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Use this guide to replace the trackpad. This procedure involves using adhesive remover to remove the battery. Do not reuse the battery after it has been removed, as doing so is a potential safety hazard. Replace it with a new battery.

iFixit adhesive remover is highly flammable. Perform this procedure in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke or work near an open flame during this procedure.

To minimize risk of damage, turn on your MacBook and allow the battery to fully discharge before starting this procedure. A charged lithium-ion battery can create a dangerous and uncontrollable fire if accidentally punctured. If your battery is swollen, take extra precautions.

    • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    If don’t have one of those neat project mats, then you can use small pieces of flattened blu-tack to hold the screws. If you arrange them in the shape of your mac book cover, and put the screws down methodically, you can get a one-to-one mapping of the screws to the correct screw holes.

    Toby Thurston - Yanıt

    Or you can use an ice tray where you put the screws and the parts in separate bays in the same order as they come in the instructions.

    timofej.se -

    This is great! I used a small magnetic white board, and wrote on it to identify the parts as I went. This whole process, from the fast shipment to the great instructions to the complete, high quality, tool kit has been great. I’m typing this comment on my resurrected laptop. Thank you! Sue

    Susan Greer - Yanıt

  1. Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.
    • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

    • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

  2. During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips. The lower case is connected to the upper case at the center, with two plastic clips. The lower case is connected to the upper case at the center, with two plastic clips.
    • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

    • The lower case is connected to the upper case at the center, with two plastic clips.

  3. Remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.
    • Remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

  4. Remove the following screws securing the battery connector board to the logic board:
    • Remove the following screws securing the battery connector board to the logic board:

    • Two 2.8 mm T6 Torx screws

    • One 7.0 mm T6 Torx shouldered screw

  5. Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover located near the bottom right of the battery connector board. Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover located near the bottom right of the battery connector board.
    • Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover located near the bottom right of the battery connector board.

    Is adhered to screw beneath, so lift firmly and slowly.

    Andrew - Yanıt

  6. Remove the wide head 6.4 mm T6 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board assembly.
    • Remove the wide head 6.4 mm T6 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board assembly.

  7. Carefully lift the battery connector board up off the logic board. It is recommended to bend the battery cables just slightly, to keep the board suspended up above the logic board and out of the way.
    • Carefully lift the battery connector board up off the logic board.

    • It is recommended to bend the battery cables just slightly, to keep the board suspended up above the logic board and out of the way.

    • Do not fold the board completely over, or crease the cables, as this may damage the battery.

  8. Grasp the Interposer with tweezers. An interposer is the name for an interface that links one electrical connection to another. In this repair, it is the board connecting the battery to logic board.
    • Grasp the Interposer with tweezers.

    • An interposer is the name for an interface that links one electrical connection to another. In this repair, it is the board connecting the battery to logic board.

    • Lift the Interposer off the logic board and remove it.

    • Removing this board will ensure that the battery remains disconnected throughout your repair, preventing your computer from accidentally powering on. It's also a good idea to take it out so it doesn't fall out unexpectedly.

    How can I remove interposer I m not able to remove it

    Raunak - Yanıt

    you must lift it absolutely vertically, or it fouls against the locator pin in the corner- you can easily get the impression that it won’t come over the end of this pin- almost like it’s rivetted in. it isn’t. get a good grip on it with the tweezers in the centre hole & one of the sides, & lift it STRAIGHT up.

    duncan rmi -

  9. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right side of the I/O board data cable connector up off its socket on the I/O board. When prying the I/O board data cable connector from its socket, make sure to pry the connector itself and not the socket. Prying the socket may cause irreversible damage to the I/O board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right side of the I/O board data cable connector up off its socket on the I/O board.

    • When prying the I/O board data cable connector from its socket, make sure to pry the connector itself and not the socket. Prying the socket may cause irreversible damage to the I/O board.

    I keep my fingernails fairly long, very handy for many computer repair jobs. This gives me 10 spudgers over which I have very fine muscular control. It is far easier to pop some of these tiny delicate MacBook parts loose with my nails.

