Giriş

Internal Prerequisite.

  1. Use the tip of a spudger to pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable out from under the retaining finger molded into the upper case. Pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable upward to lift the connector out of its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable out from under the retaining finger molded into the upper case.

    • Pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable upward to lift the connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    Reminder: When replacing the cable the connector should be placed in from above. This fooled me and I damaged the seat a bit, but not enough to prevent proper connection.

    Lee Hughart - Yanıt

  2. Disconnect the camera cable from the logic board.
    • Disconnect the camera cable from the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board. Pulling the cable upward may damage the logic board or the cable itself.

    The camera cable head has bump at both sides. Just use two spudgers to pry it out.

    townbull - Yanıt

    Here's where the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 makes its first major departure from this guide. No such connection exists. At least nowhere I could find on the motherboard.

    Larry Horton - Yanıt

    IIRC the official service manual suggests putting the blunt or wide edge of a black-stick/spudger underneath the cable and then pressing down on said cable to provide better gripping force while pulling the cable out/away from the connector. It’s my tried-and-true method of choice.

    James - Yanıt

    Anyone has a data of this cable becausei brkoe it and i have an other same connector ??

    Mail : mr.leminecrafteur@gmail.com

    VARE - Yanıt

    Just broke this cable by pulling to hard. Definitely use a spudger to pry out the connector instead of pulling the cable.

    maxpoetter - Yanıt

  3. Disconnect the following four cables: AirPort/Bluetooth cable
    • Disconnect the following four cables:

    • AirPort/Bluetooth cable

    • Optical drive cable

    • Hard drive cable

    • Trackpad cable

    • To disconnect the cables, use the flat end of a spudger to pry their connectors up from the sockets on the logic board.

    On the mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the Airport/Bluetooth cable is different from the other three cables in this step. It's fabric wrapped, and its connection works in a fashion more like the display data cable connection, although it does not have a lock that releases by pulling a tab back over the cable. So, to those of you who are repairing this model, be careful. Prying upward is not the way to remove this cable. I played with it until I could detect which parts were moving which way and why. Although I can't say with precision how the connection works, I removed it by gently coaxing slightly up at an angle and back along the plane of the optical drive. The idea is to pull the cable back out of its socket while lifting slightly.

    Too bad we can't post photos in the comments.

    Larry Horton - Yanıt

    Same with the Mid 2010 model - moving the cable parallel to the board, towards the optical device works fine.

    Hans - Yanıt

  4. Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Use the tip of a spudger to pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.
    • Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

    Hello i've a late 2011 and have manged to break the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket. Is this a part that can be replaced? Ribbon is still good just the plastic has broken on the edge. Thanks

    Derek Cowan - Yanıt

    No, You'll need to replace the logic board. I'd probably just use a wired or bluetooth keyboard and put the money towards a new machine.

    maccentric -

    I ran into trouble reattaching the keyboard ribbon cable into the ZIF socket. I couldn't grasp it in a way that let me push it all the all back. A local repair guy told me his trick: use a piece of tape. Attach a piece of tape to the ribbon cable and make a tab so you can pull the cable into the socket. Use of a piece of tape that you can easily remove. Works like a charm.

    David - Yanıt

    Buy that man a pint! I've been working on computers professionally for a decade and I've never thought of that trick. Brilliant!

    Gryyphyn -

    Amazing this saved me!

    Felipe Cordero -

    You've saved me countless hours of crying trying to simply push it in

    Tunipguy -

    David, thank you so much for the tape suggestion! A little Scotch tape just ended 15 minutes of eyes-widening frustration. :)

    simolinic - Yanıt

    if the zif socket got fried which parts must be replaced?

    Jacob - Yanıt

    i dont know what yall be talkin bout i just ripped the top part off and then i put some back tape voerit

    works great!

    mark Andrews - Yanıt

    After I put it all back together, the keyboard didn’t work; I traced it to this cable not being plugged in all the way. I used the tape trick to coax it all the way in to seat well and it works like a charm.

    Ruedi Schubarth - Yanıt

    “Attach a piece of tape to the ribbon cable and make a tab so you can pull the cable into the socket. Use of a piece of tape that you can easily remove. Works like a charm.” <=== perhaps the best suggestion I’ve read in years!

    airshack - Yanıt

    The tape trick works. Since we’re in the middle of a home renovation project I used a piece of painters tape that was lying around. It doesn’t really stick to the cable but it just gives you that extra grip.

    Rob Kruit - Yanıt

    I had a hard time to reattach the keyboard cables, the tape trick just saved my life.

    nikowesome - Yanıt

    Just a random thing to add. My Mac would not boot without the keyboard ribbon being plugged in correctly.

    Zakary Womack - Yanıt

    Thanks for the tip about keyboard ribbon, saved me a major headache

    domhnallk - Yanıt

    It’s worth pointing out that the lever to lift this is at the back of the connector and that you’re pulling it towards yourself - this then releases the plastic on top of the cable that’s holding it in place.

    Nick Watts - Yanıt

    The tape trick was the only way it could go in for me.

    Lee Hughart - Yanıt

    PLEASE post the tape trick for reinsertion into the MAIN instructions for this repair. I managed to destroy the cable traces requiring me to replace the whole keyboard before I found the tape trick info. Please, please, please keep anyone else from &&^&^$^ up this way.

