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  1. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    : step 1, image 1 of 3 : step 1, image 2 of 3 : step 1, image 3 of 3
    • Remove the back battery cover by pinching down on the tab and pulling outward.

  2. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    : step 2, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the six back panel screws using a Y1 screw driver.

  3. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    : step 3, image 1 of 1
    • Remove bottom back panel screw with a Phillips #1 screw driver.

  4. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    : step 4, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the back panel by pulling away with one hand and the front secured in the other hand.

    • Beware of right and left triggers, the right and left panels, and the power switch falling off as the back panel is removed.

  5. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    : step 5, image 1 of 2 : step 5, image 2 of 2
    • Remove left and right triggers by lifting and pulling them away from the system.

    • Do the same for side panels.

    • For finicky or jammed triggers only. Adjust and correct triggers and reassemble. Most jammed triggers are caused by buttons misplaced or jammed in its enclosure.

  6. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    : step 6, image 1 of 2 : step 6, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the gray On/Off Switch by pulling up and away from the unit. Replace with another switch if necessary.

  7. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    : step 7, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the three screws on the circuit board with a Phillips #1 screw driver.

    • The last screw on the right is not included on some Game Boy Advance systems.

  8. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    : step 8, image 1 of 2 : step 8, image 2 of 2
    • Pull circuit board away from the front panel by pulling up at the bottom of the circuit board, keeping the top ribbon still connected.

    • Beware not to damage the top ribbon by pulling up gently.

  9. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    : step 9, image 1 of 3 : step 9, image 2 of 3 : step 9, image 3 of 3
    • Remove the rubber button pads from their pockets.

    • Remove the plastic buttons and the D-pad from beneath the rubber pads with tweezers or by hand.

  10. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    : step 10, image 1 of 3 : step 10, image 2 of 3 : step 10, image 3 of 3
    • Use a spudger/tweezers/fingernail to unlatch the LCD ribbon port by pulling the grey tabs on the sides upwards (towards the top edge of the PCB).

    • Once the LCD ribbon port has been unlatched, the LCD ribbon should very easily slide out and can be removed with zero force using fingers or tweezers.

    Guide does not indicate that the ribbon cable port should be UNLATCHED before attempting to remove the ribbon cable, I strongly suggest revising this as someone unfamiliar with these style of ports may assume that the ribbon cable is a compression fit and just needs to be "pulled" free of the port.

    This is a terrible idea that will potentially result in tearing the ribbon! Please consider revising guide to add a step to indicate the proper method/detail for unlatching the LCD ribbon port! Thanks :)

    Ben Steel - Yanıt

  11. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    : step 11, image 1 of 3 : step 11, image 2 of 3 : step 11, image 3 of 3
    • Use the spudger to lift the screen from the front panel. Place the spudger in the space directly left of the D-pad.

    • The screen and the front panel is connected by a black tape that could rip if not removed carefully.

    • You can use an iOpener or a hair dryer on the other side of the front panel in order to soften the black tape.

    This is a BAD place to pry on a functioning LCD. I used this exact method, slowly and carefully, and my LCD shattered.

    Instead, remove the lens (it’s worth it to sacrifice the lens adhesive to save your LCD), and gently and slowly press with a gloved thumb on a corner to push it through from the front of the Game Boy. Let the adhesive release itself, don’t force it. If the room is super quiet, you should be able to hear a faint peeling sound, even if you can’t see anything moving. That means you’re doing it right; just wait and it will release.

    trevorsklar - Yanıt

    Actually you can just pry under the ribbon cable. The LCD has a metal frame there that allowed me to slowly and carefully pry from that point without (re)breaking my LCD.

    trevorsklar - Yanıt

  12. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    : step 12, image 1 of 1
    • Use the tweezers to remove the black tape if needed.

  13. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    : step 13, image 1 of 3 : step 13, image 2 of 3 : step 13, image 3 of 3
    • Cut the plastic from the shell, aligned with red markers.

    • Use a cutter to cut the big pieces of plastic.

    • Use the cutter again to cut some plastic from the shell. This is required for the LCD to fit properly.

    • Only cut the plastic that sticks out! It's possible that the red markers are not 100% accurate.

    • First things first, there are 2 GBA models. 32 pin motherboards and 40 pin motherboards, before you order anything, make sure which model you have. The GBA's starting with a 0 is a 40 pin, if it start with a 1 it's a 32 pin. Please advise Google if you are not sure which model you have.

  14. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    : step 14, image 1 of 3 : step 14, image 2 of 3 : step 14, image 3 of 3
    • Use a knife or a flathead screwdriver to flatten it. Make it as flat as possible and take all the plastic away.

    • Do this for all sides which you have cut before.

  15. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    : step 15, image 1 of 3 : step 15, image 2 of 3 : step 15, image 3 of 3
    • Inspect if everything is cut and if everything is flat. If it looks good, then proceed!

    • Don't worry about the front. Most of the times the front is still good, the cutting at the back side won't be visible when everything is in. But please check before you proceed.

    • Test if the screen sits flush.

