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  1. Turn the device over. The D-ring will be on the left face of the speaker when viewing the device from this orientation.
    • Turn the device over. The D-ring will be on the left face of the speaker when viewing the device from this orientation.

  2. Lift the handle on the D-ring and unscrew it. Remove the D-ring.
    • Lift the handle on the D-ring and unscrew it.

    • Remove the D-ring.

  3. Any repairs made from this point forward will void your device's warranty.
    • Any repairs made from this point forward will void your device's warranty.

    • Holding the speaker upright, wedge the metal spudger in between the casing and the speaker. Gently pry open the tabs as they are easily broken.

  4. Find the part of the casing that covers the volume controls. Wedge the metal spudger under this and pry open all of the tabs as in the previous step. Repeat for the bottom of the speaker and pry the casing open with your fingers. Repeat for the bottom of the speaker and pry the casing open with your fingers.
    • Find the part of the casing that covers the volume controls. Wedge the metal spudger under this and pry open all of the tabs as in the previous step.

    • Repeat for the bottom of the speaker and pry the casing open with your fingers.

  5. Using the Phillips J0 head screwdriver, unscrew the four silver 9 mm screws. Do the same for the two black 7 mm screws.
    • Using the Phillips J0 head screwdriver, unscrew the four silver 9 mm screws.

    • Do the same for the two black 7 mm screws.

  6. This next step involves the use of a hot soldering iron. Remember to be careful during this step since it can be easy to burn yourself. Using a soldering iron, de-solder the two ends of the switch plate. Using a soldering iron, de-solder the two ends of the switch plate.
    • This next step involves the use of a hot soldering iron. Remember to be careful during this step since it can be easy to burn yourself.

    • Using a soldering iron, de-solder the two ends of the switch plate.

    Great instructions here guys - just one comment from myself - underneath the plate there is glue holding it down as well as the solder joints. Be sure to heat it up slightly prior to lifting out otherwise the capacitors and other components get stuck in the glue.

    Jamie Horn - Yanıt

    bei mir sieht der blootooth-adapter anders aus. da muss ich nix löten, er ist klein und liegt nur in einer passenden mulde, aus der er herausgehoben und in die er wieder abgelegt werden kann. meine typbezeichnung ist S-00122.

    thomas propp - Yanıt

    Definitely start with the middle one, has 2 solder hinge points that took me a couple minutes to heat up, wiggle and finally lift up. One that side lifted, was much easier to go back to the edge hinge, heat up and just gently pull off.

    Michael Arvan - Yanıt

  7. With the switch plate disconnected, remove it and your device should now look like this.
    • With the switch plate disconnected, remove it and your device should now look like this.

  8. With a metal spudger, pry open the tabs on the speaker sleeve along the length of the speaker.
    • With a metal spudger, pry open the tabs on the speaker sleeve along the length of the speaker.

  9. Use a plastic opening tool to pry the sleeve off from the bottom of the speaker.
    • Use a plastic opening tool to pry the sleeve off from the bottom of the speaker.

  10. Peel off the sleeve. Peel off the sleeve. Peel off the sleeve.
    • Peel off the sleeve.

  11. Use a Phillips 1 screwdriver to unscrew the eight black 14 mm screws along the length of the casing. Use a Phillips 1 screwdriver to unscrew the eight black 14 mm screws along the length of the casing.
    • Use a Phillips 1 screwdriver to unscrew the eight black 14 mm screws along the length of the casing.

  12. With the screws removed, pry open the casing to be able to get to the components inside. Try prying the case open from one of the ends if that is easier.
    • With the screws removed, pry open the casing to be able to get to the components inside.

    • Try prying the case open from one of the ends if that is easier.

  13. With a Phillips #00 screwdriver, unscrew two 5.6 mm screws from the rectangular shaped circuit board. With a Phillips #00 screwdriver, unscrew two 5.6 mm screws from the rectangular shaped circuit board.
    • With a Phillips #00 screwdriver, unscrew two 5.6 mm screws from the rectangular shaped circuit board.

  14. With the Phillips #2 screwdriver, unscrew the 9.9 mm screw from the larger circuit board surrounding the speaker.
    • With the Phillips #2 screwdriver, unscrew the 9.9 mm screw from the larger circuit board surrounding the speaker.

  15. Once all of the screws are gone, you should be able to remove the circuit boards and find the battery.
    • Once all of the screws are gone, you should be able to remove the circuit boards and find the battery.

  16. Remove the battery by pulling it from the terminal as marked in the picture. Remove the battery by pulling it from the terminal as marked in the picture.
    • Remove the battery by pulling it from the terminal as marked in the picture.

Sonuç

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

24 farklı kişi bu kılavuzu tamamladı.

