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Replacement guide for the rear camera on a Google Pixel 2 smartphone.

This repair is extensive and requires that the motherboard be completely removed.

Note: Some images in this guide show the battery removed from the phone. You do not need to remove the battery in order to replace the rear camera.

  1. If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass. This also makes a smooth surface allowing the suction cup to bond. Apply a suction cup as close to the volume button edge of the phone as you can while avoiding the curved edge.
    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass. This also makes a smooth surface allowing the suction cup to bond.

    • Apply a suction cup as close to the volume button edge of the phone as you can while avoiding the curved edge.

    • The suction cup will not make a good seal on the curved portion of the glass.

    My screen is severly cracked. I would recommend clear packaging tape as it is wide enough to accomodate the suction cup. Thinner cellophane tape won’t seal properly.

    John Tippitt - Yanıt

  2. Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure and insert an opening pick between the front panel and rear case. Do not insert the pick deeper than 1.5 mm, or you risk damaging the OLED panel. This requires a significant amount of force and patience. If you have trouble, rock the suction cup and screen to weaken the adhesive, or apply heat with an iOpener,  heat gun, or hair dryer.
    • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure and insert an opening pick between the front panel and rear case.

    • Do not insert the pick deeper than 1.5 mm, or you risk damaging the OLED panel.

    • This requires a significant amount of force and patience. If you have trouble, rock the suction cup and screen to weaken the adhesive, or apply heat with an iOpener, heat gun, or hair dryer.

    • The display panel is fragile. If you plan to re-use your display, take care to insert your tool only as far as necessary to separate the adhesive. Inserting the tool any further can damage the OLED panel under the glass.

    They cannot emphasize enough how careful you need to be when separating the screen. The iOpener does not work well enough to prevent breakage (opinion). I spent a majority of the hour and forty five minutes replacing my battery on removing the screen, i.e. reheating the iOpener, warming the device, slowly, with multiple passes, separating the adhesive. Use a heat gun or blow dryer.

    Devin McMillen - Yanıt

    How many passes do I need? I do have a heatgun but I’m afraid to discolor or damage the screen. Anyone know the best temp before stopping to seperate the screen?

    Sen Lin - Yanıt

    try the alcohol as instructed instead of heat. “Do not heat your phone. If needed, you can use a dropper or syringe to inject isopropyl alcohol (90+%) around the edges of the back cover to weaken the adhesive.  “

    Rogerio Sa - Yanıt

    Make sure to remove the adhesive under the top and bottom speakers to make it much easier to remove the screen.

    Chibi Chica - Yanıt

    Isopropyl alcohol works well to loosen the adhesive. However - GO SLOW. Slide the pick a bit, then apply some isopropyl alcohol into the gap where you’re sliding toward. Wait a moment, then slide a bit more. Move very slowly, particularly around the corners!

    Raquel Smith - Yanıt

    Any idea on what to do when the suction cup pops off of the screen before there’s enough clearance to slide the pick in?

    Douglas Leenhouts - Yanıt

    I used a hairdryer to weaken the adhesive. If you place your finger in the path of the hairdryer you’ll have a good idea of when too much heat has been applied (when your skin becomes unhappy at the temperature). BE VERY GENTLE. I cracked my screen because I didn’t weaken the adhesive enough. I also chipped(dog eared) the corner of the OLED screen underneath with one of the plastic tools. Don’t stick it in too far. As the guide says, use the flat edge or the pick to help control this.

    Alex Lawson - Yanıt

    I did the 90% alcohol and the iOpener. Took a while but finally got the screen off. As others have mentioned, there is lots of adhesive around the top and bottom speaker openings. I ended up reaching in with a small brush and more alcohol to get it. I used a tooth pick to break the final adhesive.

    I also had a set of dental tools and a set of magnifying goggles (I’m a model railroader) which helped greatly.

