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MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement

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  1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement, Lower Case: adım 1, 1 resimden 1.
    Bu adımda kullanılan alet:
    Magnetic Project Mat
    $19.95
    Satın Al
    • Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:

    • Two 2.3 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Eight 3.0 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    If don’t have one of those neat project mats, then you can use small pieces of flattened blu-tack to hold the screws. If you arrange them in the shape of your mac book cover, and put the screws down methodically, you can get a one-to-one mapping of the screws to the correct screw holes.

    Toby Thurston - Yanıt

    Or you can use an ice tray where you put the screws and the parts in separate bays in the same order as they come in the instructions.

    timofej.se -

    This is great! I used a small magnetic white board, and wrote on it to identify the parts as I went. This whole process, from the fast shipment to the great instructions to the complete, high quality, tool kit has been great. I’m typing this comment on my resurrected laptop. Thank you! Sue

    Susan Greer - Yanıt

    It would be a good idea if people recorded in the comments which screws go where so that, if someone lost their screw positions, they could recover them from the comments.

    Raymond Shpeley - Yanıt

  2. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 2, 1 resimden 1.
    • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case.

    • Gently pull the lower case away from the upper case.

    • Remove the lower case and set it aside.

  3. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 3, 3 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 3, 3 resimden 2. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 3, 3 resimden 3.
    • During reassembly, gently push down the center of the lower case to reattach the two plastic clips.

    • The lower case is connected to the upper case at the center, with two plastic clips.

  4. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement, Battery Connector: adım 4, 1 resimden 1.
    • Remove the plastic cover adhered to the battery contact board.

    The replacement cover doesn't seem to have the formed pads attached. I re-installed the original.

    Adrien - Yanıt

  5. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 5, 1 resimden 1.
    • Remove the following screws securing the battery connector board to the logic board:

    • Two 2.8 mm T6 Torx screws

    • One 7.0 mm T6 Torx shouldered screw

  6. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 6, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 6, 2 resimden 2.
    • Use tweezers to remove the small plastic cover located near the bottom right of the battery connector board.

    Is adhered to screw beneath, so lift firmly and slowly.

    Andrew - Yanıt

    when doing this with metal tweezers as instructed in the video, it was difficult to get off and apparently while i was trying to do it, the tweezers went too far under and i believe made contact with the screw underneath? there was a zzz noise, an orange flicker and a little stream of smoke that came out. i freaked out and put everything back together to see if the laptop even still worked, it turned on and everything but died right away (i drained it before doing the repair anyway, so i was surprised it turned on at all).

    i finished the battery repair and did several other things while in there. i have charged it all the way as recommended and will use it later on to see how everything is, im hoping that it’s a okay, but could someone explain to me what happened and the possible consequences?

    Kait D - Yanıt

  7. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 7, 1 resimden 1.
    • Remove the wide head 6.4 mm T6 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board assembly.

    When reinstalling, be careful that the board lines up correctly and is completely seated in order for this screw to thread properly.

    Adrien - Yanıt

  8. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 8, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 8, 2 resimden 2.
    • Carefully lift the battery connector board up off the logic board.

    • It is recommended to bend the battery cables just slightly, to keep the board suspended up above the logic board and out of the way.

    • Do not fold the board completely over, or crease the cables, as this may damage the battery.

  9. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement, Battery Contact Board: adım 9, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement, Battery Contact Board: adım 9, 2 resimden 2.
    • Grasp the Interposer with tweezers.

    • An interposer is the name for an interface that links one electrical connection to another. In this repair, it is the board connecting the battery to logic board.

    • Lift the Interposer off the logic board and remove it.

    • Removing this board will ensure that the battery remains disconnected throughout your repair, preventing your computer from accidentally powering on. It's also a good idea to take it out so it doesn't fall out unexpectedly.

    How can I remove interposer I m not able to remove it

    Raunak - Yanıt

    you must lift it absolutely vertically, or it fouls against the locator pin in the corner- you can easily get the impression that it won’t come over the end of this pin- almost like it’s rivetted in. it isn’t. get a good grip on it with the tweezers in the centre hole & one of the sides, & lift it STRAIGHT up.

    duncan rmi -

    I would recommend to use plastic tweezers in order to reduce risk of damage.

