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Hi my iPad Pro 9.7 screen and LCD is broken in small bits I have seen answers saying it is better to use a heat gun to remove the broken screen does that mean an actual heat gun or can you use a hair dryer Thanks
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A hot plate would be too hot and not focused enough. All you’ll you do is damage the LCD from the excessive heat.
Use a heat gun or a hair dryer to soften the adhesive along the edges. Using the techniques outlined in this guide: iPad Pro 9.7" Screen Replacement you should be able to lift the cover glass (if the cover glass is intact you can forgo the tape)
No solvents needed here!
Wear eyeglasses with side shields and proper gloves.
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The heat Plate is normally use by a lot of us that have store.The trick with the heat plate is to put temperature around 75/80 grades (iPad Power off) and facing the glass with the heat plate.You put your timer max 8 minutes and that will not cause any issues on the battery and logic board or other components.About the LCD I believe that the iPad Pro Display is one piece (like iphones displays) but for sure he can count that display will not have any issues.
About the Adhesive remover I need to clear up that is not a SOLVENT is call PDI PADS with is use in the medical world to remove the adhesive on patients.Something that I did forget is that to remove that adhesive you can use your nylon spudger or you can use a putty knife if the flat heat slow so you don't scratch the frame and going on the outside direction so you can protect the battery and logic board.
Any help @g4ran let me know no problem with that :)
Actually Dan, using a heat pad is the current Best Practice for removing iPad screens. As @gadgetboxrd says, as long as you don't forget the iPad on the heat pad over lunch, they work great. As a side note, iFixit now sells a t-shirt press to re-adhere the screen and activate the adhesive which goes to show that the screen can take a sustained amount of heat, as long as it is uniformly applied. That's where the heat gun approach can be problematic as it takes a steady hand and a certain experience level to get right.
@refectio - I was thinking of a heating plate for a teapot or kitchen griddle ;-}
An iOpener, heat gun (used carefully) or a small heat pad (used by people with arteritis) that focuses the heat to the edge of the glass are all OK for a DIY.
It's the heating of the full glass that needs to be monitored as overheating will damage the LCD screen.
The heat pads in your URL link will work as they are temp controlled. And, the IFIXIT heating press is also OK as it has a thermal sensor but thats not something a DIY person would buy for fixing their own iPad.
I agree, I didn't spend a whole lot of time thinking about "those" kinds of hot plates. When I started, I used a magic bag (some kind of grain inside, like the iOpener but bigger). It covered the whole screen and would get it up to about 60C. It worked but it required several re-heats.
heating using heat pad sunshine model S-918E for 5 to 6 minutes and 90 degree celsius destroy my iPad Air 4 , backlight reflector plastic
now it becomes wrinkled & show shadow spots everywhere when i open up a white background image
i already tried 80 celsius it also broken my iPad Pro 12.9 2018 backlight reflector plastic sheet
i use heating pad usually to remove OLED screen from samsung's & no harm done to screen
apple's iPad is not recommended to be heated with heat pad? i usually using hot gun but its not hot enough to melt the glue
any advice from more experienced fixers here? as i'm only using this heat pad for iPad Air 4, iPad Pro 12.9 2018, iPad Air 2, all has the same results, broken backlight reflector, and i have to lost lots of money to buy new displays to replace them to the condition when i received them as customers were not happy with the screen has various shadows spots everywhere on the screen 🙏🏼
or anyone has advice on fixing the plastic sheets that is used as backlight reflector?
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You can use the Heat Gun for sure. But, the difference with the hot plate is that if for example you put the temperature in 80 degrees (hot plate) the complete screen will get the same temperature. If you have one you can use 75-to 80 grades for about 8 minutes so the adhesive can be loose well. Always use the guitar picks and use them with care.
With the heat gun you need to put air in all the border of the glass with movement until you felt hot (hot that you can touch) so you can start to work all the way around.
I would recommend you have adhesive remover pads, alcohol, gloves and protective glasses :)
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That's interesting...I don't do a ton of iPad screen repairs but when I do, I tend to use 65-70C. Did you just use 75-80 as a starting point or did you find that it just simply worked better than lower temps?
