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This guide shows how to remove and replace Google Pixel XL's display assembly, which includes the screen and digitizer.

The Pixel XL’s unreinforced display panel is fragile and is attached to the frame with strong adhesive, making repairs difficult. There is a considerable chance of breaking the display, especially if it already has micro-fractures. Be sure to apply plenty of heat and be extremely careful during the prying stage.

  1. Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the display for two minutes. A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage. Take note of the following regions before you begin prying:
    • Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the display for two minutes.

    • A hair dryer, heat gun, or hot plate may also be used, but be careful not to overheat the phone—the display and internal battery are both susceptible to heat damage.

    • Take note of the following regions before you begin prying:

    • Thin adhesive lined against the display panel

    • Thick adhesive

    • The OLED display panel, which is very prone to damage

    • The display cable, which can be damaged during prying

    From my experince, it’s better to use a heat gun (if iFixit sold a good heat gun in volume, they should spruik that). Also, heat ALL sides at the same time BUT concentrate on the top part of the phone where the foam adhesive tape is thickest, second on the bottom where the foam is almost as thick. It also helps to use the 2nd & 3rd images in the series to visualise where the adhesive is.

    Jon T. - Yanıt

    Ty for the advice I prefer heat gun but my first pixel

    Michael Koch -

  2. Once the edge is warm to the touch, apply a suction cup close to the edge. Lift on the suction cup, and insert an opening pick into the gap. Do not insert the pick more than 13 mm (0.5 inches), or you will damage the display assembly.
    • Once the edge is warm to the touch, apply a suction cup close to the edge.

    • Lift on the suction cup, and insert an opening pick into the gap.

    • Do not insert the pick more than 13 mm (0.5 inches), or you will damage the display assembly.

    • If you have trouble creating a gap, reheat the edge and try again.

    • You can also try to use a playing card instead of an opening pick to help make the initial entry.

    From my experience, I had to use a thin blade (such as the ones included with the deluxe iFixit repair kit) to slide into the small gap, and cut away at the foam adhesive. Once enough of a gap is created, the picks can then be used to push the adhesive aside - but the adhesive is so thick, especially -as Brewmaster396 observed in the comments below - at the top right corner behind the screen, that the knife is required to cut it. I failed here - cracking the back layer of my screen - because I didn’t take time to cut all the adhesive away from that thick part, and kept trying to pull the screen off. It doesn’t take a lot of pressure to crack - so maybe it’s more a thing of cutting and floating the screen up, not pulling and prying.

    Jon T. - Yanıt

    Mark the picks with lines that show how deep you can go in that part of the screen. This will help keep you from accidentally hitting the fragile screen

    Matthew Goodwin - Yanıt

    Matthew Goodwin - Excellent suggestion.

    casper911ca -

    Jon T made a great suggestion about creating a mark on the picks (see above).

    Matthew Goodwin responds with an “Excellent suggestion.”

    Here we are 8 months later and no lines on the picks in my new pro-tech tool kit, not sure why this hasn’t been implemented at this point in time.

    Bob H.

    Bob Hawley - Yanıt

    Thin, but sturdy pieces of paper (playing cards, bits of paper box packaging) helped me a lot when trying to open my screen. The plastic picks are useful, but very slippery so you should use extra caution when applying pressure with those.

    diplomat - Yanıt

  3. Slide the opening clip across the top edge to slice through the adhesive. Be sure not to cut deeper than 13 mm (0.5 inches) or you will damage the display. Leave an opening pick in the edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.
    • Slide the opening clip across the top edge to slice through the adhesive.

    • Be sure not to cut deeper than 13 mm (0.5 inches) or you will damage the display.

    • Leave an opening pick in the edge to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

  4. Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the phone for two minutes. Insert an opening pick near the top edge of the phone, where you have already sliced the adhesive. Slowly guide the pick around the right corner.
    • Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the phone for two minutes.

    • Insert an opening pick near the top edge of the phone, where you have already sliced the adhesive.

    • Slowly guide the pick around the right corner.

    • Carefully slide the pick down the right edge of the phone to slice through the adhesive.

    • Do not insert the pick more than 1 mm (1/32") along the edge, or you will damage the display assembly.

    • Repeat the step for the left edge of the phone.