    Martin Sippel - Yanıt

    Second that. If you have thin heat shrink tubing, form some over the tweezer tips. If the tubing is thin and small enough in diameter you’ll see the serrations of the tweezer tips.

    Raymond Shpeley -

    wat is the model this SSD

    thierry.wilow - Yanıt

  10. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement, I/O Board Data Cable: adım 10, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement, I/O Board Data Cable: adım 10, 2 resimden 2.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the right side of the I/O board data cable connector up off its socket on the I/O board.

    • When prying the I/O board data cable connector from its socket, make sure to pry the connector itself and not the socket. Prying the socket may cause irreversible damage to the I/O board.

    I keep my fingernails fairly long, very handy for many computer repair jobs. This gives me 10 spudgers over which I have very fine muscular control. It is far easier to pop some of these tiny delicate MacBook parts loose with my nails.

    Ben Myers - Yanıt

    Skip this step. For an easier, lower-risk repair, go straight to step 15 and just fold the speaker out of the way.

    .A. - Yanıt

  11. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 11, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 11, 2 resimden 2.
    • Wedge the flat end of a spudger beneath the left side of the I/O board data cable connector.

    • Gently twist the spudger to disconnect the I/O board data cable connector from its socket on the logic board.

    I also skipped this step as this data cable is not compromising the exchange of battery and less interaction with connectors is less risk of damage..

    Diesen Schritt habe ich ebenfalls weggelassen, da das Datenkabel den Austausch der Batterie nicht behindert und weniger Manipulationen an Steckverbindern bedeutet ein geringeres Risiko für Beschädigungen

    Martin Sippel - Yanıt

  12. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 12, 1 resimden 1.
    • Lift and remove the I/O board data cable from the MacBook Pro.

    This step is useless. Could be skipped

    Pierre S. - Yanıt

  13. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement, Right Speaker: adım 13, 3 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement, Right Speaker: adım 13, 3 resimden 2. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement, Right Speaker: adım 13, 3 resimden 3.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the SSD cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Move the SSD cable connector out of the way.

    As per my comment on step 10, this is also not required. When you remove the SSD in step 22, you can just fold it over out of the way.

    .A. - Yanıt

    This step is easy enough that I’d just remove it to be out of the way. I 100% agree with your other comments though. While you’re here, might as well do step 21 and remove the drive, just takes a sec.

    maccentric -

    I also strongly recommend not to unmount the speaker plugs, just flip them out of the way, same as with the SSD drive. Makes it much less complicated and less risky. It worked perfect for me.

    Ich empfehle ebenfalls, die Platinenstecker der Lautsprecher nicht zu lösen sondern die Lautsprecher einfach, so wie das SSD-Laufwerk, einfach aus dem Weg zu legen. Das macht die Sache weniger kompliziert und weniger risikoreich. Es hat bei mir super funktioniert!

    Martin Sippel - Yanıt

  14. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 14, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 14, 2 resimden 2.
    • Wedge the pointed end of a spudger beneath the right speaker cable connector.

    • Gently pry the right speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the connector, not the socket itself.

    When reassembling be careful that the right speaker wire is flush against the battery. At first, it was slightly touching the airport/bluetooth board causing wifi and bluetooth to not work after restarting.

    Stu - Yanıt

  15. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 15, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 15, 2 resimden 2.
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following screws securing the right speaker to the upper case:

    • One black 6.8 mm screw

    • One silver 6.3 mm screw

    • One black 4.9 mm screw

    • The silver screw (in the corner) may be covered with a foam pad. If so, use your tweezers to peel it up and remove it.

    If you manage to misplace any screws, particularly one of the speaker retaining screws, look under the speakers - they are magnetic and great at hiding missing screws :)

    Peter Newman - Yanıt

  16. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 16, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 16, 2 resimden 2.
    • Lift and remove the right speaker out of the upper case.

    • If necessary, de-route the right speaker cable from its channel in the upper case.

    For those who don’t realize it, the speakers you are removing really are the plastic corner pieces that look like they’re just there to fill the space.

    S Cockerille - Yanıt

  17. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement, Left Speaker: adım 17, 3 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement, Left Speaker: adım 17, 3 resimden 2. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement, Left Speaker: adım 17, 3 resimden 3.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the headphone jack cable connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

    • Gently bend the headphone jack cable to 90° up from the logic board.

