Factory dampers should be checked after 50,000 miles to see if they need to be replaced. Whenever working on suspension components you should keep one side completely assembled as a reference.

  1. Jack up the front of the car and place it on jack stands.
    • Jack up the front of the car and place it on jack stands.

      • Never work on or underneath a car that is only supported by a jack. The jack may slip or fail, resulting in serious injury or even death.

    • Use an impact wrench or tire iron to remove the five 19 mm lug nuts from the front wheel.

    • Pull the front wheel off the wheel lugs and set it aside.

    We might need to re-arrange this.

    we jacked the car up and then cheated and used a impact gun

    if you don't have an impact gun you'll have to do it on the ground

    Scott Dingle - Yanıt

  2. Use a socket wrench or impact gun to remove the 15 mm nut on the front sway bar endlink.
    • Use a socket wrench or impact gun to remove the 15 mm nut on the front sway bar endlink.

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    • The front brake lines are attached to the body by a small bracket near the strut.

    • Grab the front edge of the bracket with a pair of locking pliers.

      • Without the locking pliers to hold the bracket in place, it may twist back and forth. This twisting could fracture the rigid brake lines.

    • Remove the 12 mm bolt that holds the bracket in place with a socket wrench.

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    • Use a socket wrench or impact gun to remove the 19 mm tie rod end nut.

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    • Place a tie rod end puller over the exposed threads of the tie rod end and turn the puller with a socket wrench to push the tie rod end out of the steering knuckle.

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    • The ball joint is held to the control arm by three 18 mm bolts.

    • Remove the bottom two nuts with a breaker bar or long wrench.

    • Place a breaker bar over the gold nut on the bottom of the control arm.

      • The breaker bar alone will not be able to loosen the nut, since the bolt is free to rotate.

    • Place an 18 mm box end wrench over the bolt on top of the control arm.

    • Turn the breaker bar and the wrench in their respective counterclockwise directions to loosen and remove the third ball joint-to-control arm bolt.

    I have just finished replacing the shocks and mount. Instead of above, I found it convenient to remove the 4 bolts holding the ball joint plate to the strut pole. Don't forget to replace the old bolts with new OR at least use LocTite if you want to re-use the old bolts. DO NOT use a lot of the LocTIte, only a couple of drops, one on each side of the bolt. Use a big trolley jack and make it a good one. See the one in Step 9 - this is best for the job. If you can get the job done in a DIY garage then do it there. Consider the cost as a learning fee for yourself.

    Mick O'Connor - Yanıt

    • Place a jack underneath the ball joint to support it once you remove the 3 ball joint-to-control arm bolts.

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    • Open the hood and locate the three strut mounting bolts on the strut tower.

    • Make an alignment mark on the shoe at the dimple in the top of the strut tower before removing the mounting nuts.

    • Use a ratcheting socket wrench or impact wrench with a 13 mm deep socket to remove the three nuts.

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    • Slowly lower the jack and guide the strut assembly down and out of the car.

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    • Place spring compressors on opposite sides of the spring.

      • Make sure you are using spring compressors that are meant for MacPherson struts. Internal-type spring compressors will not work.

    • Alternate tightening the spring compressors evenly until you are able to move the entire spring up and down.

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    • Use an impact wrench to remove the 24 mm nut at the top of the strut assembly.

    • Remove the strut mount from the strut assembly.

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    • Remove the upper spring seat and pull the spring off the strut assembly.

    • If you are installing new springs you will need to remove the spring compressors. Loosen each spring compressor evenly, alternating from side to side until they are off the spring completely.

      • When installing new springs you will need to compress them with the spring compressors before placing them on the strut assembly.

    • If you are reinstalling the same springs you may keep the compressors in place until it is time to reassemble the suspension.

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    • Remove the rubber bump stop from the strut assembly.

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    • Use a large adjustable wrench or pair of groove joint pliers to remove the strut gland nut.

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    • Grab the top of the strut and pull it out of the strut assembly.

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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

10 başka kişi bu kılavuzu tamamladı.

David Hodson

Üyelik tarihi: 13-04-2010

132.528 İtibar

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6 Yorum

This is so helpful. When I did this for the first time a while back, it took me and a buddy almost 9 hours to complete it. Now that I'm changing the other side, I decided to see if there were any guides online and WOW THIS IS SO HELPFUL. YOU ARE AMAZING FOR DOING THIS!!!

Parth Doshi - Yanıt

You note years 86-93. I have an 84 244 Turbo that I want to swap front strut assembly from 90 240. Will this work?

jerrod.slaughter - Yanıt

Just finished putting new struts and springs on 1990 Volvo 240 wagon. Your pictures and details were very helpful. It would be great if the breaklines could be removed from the strut boot.

Eric Zeko - Yanıt

thanks for the help you been most helpfull

Peter Cameron - Yanıt

IF you remove the brake caliper and disc it makes the strut assembly so much lighter and easier to handle.

Jo Black - Yanıt

Step 14 (removing the strut gland nut) was literally impossible for me. I live in an area with long winters and salted roads. All of the bolts and nuts gave me !&&*, but that one in particular was so rusted together that days of penetrating oil followed by torch heating had no effect. I just replaced the springs and gave up on the struts. This took me days to complete. I’d recommend paying a mechanic rather than attempting this if you live in a rusty area.

Steve Northup - Yanıt

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