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Does your Instant Pot show the dreaded C6 error while it makes alarming beeps? Follow this guide to diagnose what’s wrong and learn how to fix it!
The C6, C6L, and C6H errors means that one of the pressure sensors isn’t working. Most of the time, it’s due to a buildup on the sensor contacts. Cleaning the contacts will likely fix the problem.
This guide was written with an Instant Pot DUO80, but the general procedure can be applied to many electric pressure cookers because most use similar electronics and sensors.
What you need
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Flip the Instant Pot upside down.
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Use a T15 Torx driver to remove the screw securing the bottom plate.
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Twist and remove the bottom plate.
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The T6L (low pressure) sensor and its connector. Some models may not have this.
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The T6H (high pressure) sensor and its connectors.
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The screws underneath the white resin are calibration screws.
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Use a spudger or your finger to firmly press the top of a sensor. You should hear a loud click, signifying that the metal strips in the sensor are flexing properly.
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Repeat for the second sensor.
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Sometimes, just flexing the sensors will fix the problem. Carefully re-assemble the Instant Pot and check if it works.
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If the Instant Pot doesn't work, unplug the device, and follow the subsequent steps to further diagnose the problem.
If I replace the sensor with the same model one that was originally in the instant pot, do I need to recalibrate or is it just install the new one and good to go?
Thank you
I dont really know but i'll say that to avoid any problem, just re calibrate it, like that you are sure
Clet -
True. Thank you!
Hi Arthur,
I am facing C6L error , as mentioned i have check the sensor its clicking well. When the Instant pot is turn on without the internal steel pot it doesn't show any error ,once the internal steel pot is kept it show's error C6L.
Need your suggestion how to resolve the same
Hi Lucas,
That's a peculiar situation. What happens if you disconnect the low pressure sensor's connector (step 7), reassembled the Instant Pot, plugged it in, and put the pot in? If it doesn't show C6L error, then there's something wrong with the sensor or wire.
my high pressure sensor isn't clicking as well, I'm ordering this part off amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FSRDGDD
I’m just a mom. How do I calibrate the replacement sensor? It is my high pressure sensor that’s bad, No click.
Hi Cindi! I've added some additional steps on how to calibrate a new sensor. You can find it here.
Ok, so my sensors seem to operate as should, showing continuity in resting state and open loop when depressed. However the C6L error is still there, goes off as soon as I plug in the pot, all lights blinking and beeping. I've used sandpaper on contacts just in case, but both sensors seem to look and operate as new.
Is there any way I could bypass the low pressure sensor? when does it get activated anyway?
Hi Vaidas,
It sounds like the sensor continuity is not the problem, so bypassing the low pressure sensor likely won't fix the problem. There may be a broken solder joint or trace on the board.
Some preset modes will automatically use the low pressure setting, and you can choose to use the low pressure setting in the manual mode.
Hi! My Duo gave a C6H error. I followed your instructions till step 3 and found that the high pressure sensor was not clicking. I unscrewed the sensor assembly and closely observed the contacts with a cellphone camera in macro mode. I found that contact point was heavily worn out and in bad shape (pictures attached - link below). It clearly showed that I need to replace the sensor assembly altogether.
I would appreciate if you could add some directions on where a replacement sensor can be purchased and what would be a good price point.
Thanks alot for bringing me this far with very clear and lucid instructions. C6H Error Issue
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Use pliers or your fingers to lift and disconnect one of the sensor's spade connectors from the circuit board.
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These connectors can be stubborn. Gently wiggle the connector as you pull to loosen it.
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If the meter shows a high resistance or no continuity, it could mean that the sensor contacts are dirty. Double-check your meter contacts and make sure they're grasping onto the wires.
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Use a spudger or your finger to firmly press on the top of the sensor until it clicks.
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The meter should change to show no continuity (0.L, in my meter's case). If it doesn't, there is a potential electrical short—the contacts may be fused, or you may need to replace the sensor.
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Disconnect the low pressure sensor by squeezing its circuit board connector to disengage the lock, then pull straight up.