    • Bending the headphone jack cable will allow you to disconnect the left speaker cable connector without having the headphone jack cable in the way.

    For an easier, lower-risk repair, skip this step and step 18 - go straight to step 19 and fold the speaker out of the way.

    .A. - Yanıt

    Agreed, this is the way

    maccentric -

  18. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 18, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 18, 2 resimden 2.
    • Wedge the tip of a spudger beneath the left speaker cable connector.

    • Gently pry the left speaker cable connector up off from its socket on the logic board.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the connector, not the socket itself.

    It's easier to follow Step 19 & 20 first and then come to Step 18 (this step). Doing so will make it easier to remove that speaker connector easily holding the cable of speaker without having to use a pry tool.

    Johhnie Doe - Yanıt

  19. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 19, 1 resimden 1.
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the following screws securing the left speaker to the upper case:

    • One black 6.8 mm screw

    • One silver 6.3 mm screw

    • One black 4.9 mm screw

    • The silver screw (in the corner) may be covered with a foam pad. If so, use your tweezers to peel it up and remove it.

    Be very careful on this step. If you aren’t you can snap the plastic on the corners where the screws go in. Remember to go slowly when spinning the screws back in, it doesn’t take gorilla torque to tighten them, just take it easy!

    Stacey Deel - Yanıt

  20. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 20, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 20, 2 resimden 2.
    • Lift and remove the left speaker out of the upper case.

  21. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement, SSD Assembly: adım 21, 3 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement, SSD Assembly: adım 21, 3 resimden 2. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement, SSD Assembly: adım 21, 3 resimden 3.
    • Use your thumb or finger to bend the plastic spring bar on the SSD tray, freeing the two clips at the front side of the device.

    • While holding the spring bar depressed, tilt the SSD assembly up out of its cavity.

  22. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 22, 1 resimden 1.
    • Remove the SSD assembly from the upper case.

  23. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement, Battery: adım 23, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement, Battery: adım 23, 2 resimden 2.
    • Remove three 2.2 mm T5 Torx screws from each side of the battery (six screws total).

    If I were to do this again, I think I would leave unbolting the transverse battery until after ungluing the other four. That way one can tip the laptop on to one of its short sides and so run adhesive remover along the long edge of each battery and let gravity assist penetration without the transverse battery falling out.

    John - Yanıt

    I think this is good advice.

    maccentric -

    I just did one of these that didn’t have these screws installed from the factory. Odd

    maccentric - Yanıt

  24. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 24, 1 resimden 1.
    • The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can affect the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display.

    • To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.

    You can use a heat gun to remove the adhesive. Remember you can always add more heat so don’t over do it. I put my heat gun on high for less than 10 seconds at a time

    BRUCEL86 - Yanıt

    Using a heat gun on a lithium-ion battery is not a good idea. You can get away with it if you are careful, but a solvent is much safer. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

  25. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 25, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 25, 2 resimden 2.
    • Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself.

    • iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.

    • Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)

    • Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

    • Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

  26. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 26, 3 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 26, 3 resimden 2. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 26, 3 resimden 3.
    • Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.

    • Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip.

    • This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.

    • Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.

    • Cutting close to the narrow tip will give you better control so you can apply the adhesive remover in small amounts.

    • Twist and close the bottle cap securely before you proceed further.

    The new applicator tip doesn't need to be cut as indicated in the instructions. Instead, use a pin (one is provided in the battery replacement kit multi-tool handle) to puncture the tip, not forgetting to loosen the bottle cap to equalize pressure.

    Joe Smith - Yanıt

    Be careful! My applicator tip was already punctured.

    Adrien - Yanıt

  27. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 27, 1 resimden 1.
    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover evenly under the edge of the leftmost battery cell.

    • You don't need to use very much. The small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all the battery cells.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.