Yeah,i use that temperature and works good for me.Like you know the trick is not forget the iPad in the heat plate @refectio :)
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everything you have said is wrong. a heat plate is probably the most focused attack to the adhesive you can have, as the entire unit is heated, therefore retaining its heat much much longer. the same way we preheat motherboards before we do solder work. a heat gun is more likely to do damage to the lcd than a heat plate set correctly. set it to 90 degrees, place the ipad on the heat pad as it warms up. this prevents shock from the sudden increase in heat. allow to sit at max temp around 88 to 90 degrees for 5 minutes. then use an isesamo and alcohol with guitar picks. dipping the isesamo tool in alcohol to help loosen the adhesive. use large auto window suction cup is nice as you can gently lift with the suction cup while using the tool, usually the glass will lift easily for you to place the tool in there without cracking the glass. we use this method to remove screens of ipads we need that we need to do internal work on. it works great for both keeping the screen in tact or removing a broken one.
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jsox79 - Sometimes you really need to read the issue "LCD is broken in small bits" A heat plate would not be the best choice in this case.
I second using a heat plate, but not just any heat plate. A heat plate with a silicone covering is ideal. 90 degrees is a bit much though. I use 60 degrees laying the iPad on its back for a 3 minutes then face down for another 3 minutes. Also, I strongly discourage using any metal separator tool. One slip and it will damage the sensors and buttons.
if you are beginner and have never opened an ipad screen, use a heat gun and plastic tools. if you are a professional i expect you to be dexterous with your hands and tools. the silicone mat is a must, im sorry i left that out. you need a buffer between the screen. ours is quite thick. if you let it set too long(ie 6-10min) you are going to ruin your screen with the backlight reflector issues. i suspect anyone who used a cheap one probably encountered issues as the cheaper ones are horrible at maintaining a temperature. Most will overheat so in fact you are sitting your ipad on 120 or 130 at 90. Mine heats consistently. If i set it to 90 it will usually hover at 85 to 88 on actual temperature, reaching peak temp of 90 and then cutting off.
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I use 80 degrees face down and it has warped 2 LCD's. I think I will lower my heat now, leave it longer and only place it back down. Placing the iPad face down means the lcd will be hanging down towards the digitiser, where as placing it back down, the LCD has the support of the battery below it
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A heat plate is usually the best option at 68 degrees, however, there are times when a heat gun can be helpful. Michael
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Don't trust the controls on a heat plate. (Mine is a GE pancake griddle with a funky bi-metallic control knob that I sole from my wife's kitchen cupboard!) Aim an IR gun at the surface and measure it. Readjust as necessary, letting it stabilize. When I do smartphones, I use 100 deg C, laying the glass, face down, for 2 minutes. Possibly using 90 deg C, or less, will work better and do less harm. I don't think it matters if the glass rests directly on the heating plate, as long as you don't scratch the surrounding bezel - Gorilla glass is impossible to scratch. The toughest part of this is not being too aggressive, lifting too much, too fast. If it is not releasing with a thin blade (single edge razor), then heat it some more. Good luck with solvents; acetone can damage most plastics and alcohol may not be aggressive enough. I would stick with heat and be very patient. This is not rocket science but it is VERY delicate. Always, ALWAYS, be ready to buy a new display and don't forget the custom strip adhesive for the edges, either way. I've never had problems gluing back phones, but the larger surface area of a tablet may require reheating and clamping. Here's an idea: make a metallic frame that sits on the heat plate that only delivers heat to the outer edges of a tablet display say... 1/2" wide (12mm). Maybe even make it slide in two directions to custom adapt it to the size of the screen edge. Or Lego-like; build what you need. Just a crazy idea.
Of course, wear goggles and use heat insulating gloves to move the device to a towel or silicone pad for extraction. Be smart and safe.
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Whatever you do, be very. VERY careful at the Home Button!! The bent over flex of the home button is right next to the adhesive for the display, which is only 1/8" (3mm) wide at that point - you will cut right through it. Peel it loose, LAST, after you have gone all the way arround and begun to lift it toward the home button end. Try to lift the adhesive at the Home Button without cutting it or sliding a spudger through that area. Extreme care at that one point of the whole job will save you untold hours of grief if you cut through that flex. If you do cut the flex, it must be repaired or you loose the Touch ID function when a new button is installed. Just DON'T DO IT!
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I have noticed that the iPad Air 2-4 seem to do ok with the hot plate but the regular I models with with digitizer and lcd in two pieces are worrisome. I hurt the lcd in a couple of I - 6s . Used same temperature of 80 for each and took them off quickly.
The issue I have is sealing the new screen back. while a couple of tapes on the market are fair I found that cleaning the metal bezel trough thoroughly of any residue and wiping with acetone then after taping I put it back on the hot plate for a bit then use a lot of clamps. Now and then I still have some lifts. Some have recommended glue. To be fair to none who wants to open it again it seems glues might be problematic.
dave bridenbaugh tarafından
@dave bridenbaugh tesa tape and primer
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