    John Reagan - Yanıt

    Like others have said, THIS STEP IS THE MOST DANGEROUS!!! You must be extremely gentle (no real force should be necessary to separate the screen from the glue) with the screen and take your time. (IMO if it takes you less than 30 mins to get the screen loose, your going too hard at it). Two suggestions from my successful battery replacement that I can give, use alcohol instead of heat (seems to work better with this phone) and start with a much thinner plastic tool that is also flexible (I used a metro card from the NYC MTA). This will allow you to get at the tiny gap without using any significant force and then get some alcohol into the gap by dripping it down the thin plastic tool. Honestly, IFIXIT should make a small thin rectangular card to use for this with lines around it for measurements…

    Aleksandr Demidenko - Yanıt

    The first pry to get the pick inside the edge of the screen needs A LOT OF HEAT and a very firm pull, and just as someone else mentioned, the iOpener did not work well, instead, a regular hair dryer proved more beneficial in applying a controlled amount of heat until its almost too hot to touch. Then, once the pick is inside 99% isopropyl alcohol worked wonders, use a syringe or dropper to apple some at the edge, wait for about 15 seconds and move the pick centimetre by centimetre. Make sure to not insert it more than 2mm at the sides. I took more than an hour just to get the screen off.

    A Sid - Yanıt

    As an experienced (1) screen remover, I’d recommend that if you don’t plan to change your screen, change your plans. You will be less disappointed that way. I managed to get mine for just over $10 with shipping and test it first (weak Battery). Pixel 3’s (Not 3a or XL) sure look a lot better now. They have removable backs. My pixel 1st gen was a cheap lesson. Looking for another cheap one to try alcohol on.

    Scott Graham - Yanıt

  3. In the following steps, extra caution is required in certain areas to avoid damage to the phone: Do not insert the pick more than 9 mm into the bottom edge of the phone. If the pick contacts the folded portion of the OLED panel it can damage the display.
    • In the following steps, extra caution is required in certain areas to avoid damage to the phone:

    • Do not insert the pick more than 9 mm into the bottom edge of the phone. If the pick contacts the folded portion of the OLED panel it can damage the display.

    • Only make very shallow cuts in the upper left corner, prying deeply can damage the front-facing camera.

    • Inserting an opening tool deeper than 1.5 mm into the sides of the device, or 9 mm into the top and bottom can permanently damage the display.

    This is inaccurate. The Pixel 2 phone’s back comes in two parts: a plastic main section and a glass back upper section. Only the glass section is required to be removed to replace the camera. Once the glass back is removed, the camera can easily be replaced without removing the motherboard, battery, or any other components. What is picture here looks like the original Google Pixel Phone.

    hunter alden - Yanıt

    Firstly, I disagree with hunter’s comment above - my Pixel 2 looked identical to this when I had it opened up.

    Secondly, the whole thing about 1.5mm at the sides - literally scared the cr*p out of me when I started this as it’s such a tiny margin - but what this doesn’t say is that you can see these limits on your phone - just turn the screen on and it’s where the display ends - the digitiser starts there and is a couple of mm deep - hence the need to be careful. You can also see it (though less obviously) when you have the screen off - the jet black part at the edge is where the adhesive is - just make sure you don’t push in past there. It’s not like you can’t make very gentle contact with the digitiser when clearing the adhesive - I believe it’s just any kind of real pressure which will render the screen useless.

    Dave Watts - Yanıt

    I think it would be helpful to highlight the adhesive patches around the microphone/speaker areas and that you do need to project your pick in quite a distance to break this adhesive. I think simply creating a highlighted tracing of all of the adhesive areas would be helpful and pretty simple to do. It is shown to some extent, but in my opinion it could be more clear. In all of the prefaced concerns for digging too deep, I spent extra time and effort carefully prying upward and cracked my screen and OLED rendering my phone useless. Eventually I decided to probe more deeply toward the mic/speaker and broke things loose which allowed me to remove the screen easily.

    Matt Escher - Yanıt

    Yes your right. I didn't e that and I disassembly the scree from it's digitiser layer. If i would know in advanced the adhesive borders it wouldn't happened.

    Ronen Stolarski -

    I took my time but a few times I slipped in more than I wanted. No harm. The bottom is the more tricky. The adhesive around the bottom opening goes right up against the ribbon cable for the screen. I got the edges unglued with alcohol & iOpener. I then gently pried the screen away and reached in with a small brush and more alcohol. I then used a toothpick to break the last pieces of adhesive.

