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A professional 35mm film SLR released by Pentax in 1980.

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pentax lx light meter won't shut off

Hi everyone,

I recently purchased a Pentax LX from Japan and had already spent a considerable amount to fix the stuck mirror issue. However, upon receiving the camera, I discovered another problem: the light meter won't shut off. This is quite frustrating, as I have to remove the battery every time I'm not using the camera.

After some research, I found that this issue is quite common with the Pentax LX and that many repair technicians consider it unfixable due to the problem usually residing within the circuitry or main board.

Therefore, I came up with an idea: since the positive and negative terminals of the LX battery compartment are located within the camera body, and the battery door only serves to cover the battery, I was wondering if it would be possible to 3D print a battery door with a built-in switch. As shown in my rough sketch， pressing the button would push the battery up to contact the internal terminals, thus powering the camera. When not in use, pressing the button again would lower the battery, disconnecting it from the terminals.

My main challenges are that I lack experience in 3D modeling and cannot accurately measure the thread depth and diameter of the LX battery door. I believe the design of the switch's spring mechanism can be handled by professionals.

Therefore, I would greatly appreciate any suggestions or advice from the community. Has anyone attempted something similar or have any insights on how to proceed? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance

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There is a contact underneath the mirror box that turns the meter (and power to the rest of the camera) on and off. The continuity can be tested between the red and blue wires.

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It's possible that this contact is not opening properly when the shutter button is released. There are two levers that push the switch open using small bias springs. If the lever pivots are dirty, they may not push with enough force. Unfortunately, significant disassembly is required to access the switch. The operation of the switch can be adjusted by bending the contacts but disassembling and cleaning the levers is also a good idea.

Edit: There is a way to get limited access to the switch without major disassembly.

  1. Remove the bottom plate
  2. Remove the tripod mount
  3. Partially wind the camera until the mirror charge lever is at its lowest position
  4. Unhook the magnet lever

Now you should be able to at least test the continuity of the power switch contact. You can also use some tweezers to make adjustments to the when it is in and out of contact. Only a small change is needed.

Shorts in the PCB are also possible but bad switch contacts are more common.

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