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Attach a multimeter lead to both exposed ends of the sensor wires, making sure the leads don't touch each other.
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Set the meter to resistance/continuity and test for continuity, when the sensor is resting, and when it's depressed.
Found that when disconnected from the board it wouldn't work on continuity. The video testing the high pressure side shows it connected too. This was a very helpful guide though. I cleaned my contacts and resolved the c6L error. Thank you Arthur for answering this issue. Instapot service was not helpful at all.
Hi David,
I think the continuity didn't work for you because the sensor contacts were dirty. I'm glad you resolved the issue!
Removed the pressure sensor connection from the board, the sensor connection was open. I pressed the sensor tongues for few times, the connection returned!. I did not have to remove the sensor assembly. Thanks Arthur.
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If your tests suggest that you may have dirty contacts, or you suspect the contacts have fused, follow the next steps to remove the sensors to clean them.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the screw securing the sensors to the Instant Pot.
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Lift the sensor assembly out of its recess.
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Press down on the sensor to open the contacts.
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Use some sandpaper, a file, or electrical contact cleaner to clean the contacts. Be sure to clean both mating surfaces.
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Use a multimeter to test the sensors for proper operation before you reassemble your Instant Pot.
Very helpful. For me, simply pushing down on the pressure switches seemed to be enough to restore operation - at least for awhile. If the problem comes back, I will bother to clean the contacts. I would suggest for those who find the provided instructions daunting, just try unscrewing and removing the cover, push down on both pressure sensors with your finger, then replace the cover and see if the unit resumes proper operation. If it doesn’t, then try cleaning the contacts. The multimeter is useful if the instant pot still does not work and you need to isolate the problem to the pressure switches or the control board before investing in a used replacement pressure switch. Finally, according to an Instant Pot blog, the pressure switches are not bimetal temperature switches. They sense physical expansion of the bottom of the inner pot under pressure.
Thanks for the helpful comments Paul! I'll add your corrections into the guide.
Thank you! My wife loves me even more now🤗
Thank you so much. I cleaned up and worked.
I also bought new ones at Amazon to replace in the future soon.
"Electric Pressure Cooker Pressure Sensor or Switch Works with Instant Pot, Power Cooker, Cuisinart, Farberware, Power Quick Pot, Crock-Pot" This sensor is not created or sold by the mentioned brands. https://a.co/d/5RmcEtu
C'était tout à fait cela! Le contact du capteur basse pression était sale. Merci infiniment! Réparé en quelques minutes et 0.00 $. Le tuto (photos, explications) ne peut être plus clair. Chez "Instant Pot" on me dit qu'avec un code "C6L", ce n'est pas réparable et on m'offre plutôt 30% de rabais sur l'achat d'un nouvel appareil. Humm! Ça sent l'arnaque!!! Merciiiiii encore!
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Install your replacement pressure sensor and reassemble the Instant Pot.
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Add 3 cups of water to the Instant Pot and set it to cook on high pressure for five minutes.
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Once the five minutes are up, vent using quick release.
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Unplug your Instant Pot and disassemble it until you can access the pressure sensors.
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Use a spudger to pry away the white adhesive covering the high pressure sensor calibration screw.
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This reveals the calibration screw's flat screwhead.
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If your Instant Pot is over-pressurizing, use a screwdriver to turn the screw clockwise (tighten) by a quarter turn. This makes the sensor trigger at a lower heat.
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If your Instant Pot is under-pressurizing, use a screwdriver to turn the screw counter-clockwise (loosen) by a quarter turn. This makes the sensor trigger at a higher heat.
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Reassemble the Instant Pot and perform the pressure test in the previous step. Readjust the calibration screw as needed.
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Once you've calibrated the Instant Pot, cover the calibration screw with some silicone or heat-tolerant adhesive. This prevents the calibration screw from turning.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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36 Comments
Thanks for this helpful tutorial?
Great and informative presentation! The pictures show exactly what to do and make everything perfectly clear. In my case, I was able to clean the contacts and the pot is back to working order. It took more time to find my multi-meter than it did to fix the problem. As a bonus, I had to look up what a “spudger” is… Now I can stop calling it that “stick thingy.” ?
