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logicboard LVDS connector broken after liquid spill

Hi All,

Im hoping that some of you could offer me some assistance. I have a Macbook Air 13" (Late 2013) that unfortunatly had a glass of water spilt over it. I couldnt open it straight away as i didnt have the correct screwdriver kit. I purchased a kit and got it opened and it didnt look too bad but at this point i hadnt tried to turn it on. I cleaned up the board and turned it on... and too my surprise it turned on and the boot tone sounded but the screen didnt turn on.

I switched it back off and had a closer inspection of the video cable, and i found that the display connector (LVDS?) is damaged and needs replacing. I am experienced with soldering SMD devices (however these pins are rather small), so dont mind trying to repair it.

Where can i get one here in the UK? i see China supplies them but in batches of 10. What is the actual name of them as they are only supplying them under Macbook Air LVDS connector.

Is there anything else i need to look at? does the power for the backlight go through this same cable?

Thanks very much for your time

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Bu iyi bir soru mu?

Puan 0


Well ive had a better look at the Macbook and it looks as though the cable and connector are both needing replacement. Im going to have to take the long wait option on the cable, ordering from China.

Further to the LCD not working, i have booted the macbook with an external display attached and all but the battery works. Its showing;

Charge Information:

Charge Remaining (mAh): 0

Fully Charged: No

Full Charge Capacity (mAh): 6808

Health Information:

Cycle Count: 78

Condition: Replace Now

Battery Installed: Yes

Amperage (mA): 0

Voltage (mV): 6632

Does this sound as if the battery is dead or the control circuit is dead? There is some corrosion on the battery battery plug and three pins on the logic board socket are slightly tarnished, but testing with a mutimeter shows them as having continuity. A small black chip above the battery socket has a few corrosion marks around its terminals but all sides of it show continuity (not sure what its supposed to be though).


Also, does changing the LVDS cable require removing the aluminium bezel or just the hinge cover? thanks


"A small black chip above the battery socket has a few corrosion marks around its terminals but all sides of it show continuity (not sure what its supposed to be though)" sounds like you have a lot going on. did you ever clean the board with isopropyl alcohol and a soft brush to remove the corrosion etc? Checked for any further damage to any components? Continuity is a great test but very unreliable since there are components that do have continuity but have failed anyways. You may need to show us those components as well.


Yes its been cleaned with IPA 99.9% IPA around the corrosion and the board looks pritty much new, however there is a few iffy bits as described above. Ive ordered a new battery and VCDS cable anyhow, but id still like to test that component as its the only one other than the known back VCDS that has any noticeable corrosion.

I will get some pictures up today of all the bits mentioned.


finally got a picture (sorry for the delay)

As you can see there is a little corrosion around the terminals of the SMD's

I am still waiting for bits to come from China but hopefully they will be here within the next week or so


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JayT, the connector is a i-PEX: i-Pex 20525-130E-01 CAB CA 30 pins. Yes, the backlight goes through the same connector/cable. You could try Farnell and see if they can help you. Hope this helps, good luck.

Bu yanıt yardımcı oldu mu?

Puan 1


Thanks for the reply, i cant see anything on google for 'i-PEX:CAB CA' do you have a more specific part number at all?

Its good to know the power goes through the same cable, im hoping its just the connector thats melted as it looks like the pins have warped, but time will tell. Ive been tempted on trying to straighten them and resolder them but i dont want to risk more damage to the board in the process.


I have found CABLINE-CA 20525-030E-02

Are these connectors different to the earlier macbook air models or the same? thanks


Still no luck finding it here in the UK, however i think i will attempt to straighten the pins and test that none are touching internally If thats OK i will try soldering the pins back down to see if i can get some sort of life.

I will keep posted, but wont be able to have a propper look at it until friday. What are the odds of the cable/display being damaged too?



Sorry, missed copying the number. It is a i-Pex 20525-130E-01


something like this should work.


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