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We recovered a non-functioning label printer from a waste electrical bin. The printer was operating correctly except that the ribbon was not spooling correctly, and nothing would print.
This is a guide to repairing the fault that is mentioned by several people in an answers thread - Ribbon doesn't move...
The accepted answer applies to one type of fault, but it is clear that the fault documented below is a common failure mode too, so hopefully, this will be useful.
Diagnosis
As this is a moderately fiddly task we want to be sure it is the correct fault.
This guide is appropriate if, with the device face down you can open the cartridge door and feel little or no resistance.
Furthermore, as you open and close the door, the print head should be lifted to engage the ribbon. If the spring tensioner is detached then there will be no movement.
Note: I'll repeat myself later, this device has a habit of spewing small parts out if you are not careful. Take your time, take photos, make notes.
This guide builds upon an earlier guide to remove the keyboard. You only need to follow the first 5 steps of that guide, there is no need to separate out the rubber parts.
Neye ihtiyacın var
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We need to remove the main circuit board. This needs to be approached with care.
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The first photo indicates the three obvious screws. These would be easy to remove.
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However, there is a another screw beneath the screen.
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With a plastic spudger gently prise the screen up at the top edge, it is held in place by two foam sticky pads and tape. You may find a small amount of gentle heat will help release the glue, but be very careful to neither crack the screen nor damage the ribbon connector.
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with the screen flipped forward onto the keyboard PCB, you can now remove the hidden screw indicated in the second photo.
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You should now have enough movement in the PCB to remove the remaining screws in the plastic body beneath (see next step for details)
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Take lots of photos!
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I called this the frame because it literally holds everything in place. As you lift this there are a number of small parts that will try to escape/move/hide. You have been warned.
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Before we get there, we need to remove 3 more screws.
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one is hidden almost centrally to the main body, but there should be enough length in the ribbon cable to allow access. If you can't get to it, try releasing the power port (shown floating free in the photo) and you ought to be fine.
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Another is on the left hand edge and was previously concealed by the PCB.
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The last one is down the bottom end near the batteries and should pose no problems at all.
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Now, carefully lift the frame and PCB away. In the photos you can see a blue circled wheel, this is one example of a component that is supported by the frame we are removing, make a note of thing like the spring clip.
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If you are lucky, this part may be skipped.
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As you lift the frame you may fine that the stainless steel rods that act as axles/pivots to the levers and cogs come with it. Take note, you need to reverse this late, and the jigsaw puzzle is easier if you have a reference.
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You will need to pay careful attention to the pieces, in particular the hooked "cam follower" lever (green rectangle) which you'll need to ensure is correctly positioned once the spring (see next step) has been reattached.
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Once you can get to the small lever shown with the yellow circle, you are ready to start the actual repair.
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The source of our problem lies in the two yellow highlights.
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The rectangle highlights the underside of the hinge well of the ribbon cover door. You should be able to see a small spring through the hole.
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That spring should be attached through the "eye" highlighted by the yellow circle. Unfortunately this seems to wear through with friction and causes our fault.
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Repair the split as best you can. I have been able to get away with a drop of super-glue; you may find that you need to melt it together if the split is slightly larger.
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We need to retrieve the spring. Once again, this is simple but don't rush or you'll scatter more parts everywhere.
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I found it easiest to remove the spring from the door. This does involve flipping over the shell, hence the additional warning to watch for loose parts.
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The door hinge is a small plastic nub in the shell that locates into a large hole in the door (see red circle), a little leverage with a spudge should free it.
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The sprinf is retained by a sturdy stainless pin (Shame that the other end was not so well thought out.) poke the end of the pin free enough to slide the spring loose.
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You can now attach the spring to the repaired lever by hooking the open spring end through.
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Finally, you need to offer the spring back through through the hole in the case and with a pair of tweezers or a hooked spudger, pull it back onto the metal pin
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push the pin back home to lock it all in place.
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slot the cover back over the hinge nub.
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While to reassemble your device, you follow these instructions in reverse order, it is important to note that you should check that the mechanical parts are properly aligned with each step.
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In particular the "cam follower" lever, it placed under tension when the cartridge door is closed and the spring is taught. this causes the print head to lift. It was the lack of lift on the print head that was failing us before.
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With luck you are now ready to print again.
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Following these steps in reverse, using all the photos that you took, (you did take them right?) to get the moving parts in the right places, you should be able to reassemble the device relatively easily. A final check is similar to the initial diagnosis. Open and close the cartridge door and you should see the print head lift and fall if the spring is doing the intended job.
Following these steps in reverse, using all the photos that you took, (you did take them right?) to get the moving parts in the right places, you should be able to reassemble the device relatively easily. A final check is similar to the initial diagnosis. Open and close the cartridge door and you should see the print head lift and fall if the spring is doing the intended job.
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