured]
***CAUTION: The fuser on the P2015 is a nightmare to replace -- later models like the P2055 and M401 simplified it (at the expense of the printer's footprint, which is still good), but it's not a 5-minute job. This printer requires all 3 panels (top and sides) to come off, then you need to take a few parts of the frame off.*** [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHYSApFm5wg|No guide on this here yet, but it's deep inside this series :-(|new_window=true]
***This model is also prone to formatter board failures as it ages due to bad lead-free solder quality, but many of them died young; the surviving machines may be fine, but it's such a well-known issue that anyone who can work on a deep printer issue like this throws these to the side as if they're like surprise kids which come with a new relationship unless they're low PC uncorns. Most of the time, they have over 100k pages, need rollers or something or are slowy dying.***
[/quote]
If the issue is not with the fuser, take the laser apart and see if there is any degradation of the mirror assembly coatings or toner penetration from several years of use; if it builds up enough, it will kill your print quality. You can take the laser out similarly to the fuser; it's just in the top area and a sealed box you need to dismantle. Beyond the plastic panels, not much is needed to get to it.
[quote|format=featured]
-
***CAUTION: IF YOU TRY AND CLEAN THE LASER, DO NOT BUMP THE SPINNING MOTOR OR TOUCH THE LASER REFLECTOR; only clean the mirrors. I would also strongly caution you to buy a pack of new virgin microfibers -- please. You want this perfect, meaning you'll also want to blow it out until it is borderline spotless; small dust is fine, but the mirrors CANNOT BE SMUDGED. This has the real potential to end the printer's lifetime due to parts cost, so only do this if you have mentally written it off.***
+
***CAUTION: IF YOU TRY AND CLEAN THE LASER, DO NOT BUMP THE SPINNING MOTOR OR TOUCH THE LASER REFLECTOR; only clean the mirrors and acrylic reflectors. I would also strongly caution you to buy a pack of new virgin microfibers -- please. You want this perfect, meaning you'll also want to blow it out until it is borderline spotless; small dust is fine, but the mirrors CANNOT BE SMUDGED. This also has the very real potential to theoreticaly make the printer worse with no way to undo the damage!***
+
+
***ONLY TRY THIS AS A LAST RESORT AND CONFIRMING YOU CAN QUICKLY PURCHASE A NEW PRINTER (see below for what I generally recommed today).***
***This laser came off of a color laser, but the same principles apply.***
***Red= no touch***
***Green= virgin microfiber safe***
[/quote]
[image|3316475]
-
If the issue is still present with these checks, it is likely with something serious like the power supply. However, much like the laser, it's more to fix than the printer is worth, and it's arguably a much more awful repair to do even compared to the fuser. Do yourself a favor and buy a new Canon laser printer or an older HP from 2012 like the M401 series (being mindful of the PC on the M401, which is 10+ years old, and potentially having to replace the paper pickup rollers and separators if it has ~20k pages when you get it).
+
If the issue is still present with these checks, it is likely with something serious like the power supply. However, much like the laser, it's more to fix than the printer is worth, and it's arguably a much more awful repair to do even compared to the fuser.
+
+
[quote|format=featured]
+
***If it comes down to this being beyond repair and you've checked the "easy" things, do yourself a favor and buy a new Canon laser printer or an older HP from 2012 like the M401 series (being mindful of the PC on the M401, which is 10+ years old, and potentially having to replace the paper pickup rollers and separators if it has ~20k pages when you get it).***
It's usually one of 3 common reasons on these older HP lasers. Either a bad toner, bad fuser or laser issue where it is degraded or dirty.
First thing I always try when it's borderline is I'll replace the toner, even if it's reman; a lot of the time, it's some imaging component issue in the toner cart from age, but not always. Either way, these are cheap enough for old models (hint: I pay $25 for 2 80X compatibles for my M401).
If the issue remains with a new toner, do a "halfway test": do a test page and stop it mid-run to see if a bad fuser is introducing the issue. If it's perfect before you get to the fusing unit, the fuser is the culprit; it isn't getting hot enough to melt the toner due to the lamp wearing down. But be mindful of what you pay for the fuser and where you buy it. ''You want a used low PC fuser (dead formatter or it's on the way out, or someone who knows these parted it out because nobody who knows better tries to rehab the p2015) or a good rebuild. Don't put a junk fuser in these -- it will suck to replace a 2nd time!''
