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Nintendo's first 3DS handheld device released February 2011, identified by model number CTR-001.

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Solder not sticking on the motherboard.

Hello,

So I bought a faulty 3ds off eBay (knowingly) because I love fixing things.

I am having the usual "screen popping console shutdown" problem, so I removed both of the fuses and have replacements ready to fit.

The problem is that on the F2 fuse one side of the fuse will not solder down, the solder just doesn't stick, but the other side sticks fine.

I was just wondering is there ANYTHING that I can do about this or have a completely ruined my mobo and have to replace it?

Thank you for taking the time in reading this and thanks for the help in advance.

Fabian

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What size/type iron - what solder - what flux - how pre-clean the board?

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30w, 2mm tip, lead-free, Sn 99.3% and Cu 0.7%.

I didn't clean the board I just trimmed down the old solder, but that has now melted away.

Thank you

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Yea - the solder is not supposed to stick to the board... but to the circuit... you may have destroyed that. You might be able to repair that - but it's a lot of finicky work. If that doesn't work or, if its too much for you finding a repair shop that will undertake the task, or, replacing the board seems the only option.

If this Answer is helpful please remember to return and mark it Accepted.

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Thank you so much for this guide!

Thank you again.

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Machead3, I have done this, and I have managed to solder the fuses onto the copper circuit.

But now it won't charge, do you have any idea why this is?

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Also even now after the fuses have been soldered on, with two brand new LCDs (top and bottom), it is still doing the "screen popping console shutdown," and on top of that, now it won't charge.

Thank you

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Nope - no idea's I could help with the soldering problem - know nothing about Nintendos.

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That's no problem, you could have a look at the soldering do you mean?

Thanks for the quick replies by the way, very helpful.

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Quick and dirty, take an exacto knife a lightly scrape away the coating ontop of the printed copper run further down and solder a jumper using flux and low temp.

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I will try this. Thank you.

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Hi There,

I'd have to say I agree with both responses.

Did you have any luck with the solder jumper?

I spent several of my younger years working as a full time bench technician testing and repairing Data Communications and Networking equipment.

I couldn't keep count of the number of times I had to clean both component legs and the printed copper on PCB's, otherwise the solder just wouldn't stick in a lot of cases. I used to give them a gentle rub with course emery cloth (sand paper), and the solder would then stick to them like dream.

Cheers Paul

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Yeah I managed to get both the fuses soldered on (I think, will need someone to check, feel free to volunteer) but I'm still having the same popping and shutdown issue, and also it won't charge now either.

Thank you

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You need to go buy a can of flux. You wipe on the area and it makes the solider stick to areas that don't want to accept the solider. Also it possibly be made from a metal that needs a special type of solider but try the flux first.

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Thank you! Now I fully understand what flux does and how useful it is, I need a nice basic explanation like that!

5 stars if I could give you them!

Thanks again

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