Ana içeriğe geç

A1708/EMC 3164 — Released June 2017, this entry-level MacBook Pro retains its traditional function keys (as opposed to the OLED Touch Bar).

563 Soru Tümünü görüntüle

The fan control system(hardware) is malfunctioning, the fan is delayed

My MacBook becomes stuck and shuts down.

Even when the Mac is hot (57°C| 70°C| 85°C| 90°C), it becomes stuck or shuts down, and the fan activates with a delay; the fan then begins to run at a low speed; and the fan continues to run at a low speed.

If I set the user to auto login, it works with the MAC's Fan Control set to 4000RPM, because the Mac cools down and then works with Safari and other apps and tasks.

Mac's Fan Controler is acceptable, but it does not work properly with the auto option; however, it works well with custom rpm.

My Mac's fan controller is set to auto and/or 3000 / 4000 / full blast.

Concerning my MPB:

- MacBook Pro (13", 2017, Two puertos Thunderbolt 3)

- Intercore I5

- MacOS Catalina 10.15.7 The Apple Hadware diagnostic test has been passed: There was no problem found.

During the recovery boot and diagnostic hardware test, the Mac becomes hot (57°C| 70°C| 85°C| 90°C), the Mac becomes stuck or shuts down, and the fan activates with a delay.

Update:

After reading @danj answer, this is what I've done:

1- Clean the fan blades (I had already checked them and they are not obstructed or dusty)

2- Apply thermal paste to the CPU only on the chip, a thin layer (the thermal paste does not completely convince me since it has a thermal conductivity of 0.7W/MK, it is of the Sabo brand and it is composed of silicone and metallic oxide)

3-I bought the TG Pro license.

Despite all this, I cannot work with confidence since the moment the temperature exceeds the threshold of 70 -80 degrees Celsius for a fews seconds or one minute the Mac shuts down.

I rule out the idea that it is a MacOS problem since in the boot manager, I have left it for a few minutes and it turns off, I am only able to keep it on with the TG Pro application, with the Auto Boost option well configured (to the extreme).

The fan(s) turn off by the hardware if the temperatures are low enough, and takes a long time to turn on when the temperature starts to rise, I have taken extreme measures and completely disabled the system, and assigning the work to Auto Boost:

Here the configuration of TG Pro Auto Boost:

Block Image

Sensor temperature recorded by TG Pro app:

Block Image

I am testing CPU load with Endurance App:

By stressing a CPU core (2 or more cores, the collapse is extremely fast) I have managed to keep it on for at least 13 minutes, after which it can overheat and shut down, TG Pro does what it can to keep the Fan at full blast.

Block Image

I have two hypotheses:

1- The heatsink is not being able to cool the CPU in time, either because of the quality of the thermal paste, or because the aluminum heatsink is damaged.

2- The hardware shutdown of the fan is taking too much control of the fan and is reacting late (but I discard this hypothesis because TG Pro is able to make the fan run based on the Auto Boost rules)

The TG Pro diagnostic indicates that everything is fine, as does the Apple Hardware Test.

Block Image

Post Data: While I was writing this message, I had several safari tabs open, as well as vscode. Everything was fine until I installed Google Chrome. I hadn't even opened it - I just copied it to the applications folder. In the process of copying, my mac collapsed and turned off.

Update 07/01/2022:

Please note @danj

CoconutBatery - battery health:

Block Image

@danj temperature with power adapter connected

Block Image

Block Image

@danj please see this update:

TG Pro capture:

Block Image

Block Image

coconutBattery capture:

Block Image

Block Image

Also, I noticed that the heatsink contact on the logic board is separated from the motherboard; please see the images in the pink-colored area:

Block Image

Block Image

Block Image

Block Image

I could feel a sudden temperature increase in an inductor R22 in the area of the CPU, which could be hotter than the CPU itself.

Block Image

Block Image

The yellow zone, but especially the red zone within the yellow zone.

To transfer hot temperatures to the Bottom Base Cover Panel, I installed a 12 W/MK thermal pad in the heatsink and the R22 inductor near the CPU as a precaution.

Bu soruyu yanıtla Ben de bu sorunu yaşıyorum

Bu iyi bir soru mu?