    Ben Myers - Yanıt

    Skip this step. For an easier, lower-risk repair, go straight to step 15 and just fold the speaker out of the way.

    .A. - Yanıt

  10. Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the left side of the I/O board data cable connector. Gently twist the spudger to disconnect the I/O board data cable connector from its socket on the logic board.
    • Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the left side of the I/O board data cable connector.

    • Gently twist the spudger to disconnect the I/O board data cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

  11. Lift and remove the I/O board data cable from the MacBook Pro.
    • Lift and remove the I/O board data cable from the MacBook Pro.

  12. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the SSD cable connector up from its socket on the logic board. Move the SSD cable connector out of the way. Move the SSD cable connector out of the way.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the SSD cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Move the SSD cable connector out of the way.

    As per my comment on step 10, this is also not required. When you remove the SSD in step 22, you can just fold it over out of the way.

    .A. - Yanıt

  13. Wedge the pointed end of a spudger beneath the right speaker cable connector. Gently pry the right speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.
    • Wedge the pointed end of a spudger beneath the right speaker cable connector.

    • Gently pry the right speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the connector, not the socket itself.

    When reassembling be careful that the right speaker wire is flush against the battery. At first, it was slightly touching the airport/bluetooth board causing wifi and bluetooth to not work after restarting.

    Stu - Yanıt

  14. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case: One black 6.8 mm screw
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:

    • One black 6.8 mm screw

    • One silver 6.3 mm screw

    • One black 4.9 mm screw

    • The silver screw (in the corner) may be covered with a foam pad. If so, use your tweezers to peel it up and remove it.

    If you manage to misplace any screws, particularly one of the speaker retaining screws, look under the speakers - they are magnetic and great at hiding missing screws :)

    Peter Newman - Yanıt

  15. Lift and remove the right speaker out of the upper case. If necessary, de-route the right speaker cable from its channel in the upper case.
    • Lift and remove the right speaker out of the upper case.

    • If necessary, de-route the right speaker cable from its channel in the upper case.

    For those who don’t realize it, the speakers you are removing really are the plastic corner pieces that look like they’re just there to fill the space.

    S Cockerille - Yanıt

  16. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the headphone jack cable connector straight up off its socket on the logic board. Gently bend the headphone jack cable to 90° up from the logic board. Bending the headphone jack cable will allow you to disconnect the left speaker cable connector without having the headphone jack cable in the way.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the headphone jack cable connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

    • Gently bend the headphone jack cable to 90° up from the logic board.

    • Bending the headphone jack cable will allow you to disconnect the left speaker cable connector without having the headphone jack cable in the way.

    For an easier, lower-risk repair, skip this step and step 18 - go straight to step 19 and fold the speaker out of the way.

    .A. - Yanıt

  17. Wedge the tip of a spudger beneath the left speaker cable connector. Gently pry the left speaker cable connector  up off from its socket on the logic board.
    • Wedge the tip of a spudger beneath the left speaker cable connector.

    • Gently pry the left speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the connector, not the socket itself.

  18. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:

    • One black 6.8 mm screw

    • One silver 6.3 mm screw

    • One black 4.9 mm screw

    • The silver screw (in the corner) may be covered with a foam pad. If so, use your tweezers to peel it up and remove it.

    Be very careful on this step. If you aren’t you can snap the plastic on the corners where the screws go in. Remember to go slowly when spinning the screws back in, it doesn’t take gorilla torque to tighten them, just take it easy!

    Stacey Deel - Yanıt

  19. Lift and remove the left speaker out of the upper case. Lift and remove the left speaker out of the upper case.
    • Lift and remove the left speaker out of the upper case.

  20. Use your thumb or finger to bend the plastic spring bar on the SSD tray, freeing the two clips at the front side of the device. While holding the spring bar depressed, tilt the SSD assembly up out of its cavity. While holding the spring bar depressed, tilt the SSD assembly up out of its cavity.
    • Use your thumb or finger to bend the plastic spring bar on the SSD tray, freeing the two clips at the front side of the device.