    John Reagan - Yanıt

    Besides the adhesive at the edges, there are 2 rectangular shaped adhesive patches at the top (around the speaker) and bottom (around the microphone). These are pretty thick, but can be easily chipped away with the pick. You start to see these as you gently lift the screen upwards with the suction cup and peer inside (use a flashlight). I did not need to use a heat gun or blow dryer. Just the pick and some isopropyl alcohol.

    Hasan Akhter - Yanıt

    Use isopropyl alcohol with a syringe at the top and bottom speaker to weaken the adhesive, gently pull apart (about 2mm) and use a finer piece of plastic (like a milky file plastic sheet) to cut through the adhesive at the speakers, but still do not take the screen off completely yet! After extensively reading about failed attempts to get the screen off (instances where people damaged the OLED underneath) one thing is in common: few devices have little adhesive underneath the ribbon cable as well, which people failed to notice and while separating the screen and in turn, damaged the OLED because of the pull from the ribbon cable. Thanks to having this information beforehand I found the same issue in my phone after I separated the screen (not completely) from the frame, I used a piece of finer sheet of plastic to cut the adhesive holding the ribbon cable. You will have to be extremely patient and take your time.

    A Sid - Yanıt

  4. In the following steps, use the flat of the opening pick, rather than a corner, to cut here. This will help prevent inserting the pick too deeply. Slide the opening pick up the right side of the phone to separate the display adhesive.
    • In the following steps, use the flat of the opening pick, rather than a corner, to cut here. This will help prevent inserting the pick too deeply.

    • Slide the opening pick up the right side of the phone to separate the display adhesive.

    • Take extra care with the side bezels, which are only 1.5 mm deep.

  5. Slide the opening pick around the upper-right corner and along the top edge of the phone. Slide the opening pick around the upper-right corner and along the top edge of the phone. Slide the opening pick around the upper-right corner and along the top edge of the phone.
    • Slide the opening pick around the upper-right corner and along the top edge of the phone.

    Leaving one pick inserted at each corner will help prevent it from sticking back.

    A Sid - Yanıt

  6. Slide the pick around the upper-left corner of the phone and down the left edge of the phone. Slide the pick around the upper-left corner of the phone and down the left edge of the phone. Slide the pick around the upper-left corner of the phone and down the left edge of the phone.
    • Slide the pick around the upper-left corner of the phone and down the left edge of the phone.

  7. Slide the pick around the bottom-left corner and along the bottom of the phone. Keep pick at a slight angle away from the screen to avoid damage to the OLED corners. Take extra care not to insert the opening pick more than 9 mm to avoid damaging the OLED panel. Take extra care not to insert the opening pick more than 9 mm to avoid damaging the OLED panel.
    • Slide the pick around the bottom-left corner and along the bottom of the phone. Keep pick at a slight angle away from the screen to avoid damage to the OLED corners.

    • Take extra care not to insert the opening pick more than 9 mm to avoid damaging the OLED panel.

  8. Reinsert the pick at the top edge of the phone and gently pry up the display. If the display doesn't readily lift, do some extra prying to separate the last of the adhesive. The adhesive near the upper speaker is thicker than other places.
    • Reinsert the pick at the top edge of the phone and gently pry up the display.

    • If the display doesn't readily lift, do some extra prying to separate the last of the adhesive. The adhesive near the upper speaker is thicker than other places.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as a fragile ribbon cable still connects it to the phone's motherboard.

    This for me was by far the hardest step. What this guide fails to say is just how much adhesive you’ll encounter - mine was heaving with the stuff - so I wouldn’t attempt this fix without the rubbing alcohol, and I would be prepared to spend 30 mins on this - the images above make it look like as soon as you can get the pick in and around the whole phone the display will come off - this wasn’t true on mine, and I put a small crack in the top of my screen as I applied a little pressure to lever the top - the edges were ok, but there was so much adhesive at the top and bottom - right down and around the speaker grills - that I used scissors to cut the remaining strands as I managed to lift the screen higher enough! Don’t be shy with the rubbing alcohol, it really helps - and you really need to feel all sides loosen properly before you attempt to lever - but if you’re patient, it’ll be ok.

