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Logic board replacement - From 2.5 to 2.4


The logic board on my 134 MacBook Pro is dead.

So I'm wondering if the 2.4 A1260 logic board would fit instead of my 2.5 logic board.

Thanks in advance!

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Here are the challenges with such a swap:

  • The I/O board is a different model number, as printed on the board. They might be compatible, but when routing power to the entire machine, it's a bit of a scary proposition. Your call.
  • Same with the thermal sensors: different model number. They may be compatible, but thermal sensors can prevent a machine from booting, so it's a bit unknown.
  • Same with the ambient light sensor and battery cable: different model number on board/cable, but may be compatible.
  • Left I/O cable and superdrive cable have a different model number printed on them, but may be compatible.

I'm wary of the I/O board, but haven't tested it, and the other parts are a bit of a toss-up on actual compatibility. As far as Apple machines go, these two are more compatible than most others.

I hope this helps! If you decide to go for it, please let us know the result!

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I just had my Logic board die (ie. display) Turns out Apple has extended a "Quality" program for this model (the 2.4GHz board/A1226). Check with apple first...''

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logic board seems dead i.e. steady mag safe light on disk spinning , black (dead ) screen ,pram won't reset , power management wont reset either . Vidia chip has a bad connection ! it needs heating up to reflow the pins connecting it to the logic board . check posts on this subject . It is a bit of a long shot but IT CAN BE FIXED (i have managed to do it ). i also let it heat up and soak tested it for 24 hrs after the baking trick ,blow torch (small iroda 50-70 watt Maplins )+clamping it down when as hot as possible. the only question is reliability !!It has lasted 3 months so far, and that is being thrashed non stop until red hot over and over again . It is still a bit of a guessing game (not like the old days of soldering a cct board with a dry joint ) with no cct or wiring diagrams . i would like to know the details of the electrical connections as in many cases of a 'dry joint' if you are not a 100% sure of which pin/connector that has caused the problem , one cannot be sure its fixed as it might be a case of just touching the right point and not soldered properly then breaks down when you are doing a presentation or working in a tight spot under pressure. i suggest you do all the styles available on ifixit (top site). cover in a quilt and flip over with the supply connected until red hot ! then leave it to cool down , reset power management (hold down power button with batt removed for 10sec +)and reset pram (hold down power button with batt fully charged until mag safe light flashes) you will hear a tone . the screen will light up .then the usual disk utility repair (permissions etc ) and its up to time to see if it lasts . If not repeat the procedure and it will finally hold out (mine has for 3months so far ).good luck it will work !

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