    If you use a heat gun be sure to point the heat gun away from the motherboard. After heating for 10 seconds or less use the blunt end of the metal pry tool as you don’t want to puncture the battery. You don’t need much force as after you have enough heat you will hear it unsticking when you pry at it lightly with the BLUNT end of the metal pry tool. Repeat this step on the other side. You don’t need to heat the cells near the motherboard as they are secured with small screws

    BRUCEL86 - Yanıt

    I replace a lot of glued in Macbook batteries and you really do not need ISO to get them out. These wide blade plastic spudgers are brilliant and cheap. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32824615... Image here https://imgur.com/a/0Y0Yvyj

    Peter Newman - Yanıt

    May not need it to remove the battery, but it sure helps for removing the leftover residue and black VHB that’s left behind. I found that dousing the VHB and using a metal flat spatula helped.

    maccentric -

    Some good advice:

    Use a iFixit plastic card/credit card (work from the short side of the computer) and stick it under the battery towards the glue strip and hold the card approx 45° (or whatever angle is appropriate) and drip the glue remover on the card so it slides/runs down the card underneath the battery. In this way the glue remover is aimed straight to the glue under the battery to ‘eat its way’ onto the glue. Let it do its job for a minute or two. Then you can dig in the card even more underneath (the angle of the card will obviously be less and less as you get further in; the idea is just to somehow slide the liquid under), add a bit more remover, dig a bit more, etc…

    Otherwise the glue remover can get a bit all over the place but this way it is more easily directed towards the glue.

    Johan Nilsson - Yanıt

    Goo Gone, applied with a pipette, is a non-flammable alternative solution for releasing the adhesive that won’t harm plastics if it seeps past the battery cavities. It does take a bit longer, 30-45 mins, but is much safer. An additional benefit is that the adhesive will be completely separated from the top-case, so cleanup is super quick.

    John Grzeskowiak - Yanıt

    Hi John,

    We don’t recommend using Goo Gone because it’s a petroleum distillate based remover, which leaves an oily residue. The residue can prevent replacement adhesive from fully bonding with the surface. Be sure to clean any Goo Gone surface with a detergent-based cleaner.

    Isopropyl alcohol and iFixit’s adhesive remover are formulated to evaporate quickly and leave little residue, which allows replacement adhesive to bond properly to the surface.

    Arthur Shi -

    Note, per my later cleanup, I found that 2-3 drops may not be enough, or else, 2-3 minutes is too long to wait before trying to pry. Once the remover starts to dry, it is not as easy to work the adhesive. I ended up using maybe 1/10 of the bottle overall and most of that was liberally dousing the residue a few times to fully clean the case.

    Adrien - Yanıt

  28. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 28, 3 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 28, 3 resimden 2. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 28, 3 resimden 3.
    Bu adımda kullanılan alet:
    Plastic Cards
    $2.99
    Satın Al
    • Insert the flat edge of a spudger or plastic card underneath the leftmost battery cell.

    • Run your tool along the bottom perimeter of the battery cell and lift to begin separating the adhesive.

    This is the most difficult step. The tip of my spudger got bended and the aluminum case damaged it.

    Ahmed Almulhim - Yanıt

    I also broke a spudger trying to do this. Eventually I figured out it is easier to go in diagonally from the corner, just to one side of the screw hole, and lever until you hear the adhesive pad tear and give way.

    Matt Sephton - Yanıt

    we use a hair dryer and gently blow hot air in between the battery for a good minute before trying to lift it with a spunger. It worked wonderfully! When lifting, just give it constant force upward and you'll hear the battery slowly breaking away from the macbook, and we don't even see glue residues on our macbook at all. Just be patient. :)

    Allen Lin - Yanıt

    Just a note to say that the above comments were written before the liquid adhesive remover was added to the guide—you should definitely NOT be breaking any spudgers using the current procedure, which requires very little force. I recommend using plastic cards rather than spudgers—it's pretty easy to slide them under each battery cell and separate the adhesive once the solvent has done its work.

    Jeff Suovanen - Yanıt

    This is much easier to do using a plastic card. Just slide the card under the side of the battery and rock it back and forth. The battery will separate pretty quickly with minimal residue.

    lukecparr -

    by a plastic card, do you mean a credit card type thing? thanks in advance.