    Dave Watts - Yanıt

  9. Carefully lay the display down on top of the rear case as shown, making sure not to crease or tear the display ribbon cable. Remove the two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws securing the display cable bracket.
    • Carefully lay the display down on top of the rear case as shown, making sure not to crease or tear the display ribbon cable.

    • Remove the two 4.0 mm T5 Torx screws securing the display cable bracket.

  10. Remove the display cable bracket.
    • Remove the display cable bracket.

  11. Use the point of a spudger to lift the display cable connector up and out of its socket on the motherboard. Avoid touching the motherboard with the tip of your spudger. The components surrounding the socket are fragile.
    • Use the point of a spudger to lift the display cable connector up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

    • Avoid touching the motherboard with the tip of your spudger. The components surrounding the socket are fragile.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

    • If any part of your screen doesn't respond to touch after your repair re-seat this connector, making sure it clicks fully into place and that there's no dust or other obstruction in the socket.

    • During reassembly, pause here and replace the adhesive around the edges of the display.

    Wow, I think I damaged my motherboard on this step. It would be helpful if there was a warning in this step to avoid doing that! Now my pixel 2 is reduced to a cool paperweight with a static display.

    Zach Laporte - Yanıt

    Yep, there’s a small surface mounted component below the connector that is super easy to dislodge from the circuit board. Shown in this YouTube video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BEpgqpI.... Unfortunately, the part is smaller than a grain of sand, so not really practical for the average fixer to put back on the board.

    jlyonsmith - Yanıt

    I also knocked the tiny chip off of the board while removing the ribbon cable in this step. Use the spudger exactly how it’s shown in the photos.

    John Ware - Yanıt

  12. Apply a heated iOpener to the proximity sensor on the top edge of the midframe for two minutes to soften its adhesive.
    • Apply a heated iOpener to the proximity sensor on the top edge of the midframe for two minutes to soften its adhesive.

    Isopropyl alcohol worked quickly for this

    Raquel Smith - Yanıt

  13. Slide the point of a spudger under the proximity sensor cable, starting from the side closest to the front-facing camera. Gently lift the edge of the sensor cable until the sensor is perpendicular to the midframe.
    • Slide the point of a spudger under the proximity sensor cable, starting from the side closest to the front-facing camera.

    • Gently lift the edge of the sensor cable until the sensor is perpendicular to the midframe.

    This piece is actually glued down - heat and rubbing alcohol really helped as at first I couldn’t figure out why I couldn’t get it to move.

    Dave Watts - Yanıt

  14. Peel back the small piece of tape covering the screw below the earpiece speaker. Peel back any tape covering other screws as well.
    • Peel back the small piece of tape covering the screw below the earpiece speaker. Peel back any tape covering other screws as well.

    • Remove the following screws securing the midframe:

    • Eleven 3.7 mm Phillips screws

    • One 4 mm T5 Torx screw

    On my Pixel 2, I also had to peel back a small strip of conductive tape that was directly above (and the same kind as) the “screw below the earpiece speaker” mentioned above. It appears to be a ground strap to the assembly underneath.

    Jonathan Dubovsky - Yanıt

    Me too! Please change the photo?

    Andrew Hoeveler - Yanıt

    If you don't peel the mesh tape up, it will year. I'm not sure if it plays into the screen potentially not working, but it seems to be a ground for the midframe and the display ribbon has a ground contact to the

    Wesley Krueger - Yanıt

    Many of the screws would not come out due to the original threadlocker on the threads. I found that if I just kept moving them around with a toothpick, I could get the out. I also had one of those telescoping magnetic bolt grabbers that pulled the screws out.

    John Reagan - Yanıt

  15. Insert an opening tool into the notch in the midframe near the hold button. Pry the midframe up enough to create a gap between it and the phone case. The midframe cannot yet be completely removed.
    • Insert an opening tool into the notch in the midframe near the hold button.

    • Pry the midframe up enough to create a gap between it and the phone case. The midframe cannot yet be completely removed.

