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The March 2015 update of Apple's 13" MacBook Pro Retina Display, model A1502, features fifth-generation Intel Core i5 and i7 processors and introduces the Force Touch trackpad.

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Logic board, SSD, battery 'knock' and staingate

Hi,

I am contemplating upgrading my early 2015 MBP 13" (2.7 Ghz, 8 GB RAM, 256 GB original SSD) in the following ways. Currently, it works fine, albeit a bit on the slow side, but I'd like to futureproof it before used parts (the logic board in this case) become even harder to find. I've done the usual things to keep it running smoothly (updates on time, clearing out the clutter etc). Currently weighing up if the upgrades are worth it.

  1. Swapping the logic board for a 3.1 Ghz 16 GB RAM version. Core clock speed doesn't seem to make that much of a difference to the GeekBench scores but doubling the RAM should improve day-to-day usage. I haven't been able to find numbers to back this up though.
  2. Swapping the SSD for a OWC Auro Pro X2 2TB. I've seen the I/O speeds referenced as twice as fast as the original but I haven't been able to find numbers for the original Apple SSD.

Has anyone done the above, ideally together, and what was your verdict?

Other things I'd like to fix:

  1. Battery 'knock' - I had the battery replaced a few years ago and I think it might be moving slightly inside the case. Anyone else encountered this?
  2. Staingate - post removal, does anyone have any screen protector recommendations?

Thanks!

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I’m assuming your system presently has 8GB so yes 16GB is better, but only if you are working with either large projects or like to have multiple things open at once. Otherwise 8GB is fine.

But, there is also linkage to your SSD here! When your system needs more RAM space it will leverage the SSD as Virtual RAM. So when you have little space left on it, it will bog down. Which is one reason to leave at least a quarter of the SSD unused.

Apple used a few different vendors for their SSDs as such you would need find the maker and model as well as size to search for it in some of the performance sites.

I personally use OWCs in my 2015 MacBook Pros and they are better than the Apple stock SSD as well as offer a larger size.

You do want to secure your battery, Apples use of adhesive can make things harder as the old adhesive still on the case often interferes with the fresh. I also don’t like the thin adhesive supplied as it doesn’t grab all that well either. I use the 3M Quick Release tapes (large ones) or the industrial roll version. Why I prefer it is it’s a bit thicker having a foam core and if you place it so a bit sticks out it makes replacing the battery the next time much easier! As you can just pull on them to release.

Even still you need to clean the surface and the quality of the isopropyl alcohol can effect the adhesion you want reagent quality which is the cleanest.

Why do you think you need any screen protector? The coatings was to reduce the glare not offer protection.

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Yes, current system has 8 GB RAM. I'm leaning towards starting with the SSD upgrade as my current 256 GB SSD hovers around half full, and I do have to keep a close eye on my usage to prevent it filling up.

For the battery knock, I'm guessing your advice would involve removing the current battery, cleaning off the residual adhesive on the battery/case and replacing the adhesive with the tape? Do you have the part number for the tape? Unfortunately, the ifixit adhesive remover isn't for sale separately, so would acetone/IPA do?

An alternative might be to stick foam tape strips on top of the battery to fill in the gap between the battery and the lower case. This would avoid removing the battery entirely but I'm not sure if it's recommended.

Some screen protectors purport to be anti-glare, so it would more for that property rather than the protection.

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@irwinselvam - After cleaning with a 50/50 mix of Acetone and Isopropyl alcohol clean all of the old adhesive off. Then just grab the XL Command Adhesive Strips I would use two on the each of the center cells so after you would lift the side cells the pulls tabs would be accessible (evenly spaced and in as deep as you can so the pull is just exposed). Then for the larger side cells two accessible from the front edge, and lastly one strip for the smaller end cells centered from the front edge. That’s ten strips! I wouldn’t use anything else.

The issue I have with these screen protectors they are plastic and are thick which then messes up your hinges as the gap is not designed for it. Think of it this way you have a rare book and you leave a pencil in the book to hold your place, your kid kindly closes the book what then happened to the book? You just killed it!

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I have a 2.9 GHz logic board from the 2015 13" MBP, just sitting in my basement. I might put it up to sale soon, but otherwise, iFixit sells the logic boards on the site, but they are quite expensive (Especially the 3.1, 16GB versions). Are you planning on using an adapter with your SSD, or one made for an Apple Mac? Both work fine, just make sure it is for the correct year, because Apple made some different SSD keys over the years.

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