Jose Cruz Arinaga

Üyelik tarihi: 01-10-2015

887 İtibar

3 adet Kılavuz yazıldı

Takım

Cal Poly, Team 4-1, Maness Fall 2015 Cal Poly, Team 4-1, Maness Fall 2015 üyesi

CPSU-MANESS-F15S4G1

4 Üyeler

15 adet Kılavuz yazıldı

20 Yorum

What battery is required?

Harrison Leavey - Yanıt

You've got to be joking - so you spend £100 on a speaker and then need a degree in electrical engineering to replace the battery - what a load of s***e

Kevin Reitze - Yanıt

exactly, I agree

lisamuehlum -

I replaced the battery in mine. It took about an hour and it was easy, while the instructions appear complicated, undoing a few screws and folding back some tabs took only a few seconds. Before I replaced the battery my Boom had failed completely. Nothing I tried kicked the dead battery into working again, so I had two choices. Try replacing the battery or chucking it in the bin. So I bought a battery and had a go. I read up and had the right tools, and as luck favours the prepared, I was successful. The only warning I can think of is that out of the box the Boom is water resistant I believe, but post repair, I doubt it’s water resistant now.

Brandon Cheshire -

Don't pry open the entire thing. Open the side with the d-ring, there should be 4 screws like in the pic above and access to battery directly under that. There's instructions for changing battery in the box.

Brian Blackford - Yanıt

Where are those instructions because mine didn't come with any set of instructions other than a quick guide for using it for the first time.

missalandria -

Yeah, what battery is required.

eric bafford - Yanıt

YouTube has a great video & then i ordered the battery from e-bay

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QpHjhUjr...

on e-bay

Brand New Panasonic 18650 NCR18650B 3400mah Rechargeable Battery, with Tabs,

Arthur Zobel - Yanıt

Thats great and all. (Actually really simps to follow instructions!)

Now - where to find the battery??

And hints on where to source a battery?

Jay - Yanıt

Thanks for those instructions, if using the Panasonic 18650 3400mah battery to replace original, I assume you just cut the three wires, red, black and white attached to connector and resolver to 18650 terminals...

My question is to,which terminal do you attach which wires?

Ross Kentwell - Yanıt

Does anyone know where I can take the UE Boom to have the battery replaced?

David Brown - Yanıt

Hi there, my comment is as above. Does anyone know where you can take the UE Boom in, to get the battery replaced as it seems like a complicated procedure doing it yourself. I’ve contacted Logitech and thy are unable to offer any assistance on who to take it to but just to buy a replacement battery and DIY. Does anyone know what the battery model is to replace if you do decide to DIY? Thanks.

Vicki Price - Yanıt

The battery in mine is a standard Panasonic NCR16850B 3.6V 3200mAh. Got a new one for $7. Unfortunately, the guide stops short of the end of the procedure. After you complete step 16, you have to then cut open the black shrink wrap with something like a razor blade. Then you will find a circuit board with metals tabs connecting to each battery terminal. You’ve have to desolder the terminals from the old battery then solder them to the new battery. If you know how to solder, it’s not difficult, but be sure you have the tools before you even begin taking the UE Boom apart or else you won’t be able to finish the job.

Christopher Sokolowski - Yanıt

I found battery on e bay for $30 but what about if is not the battery and is charging port ?

Omar Marron - Yanıt

Do you need to include a new Bluetooth adapter with a new battery purchase? What's the procedure on reconnecting the Bluetooth adapter.

Daniel Thompson - Yanıt

Step 6 and more aren't necessary. once you opened it like on step 5. you will see the 3 wire and the battery. You can't pull out the battery without disconnecting the wire. For that push the hard plastic between the wire and the battery in battery direction. then carefully unplug the connector. once done you can replace the battery. You can by battery on the web that already have the same connectors. I bought mine there https://www.batteryupgrade.ch/shopBrowse...

Nolu - Yanıt

Seriously, nothing beyond step 5 is needed. Pop the bottom (the side with the D ring), unscrew the 4 screws, pull the battery, replace the battery, close up, and done. I did it with mine and it worked beautifully (finally). Done in 20 minutes.

I previously had huuuge dead spots on the OEM battery. Got maybe one session out of it. Now it finally plays as advertised.

Ian O'Leary - Yanıt

Logitech do not support battery replacement. https://support.logi.com/hc/en-us/commun...

Andrewsarchus - Yanıt

My experience was exactly as the pictures indicate. I have seen other models of the Boom that had removable end caps and, yes, it was possible to remove only the lower end cap to access the battery. But my latest Boom project needed to be completely disassembled in order to detach the battery from the main board. The end caps were not removable from the case. They were part of the case. I had to  remove  the switch in order to access the covering , split the case , and unfasten the circuit boards to access the battery. A BIG thank you to the author for posting these instructions and pictures!

Dwight Corella - Yanıt

I have found it much easier to take off the top and bottom and remove the whole volume control and cover. And then just go in from the bottom near the charge port. It’s a tight fit. But way less work than all this. No soldering involved.

derik sorensen - Yanıt

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