[quote|format=featured]
***CAUTION: The fuser on the P2015 is a nightmare to replace -- later models like the P2055 and M401 simplified it (at the expense of the printer's footprint, which is still good), but it's not a 5-minute job. This printer requires all 3 panels (top and sides) to come off, then you need to take a few parts of the frame off.*** [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHYSApFm5wg|No guide on this here yet, but it's deep inside this series :-(|new_window=true]
***This model is also prone to formatter board failures as it ages due to bad lead-free solder quality, but many of them died young; the surviving machines may be fine, but it's such a well-known issue that anyone who can work on a deep printer issue like this throws these to the side as if they're like surprise kids which come with a new relationship unless they're low PC uncorns. Most of the time, they have over 100k pages, need rollers or something or are slowy dying.***
[/quote]
-
If the issue is not with the fuser, take the laser apart and see if there is any degradation of the mirror assembly coatings or toner penetration from several years of use; if it builds up enough, it will kill your print quality. You can take the laser out similarly to the fuser; it's just in the top area and a sealed box you need to dismantle. Not much is needed to get to it beyond the plastic panels.
+
If the issue is not with the fuser, take the laser apart and see if there is any degradation of the mirror assembly coatings or toner penetration from several years of use; if it builds up enough, it will kill your print quality. You can take the laser out similarly to the fuser; it's just in the top area and a sealed box you need to dismantle. Beyond the plastic panels, not much is needed to get to it.
[quote|format=featured]
***CAUTION: IF YOU TRY AND CLEAN THE LASER, DO NOT BUMP THE SPINNING MOTOR OR TOUCH THE LASER REFLECTOR; only clean the mirrors. I would also strongly caution you to buy a pack of new virgin microfibers -- please. You want this perfect, meaning you'll also want to blow it out until it is borderline spotless; small dust is fine, but the mirrors CANNOT BE SMUDGED. This has the real potential to end the printer's lifetime due to parts cost, so only do this if you have mentally written it off.***
***This laser came off of a color laser, but the same principles apply.***
***Red= no touch***
***Green= virgin microfiber safe***
[/quote]
[image|3316475]
-
If the issue is still present with these checks, it is likely with something serious like the power supply. However, much like the laser, it's more to fix than the printer is worth, and it's arguably a much more awful repair than the fuser. Do yourself a favor and buy a new Canon laser printer or an older HP from 2012 like the M401 series (being mindful of the PC on the M401, which is 10+ years old, and potentially having to replace the paper pickup rollers and seprarators if it has ~20k pages when you get it).
+
If the issue is still present with these checks, it is likely with something serious like the power supply. However, much like the laser, it's more to fix than the printer is worth, and it's arguably a much more awful repair to do even compared to the fuser. Do yourself a favor and buy a new Canon laser printer or an older HP from 2012 like the M401 series (being mindful of the PC on the M401, which is 10+ years old, and potentially having to replace the paper pickup rollers and separators if it has ~20k pages when you get it).
It's usually one of 3 common reasons on these older HP lasers. Either a bad toner, bad fuser or laser issue where it is degraded or dirty.
First thing I always try when it's borderline is I'll replace the toner, even if it's reman; a lot of the time, it's some imaging component issue in the toner cart from age, but not always. Either way, these are cheap enough for old models (hint: I pay $25 for 2 80X compatibles for my M401).
If the issue remains with a new toner, do a "halfway test": do a test page and stop it mid-run to see if a bad fuser is introducing the issue. If it's perfect before you get to the fusing unit, the fuser is the culprit; it isn't getting hot enough to melt the toner due to the lamp wearing down. But be mindful of what you pay for the fuser and where you buy it. ''You want a used low PC fuser (dead formatter or it's on the way out, or someone who knows these parted it out because nobody who knows better tries to rehab the p2015) or a good rebuild. Don't put a junk fuser in these -- it will suck to replace a 2nd time!''
[quote|format=featured]
***CAUTION: The fuser on the P2015 is a nightmare to replace -- later models like the P2055 and M401 simplified it (at the expense of the printer's footprint, which is still good), but it's not a 5-minute job. This printer requires all 3 panels (top and sides) to come off, then you need to take a few parts of the frame off.*** [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHYSApFm5wg|No guide on this here yet, but it's deep inside this series :-(|new_window=true]
***This model is also prone to formatter board failures as it ages due to bad lead-free solder quality, but many of them died young; the surviving machines may be fine, but it's such a well-known issue that anyone who can work on a deep printer issue like this throws these to the side as if they're like surprise kids which come with a new relationship unless they're low PC uncorns. Most of the time, they have over 100k pages, need rollers or something or are slowy dying.***
[/quote]
-
If the issue is not with the fuser, take the laser apart and see if there is any degradation of the mirror assembly coatings or toner penetration from several years of use; if it builds up enough, it will kill your print quality. You can take the laser out similarly to the fuser; it's just in the top area and a sealed box you need to dismantle.
+
If the issue is not with the fuser, take the laser apart and see if there is any degradation of the mirror assembly coatings or toner penetration from several years of use; if it builds up enough, it will kill your print quality. You can take the laser out similarly to the fuser; it's just in the top area and a sealed box you need to dismantle. Not much is needed to get to it beyond the plastic panels.