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  6. Heat the bottom edge with an iOpener for two minutes. Insert a pick near the right edge where you have already loosened the adhesive.
    • Heat the bottom edge with an iOpener for two minutes.

    • Insert a pick near the right edge where you have already loosened the adhesive.

    • Carefully guide the pick around the corner.

    • Slide the pick along the bottom edge to slice through the adhesive.

    • Do not slice deeper than 8.5 mm (1/3") or you will damage the display cable.

  7. Once you have sliced around the perimeter of the phone, carefully lift the display assembly up slightly by the right corners.
    • Once you have sliced around the perimeter of the phone, carefully lift the display assembly up slightly by the right corners.

    • Do not attempt to remove the display assembly. It is still attached by a flex cable.

    • Use an opening pick to slice through any remaining adhesive.

    As long as you’ve disengaged the adhesive relatively evenly around all sides, I found mounting the suction cup in the middle (biased a little to the left or right side), helps a lot on this step.

    casper911ca - Yanıt

  8. Lift the display assembly from the top end and swing it around such that it rests upside down on the frame. Be careful not to strain the flex cable when you swing the assembly around. Be careful not to strain the flex cable when you swing the assembly around.
    • Lift the display assembly from the top end and swing it around such that it rests upside down on the frame.

    • Be careful not to strain the flex cable when you swing the assembly around.

  9. Remove the two 4 mm T5 screws securing the display cable bracket. Remove the display cable bracket.
    • Remove the two 4 mm T5 screws securing the display cable bracket.

    • Remove the display cable bracket.

  10. Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display cable from its connector. To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.
    • Use the point of a spudger to pry up and disconnect the display cable from its connector.

    • To re-attach press connectors like this one, carefully align and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other side. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is misaligned, the pins can bend, causing permanent damage.

    i have to agree with the comment here about the connector. If you press it in the middle, it will bend. Resulting in either bent pins on the motherboard or the display. In my case it was both !

    Richard St.Hilaire - Yanıt

    Be careful prying up the connector and apply force only from the side as shown in the picture cause in the longest side there are capacitors that can be broke doing the lever ( happened to me Repair missing capacitor near display connection port )

    Daniele Maggio - Yanıt

  11. Remove the display assembly. For comprehensive instructions on how to reinstall the Pixel XL display, follow this guide. If your replacement display did not come with a speaker grille, use tweezers to gently peel the adhesive grille from your old display, and transfer it to the replacement.
    • Remove the display assembly.

    • For comprehensive instructions on how to reinstall the Pixel XL display, follow this guide.

    • If your replacement display did not come with a speaker grille, use tweezers to gently peel the adhesive grille from your old display, and transfer it to the replacement.

    • Before installing a new display, be sure to remove all traces of adhesive from the frame. Use a spudger or an opening tool to scrape it off, and use high-concentration isopropyl alcohol to remove any residue.

    • If you are reinstalling the same display assembly, be sure to remove all adhesive residue from the panel and the frame before applying new adhesive.

    • Be sure to turn on your phone and test your repair before installing new adhesive and resealing the phone.

    The Parts List does not state you need a replacement display. Is this portion of the Repair Guide copied and pasted from another guide (perhaps the screen replacement guide) or will I need to procure a replacement screen before I attempt to replace the battery?

    casper911ca - Yanıt

    It is possible to replace the battery without replacing the display, but there is a significant chance you may break the display during removal. It depends on if your display already has micro-fractures, and how stubborn the screen adhesives are. I would personally buy a screen just in case, and return the part if I didn’t need it.

    Arthur Shi -

    Hello, I recently bought a refurb screen off of eBay to fit. The phone was 100% working before and just needed a new display/battery.

    The battery came before the display. I wanted to test the display before doing too much reassembly, so I plugged in the battery, connected the mother/daughter boards with the interconnect cable, and then plugged in the LCD.

    When I press the power button there is the usual single buzz from booting, but the display is completely blank.

    Is the replacement screen DOA, or are there important traces/connections made by fully assembling the midframe and missing screws before testing the LCD?

    If I already have all the ingredients for a fair test of the LCD, then it seems the LCD is bad?

    Like I said the phone worked perfectly before… and if the new battery is dead, I would expect no buzz, or at least a battery graphic?

