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Released June 2009 / 2.66, 2.8, or 3.06 GHz Core 2 Duo Processor

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Green Pixelation on lcd display

So I started repair on a mac laptop with a cracked/damaged LCD assembly. It is a A1286 (EMC 2325) from mid 2009, last 3 serial # is 644. The LCD had a few cracks on the glass, plus the bezel for the display assembly was cracked/loose and janky. It displayed things with green pixels throughout. I then checked the external display out and it worked just fine. I figured it was best to replace the LCD and to be safe the lvds cable. After doing so I got the SAME issue as with the other LCD which is green pixelation. I swapped cable, lcd's, old vs. new. All with the same result. I am now slightly baffled. My only thought was maybe the lvds connector was loose on the board. I then resoldered it extremely carefully, cleaned off any excess flux and then gave it a shot of deoxit, STILL same issues. I am just no sure if I am missing something. My only 2 thoughts are the lvds connector is totally damaged or some how the video card is damaged, but only for the internal output and I am not sure if that is possible. Thanks for any help.

Bu soruyu yanıtlayın Ben de bu sorunu yaşıyorum

Bu iyi bir soru mu?

Puan 1


How did you replace the LCD? Did you replace the complete lid assembly or did you take it apart to replace just the LCD screen alone?


I just replaced the lcd alone. Is there something in the complete lid assembly that helps the LCD color function? I thought all information related to the video comes from the LVDS connector. The other connector I thought was just for bluetooth and wireless, but please correct me if I'm wrong. Thank you so so much.


No I don't think its the lid or anything like that cause this is a loose lcd, although I was just thinking, does the case ground the LCD some necessary way?


So I replaced the LVDS connector on the motherboard and it fixed it!!! I must say it wasn't an easy unsoldering task. For starters the solder just naturally wants to attach itself to the ground plane of the connector, so I found it best to carfefully lift every pin of the connector with a extremely pointy dental pick. Then heat up the ground plane and it comes right off. You can set the new one back into the guides in the board, adding a slight drop of glue in there will also help hold it, so you can solder it down without moving it. Once I did that it was all good. Thanks everyone for your input.


Wow! I'm impressed using a soldering iron with these fine contacts is very difficult. Brian give your self credit here as you answered your own question, mark it answered (resolved).


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Is it possible the lid is warped or dented? Causing a short. Is there any dents on the bottom cover as well.

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