[quote|format=featured]
***CAUTION: IF YOU TRY AND CLEAN THE LASER, DO NOT BUMP THE SPINNING MOTOR OR TOUCH THE LASER REFLECTOR; only clean the mirrors. I would also strongly caution you to buy a pack of new virgin microfibers -- please. You want this perfect, meaning you'll also want to blow it out until it is borderline spotless; small dust is fine, but the mirrors CANNOT BE SMUDGED. This has the real potential to end the printer's lifetime due to parts cost, so only do this if you have mentally written it off.***
***This laser came off of a color laser, but the same principles apply.***
***Red= no touch***
***Green= virgin microfiber safe***
[/quote]
[image|3316475]
If the issue is still present with these checks, it is likely with something serious like the power supply. However, much like the laser, it's more to fix than the printer is worth, and it's arguably a much more awful repair than the fuser. Do yourself a favor and buy a new Canon laser printer or an older HP from 2012 like the M401 series (being mindful of the PC on the M401, which is 10+ years old, and potentially having to replace the paper pickup rollers and seprarators if it has ~20k pages when you get it).
It's usually one of 3 common reasons on these older HP lasers. Either a bad toner, bad fuser or laser issue where it is degraded or dirty.
First thing I always try when it's borderline is I'll replace the toner, even if it's reman; a lot of the time, it's some imaging component issue in the toner cart from age, but not always. Either way, these are cheap enough for old models (hint: I pay $25 for 2 80X compatibles for my M401).
If the issue remains with a new toner, do a "halfway test": do a test page and stop it mid-run to see if a bad fuser is introducing the issue. If it's perfect before you get to the fusing unit, the fuser is the culprit; it isn't getting hot enough to melt the toner due to the lamp wearing down. But be mindful of what you pay for the fuser and where you buy it. ''You want a used low PC fuser (dead formatter or it's on the way out, or someone who knows these parted it out because nobody who knows better tries to rehab the p2015) or a good rebuild. Don't put a junk fuser in these -- it will suck to replace a 2nd time!''
[quote|format=featured]
***CAUTION: The fuser on the P2015 is a nightmare to replace -- later models like the P2055 and M401 simplified it (at the expense of the printer's footprint, which is still good), but it's not a 5-minute job. This printer requires all 3 panels (top and sides) to come off, then you need to take a few parts of the frame off.*** [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHYSApFm5wg|No guide on this here yet, but it's deep inside this series :-(|new_window=true]
***This model is also prone to formatter board failures as it ages due to bad lead-free solder quality, but many of them died young; the surviving machines may be fine, but it's such a well-known issue that anyone who can work on a deep printer issue like this throws these to the side as if they're like surprise kids which come with a new relationship unless they're low PC uncorns. Most of the time, they have over 100k pages, need rollers or something or are slowy dying.***
[/quote]
If the issue is not with the fuser, take the laser apart and see if there is any degradation of the mirror assembly coatings or toner penetration from several years of use; if it builds up enough, it will kill your print quality. You can take the laser out similarly to the fuser; it's just in the top area and a sealed box you need to dismantle.
[quote|format=featured]
***CAUTION: IF YOU TRY AND CLEAN THE LASER, DO NOT BUMP THE SPINNING MOTOR OR TOUCH THE LASER REFLECTOR; only clean the mirrors. I would also strongly caution you to buy a pack of new virgin microfibers -- please. You want this perfect, meaning you'll also want to blow it out until it is borderline spotless; small dust is fine, but the mirrors CANNOT BE SMUDGED. This has the real potential to end the printer's lifetime due to parts cost, so only do this if you have mentally written it off.***
***This laser came off of a color laser, but the same principles apply.***
***Red= no touch***
***Green= virgin microfiber safe***
[/quote]
[image|3316475]
-
If the issue is still present with these checks, it is likely with something serious like the power supply. However, much like the laser, it's more to fix than the printer is worth, and it's arguably a much more awful repair than the fuser. Do yourself a favor and buy a new Canon laser printer or an older HP like the M401 series (being mindful of the PC on the M401, which is 10+ years old, and potentially having to replace the paper pickup rollers and seprarators if it has ~20k pages when you get it).
+
If the issue is still present with these checks, it is likely with something serious like the power supply. However, much like the laser, it's more to fix than the printer is worth, and it's arguably a much more awful repair than the fuser. Do yourself a favor and buy a new Canon laser printer or an older HP from 2012 like the M401 series (being mindful of the PC on the M401, which is 10+ years old, and potentially having to replace the paper pickup rollers and seprarators if it has ~20k pages when you get it).
It's usually one of 3 common reasons on these older HP lasers. Either a bad toner, bad fuser or laser issue where it is degraded or dirty.