    Jennifer McPherson - Yanıt

    Exactly—one of these or an old credit card should work fine.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I second this, I also used an old credit card and it totally worked! I did not use any heat or liquid

    yas.siqueira - Yanıt

    Some good advice:

    Use a iFixit plastic card/credit card (work from the short side of the computer) and stick it under the battery towards the glue strip and hold the card approx 45° (or whatever angle is appropriate) and drip the glue remover on the card so it slides/runs down the card underneath the battery. In this way the glue remover is aimed straight to the glue under the battery to ‘eat its way’ onto the glue. Let it do its job for a minute or two. Then you can dig in the card even more underneath (the angle of the card will obviously be less and less as you get further in; the idea is just to somehow slide the liquid under), add a bit more remover, dig a bit more, etc…

    Otherwise the glue remover can get a bit all over the place but this way it is more easily directed towards the glue.

    Johan Nilsson - Yanıt

    I attacked it from the longest side using the plastic card after initially sticking in the spudger. encountered some resistance so I reapplied the adhesive remover and went in with a plastic card. hardest step to me was cleaning up the adhesive remnants

    C C - Yanıt

    My MBP identifies as late 2012/early 2013, and don’t know where you come up with a separate identity.

    Looking at both disassembly procedures, neither shows the aftermarket (probably NewerTech or OWC) battery I found in this MBP.

    That’s disconcerting; finds one asking myself - “Am I using the right procedure??”

    if you know this might be the case, please add note to this step if the user finds only 4 physical cased batteries.

    Tnx!

    prreitz - Yanıt

    Use the plastic credit-card shaped card.

    Dennis Carpio - Yanıt

  29. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 29, 3 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 29, 3 resimden 2. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 29, 3 resimden 3.
    • Insert the spudger along the left-hand side of the leftmost battery cell.

    • Run the spudger up along the left side of the leftmost battery cell.

    • Slightly pry the leftmost battery cell to release it from the adhesive.

  30. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 30, 3 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 30, 3 resimden 2. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 30, 3 resimden 3.
    • Repeat the above steps to separate the adjacent battery cell from its adhesive:

    • Apply a few drops of liquid adhesive remover under the battery cell.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate and soften the adhesive.

    • Carefully wedge a spudger or plastic card inwards, being careful to not damage the battery, and separate the battery cell from the adhesive securing it to your MacBook Pro.

  31. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 31, 3 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 31, 3 resimden 2. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 31, 3 resimden 3.
    • Insert the flat end of a spudger underneath the larger leftmost battery cell.

    • Carefully wedge the spudger inwards, being careful to not damage the battery cells.

    • Pry the larger leftmost battery cell up off the upper case.

  32. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 32, 3 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 32, 3 resimden 2. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 32, 3 resimden 3.
    • Grasp the battery cells and gently move (but do not remove) them from their recess in the upper case.

    • Leave the battery cells resting on top of the upper case as shown in the third picture.

  33. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 33, 3 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 33, 3 resimden 2. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 33, 3 resimden 3.
    • Switch sides and repeat the above procedure for the two battery cells on the right-hand side of the MacBook Pro.

    • Remember to add a small amount of liquid adhesive remover under each battery cell, and wait 2-3 minutes for it to penetrate before prying up the cell.

    • Be careful not to puncture or otherwise damage the battery cells.

    Puncturing the battery’s protective covering can lead to release of caustic fumes or fire.

    Chris Leeds - Yanıt

  34. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 34, 3 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 34, 3 resimden 2. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 34, 3 resimden 3.
    • Lift the battery as a whole up out of the upper case, and remove the battery.

    • Before installing a new battery, remove all the old adhesive from the MacBook Pro's case.

    • With a little luck, you can slowly pull out each strip of adhesive with your fingers.

    • Otherwise, soak each section of adhesive with a bit of adhesive remover for 2-3 minutes, and then scrape it out with an opening pick or one of the other tools in your kit. This can take quite a bit of work, so be patient.

    • Mop up any remaining adhesive remover and give your MacBook Pro a few minutes to air dry.

    • The replacement battery included in your iFixit kit comes with adhesive pre-installed. Test the battery's fit and alignment carefully before peeling off the film covering the adhesive, and then press each cell firmly into place. If any additional films/liners are present that weren't on your original battery, remove them now.

    • Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

    • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook Pro's SMC.

    During battery replacement take care to position the two left and right battery packs inwards and upwards towards the macbook center such, that there is sufficient space for reinstallation of the two speakers!

    Fred Ziegler - Yanıt

    I second Fred’s suggestion. I had to “smoosh” the right speaker in since my battery replacement was a little bit too far over. It was fine, but the “heads up” note is warranted.