    • While holding the spring bar depressed, tilt the SSD assembly up out of its cavity.

  21. Remove the SSD assembly from the upper case.
    • Remove the SSD assembly from the upper case.

  22. Remove three 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws from each side of the battery (six screws total). Remove three 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws from each side of the battery (six screws total).
    • Remove three 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws from each side of the battery (six screws total).

    If I were to do this again, I think I would leave unbolting the transverse battery until after ungluing the other four. That way one can tip the laptop on to one of its short sides and so run adhesive remover along the long edge of each battery and let gravity assist penetration without the transverse battery falling out.

    John - Yanıt

  23. The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display.
    • The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display.

    • To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.

    You can use a heat gun to remove the adhesive. Remember you can always add more heat so don’t over do it. I put my heat gun on high for less than 10 seconds at a time

    BRUCEL86 - Yanıt

    Using a heat gun on a lithium-ion battery is not a good idea. You can get away with it if you are careful, but a solvent is much safer. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

  24. Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself. iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.
    • Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself.

    • iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.

    • Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)

    • Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

    • Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

  25. Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover. Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip. This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.
    • Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.

    • Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip.

    • This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.

    • Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.

    • Cutting close to the narrow tip will give you better control so you can apply the adhesive remover in small amounts.

    • Twist and close the bottle cap securely before you proceed further.

  26. Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly under the edge of the leftmost battery cell.
    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly under the edge of the leftmost battery cell.

    • You don't need to use very much. The small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all the battery cells.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.

    If you use a heat gun be sure to point the heat gun away from the motherboard. After heating for 10 seconds or less use the blunt end of the metal pry tool as you don’t want to puncture the battery. You don’t need much force as after you have enough heat you will hear it unsticking when you pry at it lightly with the BLUNT end of the metal pry tool. Repeat this step on the other side. You don’t need to heat the cells near the motherboard as they are secured with small screws

    BRUCEL86 - Yanıt

    I replace a lot of glued in Macbook batteries and you really do not need ISO to get them out. These wide blade plastic spudgers are brilliant and cheap. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32824615... Image here https://imgur.com/a/0Y0Yvyj

    Peter Newman - Yanıt

    Some good advice:

    Use a iFixit plastic card/credit card (work from the short side of the computer) and stick it under the battery towards the glue strip and hold the card approx 45° (or whatever angle is appropriate) and drip the glue remover on the card so it slides/runs down the card underneath the battery. In this way the glue remover is aimed straight to the glue under the battery to ‘eat its way’ onto the glue. Let it do its job for a minute or two. Then you can dig in the card even more underneath (the angle of the card will obviously be less and less as you get further in; the idea is just to somehow slide the liquid under), add a bit more remover, dig a bit more, etc…

    Otherwise the glue remover can get a bit all over the place but this way it is more easily directed towards the glue.

    Johan Nilsson - Yanıt

    Goo Gone, applied with a pipette, is a non-flammable alternative solution for releasing the adhesive that won’t harm plastics if it seeps past the battery cavities. It does take a bit longer, 30-45 mins, but is much safer. An additional benefit is that the adhesive will be completely separated from the top-case, so cleanup is super quick.

    John Grzeskowiak - Yanıt

    Hi John,

    We don’t recommend using Goo Gone because it’s a petroleum distillate based remover, which leaves an oily residue. The residue can prevent replacement adhesive from fully bonding with the surface. Be sure to clean any Goo Gone surface with a detergent-based cleaner.

    Isopropyl alcohol and iFixit’s adhesive remover are formulated to evaporate quickly and leave little residue, which allows replacement adhesive to bond properly to the surface.

    Arthur Shi -

  27. Insert the flat edge of a spudger or plastic card underneath the leftmost battery cell. Run your tool along the bottom perimeter of the battery cell and lift to begin separating the adhesive. Run your tool along the bottom perimeter of the battery cell and lift to begin separating the adhesive.
    • Insert the flat edge of a spudger or plastic card underneath the leftmost battery cell.