First thing I always try when it's borderline is I'll replace the toner, even if it's reman; a lot of the time, it's some imaging component issue in the toner cart from age, but not always. Either way, these are cheap enough for old models (hint: I pay $25 for 2 80X compatibles for my M401).
If the issue remains with a new toner, do a "halfway test": do a test page and stop it mid-run to see if a bad fuser is introducing the issue. If it's perfect before you get to the fusing unit, the fuser is the culprit; it isn't getting hot enough to melt the toner due to the lamp wearing down. But be mindful of what you pay for the fuser and where you buy it. ''You want a used low PC fuser (dead formatter or it's on the way out, or someone who knows these parted it out because nobody who knows better tries to rehab the p2015) or a good rebuild. Don't put a junk fuser in these -- it will suck to replace a 2nd time!''
[quote|format=featured]
***CAUTION: The fuser on the P2015 is a nightmare to replace -- later models like the P2055 and M401 simplified it (at the expense of the printer's footprint, which is still good), but it's not a 5-minute job. This printer requires all 3 panels (top and sides) to come off, then you need to take a few parts of the frame off.*** [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHYSApFm5wg|No guide on this here yet, but it's deep inside this series :-(|new_window=true]
***This model is also prone to formatter board failures as it ages due to bad lead-free solder quality, but many of them died young; the surviving machines may be fine, but it's such a well-known issue that anyone who can work on a deep printer issue like this throws these to the side as if they're like surprise kids which come with a new relationship unless they're low PC uncorns. Most of the time, they have over 100k pages, need rollers or something or are slowy dying.***
[/quote]
If the issue is not with the fuser, take the laser apart and see if there is any degradation of the mirror assembly coatings or toner penetration from several years of use; if it builds up enough, it will kill your print quality. You can take the laser out similarly to the fuser; it's just in the top area and a sealed box you need to dismantle.
[quote|format=featured]
***CAUTION: IF YOU TRY AND CLEAN THE LASER, DO NOT BUMP THE SPINNING MOTOR OR TOUCH THE LASER REFLECTOR; only clean the mirrors. I would also strongly caution you to buy a pack of new virgin microfibers -- please. You want this perfect, meaning you'll also want to blow it out until it is borderline spotless; small dust is fine, but the mirrors CANNOT BE SMUDGED. This has the real potential to end the printer's lifetime due to parts cost, so only do this if you have mentally written it off.***
***This laser came off of a color laser, but the same principles apply.***
***Red= no touch***
***Green= virgin microfiber safe***
[/quote]
[image|3316475]
-
If the issue is still present with these checks, it is likely with something serious like the power supply. However, much like the laser, it's more to fix than the printer is worth, and it's arguably a much more awful repair than the fuser. Do yourself a favor and buy a new Canon laser printer or an older HP like the M401 series (being mindful of the PC on the M401, which is 10+ years old).
+
If the issue is still present with these checks, it is likely with something serious like the power supply. However, much like the laser, it's more to fix than the printer is worth, and it's arguably a much more awful repair than the fuser. Do yourself a favor and buy a new Canon laser printer or an older HP like the M401 series (being mindful of the PC on the M401, which is 10+ years old, and potentially having to replace the paper pickup rollers and seprarators if it has ~20k pages when you get it).
It's usually one of 3 common reasons on these older HP lasers. Either a bad toner, bad fuser or laser issue where it is degraded or dirty.
First thing I always try when it's borderline is I'll replace the toner, even if it's reman; a lot of the time, it's some imaging component issue in the toner cart from age, but not always. Either way, these are cheap enough for old models (hint: I pay $25 for 2 80X compatibles for my M401).
If the issue remains with a new toner, do a "halfway test": do a test page and stop it mid-run to see if a bad fuser is introducing the issue. If it's perfect before you get to the fusing unit, the fuser is the culprit; it isn't getting hot enough to melt the toner due to the lamp wearing down. But be mindful of what you pay for the fuser and where you buy it. ''You want a used low PC fuser (dead formatter or it's on the way out, or someone who knows these parted it out because nobody who knows better tries to rehab the p2015) or a good rebuild. Don't put a junk fuser in these -- it will suck to replace a 2nd time!''