    • Make sure that the screen fits good. There is not a lot of space in the shell. If you proceed anyway, you could damage the screen. Cut some more plastic if needed.

  16. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    : step 16, image 1 of 2 : step 16, image 2 of 2
    • Place a new lens in the shell.

    • It should look like the 2nd picture. It should be attached with the tape that's already on the lens. Make sure that the lens is clean and not damaged!

  17. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    : step 17, image 1 of 2 : step 17, image 2 of 2
    • Now take the plastic foil from the screen.

    • Put the screen in the shell.

    • You can attach some double sided tape in the corners of the screen to make it fit easier (make sure it's thin) it's not required. Remember not to touch the screen when the plastic security foil is removed.

  18. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    : step 18, image 1 of 3 : step 18, image 2 of 3 : step 18, image 3 of 3
    • Place the buttons in the shell.

    • Place the start/select rubber in the shell.

  19. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    : step 19, image 1 of 2 : step 19, image 2 of 2
    • Put the rubbers in.

    • You can also place the L/R buttons in already, but it won't be a problem to do this later if you want.

  20. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    : step 20, image 1 of 2 : step 20, image 2 of 2
    • Fold the LCD cable in a "Z" form. The cable is too long, this needs to be done, otherwise it won't fit.

  21. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    : step 21, image 1 of 3 : step 21, image 2 of 3 : step 21, image 3 of 3
    • Now it's a good time to take the adapter with you!

    • Plug the LCD cable in the ZIF socket as displayed in the 2nd picture.

    • Fold the LCD cable in the "Z" form again and place the adapter on the screen as displayed in the 3rd picture.

  22. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    : step 22, image 1 of 2 : step 22, image 2 of 2
    • Usually there is tape on the bracket, but if not, just place some anti-electrical tape to secure it.

    • Don't forget to fold the cable in the "Z" form.

  23. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    : step 23, image 1 of 2 : step 23, image 2 of 2
    • Place the motherboard in. WHEN the motherboard is at place, then proceed.

    • Put the screws back in, highlighted in red.

    • Some models have a third screw.

    • The 2nd picture shows when everything is in place with the screws in.

  24. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    : step 24, image 1 of 3 : step 24, image 2 of 3 : step 24, image 3 of 3
    • Open the ZIF connector again and put the cable back in.

    • If the cable won't fit, please check your adapter and repeat step 21.

    • Close the ZIF connector with the LCD ribbon cable in. Make sure the red cable from the adapter is at it's place as shown in the 2nd picture.

    • The 3rd picture shows how it needs to be.

  25. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    : step 25, image 1 of 3 : step 25, image 2 of 3 : step 25, image 3 of 3
    • This is the pin you need! It's the LEFT leg of DA1 !

    • Put tape on the other IC's. Just to prevent bridges and just to be sure that you have the correct pin.

    • Solder the red cable to the LEFT leg of DA1.

  26. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    : step 26, image 1 of 3 : step 26, image 2 of 3 : step 26, image 3 of 3
    • Route the cable as shown in picture 1.

    • The 2nd picture shows when it's all good and finished.

    • Now place the bumpers and the L/R buttons (if not done earlier). Don't forget to place the on/off button back too!

  27. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    : step 27, image 1 of 3 : step 27, image 2 of 3 : step 27, image 3 of 3
    • Place the backplate back and put the screws back in.

    • That's it! If everything is done it should work now. Have fun gaming!

Bitiş Çizgisi

3 farklı kişi bu kılavuzu tamamladı.

koppie007

Üyelik tarihi: 22-08-2013

9.645 İtibar

9 adet Kılavuz yazıldı

7 Yorum

How would I add a way to control the brightness? is it as simple as soldering in an extra chip and wire?

Rinchanlife - Yanıt

Hi!

No, you can’t control the brightness with this mod. But I will try to create the IPS mod guide soon (hopefully next week)! With the IPS screen mod, you can control the brightness. But… you need to solder 3 wires. One on the TP2, and the other 2 cables for R and L buttons. You need to hold select, and press R and L to increase and decrease the brightness.

The IPS screen is a different screen with a special adapter. I’ll try to create the guide soon.

Perhaps it’s possible with another adapter for controlling the brightness on the AGS-101, but I don’t have this kind of adapter.

koppie007 -

Hi there again!

Just finished the IPS mod guide!

Link: Game Boy Advance IPS Backlight mod

If you have questions/need help, please let me know.

Good luck!!

koppie007 -

Do the ips v2 mod and the ags 101 mod require the same amount of plastic cutting?

D.J. Haynes - Yanıt

Hi! No. The IPS v2 mod takes less amount plastic cutting. But it’s different (for the plastic that needs a cut) regarding the AGS-101 mod.

koppie007 -

What is red wire for, the screen display is bright enough without it. It just increases the brightness by say 10% or so. Any other important function this wire has

Rumble Pirate - Yanıt

Nope, no other function regarding the red wire. It’s only to increase the brightness. So yeah, you can skip this optional step. But I wanted to make the guide as complete as possible.

koppie007 -

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