    David Ryan -

    If you're replacing the top case that includes a new battery, can't you skip removal of the battery?

    jaredcastello - Yanıt

    Yes!! If uppercase Assembly(Includes Trackpad, keyboard, Palmrest & BATTERY) is being replaced, there is no need to remove battery from old uppercase assembly.

    Macrepair SF -

    When you are at this step and before you put the new battery in, take the time to clean your computer really well. You will be surprised how much dust/dirt and even pet hairs have gotten into your computer. After I removed the battery, I use a little more of the acetone to clean the bays up and after it dried, I used a tiny bit of Isopropyl Alcohol to make sure there was a good clean area for the new bonding. Make sure you clean the fans. Don’t use a toothbrush or anything like that. If your have a Lowes or Home Depot, you can buy a shop vac attachment kit for about $20, it’s well worth it. Don’t use that air in a can crap, it will put moisture on circuits. Take your time, it’s not a hard task to do everything, just use a little patience.

    Stacey Deel - Yanıt

    Hi all,

    After installing the new batteries, my mac is not powering up… Do i need to charge the battery first and then check again? Have anyone faced similar issue before?

    My 1st battery from ifixit came out to be defective and it caused fire at the centre of the long battery. I have got a replacement for the defective piece which i have installed now. However, now i am worried that connecting to power could lead to any potential fire / harm to my mac???

    Already i have spent lot of time in this and it would be very upsetting if this battery spoils my mac!!!

    Any suggestion people???? thanks in advance!

    BR,

    Vijay

    Vijayaprasath Rajendran - Yanıt

    Hi Vijay!

    Uh-oh, we’re sorry to hear about the battery trouble!

    Our batteries come with a 1-year warranty, so this would definitely be something we can assist with. Please feel welcome to reach out via help.ifixit.com and provide our Support team with your order number so that they can look into these battery troubles with you.

    Thanks!

    Kadan Sharpe -

    Hi All,

    Just replaced battery, and am typing this on the live MacBook. The unit fired up as soon as I plugged in the power adapter. Nice. The battery percentage indicator said the battery had approximately 85% power charge. Is this normal? If not, what steps should I take to ensure that this battery is properly calibrated?

    Cheers,

    James

    James Pineda - Yanıt

    Hi James,

    Follow these steps to calibrate your new battery: https://help.ifixit.com/article/265-batt...

    Sam Omiotek -

    日本語翻訳ありがとうございます。大変分かりやすかったです。

    1点だけ、下記タイプミスだと思います。

    カリブレーション→キャリブレーション

    kazika - Yanıt

    ご指摘ありがとうございました!訂正済みです。

    Midori Doi -

    Can someone tell me which model is written in the battery? I saw that is written the model a1437. Is this model compatible with the a1425? Thanks

    mizuno.doss - Yanıt

    Hi Mizuno,

    The battery model is A1437, and it is compatible with the MacBook Pro model A1425.

    Arthur Shi -

    These instructions are brilliantly concise! Thank you. And thank you everyone for your comments. As a final comment from me, it is much easier to assess the final position of the batteries if you place them gently in position, reinstall the speakers, adjust the battery position if needed and then press them firmly into place.

    John - Yanıt

    Ive never done anything like this before ….took less than an hour. Everything looks good…….. Thanks IFIXIT. Save the planet fixit.

    cquirolo - Yanıt

    I did everything in the kit, but my computer won’t acknowledge the battery and is only running on my power adapter. Once I take off the power adapter it shuts down. I also tried resetting the snc, but unsure if it did anything. I reopened up the back to see if I missed anything. The batteries are warm, which means they were running. I’m very confused, anybody else run into similar issues?

    Alice - Yanıt

    My OEM adhesive was particularly persnickety and did not want to come up. I found a pick to be more useful than the flat spudger or the card. I also used several applications of remover and found that working with it wet was much more effective than letting it dry to dissolve the glue. A final few wipes with more remover and the cloth wipe that came with the kit did a good cleanup job.

    Adrien - Yanıt

    So I just replaced the battery and reassembled everything and when plugging it into the power supply, the LED is not lighting up and computer is not turning on. Not sure what I did incorrectly as I basically followed the steps in reverse for reassembly after installing the battery. Any advice would be appreciated.