[quote|format=featured]
-
***CAUTION: The fuser on the P2015 is a nightmare to replace -- later models like the P2055 and M401 simplified it, but it's still not a 5-minute job. This printer requires all 3 panels (top and sides) to come off, then you need to take a few parts of the frame off.*** [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHYSApFm5wg|No guide on this here yet, but it's deep inside this series :-(|new_window=true]
+
***CAUTION: The fuser on the P2015 is a nightmare to replace -- later models like the P2055 and M401 simplified it (at the expense of the printer's footprint, which is still good), but it's not a 5-minute job. This printer requires all 3 panels (top and sides) to come off, then you need to take a few parts of the frame off.*** [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHYSApFm5wg|No guide on this here yet, but it's deep inside this series :-(|new_window=true]
-
***This model is also prone to formatter board failures as it ages due to bad lead-free solder quality, but many of them died young; the surviving machines may be fine, but it's such a well-known issue that anyone who can work on a deep printer issue throws these to the side if they're like surprise kids which come with a new relationship unless they're low PC uncorns. Most are 100k+ and either inconsistent or dying, and get dumped.***
+
***This model is also prone to formatter board failures as it ages due to bad lead-free solder quality, but many of them died young; the surviving machines may be fine, but it's such a well-known issue that anyone who can work on a deep printer issue like this throws these to the side as if they're like surprise kids which come with a new relationship unless they're low PC uncorns. Most of the time, they have over 100k pages, need rollers or something or are slowy dying.***
[/quote]
If the issue is not with the fuser, take the laser apart and see if there is any degradation of the mirror assembly coatings or toner penetration from several years of use; if it builds up enough, it will kill your print quality. You can take the laser out similarly to the fuser; it's just in the top area and a sealed box you need to dismantle.
[quote|format=featured]
***CAUTION: IF YOU TRY AND CLEAN THE LASER, DO NOT BUMP THE SPINNING MOTOR OR TOUCH THE LASER REFLECTOR; only clean the mirrors. I would also strongly caution you to buy a pack of new virgin microfibers -- please. You want this perfect, meaning you'll also want to blow it out until it is borderline spotless; small dust is fine, but the mirrors CANNOT BE SMUDGED. This has the real potential to end the printer's lifetime due to parts cost, so only do this if you have mentally written it off.***
***This laser came off of a color laser, but the same principles apply.***
***Red= no touch***
***Green= virgin microfiber safe***
[/quote]
[image|3316475]
If the issue is still present with these checks, it is likely with something serious like the power supply. However, much like the laser, it's more to fix than the printer is worth, and it's arguably a much more awful repair than the fuser. Do yourself a favor and buy a new Canon laser printer or an older HP like the M401 series (being mindful of the PC on the M401, which is 10+ years old).
It's usually one of 3 common reasons on these older HP lasers. Either a bad toner, bad fuser or laser issue where it is degraded or dirty.
First thing I always try when it's borderline is I'll replace the toner, even if it's reman; a lot of the time, it's some imaging component issue in the toner cart from age, but not always. Either way, these are cheap enough for old models (hint: I pay $25 for 2 80X compatibles for my M401).
-
If the issue remains with a new toner, do a "halfway test": do a test page and then stop it mid-run to see if a bad fuser is introducing the issue. If it's perfect before you get to the fusing unit, the fuser is the culprit; it isn't getting hot enough to melt the toner due to the lamp wearing down. But be mindful of what you pay for the fuser, and where you buy it. You want a used low PC fuser (dead formatter or it's on the way out, or someone who knows these parted it out because nobody who knows better tries to rehab the p2015).
+
If the issue remains with a new toner, do a "halfway test": do a test page and stop it mid-run to see if a bad fuser is introducing the issue. If it's perfect before you get to the fusing unit, the fuser is the culprit; it isn't getting hot enough to melt the toner due to the lamp wearing down. But be mindful of what you pay for the fuser and where you buy it. ''You want a used low PC fuser (dead formatter or it's on the way out, or someone who knows these parted it out because nobody who knows better tries to rehab the p2015) or a good rebuild. Don't put a junk fuser in these -- it will suck to replace a 2nd time!''
[quote|format=featured]
***CAUTION: The fuser on the P2015 is a nightmare to replace -- later models like the P2055 and M401 simplified it, but it's still not a 5-minute job. This printer requires all 3 panels (top and sides) to come off, then you need to take a few parts of the frame off.*** [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHYSApFm5wg|No guide on this here yet, but it's deep inside this series :-(|new_window=true]
***This model is also prone to formatter board failures as it ages due to bad lead-free solder quality, but many of them died young; the surviving machines may be fine, but it's such a well-known issue that anyone who can work on a deep printer issue throws these to the side if they're like surprise kids which come with a new relationship unless they're low PC uncorns. Most are 100k+ and either inconsistent or dying, and get dumped.***
[/quote]
If the issue is not with the fuser, take the laser apart and see if there is any degradation of the mirror assembly coatings or toner penetration from several years of use; if it builds up enough, it will kill your print quality. You can take the laser out similarly to the fuser; it's just in the top area and a sealed box you need to dismantle.