    • Run your tool along the bottom perimeter of the battery cell and lift to begin separating the adhesive.

    This is the most difficult step. The tip of my spudger got bended and the aluminum case damaged it.

    Ahmed Almulhim - Yanıt

    I also broke a spudger trying to do this. Eventually I figured out it is easier to go in diagonally from the corner, just to one side of the screw hole, and lever until you hear the adhesive pad tear and give way.

    Matt Sephton - Yanıt

    we use a hair dryer and gently blow hot air in between the battery for a good minute before trying to lift it with a spunger. It worked wonderfully! When lifting, just give it constant force upward and you'll hear the battery slowly breaking away from the macbook, and we don't even see glue residues on our macbook at all. Just be patient. :)

    Allen Lin - Yanıt

    Just a note to say that the above comments were written before the liquid adhesive remover was added to the guide—you should definitely NOT be breaking any spudgers using the current procedure, which requires very little force. I recommend using plastic cards rather than spudgers—it's pretty easy to slide them under each battery cell and separate the adhesive once the solvent has done its work.

    Jeff Suovanen - Yanıt

    This is much easier to do using a plastic card. Just slide the card under the side of the battery and rock it back and forth. The battery will separate pretty quickly with minimal residue.

    lukecparr -

    by a plastic card, do you mean a credit card type thing? thanks in advance.

    Jennifer McPherson - Yanıt

    Exactly—one of these or an old credit card should work fine.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I second this, I also used an old credit card and it totally worked! I did not use any heat or liquid

    yas.siqueira - Yanıt

    Some good advice:

    Use a iFixit plastic card/credit card (work from the short side of the computer) and stick it under the battery towards the glue strip and hold the card approx 45° (or whatever angle is appropriate) and drip the glue remover on the card so it slides/runs down the card underneath the battery. In this way the glue remover is aimed straight to the glue under the battery to ‘eat its way’ onto the glue. Let it do its job for a minute or two. Then you can dig in the card even more underneath (the angle of the card will obviously be less and less as you get further in; the idea is just to somehow slide the liquid under), add a bit more remover, dig a bit more, etc…

    Otherwise the glue remover can get a bit all over the place but this way it is more easily directed towards the glue.

    Johan Nilsson - Yanıt

  28. Insert the spudger along the left-hand side of the leftmost battery cell. Run the spudger up along the left side of the leftmost battery cell. Slightly pry the leftmost battery cell to release it from the adhesive.
    • Insert the spudger along the left-hand side of the leftmost battery cell.

    • Run the spudger up along the left side of the leftmost battery cell.

    • Slightly pry the leftmost battery cell to release it from the adhesive.

  29. Repeat the above steps to separate the adjacent battery cell from its adhesive: Apply a few drops of liquid adhesive remover under the battery cell. Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate and soften the adhesive.
    • Repeat the above steps to separate the adjacent battery cell from its adhesive:

    • Apply a few drops of liquid adhesive remover under the battery cell.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate and soften the adhesive.

    • Carefully wedge a spudger or plastic card inwards, being careful to not damage the battery, and separate the battery cell from the adhesive securing it to your MacBook Pro.

  30. Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the larger leftmost battery cell. Carefully wedge the spudger inwards, being careful to not damage the battery cells. Pry the larger leftmost battery cell up off the upper case.
    • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the larger leftmost battery cell.

    • Carefully wedge the spudger inwards, being careful to not damage the battery cells.

    • Pry the larger leftmost battery cell up off the upper case.

  31. Grasp the battery cells and gently move (but do not remove) them from their recess in the upper case. Leave the battery cells resting on top of the upper case as shown in the third picture. Leave the battery cells resting on top of the upper case as shown in the third picture.
    • Grasp the battery cells and gently move (but do not remove) them from their recess in the upper case.

    • Leave the battery cells resting on top of the upper case as shown in the third picture.

