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The Chevrolet Cavalier is a compact automobile produced from 1982 to 2005 by General Motors.

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stalls after engine heats to operating temp

car starts and runs fine until engine heats up to operating tempature, then it stalls, it will restart but keeps stalling until engine cools down. What can cause this?

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Unfortunately this is TYPICALLY the symptoms of compression loss. After too much wear (IE if you have defects, overheated the car, neglected oil changes, bad combustion over time etc etc etc) the piston rings and cylinders will not mate and seal properly causing low compression and blow-by. While cold, the ring-cylinder mate is tight, keeping the combustion gasses from blowing by and allowing the engine to run. As the engine heats up the ring-cylinder mate becomes looser so that the engine will run smoother and easier...but if there is too much wear the combustion gases will begin to blow by the ring-cylinder surfaces and will cause each stroke to lose power. Enough blow-by will eventually mean that each stroke is not powerful enough to maintain engine rotation.

To determine if it is bad rings/cylinders, go to a mechanic or go buy a compression tester (maybe Auto-Zone or other auto stores rent them?). Test the compression of each cylinder per the tool instructions and note the compression of each cylinder. From what I could find the BARE minimum compression for engines in general is 90 psi...but it may be more or less for your engine. You also typically want cylinders to be within about 10-15psi of each other.

IF it is indeed bad compression, you will have to buy new piston rings and have your cylinders re-honed...or just do a straight up engine swap (which would likely be MUCH easier)...but let us know how this test goes first!

PS- internet searches seem to turn up compression problems for later model Cavaliers

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My car would randomly quit some days run all day so would not start it was the main relay witch caused the computer to burn a spot in it from the bad connection

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The problem that happens alot is with crank position sensors. Once they heat up to operating temperature they stop work intermittently like a faulty oil pressure sensor does.(only when the sensor is failing). You will have to let your engine cool off before your crank position sensor will begin to work again. This is often misdiagnosed as ignition problems but when this sensor fails, pcm cant time spark ignition so there will be no spark.

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Yorumlar:

I'm experiencing a similar problem it's a 2001 mazda 323 bj sp20 2.0 dohc, it runs perfectly fine when it is cold has great power and as soon as it warms up to operating temperature it dramatically loses power to the point it crawls so slow it would be faster to walk, I have changed all the coils leads and spark plugs for brand new ones, checked for vacuum leaks and anything that looks out of the ordinary I have spent just over $1000 on it and now I dont know what to do any help would be much appreciated.

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Check your crank shafts position sensor clean it make sure it's not damaged and the check to see how your car doing. Just change it out if you wanna be sure but they do fail. Any codes popping up for misfire? Fuel pump could also be failing

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Thai, Will the CPS failing cause a CEL? Im having the issue stated above and no CEL

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It does sound like a fuel problem. Could be the fuel pressure regulator or vacuum valve controlling it is bad, this would allow vapor lock. So check on that. Also pull your plugs and see what they look like at the face. there is a possibility that your ignition coil is failing as well. the hotter the engine or surrounding temperature are the weaker the spark get on a bad coil. Just a start and let us know how you are progressing. Good Luck

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Its actually sounds like a very dirty throttle body, when the engine is cold and cooler, the idle air controller is allowing more air past the closed throttle body butterfly valve (throttle plate) so it runs good, but when fully warmed up the idle will suffer when this bypass valve is no longer bypassing extra air into the engine past the throttle body butterfly valve. Use a good safe cleaner and wipe the throttle body all inside as much as you can and open the throttle and clean as deep as you can and then while running a bit faster than idle spray cleaner into the other holes you may see where air will bypass the throttle plate. I believe this will cure your problem of stalling at idle.

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I agree with the crank angle sensor diagnoses. The odds are a crank sensor or an electrical connector or a wiring problem from the sensor to the ecm. You might get a random misfire code or a crank angle code. It shouldn’t be very expensive once you're sure of the problem. Good luck!

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