[quote|format=featured]
***CAUTION: IF YOU TRY AND CLEAN THE LASER, DO NOT BUMP THE SPINNING MOTOR OR TOUCH THE LASER REFLECTOR; only clean the mirrors. I would also strongly caution you to buy a pack of new virgin microfibers -- please. You want this perfect, meaning you'll also want to blow it out until it is borderline spotless; small dust is fine, but the mirrors CANNOT BE SMUDGED. This has the real potential to end the printer's lifetime due to parts cost, so only do this if you have mentally written it off.***
***This laser came off of a color laser, but the same principles apply.***
***Red= no touch***
***Green= virgin microfiber safe***
[/quote]
[image|3316475]
If the issue is still present with these checks, it is likely with something serious like the power supply. However, much like the laser, it's more to fix than the printer is worth, and it's arguably a much more awful repair than the fuser. Do yourself a favor and buy a new Canon laser printer or an older HP like the M401 series (being mindful of the PC on the M401, which is 10+ years old).
It's usually one of 3 common reasons on these older HP lasers. Either a bad toner, bad fuser or laser issue where it is degraded or dirty.
First thing I always try when it's borderline is I'll replace the toner, even if it's reman; a lot of the time, it's some imaging component issue in the toner cart from age, but not always. Either way, these are cheap enough for old models (hint: I pay $25 for 2 80X compatibles for my M401).
-
If the issue remains with a new toner, do a "halfway test" where you do a test page and then stop it mid-run to see if the issue is being introduced by a bad fuser. If it's perfect before you get to the fusing unit, the fuser is the culprit; it isn't getting hot enough to melt the toner due to the lamp wearing down.
+
If the issue remains with a new toner, do a "halfway test": do a test page and then stop it mid-run to see if a bad fuser is introducing the issue. If it's perfect before you get to the fusing unit, the fuser is the culprit; it isn't getting hot enough to melt the toner due to the lamp wearing down. But be mindful of what you pay for the fuser, and where you buy it. You want a used low PC fuser (dead formatter or it's on the way out, or someone who knows these parted it out because nobody who knows better tries to rehab the p2015).
[quote|format=featured]
***CAUTION: The fuser on the P2015 is a nightmare to replace -- later models like the P2055 and M401 simplified it, but it's still not a 5-minute job. This printer requires all 3 panels (top and sides) to come off, then you need to take a few parts of the frame off.*** [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHYSApFm5wg|No guide on this here yet, but it's deep inside this series :-(|new_window=true]
***This model is also prone to formatter board failures as it ages due to bad lead-free solder quality, but many of them died young; the surviving machines may be fine, but it's such a well-known issue that anyone who can work on a deep printer issue throws these to the side if they're like surprise kids which come with a new relationship unless they're low PC uncorns. Most are 100k+ and either inconsistent or dying, and get dumped.***
[/quote]
-
If the issue is not with the fuser, take the laser apart and see if there is any degradation of the mirror assembly or toner penetration from several years of use; if it builds up enough, it will kill your print quality. You can take the laser out similarly to the fuser; it's just in the top area and a sealed box you need to dismantle.
+
If the issue is not with the fuser, take the laser apart and see if there is any degradation of the mirror assembly coatings or toner penetration from several years of use; if it builds up enough, it will kill your print quality. You can take the laser out similarly to the fuser; it's just in the top area and a sealed box you need to dismantle.
[quote|format=featured]
***CAUTION: IF YOU TRY AND CLEAN THE LASER, DO NOT BUMP THE SPINNING MOTOR OR TOUCH THE LASER REFLECTOR; only clean the mirrors. I would also strongly caution you to buy a pack of new virgin microfibers -- please. You want this perfect, meaning you'll also want to blow it out until it is borderline spotless; small dust is fine, but the mirrors CANNOT BE SMUDGED. This has the real potential to end the printer's lifetime due to parts cost, so only do this if you have mentally written it off.***
***This laser came off of a color laser, but the same principles apply.***
***Red= no touch***
***Green= virgin microfiber safe***
[/quote]
[image|3316475]
-
If the issue is still present with these checks, it is likely with something serious like the power supply. However, much like the laser, it's more to fix than the printer is worth at this point. Do yourself a favor and buy a new Canon laser printer or an older HP like the M401 series (being mindful of the PC on the M401, which is 10+ years old).
+
If the issue is still present with these checks, it is likely with something serious like the power supply. However, much like the laser, it's more to fix than the printer is worth, and it's arguably a much more awful repair than the fuser. Do yourself a favor and buy a new Canon laser printer or an older HP like the M401 series (being mindful of the PC on the M401, which is 10+ years old).
It's usually one of 3 common reasons on these older HP lasers. Either a bad toner, bad fuser or laser issue where it is degraded or dirty.
First thing I always try when it's borderline is I'll replace the toner, even if it's reman; a lot of the time, it's some imaging component issue in the toner cart from age, but not always. Either way, these are cheap enough for old models (hint: I pay $25 for 2 80X compatibles for my M401).
If the issue remains with a new toner, do a "halfway test" where you do a test page and then stop it mid-run to see if the issue is being introduced by a bad fuser. If it's perfect before you get to the fusing unit, the fuser is the culprit; it isn't getting hot enough to melt the toner due to the lamp wearing down.