    Bibihabibi - Yanıt

  35. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement, Logic Board Assembly: adım 35, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement, Logic Board Assembly: adım 35, 2 resimden 2.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to push the edges of the I/O board connector straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • It is recommended to carefully push on both sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket.

  36. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 36, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 36, 2 resimden 2.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to push the iSight camera cable connector straight away from its socket on the logic board.

    • It is recommended to carefully push on both sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket.

  37. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 37, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 37, 2 resimden 2.
    • Move the iSight camera cable aside.

  38. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 38, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 38, 2 resimden 2.
    • Wedge the flat end of a spudger underneath the keyboard backlight connector and the logic board.

    • Gently twist the flat end of a spudger upwards to pry the keyboard backlight connector up off its socket on the logic board.

  39. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 39, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 39, 2 resimden 2.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Grasp the plastic pull tab and pull the trackpad ribbon cable out of its socket.

  40. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 40, 3 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 40, 3 resimden 2. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 40, 3 resimden 3.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Grasp the plastic pull tab and pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

  41. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 41, 3 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 41, 3 resimden 2. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 41, 3 resimden 3.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the microphone ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Grasp the plastic pull tab and pull the microphone ribbon cable out of its socket.

  42. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 42, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 42, 2 resimden 2.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to rotate the pull tab secured to the display data cable lock toward the DC-In side of the computer.

  43. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 43, 3 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 43, 3 resimden 2. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 43, 3 resimden 3.
    • Gently push the edges of the display data cable connector away from its socket on the logic board.

    • It is recommended "walk" the connector out of its socket. Simply push the top and bottom corners of the connector and carefully "walk it out" of its socket.

    • Pull, but do not remove, the display data cable connector out of its socket and carefully move it out of the way.

  44. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 44, 3 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 44, 3 resimden 2. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 44, 3 resimden 3.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the left fan ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Carefully pull the left fan ribbon cable out of its socket.

  45. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 45, 1 resimden 1.
    • Move the left fan ribbon cable aside to reveal a hidden screw securing the logic board assembly to the upper case.

  46. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 46, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 46, 2 resimden 2.
    • Remove the following screws securing the logic board to the upper case:

    • Eight 3.3 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One Phillips #00 screw

    • Two 3.1 mm T5 Torx screws

    • Remove two more screws, from the MagSafe DC-In board in the upper right corner (second image).

    • Two 3.4 mm T5 Torx screws

    I just hit this step. The Philips that worked for me was the #000. Thank you so much for this tutorial.

    Eduardo Reis - Yanıt

  47. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 47, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 47, 2 resimden 2.
    • Carefully lift the logic board assembly from its left side and work it out of the upper case, minding any cables and the I/O ports that may get caught during removal.

    • Pull the right I/O port side of the logic board away from the side of the upper case and remove the logic board assembly.

  48. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement, I/O Board: adım 48, 3 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement, I/O Board: adım 48, 3 resimden 2. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement, I/O Board: adım 48, 3 resimden 3.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry and disconnect the three antenna cable connectors from the AirPort board.

    • The three cables are coded with black sleeves of different lengths. During reassembly:

    • Connect the long-sleeved cable to the center socket.

    • The short-sleeved cable connects next to the screw.

    • The remaining cable has no sleeve, and connects in the last empty socket, next to the fan.

  49. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 49, 1 resimden 1.
    • Remove the following two screws securing the I/O board to the upper case:

    • One 3.53 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 4.89 mm T8 Torx standoff screw

  50. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 50, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 50, 2 resimden 2.
    • Carefully pull and remove the I/O board away from its recess in the upper case.

  51. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement, Headphone Jack Assembly: adım 51, 1 resimden 1.
    • Remove the two 3.4 mm T5 Torx screws securing the headphone jack to the upper case.

  52. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 52, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 52, 2 resimden 2.
    • Lift and remove the headphone jack out of the upper case.

  53. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement, Display Assembly: adım 53, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement, Display Assembly: adım 53, 2 resimden 2.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to lift the rubber hinge covers up off the right and left display hinges.

  54. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 54, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 54, 2 resimden 2.
    • Remove the 3.2 mm T5 Torx screws (one on each side) securing the aluminum hinge brackets to the upper case.

