5.7 amp 110 volt hartford conn. the frank e wolcott mfg co. pat'd nov 15, 1920
feb 15, 1927
The spring heating element broke. I bent the ends and hooked them onto each end and toaster works but I'm sure it needs replacement! Thank You
Bu iyi bir soru mu?
İtibar: 685,2b
3,4b
1,1b
2,6b
If you re talking about the coil pictured here: https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/1...
They will most likely need to be made by hand. @oldturkey03 might have a better idea on finding someone to do this.
You can get a look on what the coils look like on this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=as97O0y4...
You might be able to make one. Measure the diameter of the wire. Wrap it around and around a pencil. See how much wire it take to get it to look like what was in it originally, then how much it will take to do the whole thing and start wrapping.
Use a digital caliper to measure the thickest part of the wire.
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What gauge wire would be best??
Copper wire or another material?
İtibar: 781,5b
1,1b
893
2,3b
gmanmcusa you do not not want to use copper. It will either melt or shorten out internally and become a fire hazard. What you do need is some high resistance wire. The best would be what has been used for heating coils in toasters, which is NiChrome wire. An 80/20 alloy wire (80%Nickel/20%Chromium also called NiChrome A) would work. With that you are looking at a melting point of around 2,550F vs Copper at 1,980F. Resistance of Copper wire (2ft) is 0.164ohm versus NiChrome at 10.16 Ohms/ft. Stick with a 32 gauge wire. If that gets to hot you can go to a 30 gauge.
I checked my old toaster (restoration project and not as old as yours) and it has flat wire, but I am sure that the round will work for your toaster as well. Let us know how it works out.
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Great, I did not know about the wire composition.
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