[quote|format=featured]
-
***CAUTION: The fuser on the P2015 is a nightmare to replace -- later models like the P2055 and M401 simplified it, but it's still not a 5-minute job. This printer requires all 3 panels (top and sides) to come off, then you need to take a few parts of the frame off. [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHYSApFm5wg|No guide on this here yet, but it's deep inside this series :-(]***
+
***CAUTION: The fuser on the P2015 is a nightmare to replace -- later models like the P2055 and M401 simplified it, but it's still not a 5-minute job. This printer requires all 3 panels (top and sides) to come off, then you need to take a few parts of the frame off.*** [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHYSApFm5wg|No guide on this here yet, but it's deep inside this series :-(|new_window=true]
-
***This model is also prone to formatter board failures as it ages due to bad lead-free solder quality, but many of them died young; the surviving machines may be fine, but it's such a well-known issue that anyone who can work on a deep printer issue throws these if they come with the deal unless it's somehow a genuine low PC unit; most are 100k+ and either inconsistent or dying.***
+
***This model is also prone to formatter board failures as it ages due to bad lead-free solder quality, but many of them died young; the surviving machines may be fine, but it's such a well-known issue that anyone who can work on a deep printer issue throws these to the side if they're like surprise kids which come with a new relationship unless they're low PC uncorns. Most are 100k+ and either inconsistent or dying, and get dumped.***
[/quote]
If the issue is not with the fuser, take the laser apart and see if there is any degradation of the mirror assembly or toner penetration from several years of use; if it builds up enough, it will kill your print quality. You can take the laser out similarly to the fuser; it's just in the top area and a sealed box you need to dismantle.
[quote|format=featured]
***CAUTION: IF YOU TRY AND CLEAN THE LASER, DO NOT BUMP THE SPINNING MOTOR OR TOUCH THE LASER REFLECTOR; only clean the mirrors. I would also strongly caution you to buy a pack of new virgin microfibers -- please. You want this perfect, meaning you'll also want to blow it out until it is borderline spotless; small dust is fine, but the mirrors CANNOT BE SMUDGED. This has the real potential to end the printer's lifetime due to parts cost, so only do this if you have mentally written it off.***
***This laser came off of a color laser, but the same principles apply.***
***Red= no touch***
***Green= virgin microfiber safe***
[/quote]
[image|3316475]
-
If the issue is still present with all of these checks, it is likely with something serious like the power supply. However, much like the laser, it's more to fix than the printer is worth at this point. Do yourself a favor and buy a new Canon laser printer or an older HP like the M401 series (being mindful of the PC on the M401, which is 10+ years old).
+
If the issue is still present with these checks, it is likely with something serious like the power supply. However, much like the laser, it's more to fix than the printer is worth at this point. Do yourself a favor and buy a new Canon laser printer or an older HP like the M401 series (being mindful of the PC on the M401, which is 10+ years old).
It's usually one of 3 common reasons on these older HP lasers. Either a bad toner, bad fuser or laser issue where it is degraded or dirty.
First thing I always try when it's borderline is I'll replace the toner, even if it's reman; a lot of the time, it's some imaging component issue in the toner cart from age, but not always. Either way, these are cheap enough for old models (hint: I pay $25 for 2 80X compatibles for my M401).
If the issue remains with a new toner, do a "halfway test" where you do a test page and then stop it mid-run to see if the issue is being introduced by a bad fuser. If it's perfect before you get to the fusing unit, the fuser is the culprit; it isn't getting hot enough to melt the toner due to the lamp wearing down.
-
[quote|format=featured]***CAUTION: The fuser on the P2015 is a nightmare to replace -- later models like the P2055 and M401 simplified it, but it's still not a 5-minute job. This printer requires all 3 panels (top and sides) to come off, then you need to take a few parts of the frame off. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHYSApFm5wg|No guide on this here yet, but it's deep inside this series :-(|new_window=true]***
+
[quote|format=featured]
+
***CAUTION: The fuser on the P2015 is a nightmare to replace -- later models like the P2055 and M401 simplified it, but it's still not a 5-minute job. This printer requires all 3 panels (top and sides) to come off, then you need to take a few parts of the frame off. [link|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHYSApFm5wg|No guide on this here yet, but it's deep inside this series :-(]***
-
***This model is also prone to formatter board failures as it ages due to bad lead-free solder quality, but many of them died young; the surviving machines may be fine, but it's such a well-known issue that anyone who can work on a deep printer issue throws these if they come with the deal unless it's somehow a genuine low PC unit; most are 100k+ and either inconsistent or dying.***[/quote]
+
***This model is also prone to formatter board failures as it ages due to bad lead-free solder quality, but many of them died young; the surviving machines may be fine, but it's such a well-known issue that anyone who can work on a deep printer issue throws these if they come with the deal unless it's somehow a genuine low PC unit; most are 100k+ and either inconsistent or dying.***
+
[/quote]
If the issue is not with the fuser, take the laser apart and see if there is any degradation of the mirror assembly or toner penetration from several years of use; if it builds up enough, it will kill your print quality. You can take the laser out similarly to the fuser; it's just in the top area and a sealed box you need to dismantle.