  32. Switch sides and repeat the above procedure for the two battery cells on the right-hand side of the MacBook Pro. Remember to add a small amount of liquid adhesive remover under each battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate before prying up the cell. Be careful not to puncture or otherwise damage the battery cells.
    • Switch sides and repeat the above procedure for the two battery cells on the right-hand side of the MacBook Pro.

    • Remember to add a small amount of liquid adhesive remover under each battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate before prying up the cell.

    • Be careful not to puncture or otherwise damage the battery cells.

    Puncturing the battery’s protective covering can lead to release of caustic fumes or fire.

    Chris Leeds - Yanıt

  33. Lift the battery as a whole up out of the upper case, and remove the battery. Before installing a new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case. With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers.
    • Lift the battery as a whole up out of the upper case, and remove the battery.

    • Before installing a new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.

    • With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers.

    • Otherwise, soak each section of adhesive with a bit of adhesive remover for 2-3 minutes, and then scrape it out with an opening pick or one of the other tools in your kit. This can take quite a bit of work, so be patient.

    • Mop up any remaining adhesive remover and give your MacBook Pro a few minutes to air dry.

    • The replacement battery included in your iFixit kit comes with adhesive pre-installed. Test the battery's fit and alignment carefully before peeling off the film covering the adhesive, and then press each cell firmly into place. If any additional films/liners are present that weren't on your original battery, remove them now.

    • Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

    • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook Pro's SMC.

    During battery replacement take care to position the two left and right battery packs inwards and upwards towards the macbook center such, that there is sufficient space for reinstallation of the two speakers!

    Fred Ziegler - Yanıt

    I second Fred’s suggestion. I had to “smoosh” the right speaker in since my battery replacement was a little bit too far over. It was fine, but the “heads up” note is warranted.

    David Ryan -

    If you're replacing the top case that includes a new battery, can't you skip removal of the battery?

    jaredcastello - Yanıt

    Yes!! If uppercase Assembly(Includes Trackpad, keyboard, Palmrest & BATTERY) is being replaced, there is no need to remove battery from old uppercase assembly.

    lamajr -

    When you are at this step and before you put the new battery in, take the time to clean your computer really well. You will be surprised how much dust/dirt and even pet hairs have gotten into your computer. After I removed the battery, I use a little more of the acetone to clean the bays up and after it dried, I used a tiny bit of Isopropyl Alcohol to make sure there was a good clean area for the new bonding. Make sure you clean the fans. Don’t use a toothbrush or anything like that. If your have a Lowes or Home Depot, you can buy a shop vac attachment kit for about $20, it’s well worth it. Don’t use that air in a can crap, it will put moisture on circuits. Take your time, it’s not a hard task to do everything, just use a little patience.

    Stacey Deel - Yanıt

    Hi all,

    After installing the new batteries, my mac is not powering up… Do i need to charge the battery first and then check again? Have anyone faced similar issue before?

    My 1st battery from ifixit came out to be defective and it caused fire at the centre of the long battery. I have got a replacement for the defective piece which i have installed now. However, now i am worried that connecting to power could lead to any potential fire / harm to my mac???

    Already i have spent lot of time in this and it would be very upsetting if this battery spoils my mac!!!

    Any suggestion people???? thanks in advance!

    BR,

    Vijay

    Vijayaprasath Rajendran - Yanıt

    Hi Vijay!

    Uh-oh, we’re sorry to hear about the battery trouble!

    Our batteries come with a 1-year warranty, so this would definitely be something we can assist with. Please feel welcome to reach out via help.ifixit.com and provide our Support team with your order number so that they can look into these battery troubles with you.

    Thanks!

    Kadan Sharpe -

    Hi All,

    Just replaced battery, and am typing this on the live MacBook. The unit fired up as soon as I plugged in the power adapter. Nice. The battery percentage indicator said the battery had approximately 85% power charge. Is this normal? If not, what steps should I take to ensure that this battery is properly calibrated?

    Cheers,

    James

    James Pineda - Yanıt

    Hi James,

    Follow these steps to calibrate your new battery: https://help.ifixit.com/article/265-batt...

