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Model A1502 / 2.4, 2.6, or 2.8 GHz dual-core Intel processor / Released October 2013

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Blown capacitor what could it be

I'm trying to work out what this capacitor is as it looks like it's blown.

Basically the laptop was restarted and I heard a electrical noise for a brief second. When plugging in the device to the charger the charging light comes on but the battery never gets fully charged as the light remains on orange.

Ive tried numerous button configurations as recommended online and nothing happens.

So my theory as that the issue is one of the capacitors named C38 33 and my intent is to replace it, but I am unsure on what type it is. Could someone help me please?

I have attached pictures of the board.

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33UF 20% 16V POLY-TANT CASED12-SM Try mouser or digikey



How did you work this out? I spent all evening yesterday looking and got no where!


I do this for a living.


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Lets backup here... Did you smell something burnt? Do you see something damaged?

I can't locate the capacitor labeled C3833 the highest listed is C3387 within the schematics and board views for your system. So, you really need to aim us to the the component which you believe is damaged so we can identify it.

Also, you posted two images of the backside of the logic board, how about the other side? The resolution is not good enough to see much.

Given the age of the system I'm more inclined to believe the battery has failed vs something within the logic board.

The other possibility given your charger never getting the battery charged (stuck on Amber) after letting it charge for a good eight hours. Your SMC comparator logic is damaged from using a knockoff charger. What I often see is the small resistors burn out.

Update (09/16/2021)

@Julian - Bingo! Chris @imicrosoldering was able to decipher what you where aiming for. Great work Chris!

To finish the answer here is the caps identifier: C7376 as you can see in the boardview

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Your zoomed in image helped in finding the needed tree in the forest!

Here’s the schematic view

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Which is how Chris ID’d the capacitors values.

Now the hard part! You’ll want to practice your soldering skills before you attempt to replace this cap your self. There is a bit of art involved in micro-soldering. Maybe you should locate someone who has the needed tools and skills and have them do it.

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Good point, there is a burnt electrical smell on the back side of the board around the area where 33 C38. If you look at the second one across in my zoomed picture, you can see that it has deformed/ exploded on the corner?

The front side of the board is fine, there are no visual issues on the front side of the board and the burnt electrical smell is far weaker on this side.

With the charger it does stay stuck on amber, but if you do ctrl shift p(I went through several key combinations based on an article), the charger will go to green for a brief second and then back to amber. Do not quote me on those keys, as I followed certain key combinations from an article which did not help.

Everything is legitimate and original.


Thank you for the update, that has helped a lot. I do have my own soldering equipment which is what I use on vehicles. Albeit I admit things on vehicles are much bigger! I assume a gas powered soldering iron is more than enough?

Also the schematic you have put up is for 5 caps and mine only has 4, is this still valid?


@Julian - You really need a proper Pencil soldering iron, those small gas irons won't offer then needed heat mass to be effective.

As for the number of caps, Your system had an extra set of pads as Apple changed things, it wasn't cost effective to alter the logic board.

Don't forget to score the answer and accept it - Thanks!


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