    John - Yanıt

    Hi John,

    If the phone buzzed, that usually signifies that it has booted up—having no image at that point usually means some kind of display issue. I would suggest disconnecting the display connector, carefully checking for any debris in the socket, and carefully re-connecting it.

    I’ve also seen a comment in another Pixel guide that suggests plugging in the display connector before the battery. If that works, please leave a comment!

    Arthur Shi -

    battery connector is not accessible without removing the display first………. and reassembling, battery has to be connected first, then the plastic piece and then the display

    Alan Sears - Yanıt

Sonuç

Compare your new replacement part to the original part. You may need to transfer remaining components or remove adhesive backings from the new part before installing.

If your Pixel won't turn on after replacing the screen, there is a chance that the phone has silently turned on when the battery is re-connected. Hold the power button for a few seconds until the phone vibrates off. Afterwards, re-connect the screen, and try again.

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Google Pixel XL Answers community for troubleshooting help.

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I just connected the screen to the phone, but the screen doesn’t start. Do I have to restart in a special way the phone to make it works? All possible button combinations to restart the phone doesn’t work

David Torralbo - Yanıt

The iFixIt iOpener tool is a complete waste of money. It didn’t loosen up the glue at all. I am requesting a refund on Amazon.com

Drew Hookway - Yanıt

Hi Drew, sorry to hear that your iOpener didn’t work too well in your repairs. We like to think it’s a pretty valuable and inexpensive tool, but it does have its quirks — namely, not everyone’s microwave is specced to operate at the same temperatures, so not everyone will achieve the most optimal temperature during that heating process.

For what it’s worth, we do put a Lifetime Warranty on the iOpener tools, so our Support team would be happy to replace that one for you, if you’d like. If so, please reach out to them by using the Contact link on the help page: http://help.ifixit.com. Otherwise, you are welcome to request a refund via Amazon and we will oblige.

We wish you all the best in your future repairs.

Kadan Sharpe -

I am sure the iOpener does work, but it probably takes a long time to heat the adhesive enough for screen removal and would require several applications. I got one as part of my screen replacement kit, although I have a heat gun so I didn’t end up using it. That being said my screen took at least four minutes of heating, with some re-heating to remove the broken shards. I would also imagine that adhesives vary from manufacturer, since this is my first screen replacement all I know is that the adhesive on the Pixel XL is really strong!

Dan E -

Don’t forget to transfer the speaker cloth to the new screen. I got it all back together before realizing that there was just an ugly hole.

John-Paul Andrusky - Yanıt

Thanks! I probably would have missed it. Since I changed the screen color from white to black I colored the screen black with a permanent Sharpie, worked perfectly.

Dan E -

First time repairing a smartphone. I broke my Pixel XL’s screen months ago and although it was still fully functional, the screen was broken at the top near the grill. I was motivated to fix it myself since I didn’t trust leaving at a repair center and I thought it would be an interesting to try it myself.

Parts: Google Pixel XL Screen and Digitizer (includes adhesive and tools)

Tools used: 1100W heat gun, suction cup, opening picks, plastic spudger, T5 Torx screwdriver and angled tweezers

Tools not used: iOpener

Time to complete: 1+ hour

I referenced the guide when necessary. I didn’t use the iOpener, I can’t see this working well as it took well over 4 minutes of heating the screen with my 1100W heat gun, which I used on low since high would probably have cooked my phone! My screen was broken near the top grill so I had to re-heat that area and remove the shards with tweezers. The repair time was an hour, not including prep and clean up. Removing the tiny shards and adhesive was the most time consuming.

Dan E - Yanıt

This guide is very good but beware removing a cracked screen. Removing my cracked screen was particularly tricky. Using picks to run around the edges works until you encounter a crack. If you’re lucky the pick will glide past the crack but if you’re not then you might not be able to get past that crack. Try again from the other side of the crack if possible. Shattered parts of the glass screen might render the suction cup useless making certain parts of the screen impossible to remove easily. Try your best to get as much of the glass/screen up in one piece. Regularly apply heat via the iOpener to keep the glue soft and pliable and keep working at the shattered areas (I just removed the shattered pieces using the tweezers).

Alex Gemmell - Yanıt

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