My IP-DUO80 from 2016 died with C6H. The high pressure switch didn’t click so I ordered and waiting delivery on a KS0105A dual switch. Apparently there’s another version (YCD3008) but I don’t know the difference. I saw your warning not to try calibrating the switch. Anyway, I did find a suggestion for the single high/low switch to turn the sensitivity screw clockwise/counter-clockwise as needed to adjust the high and low pressures.
Wow this post was just 11 hours ago. My
IP-DUO80 from 2016 died with C6H as well last night….wierd. Worked fine for years. Thanks for the part numbers. I have yet to pull the switch to see how bad the contacts are but the high pressure side definitely doesnt click when pushed. If cleaning doesn't help I will order a new switch.
Adding a lot of rices can make it go C6????
I'm still getting the C6h and I put a new sensor in any suggestions???
I ordered a new pressure switch and looked at my old one both very clean and both made the click.. But still throwing the code!!!
Hi Anthony!
It sounds like there's an open circuit somewhere. Double check the wires going to that sensor, and the motherboard socket connecting the wires.
Thank you for this was very helpful
Thank you for this great information! Has anyone been able to find the correct replacement sensor for the duo80 v2? I am nervous about trying to calibrate a new switch. I would love feedback if anyone has success stories.
Hooray I can do it. Thanks a lot Mr Shi. Easy to follow your instructions.
H Pham from Melbourne Australia.
I had just replaced the switch with YCD3008, everything seems working, however, it took longer time to cook as before, eg. usually it took about half hour to cook the beef stew, and now it take one hours 15 minutes to have the same result, I realized i am having lower pressure inside the pot than before, I guess I have to take a chance to calibrate the switch to get higher pressure otherwise it is no point to cook with a pressure cooker in hours of time. Anyone here can show me how to calibrate the switch? which screw to adjust? (screw with the red wire or black?) which way to adjust? (anti-clockwise to get higher pressure, increment in quarter turn?) thanks!
Hi Erick,
If you're encountering issues in "H" (high) mode, you should adjust the sensor connected to the red wire. If you're cooking in "L" (low) mode, you should adjust the sensor connected to the black wire.
If the Instant Pot isn't pressurizing sufficiently, turn the calibration screw counter-clockwise by a quarter turn. This makes the sensor less sensitive, which means the pot will pressurize more before it triggers the cutoff.
Test by adding 3 cups of water to the Instant Pot to cook for five minutes. Once the five minutes are up, vent using quick release. There should be a strong pressure release. If there isn't, loosen the screw by a quarter turn and repeat the test.
If the emergency vent begins to leak or vent during the heating cycle, the pot is over-pressurizing. Immediately turn off the Instant Pot and perform a quick release. You'll need to tighten the calibration screw to make it more sensitive to pressure.
Hello,
I had to disassemble my entire instant pot after it overcooked. After reassembling, the error C6L came up. So I opened it up again and found, that the low pressure sensor circuit was permanently open. By loosening the middle screw, it clicked and the pot worked. However, I'm a bit worried because I had to loosen this screw and the pot doesn't respond as well as before to settings: e.g. pre-heat at the highest level is not completed. Do you have any idea what I can do?
Thank you for the great instructions! They helped a lot.
Yvonne
Hi Yvonne,
Are you speaking of the mounting screw in step 8? I think that screw transfers heat to the sensors, so it needs to be tightened in order for the sensors to work. Your sensors may be worn out and refuse to close—in that case, you'll need to replace the sensor.
Hi Arthur,
thanks for your reply. Yes, I was referring to the mounting screw. Sorry for expressing myself unclearly.
I completely disassembled it again yesterday and noticed that I had inserted the heating plate a little crookedly. After straightening, the sensor clicked and I was able to tighten the mounting screw. Now everything works exactly as it should. I hope this information is usefulfor somebody here.
Yvonne
Arthur Shi is one badass mother spudger.