  55. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 55, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 55, 2 resimden 2.
    • Use a pair of tweezers to lift aluminum hinge brackets off the right and left display hinges.

  56. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 56, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 56, 2 resimden 2.
    • Remove the four inner 5.3 mm T8 Torx screws (two on each side) securing the display to the upper case.

  57. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 57, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 57, 2 resimden 2.
    • Open the MacBook Pro approximately 110 degrees, and place it sideways on the table, as shown.

    • While holding the display and upper case together with your left hand, remove the remaining T8 Torx screw from the lower display bracket.

    • Be sure to hold the display and upper case together with your left hand. Failure to do so may cause the freed display/upper case to fall, potentially damaging each component.

    • Remove the last remaining T8 Torx screw securing the display to the upper case.

  58. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 58, 3 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 58, 3 resimden 2. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 58, 3 resimden 3.
    • Grip both halves of the device, one in each hand.

    • Gently push forward on the bottom half of the device to detach it from the display assembly.

    • Carefully set each component aside, making sure to set down the lower half keyboard-side down.

  59. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement, Trackpad: adım 59, 1 resimden 1.
    • Remove the following screws securing the trackpad to the upper case:

    • Four 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws

  60. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 60, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 60, 2 resimden 2.
    • Wedge the spudger between the trackpad ribbon cable and the upper case.

    • Run the spudger along the bottom to release the trackpad ribbon cable from the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

  61. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 61, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 61, 2 resimden 2.
    • Insert the tip of a spudger in between the trackpad ribbon cable and the upper case.

    • Carefully thread the trackpad ribbon cable out of the notch near the top of the SSD assembly cavity.

  62. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 62, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 62, 2 resimden 2.
    • Once the trackpad is free of the upper case, guide the trackpad ribbon cable through the slot cut in the upper case.

    • Remove the trackpad from the upper case.

  63. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement, Microphone Assembly: adım 63, 1 resimden 1.
    • For this step, it is recommended to use a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the adhesive securing the microphone assembly to the upper case. You may be able to remove it without doing so, but will risk damaging the microphone cable.

    • With the heat gun set to low, heat the microphone assembly to loosen the adhesive attaching it to the upper case.

    • Be very careful not to overheat the microphones or upper case. Keep in mind that the plastic keyboard is on the other side—too much heat in a single place can melt keys.

  64. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 64, 3 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 64, 3 resimden 2. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 64, 3 resimden 3.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to remove the piece of tape covering one of two microphones.

    • Grasp the piece of tape with a pair of tweezers and remove it.

  65. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 65, 3 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 65, 3 resimden 2. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 65, 3 resimden 3.
    • Repeat the same procedure as the previous step to remove the tape covering the second microphone.

  66. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 66, 3 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 66, 3 resimden 2. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 66, 3 resimden 3.
    • Wedge the tip of a spudger underneath the microphone assembly cable.

    • Run the spudger up along the bottom of the microphone assembly cable to separate it from the upper case.

  67. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 67, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 67, 2 resimden 2.
    • Gently wedge the tip of a spudger underneath the second microphone and push inwards to loosen the adhesive.

    • At this point the second microphone should be completely detached from the upper case.

  68. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 68, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 68, 2 resimden 2.
    • Carefully pry the first microphone up off the upper case.

  69. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement: adım 69, 1 resimden 1.
    • Lift and remove the microphone assembly out of the upper case.

  70. MacBook Pro 13" Retina Display Late 2012 Upper Case Replacement, Upper Case: adım 70, 1 resimden 1.
    • Upper case remains.

    Hey guys

    Can i just replace the keyboard in this type of mac? I've ordered one online as the P key has died.

    I can't find just a keyboard replacement guide but hope I can just replace that cheaper component...

    Cheers

    B

    Bill Wood - Yanıt

Sonuç

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

14 farklı kişi bu kılavuzu tamamladı.

2 Yorum

Wow, it worked! I am computer literate but have not taken my computer apart in years. Your photos and attention to detail were much appreciated. Any woman can and should attempt to do this herself. Thanks so much for the great tutorial!

Tricia

Patricia - Yanıt

If uppercase Assembly(Includes Trackpad, keyboard, Palmrest & BATTERY) is being replaced, there is no need to remove battery from old uppercase assembly.

Macrepair SF - Yanıt

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