Puan 0

1 Yorum:

The two pads which press on the heat sink are EMI pads (pink circled). They are needed and you must use the special conductive foam.

Let's not try to re-engineer Apples efforts. Covering the inductor with thermal pad is not needed and in fact can cause problems!

Think of it this way... We insulate our homes to prevent the heat loss in the winter but! It can also help in preventing the summer heat from wicking way out AC cooled air inside too!

I don't see any issues with your update. TG Pro is well within the normal range. I would reset the high water marks and see if things get bad again.

I think you need to visit someone local as I would need to see the system to see for my self what is happening to figure out what the root issue is.

tarafından

Yorum Ekle

1 Cevap

Filtre ölçütü:

I would look at getting a better thermal monitoring and fan control app like TG Pro I find its the best out there! Install it and disable/remove MacFanControl so you don't interfere with TG Pro. Post a screen snapshot of the main window making sure you capture all of the sensors (may need to take a second snapshot fo the ones at the bottom). Adding images to an existing question

Even still this sounds like you need to do a bit more!

Have you cleaned the fan blades as well as the fin area of the heat sink so the heat is truly being pushed out?

Also you might want to clean the old thermal paste and apply a fresh coat. Do be careful! Use the correct paste (TIM) as well as don't over do it! I often find messed up systems because people forget the purpose of the TIM is strictly the interface of the silicon chip (black part) and the heat sink. They just think if I triple or more the amount would be better Nope! Worse!

Little is the key here! Just enough, not more than what is needed to cover the chip with a very thin coat.

Bu yanıt yardımcı oldu mu?

Puan 0

6 Yorum:

Hi @danj,

I've been following your advice, and it's improved significantly, but the problem still persists.

This is what I've done:

1- Clean the fan blades (I had already checked them and they are not obstructed or dusty)

2- Apply thermal paste to the CPU only on the chip, a thin layer (the thermal paste does not completely convince me since it has a thermal conductivity of 0.7W/MK, it is of the Sabo brand and it is composed of silicone and metallic oxide)

3-I bought the TG Pro license.

Despite all this, I cannot work with confidence since the moment the temperature exceeds the threshold of 70 -80 degrees Celsius for a fews seconds or one minute the Mac shuts down.

I rule out the idea that it is a MacOS problem since in the boot manager, I have left it for a few minutes and it turns off, I am only able to keep it on with the TG Pro application, with the Auto Boost option configured (to the extreme).

tarafından

@mandyly - OK, TG Pro shows me a weakness in moving the heat out! Note the high water lines on the CPU and what the Heatpipe Outgoing Air outputs. I fear the heatsink has lost its cooling fluid MacBook Pro 13" Retina (Function Keys, Late 2016-2017) Heat Sink

Let's also check the battery, install this gem of an app! CoconutBattery take a snapshot of the apps main window and post it here for us to see.

tarafından

I appreciate your suggestion, I have updated question with battery health results. This supports my presumptions. Since the temperature of the heatpipe's exhaust air does not rise, it is clear that there is an issue since, according to TG Pro, the heatpipe is not properly cooling the CPU(Heatpipe outgoing air max recorded temperature is 32°C, and CPU recorded max temperature of 68°C ~70°C ). right @danj?

tarafından

@mandyly - Yup! Need new heat sink! MacBook Pro 13" Retina (Function Keys, Late 2016-2017) Heat Sink Make sure to clean yours and the replacement and you might want to make a clear marking on one so you can tell the two apart! With both clean get a good micro-scale that can measure the weight difference between the two. I think you'll find one is lighter than the other but just slightly! That would be the loss of the fluid inside. You might even see a pin hole if you look carefully.

tarafından

Hello, @danj. The previous shutdown caused the Mac OS to crash, so I replaced the heatsink and used thermal grizzly. Despite this, I was overheating and shutting down in recovery mode; with the new heatsink, the time to shutdown is longer, but the heatsink gets too hot; however, the fan turns on after the Mac is turned off with a delay.

tarafından

1 tane daha yorum göster

Yorum Ekle

Yanıtını ekle

Mandy Lynn sonsuza kadar minnettar olacak.
İstatistikleri Görüntüle:

Son 24 Saat: 0

Son 7 gün: 5

Son 30 gün: 21

Her zaman: 586