I had a C6L error. $@$*, no beans tonight. Popped the bottom off with the ole' torn driver and BOOM, FULL ACCESS. I actuated the sensor with my alternate spudger, also known as a screwdriver. Easy as bros and lady bros. Flipped the unit back over immediately, only because he astutely noted that most sensors just need a nudge to work properly. Plugged her into 120 volts of raging AC and let her rip. BOOM... No more beeps or errors, only the sweet silence of a pressure-rated Droid waiting to unleash a savory pressurized !&&* on my chickpeas or black eyed peas. Maybe a steamed bun tonight with tofu. Whatever.
Non-dairy FUDGE YEAH baby
WHO COOKIN TONIGHT?!
WHO COOKIN' TONIGHT?!
hi i did the 'open it and press on the sensor and see if it works' thing and it seems to be okay again but now i'm terrified i pushed too hard and broke it worse somehow so it doesn't know it's broken and will blow up if pressurized. is that possible?
Hi KLD,
Don't worry—the Instant Pot has a safety vent that will activate and vent if that happens.
El sensor c6L está sucio de comida empegostada. Con que puedo limpiarlo?
Hi Anabel,
Use some high concentration isopropyl alcohol to clean the contacts.
Thank you for your help! Luckily when I clicked on the pressure bars it worked!
You are a genius!
Very informative instructions. The only difficult step is removing the "spade connectors" from the board in Step 4, and even then, it's not that difficult. Does anyone know why these sensors fail? One of my sensors makes a click when pressed, but the other one doesn't and it looks like the metal spring-thing (I assume it is some kind of bi-metallic that bends when heated?) is stuck. I guess these things simply fail with time and use? But it seems like such a simple mechanism to fail....
Thank Mr. Shi for these instructions. After going back and forth with Mealthy about a warranty on their cooker that they refused to honor when the pot threw an “Err 6” code on the day after the warranty expired I looked up instructions for instant pot (which I also own - IP is way better, BTW). The insides of the Mealthy duo pressure cooker are a little different but your instructions were clear enough that I was able to make the adjustment needed to get it working again.
Related, our instant pot has just in the last week started to act up on the low pressure rice setting. It should cook for 12 minutes but then when the pot comes to pressure the timer sets for anywhere from 14 to 22 minutes instead of 12. Thoughts on this repair?
This fixed my problem and saved me $$$ thanks!! It was pretty easy to do as well
Very detailed, clear, explanation of the diagnosis and repair process! Excellent!
Thanks! Just what I needed to make a quick repair!
This was helpful for me even though I have an IP-LUX80 which only does high pressure cooking. As such, it only requires one switch, a normally-closed, ILD KSD105... they can be found on eBay and ship from China for $10-15. The switch is mounted on an extension from the bottom side of the platter inside the outer pot. When the inner pot comes up to pressure, it moves just enough to press on the switch, opening the circuit and cutting off power to the heating element. When the inner pot cools and shrinks back up, the switch closes returning power to the heating element and the cycle repeats until the timer runs down. I set my switch calibration using continuity on a voltmeter... making sure the switch stopped continuity when the platter was moved as it would under pressure. FWIW, I tried to contact Instant Pot customer service like their troubleshooter said but to no avail. If I had not been able to repair my LUX80, I'd have bought elsewhere... Instant Pot would have gotten no more dollars from me. JMNSHO.
Thank you for this guide. One of the sensors' contacts is blackened and fused. I assume that is beyond what sandpaper would do and I should replace it?
After ordering the part number above (KS0105A) on amazon $12 ... it took me 8-10 quarter turns of the screw, as my instant-pot was over-pressurizing each time. It was scary at first, but I quickly got into a fast routine ... and was able to get it all done pretty quickly
1) setup the pot with water and start (see this articles instructions)
2) If over pressurizing, unplug and vent as described above
3) remove lid and use a oven glove to remove inner pot, set aside
4) flip instant pot, open bottom, turn screw a quarter turn (of half turn if you've done this a few times already)
5) close bottom, flip instant-pot up-right
6) repeat