-
[quote|format=featured]***CAUTION: IF YOU TRY AND CLEAN THE LASER, DO NOT BUMP THE SPINNING MOTOR OR TOUCH THE LASER REFLECTOR; only clean the mirrors. I would also strongly caution you to buy a pack of new virgin microfibers -- please. You want this perfect, meaning you'll also want to blow it out until it is borderline spotless; small dust is fine, but the mirrors CANNOT BE SMUDGED. This has the real potential to end the printer's lifetime due to parts cost, so only do this if you have mentally written it off.***
+
[quote|format=featured]
+
***CAUTION: IF YOU TRY AND CLEAN THE LASER, DO NOT BUMP THE SPINNING MOTOR OR TOUCH THE LASER REFLECTOR; only clean the mirrors. I would also strongly caution you to buy a pack of new virgin microfibers -- please. You want this perfect, meaning you'll also want to blow it out until it is borderline spotless; small dust is fine, but the mirrors CANNOT BE SMUDGED. This has the real potential to end the printer's lifetime due to parts cost, so only do this if you have mentally written it off.***
+
+
***This laser came off of a color laser, but the same principles apply.***
***Red= no touch***
-
***Green= virgin microfiber safe***[/quote]
+
***Green= virgin microfiber safe***
+
[/quote]
[image|3316475]
-
If the issue is still present with all of these checks, the issue is likely with something serious like the power supply, but much like the laser, it's more to fix than the printer is worth at this point. Do yourself a favor and buy a new Canon laser printer or buy an older HP like the M401 series (being mindful of the PC on the M401, being 10+ years old).
+
+
+
If the issue is still present with all of these checks, it is likely with something serious like the power supply. However, much like the laser, it's more to fix than the printer is worth at this point. Do yourself a favor and buy a new Canon laser printer or an older HP like the M401 series (being mindful of the PC on the M401, which is 10+ years old).
It's usually one of 3 common reasons on these older HP lasers. Either a bad toner, bad fuser or laser issue where it is degraded or dirty.
First thing I always try when it's borderline is I'll replace the toner, even if it's reman; a lot of the time, it's some imaging component issue in the toner cart from age, but not always. Either way, these are cheap enough for old models (hint: I pay $25 for 2 80X compatibles for my M401).
If the issue remains with a new toner, do a "halfway test" where you do a test page and then stop it mid-run to see if the issue is being introduced by a bad fuser. If it's perfect before you get to the fusing unit, the fuser is the culprit; it isn't getting hot enough to melt the toner due to the lamp wearing down.
[quote|format=featured]***CAUTION: The fuser on the P2015 is a nightmare to replace -- later models like the P2055 and M401 simplified it, but it's still not a 5-minute job. This printer requires all 3 panels (top and sides) to come off, then you need to take a few parts of the frame off. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YHYSApFm5wg|No guide on this here yet, but it's deep inside this series :-(|new_window=true]***
***This model is also prone to formatter board failures as it ages due to bad lead-free solder quality, but many of them died young; the surviving machines may be fine, but it's such a well-known issue that anyone who can work on a deep printer issue throws these if they come with the deal unless it's somehow a genuine low PC unit; most are 100k+ and either inconsistent or dying.***[/quote]
If the issue is not with the fuser, take the laser apart and see if there is any degradation of the mirror assembly or toner penetration from several years of use; if it builds up enough, it will kill your print quality. You can take the laser out similarly to the fuser; it's just in the top area and a sealed box you need to dismantle.
[quote|format=featured]***CAUTION: IF YOU TRY AND CLEAN THE LASER, DO NOT BUMP THE SPINNING MOTOR OR TOUCH THE LASER REFLECTOR; only clean the mirrors. I would also strongly caution you to buy a pack of new virgin microfibers -- please. You want this perfect, meaning you'll also want to blow it out until it is borderline spotless; small dust is fine, but the mirrors CANNOT BE SMUDGED. This has the real potential to end the printer's lifetime due to parts cost, so only do this if you have mentally written it off.***
***Red= no touch***
***Green= virgin microfiber safe***[/quote]
[image|3316475]
If the issue is still present with all of these checks, the issue is likely with something serious like the power supply, but much like the laser, it's more to fix than the printer is worth at this point. Do yourself a favor and buy a new Canon laser printer or buy an older HP like the M401 series (being mindful of the PC on the M401, being 10+ years old).