    This is to pop a securing tab out it's place

    Wesley Krueger - Yanıt

    On re-assembly make sure the securing tab, near the notch you use to open it, is inserted back under the frame again - this caused me to have to re-open my phone as my screen didn’t sit back down properly after I had put everything back together.

    Dave Watts - Yanıt

    It is more effort than I anticipated. I really thought I was going to break it, but it was fine.

    John Reagan - Yanıt

  16. Lift the midframe up starting from the bottom edge. When the midframe starts to make about a 45° with the rest of the phone, lift the midframe straight up and away from the phone. As you lift the midfame, carefully guide the proximity sensor through the small slot in the midframe.
    • Lift the midframe up starting from the bottom edge.

    • When the midframe starts to make about a 45° with the rest of the phone, lift the midframe straight up and away from the phone.

    • As you lift the midfame, carefully guide the proximity sensor through the small slot in the midframe.

    While not shown here in the photo, there is a short braided cable between the midframe and the motherboard near the front facing camera that prevents separating the midframe completely (ground?). Be careful not to damage this cable when completing the remaining steps or carefully remove before trying to separate the midframe completely.

    ericdowens - Yanıt

    As ericdowens says above, there’s a small silver sliver of a connector (next to the front-facing camera). The guides on youtube said it was a grounding wire. This guide doesn’t mention it. Mine broke when I removed the midframe. No big deal. I stuck it back down with some tape when I put it all back together. Phone works fine.

    Alex Lawson - Yanıt

    I had a heck of a time levering up the midframe. I had popped the side with the opening tool, but the other side was really stuck. I used some alcohol along the edge thinking there was some adhesive. Not sure. I eventually used a dental pick to pop it loose.

    And when reinstalling, don’t forget to move the short braided cable back out of the way so you don’t trap it inside.

    John Reagan - Yanıt

  17. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector. Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the battery connector.

    This photo and tutorial doesn't show the shielding on the chips of the motherboard. And the glue…My pixel 2 had the volume button ribbon cable glued to the shielding. Carefully pry the cable off. Very carefully slide under it. Maybe use a little heat to soften the glue. You cannot just remove the motherboard with removing the ribbon cable for the volume buttons.

    A and S Frostad - Yanıt

  18. use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the charging assembly connector from the motherboard. use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the charging assembly connector from the motherboard.
    • use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the charging assembly connector from the motherboard.

  19. Insert a paperclip or SIM eject tool into the small hole on the left side of the phone and push until the SIM card tray pops out. Remove the SIM card tray. Remove the SIM card tray.
    • Insert a paperclip or SIM eject tool into the small hole on the left side of the phone and push until the SIM card tray pops out.

    • Remove the SIM card tray.

  20. Remove the two 2.5 mm PH00 screws.
    • Remove the two 2.5 mm PH00 screws.

  21. Disconnect two connectors at the bottom edge of the motherboard. Disconnect two connectors at the bottom edge of the motherboard. Disconnect two connectors at the bottom edge of the motherboard.
    • Disconnect two connectors at the bottom edge of the motherboard.

  22. Pry up the motherboard using a plastic opening tool. Remove the motherboard.
    • Pry up the motherboard using a plastic opening tool.

    • Remove the motherboard.

  23. Flip the motherboard over. Disconnect the fingerprint sensor cable. The motherboard is now completely detached from the phone.
    • Flip the motherboard over.

    • Disconnect the fingerprint sensor cable.

    • The motherboard is now completely detached from the phone.

  24. Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up and disconnect the rear camera press-fit connector. Remove the rear camera from the motherboard.
    • Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up and disconnect the rear camera press-fit connector.

    • Remove the rear camera from the motherboard.

    My pixel 2 device camera isn't working. By using magnet I have to tap around the rear camera after few then back camera will open. Again If i close the camera it's not reopen normally. May I know the reason why this issue common for pixel phones?

    chbhargavsarma - Yanıt

Sonuç

Compare your new replacement part to the original part—you may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

6 farklı kişi bu kılavuzu tamamladı.

Blake Klein

Üyelik tarihi: 29-01-2017

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17 Yorum

Does anyone know if replacing the camera unit fixes the problem with the camera’s ‘fatal error’ issue? I’m trying to figure out if it’s just the camera unit that’s bad, or if there are other parts involved.