    Sam Omiotek -

    日本語翻訳ありがとうございます。大変分かりやすかったです。

    1点だけ、下記タイプミスだと思います。

    カリブレーション→キャリブレーション

    kazika - Yanıt

    ご指摘ありがとうございました!訂正済みです。

    Midori Doi -

    Can someone tell me which model is written in the battery? I saw that is written the model a1437. Is this model compatible with the a1425? Thanks

    mizuno.doss - Yanıt

    Hi Mizuno,

    The battery model is A1437, and it is compatible with the MacBook Pro model A1425.

    Arthur Shi -

    These instructions are brilliantly concise! Thank you. And thank you everyone for your comments. As a final comment from me, it is much easier to assess the final position of the batteries if you place them gently in position, reinstall the speakers, adjust the battery position if needed and then press them firmly into place.

    John - Yanıt

  34. Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    It looks like you could skip the entire battery removal procedure if you simply left the trackpad cable in place, disconnected it at the trackpad end, and used the old cable on the new trackpad?

    John M - Yanıt

    You could try it, but there’s very little slack in that cable. I think you’ll have a hard time disconnecting the trackpad without straining or tearing the cable.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  35. Grasp the plastic pull tab and pull the trackpad ribbon cable out of its socket. Grasp the plastic pull tab and pull the trackpad ribbon cable out of its socket.
    • Grasp the plastic pull tab and pull the trackpad ribbon cable out of its socket.

  36. Wedge the spudger between the trackpad ribbon cable and the upper case. Run the spudger along the bottom to release the trackpad ribbon cable from the adhesive securing it to the upper case.
    • Wedge the spudger between the trackpad ribbon cable and the upper case.

    • Run the spudger along the bottom to release the trackpad ribbon cable from the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

  37. Insert the tip of a spudger in between the trackpad ribbon cable and the upper case inside the SSD assembly cavity to remove the last of the adhesive. Insert the tip of a spudger in between the trackpad ribbon cable and the upper case inside the SSD assembly cavity to remove the last of the adhesive.
    • Insert the tip of a spudger in between the trackpad ribbon cable and the upper case inside the SSD assembly cavity to remove the last of the adhesive.

  38. Using the tip of the spudger carefully thread the trackpad ribbon cable out of the notch near the top of the SSD assembly cavity. Using the tip of the spudger carefully thread the trackpad ribbon cable out of the notch near the top of the SSD assembly cavity. Using the tip of the spudger carefully thread the trackpad ribbon cable out of the notch near the top of the SSD assembly cavity.
    • Using the tip of the spudger carefully thread the trackpad ribbon cable out of the notch near the top of the SSD assembly cavity.

  39. Remove the following screws securing the trackpad brackets to the trackpad and upper case:
    • Remove the following screws securing the trackpad brackets to the trackpad and upper case:

    • Four 1.9 mm Phillips #000 screws

    • Four 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws

  40. Use tweezers to remove the two trackpad mounting brackets from the upper case. Use tweezers to remove the two trackpad mounting brackets from the upper case. Use tweezers to remove the two trackpad mounting brackets from the upper case.
    • Use tweezers to remove the two trackpad mounting brackets from the upper case.

  41. To avoid scratching the display, open the computer about 90º and set it on end. Guide the trackpad ribbon cable through the slot cut in the upper case. This will push the trackpad up out of its recess in the top of the upper case. Guide the trackpad out with your other hand, so it doesn't fall.
    • To avoid scratching the display, open the computer about 90º and set it on end.

    • Guide the trackpad ribbon cable through the slot cut in the upper case. This will push the trackpad up out of its recess in the top of the upper case. Guide the trackpad out with your other hand, so it doesn't fall.

  42. Gently pull the trackpad from the upper case, being careful not to snag the ribbon cable. Gently pull the trackpad from the upper case, being careful not to snag the ribbon cable. Gently pull the trackpad from the upper case, being careful not to snag the ribbon cable.
    • Gently pull the trackpad from the upper case, being careful not to snag the ribbon cable.

