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Remove the back panel by pulling away with one hand and the front secured in the other hand.
Beware of right and left triggers, the right and left panels, and the power switch falling off as the back panel is removed.
Remove left and right triggers by lifting and pulling them away from the system.
Do the same for side panels.
For finicky or jammed triggers only. Adjust and correct triggers and reassemble. Most jammed triggers are caused by buttons misplaced or jammed in its enclosure.
Pull circuit board away from the front panel by pulling up at the bottom of the circuit board, keeping the top ribbon still connected.
Beware not to damage the top ribbon by pulling up gently.
Use a spudger/tweezers/fingernail to unlatch the LCD ribbon port by pulling the grey tabs on the sides upwards (towards the top edge of the PCB).
Once the LCD ribbon port has been unlatched, the LCD ribbon should very easily slide out and can be removed with zero force using fingers or tweezers.
Use the spudger to lift the screen from the front panel. Place the spudger in the space directly left of the D-pad.
The screen and the front panel is connected by a black tape that could rip if not removed carefully.
You can use an iOpener or a hair dryer on the other side of the front panel in order to soften the black tape.
Cut the plastic from the shell, aligned with red markers.
Use a cutter to cut the big pieces of plastic.
Use the cutter again to cut some plastic from the shell. This is required for the LCD to fit properly.
Only cut the plastic that sticks out! It's possible that the red markers are not 100% accurate.
First things first, there are 2 GBA models. 32 pin motherboards and 40 pin motherboards, before you order anything, make sure which model you have. The GBA's starting with a 0 is a 40 pin, if it start with a 1 it's a 32 pin. Please advise Google if you are not sure which model you have.
Inspect if everything is cut and if everything is flat. If it looks good, then proceed!
Don't worry about the front. Most of the times the front is still good, the cutting at the back side won't be visible when everything is in. But please check before you proceed.
Test if the screen sits flush.
Make sure that the screen fits good. There is not a lot of space in the shell. If you proceed anyway, you could damage the screen. Cut some more plastic if needed.
Now take the plastic foil from the screen.
Put the screen in the shell.
You can attach some double sided tape in the corners of the screen to make it fit easier (make sure it's thin) it's
not required. Remember not to touch the screen when the plastic security foil is removed.
Now it's a good time to take the adapter with you!
Plug the LCD cable in the ZIF socket as displayed in the 2nd picture.
Fold the LCD cable in the "Z" form again and place the adapter on the screen as displayed in the 3rd picture.
Usually there is tape on the bracket, but if not, just place some anti-electrical tape to secure it.
Don't forget to fold the cable in the "Z" form.
Place the motherboard in.
WHEN the motherboard is at place, then proceed.
Put the screws back in, highlighted in red.
Some models have a third screw.
The 2nd picture shows when everything is in place with the screws in.
Open the ZIF connector again and put the cable back in.
If the cable won't fit, please check your adapter and repeat step 21.
Close the ZIF connector with the LCD ribbon cable in. Make sure the red cable from the adapter is at it's place as shown in the 2nd picture.
The 3rd picture shows how it needs to be.
This is the pin you need! It's the
LEFT leg of DA1 !
Put tape on the other IC's. Just to prevent bridges and just to be sure that you have the correct pin.
Solder the red cable to the
LEFT leg of DA1.
Route the cable as shown in picture 1.
The 2nd picture shows when it's all good and finished.
Now place the bumpers and the L/R buttons (if not done earlier). Don't forget to place the on/off button back too!
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