Sean McCay - Yanıt

I just replaced my rear camera on pixel 2 and I can confirm YES it does fix it!

John Feng -

Well, I completed the repair on the camera but cannot confirm that it worked because I messed up my display which costs too much to replace :( That thing is super delicate I guess. I’m thoroughly upset.

Sean McCay -

Yes. This fixed my Pixel 2 camera crashing issue. My original symptom was that the autofocus stopped working properly. Then a month or so later the rear camera would crash 49 out of 50 times I opened it (completely unusable). Many people online swear this is a software issue caused by an android update but because I had that focus issue crop up first I suspected my issue was physical damage. I’m generally pretty careful with my phone, it lives in an official case. The only potentially damaging behaviour my phone is exposed to is my placing it in a windscreen mounted phone holder. Perhaps the repeated vibration can break something. Now my camera is fixed I will continue to place it in the phone holder and report back if it breaks again. For science. BE VERY CAREFUL REMOVING THE SCREEN. The guide is not being overly cautious about the screen removal. I broke my screen removing it and turned my $50 camera job into a $200 job with a new screen. Still worth it but I wish I’d heeded the warnings and cautions.

Alex Lawson -

Alex, you may be onto something! There have been many reports of motorcycle riders breaking their smartphone cameras after they’ve mounted their smartphones for prolonged periods. The optical stabilization hardware on these camera modules is pretty fragile. I suspect repeated vibration can definitely result in breaking some very delicate wires in the OIS or flex cables.

Arthur Shi -

NO...Did not work for me :( I am a semi experienced with smartphone repair, and I was able to put my pixel 2 all back together (tested the camera replacement several times before so) with all features working sans camera. Appears to be a motherboard issue. Or maybe it's the front camera…. Either way it's a software issue, because the Google Camera app should tell you what's wrong, and let you use that camera that does work. This repair, if you do attempt, is made easier with a heat gun (a 20 dollar one will do) of course and several picks (guitar picks are handy) to keep the screen from reattaching. Just heat until it's sorta hot to touch…not too much! Also note the instructions on how far to put the picks in to not damage the screen(don't go past the bezels).

I am going to phone into a debugger and figure out the error code next… but also might just buy a samsung (this is my second google phone to have motherboard problems).

A and S Frostad -

Is the battery removal really necessary to get the motherboard out? I’m not seeing any reason it should be.

jkenny23 - Yanıt

If you get any answer for this please inform

shady mohamed -

You’re correct! I’ve updated the guide to reflect this.

Arthur Shi -

Definitely not needed. And considering how tough the adhesive is under the battery, I’d say it’s best not to remove it.

Alex Lawson -

Can you comment more on why a new battery is needed? My battery is working fine, I'd rather not b a new one.

Erin Beck Acain - Yanıt

Hi Erin! I updated the guide to skip over the battery replacement section, as it is not needed for the rear camera.

Arthur Shi -

Yeah, I skipped the battery removal/replacement.

Alex Lawson -

I successfully (all previously working parts of phone still working) reinstalled a new camera- except the camera doesn't work still. So I am in the software camp on this plague of pixel cameras. And even if the rear camera doesn't work… why wouldn't the front!!! It's a motherboard issue… or software. Google please just print the error to the screen causing the camera not to work!!!! I had a Nexus 5x before (its motherboard went bad just like the rest)… so I am not going with Google for the next phone. Samsung's seem to hold up better statistically.

A and S Frostad - Yanıt

This fix did not work for me. For those that it did: did your front camera still work though? Both my front a rear cameras weren't working. I went ahead and replaced the rear, but no change. Maybe I got a DOA camera, but why doesn't my front camera work… what was the status of both your cameras before and after repair?

A and S Frostad - Yanıt

Since the battery removal is not necessary, the Tesa 61395 Tape can be removed from the parts list - correct?

auldgregg - Yanıt

I agree it can be removed. As long as people have the “Google Pixel 2 Display Adhesive”. If you didn’t have a replacement Display Adhesive pack you’d need to cut and use Tesa tape as the original adhesive is very unlikely to be re-usable.

Alex Lawson -

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