Sonuç

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Sam Goldheart

Üyelik tarihi: 18-10-2012

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Hi!

I have a Macbook Pro Retina 15-Inch Early 2013. Is it a similar procedure for this laptop with a larger screen (15" versus yours 13")?

kisakuski87 - Yanıt

We've got guides for the 15" Early 2013, unfortunately, removing the battery in the 15" is significantly harder, you can follow the upper case guide to get most of the way and either replace the whole upper case (and get a new battery included), or use this guide to try to get the rest of the way. Best of luck!

Sam Goldheart -

I just wanted to say this worked for me, thank you for the walkthrough! My trackpad just suddenly died one day out of the blue. I thought it might be a lose cable, but ordered a replacement just in case. No loose cables, simple swap out did the trick. This walkthrough is very good. Only thing I'd warn the feint of heart is the removal of the batteries can be intense because they are glued in. You really need the right tool to work it free. I think the battery removal took at least 20 minutes alone!

Anyone, thanks again for your help!

andrewjripley - Yanıt

Excellent write up. Three suggestions which i uncovered when i followed this procedure:

Step 5 - The silver shouldered screw was a T6 Torx, not a T7. On this basis, I didn't need a T7 Torx screwdriver for this procedure.

Step 15 & 19 - To remove the corner screws (the heads of which aren't immediately visible), you need to carefully remove the covering mesh with tweezers

Step 44 - Reposition of trackpad. I found that when putting the trackpad back in place during reassembly, it was tricky to get it in exactly the right position (perfectly centralised). I found that taking four small pieces of paper and folding them in half helped. I wedged a piece of folded paper in between the four sides of the trackpad and then tightened the screws. Once the screws are tightened, you can simply remove the paper.

Sunil Dhiman - Yanıt

This guide wasted a bit of my time! Removing the speakers and the battery are unnecessary. The top piece of the battery can be lifted to reveal the trackpad cable once the screws at the sides are removed.

just1ed - Yanıt

Agreed. Totally unnecessary and super messy to deal with the battery adhesive just to get to the trackpad. Please update this guide!

David Perlman -

H! Many thanks for this helpful manual. Everything was well except when I was reassembling the laptop I got stuck on Steps 34-35 - how do I connect back the trackpad? Didn't get how to fix the wire to the socket. You advice is much appreciated

Alejandro - Yanıt

I also skipped the part where the batteries were removed, it was easy to replace the trackpad with batteries still attached - I only had to lift the upper battery a bit. Thanks for the guide, was extremely helpful.

michaelf - Yanıt

Hi I purchased the new trackpad from Ifixit for my early 2013 MBP retina. The included cable is almost 1/2 inch shorter than the original. Did they ship me the wrong part (even though the part number matches what they are selling?)???

ryan garrett - Yanıt

Hi Ryan! Sorry to hear about the trouble! Our Support team is here to assist. If you’re still worried about this trackpad working for you, please reach out to them via help.ifixit.com so that they can look into this with you.

Kadan Sharpe -

As mentioned by just1ed in 2016, it’s not necessary to remove the battery assembly. Simply removing the 6 screws of the upper battery row and then gently lifting forward allows more than enough access to the trackpad signal cable.

Graham Callaway - Yanıt

Hi,  the left click on my trackpad stopped working. Keyboard was still working, after trying all software resets, I thought I should try to probably change the trackpad and was going to order the parts on iFixit, but before that wanted to see if I can open up the laptop and follow the above steps. All went well, however when I tried to remove the retaining flap (step 35 above), the flap came out fully. now even with the trackpad ribbon cable inserted (without the retaining flap), the keyboard is also not working.   The questions I have are

1) do I need to retaining flap for any other reason other than to secure the ribbon, will the laptop work even without the retaining flap

2) how do I put the retaining flap back in ?

3) does the keyboard and mouse use the same trackpad ribbon ?  why did the keyboard stop working now ?

Appreciate any and all responses . I would like to go ahead and order the parts on ifixit, but need to be clear on what I am doing

Kris123 - Yanıt

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