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Fake charging - I give up :(

Hi all

I have an iPhone 6 Plus that I’m battling with (and losing badly), that has a charging issue. The phone recognises the charger and shows the charging symbol, but the battery does not charge and battery % does not change. The amp meter shows quite an unstable amp reading constantly changing and ranging from 0.25amps to 0.6amps. When the screen goes to standby/inactive the reading drops to almost zero amps.

I have all the correct diode readings on the dock connecter. I get 3v on PP3V0 Tristar. When I connect a charger with no battery connected I get between 3.8v to 4.2v on PP_BATT_VCC. I’ve tried the board with a known good charging port and battery, unfortunately I still have the same issue.

I started with replacing Tristar/U1700 as I find this solves the issue in the vast majority of cases, however not this one sadly :(, I’ve also replaced Tigris/U1401 and Q1701, however I still have the same issue.

Here’s the interesting part, I decided to replace the MOSFET Q1403, before doing so I bridged PP_BATT_VCC & PP_VCC_MAIN (with Q1403 removed). This solved the problem, the battery charges normally and the amp meter shows a more constant 0.8amps whether the screen is active or not. I thought I’d cracked it at this point and replaced Q1403 with a new one (well from a donor board). Unfortunately the same issue came back with the replacement of Q1403.

I’m completely baffled now, any ideas anyone? I will be greatful of any thoughts as always :)

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Puan 1


Does 3utools show battery data?


Just thinking on top.of my head, but I'm just curious to know if you have concidered the PMIC?



Hi Chris, I think you're on to something! 3Utools doesn't show battery data. You've put me on the right track, after researching this a little I've now downloaded the iDevice Panic Log software, this suggests the issue maybe with the vibe driver or BATTERY_SWI line. I've now replaced U1400 but unfortunately I still have the same issue. I'm now focusing on the BATTERY_SWI line, I've noticed there is a 'Filter' on this line FL2511, however the strange thing is I don't get continuity across this but I also don't on a known good board, I also get the same diode readings 0.595 & 0.495 on each side of the 'filter' which is the same as a known good board, but not continuity. I've seen some fixes using jumpers and resistors under Tigris?


@innovatrix Hi, thanks for your input, I haven't considered PMIC so far, but now I seem to have tried everything maybe it could be something to do with PMIC. I really don't think I'm minded to replace PMIC to find out, as it's not really worth the repair.


@imicrosoldering My curiousity always gets the better of me in these situations, I should know when to give up from a time/value perspective lol, anyway I've now gone ahead and tried both of the Tigris/U1401 jumper/resistor options I can find. One by running a jumper from pin G1 to a 2.2k resistor, connecting the other side of the resistor to ground, then a second resistor on the same jumper, connected to G1 with the other side connected to VCC main. I can't explain why I've tried this other than I seen someone do it on Youtube lol. I've tried a second jumper from FL2511 (BATTERY_SWI_CONN) to a 2.2k resistor with the other side connected to PP3V0_TRISTAR - neither of these have made any difference :o


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Whatever you do don’t touch the PMIC it cannot have anything to do with these symptoms.

We use to encounter this quite often on the 6 series and the solution was to leave Q1403 off the board. If we thought we had caused the problem during a touch IC or baseband rework we would endeavour to find the solution so the phone would be returned as it came in. But in these cases I cannot remember if there was battery data or not.

It is very rare you have to install a separate voltage divider like you have done with the two resistors.

You could check that the gate on Q1403 is receiving the same or more voltage than the source, if it isn’t the gate will not open and since you have replaced Tigris it would point to a communication problem between the CPU and Tigris possibly giving you cause to install your voltage divider.

I wouldn’t rule out the connectors as I have found that replacing them can solve the problem especially the battery connector even if the readings are okay as they can change when the connector is seated.

It doesn’t take long to replace the charge port and battery connector on the 6 it would be something you need to rule out.

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Puan 3


@imicrosoldering Hi Chris, thanks for taking the time to post your thoughts/advice. Good news! It's finally sorted. You were right, the battery connector was the issue, so frustrating as it looks absolutely fine and gives a nice click as the battery goes in. In fact the phone had been charging fine before, I've no idead how the issue suddenly developed.

It seems obvious now, something that I should have checked before, but as a check whether the battery connector could be the issue I connected the battery and checked the voltage on BATTERY_SWI - expecting to see around 2v - I was horrified and delighted at the same time to see it was 0v - meaning I could confirm the battery was indeed not connected to BATTERY_SWI properly. I was able to massage the pins in the battery connector to get a good connection, I'll now probably replace the connector. I've removed the jumpers and phone working perfectly again. I think that's what they call being trolled! Thanks again for your time and answer/solution!


I'd recommend that anyone with a similar issue, the first thing to do is connect a good battery and check the voltage of BATTERY_SWI from a point on the board to check there is around 2v showing up. This can be checked at FL2511 or C2579 :)


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