    Robert Daverin - Yanıt

    tape tip! genius! first go!

    Alfonso Garcia-Bennett - Yanıt

  5. Pro Tech Toolkit içeren veya $100tüm siparişlerde ücretsiz kargo!

    Mağazamıza Göz Atın
  6. If present, remove the small strip of black tape covering the keyboard backlight cable socket.
    • If present, remove the small strip of black tape covering the keyboard backlight cable socket.

    The bottom of the small strip has excellent adhesive which will re-stick upon reassembly without any problems. I handled the sticky side and even stuck it to a plastic tray without any issues. Which is to say the sticky-ness does not seem to wear off.

    airshack - Yanıt

  7. Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket. Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself. Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

    The first time I reassembled the system I left this tiny ribbon connector under the logic board by accident. If your keyboard backlight no longer works after reassembly it’s because you forgot to reattach this small connector. Fortunately, I caught my mistake before securing the logic board screws. It’s an easy to miss item.

    airshack - Yanıt

  8. Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the sleep sensor/battery indicator connector up from its socket on the logic board.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the sleep sensor/battery indicator connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    Hello Guys , I accidently Broke the Cable , is there a replacement for it?

    dewa - Yanıt

    the sleep sensor/battery indicator were not included with my new case, i had to transfer them over from my old case. once the battery is out (step 22), you can see the three screws you need to remove in order to take it out. it’s also secured by adhesive. the button for the battery indicator will likely fall out (at least it did on mine) when you remove the board, so be careful not to lose it…my new case did come with the button for the battery indicator (even though it didn’t come with the board or cable), but i just re-used the old one.

    Matt - Yanıt

  9. Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer. Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board. Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.
    • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

    Its quite delicate, pull gently and it will pop out with a slight clicking sound

    Leo Jose - Yanıt

    On my mid-2009 13" MacBook Pro 5,5 the display data cable was square with the motherboard, rather than at an angle. I'm not experienced with working on computer connections, but if I were going to describe this procedure, it would be more like:

    "Grasp the plastic tab on the end of the display data cable connection, and pull it gently back over the cable, toward the DC-in board. The tab is connected to a flat rectangular 'ring' that locks the cable to its connection, and when you pull the tab, the rectangular lock will flip back over the cable, allowing the cable to be removed by pulling the same direction, parallel to the surface of the motherboard."

    Larry Horton - Yanıt

    Exactly the same as on the Mid2010 Model - never pull up, always parallel to the board, using the spudger to keep the cable down might helpfull while pulling with fingers the cable towards DC-In at the right side.

    Hans -

    Probably a long shot but can this cable be replaced? I think i broke mine

    Ahmad z - Yanıt

    Well i found the part at amazon. how to repair it is another thing. I have to ask for help from one on this one. because its booting to a whiet screen.

    mark Andrews - Yanıt

    My display is not working after reassemble the mac.

    Any reason?

    Nitin Sonwal - Yanıt

    My display is also not working after reassembly. External monitor works, but the internal display doesn't.

    Chris - Yanıt

    I choose not to remove this, just laid the board over. Worked just fine.

    Justin Patterson - Yanıt

    I used my phone to photograph the entire underside of the Macbook Pro before I started removing things. This photo helped augment the excellent photos here. Take a few close-ups of each section/item before disassembly to reference upon assembly.

    airshack - Yanıt

    when reattaching the display cable, i used the spudger to tuck the spongy top flap underneath the cable lock, so that i could then get the cable lock down the entire way. i couldn’t get it under there (and get the lock closed) without it, the top part of the display cable blocked it.

    Matt - Yanıt

    Matt Did the internal display then turn on? Mine is still dark…

    Tony Feldhaus -

  10. Remove the following nine screws:
    • Remove the following nine screws:

    • Five 3.6 mm T6 Torx screws

    • Two 4.3 mm T6 Torx screws

    • Two 7.2 mm T6 Torx screws

    • In some models the screws may be slightly shorter as follows:

    • Five 3.0 mm T6 screws

    • Two 3.6 mm T6 screws

    • Two 6.7 mm T6 screws

    2 of the 7 listed 4mm screws attaching the logic board are actually 4.5 or 5 mm.... unfortunately. I didn't notice that until I was reassembling. so I don't know which positions they came from.

    starf1970 - Yanıt

    I'm just noticing this too... I've put the longer screws as the two on the far left of the picture because they seemed to be the two holes I couldn't see the bottom to.

    GotMac -

    Just took one apart and paid attention this time. On this Mac, the screws colored orange should be red, and the 2 screws on the left side of the board should be orange (they’re a bit longer).

    maccentric -

    2 of the 7 (the two red ones on the right side in the image) seem really hard to remove. Is there something I'm missing, or do I just need to try harder?

    rubenwiersma - Yanıt

    lol @ eye widening frustration. i disabled the keyboard and track pad some how after trying discon my mic. i think its cuz i DID REMOVE BATTERY AND STICKER. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

    msvicious510 - Yanıt

    For keeping the screws straight I drew a simple diagram and placed them on it head down/threads up in their respective positions. Then all screws went back into their original positions without any guess work. Another suggestion I have during assembly is to start the screws without torquing them all the way down - leave them a little loose to allow some adjustment of the logic board for getting them all to line up with their holes, then torque them down. This technique also works for the screws on the bottom cover/lower case.

    Great guide! Saved me some dough, and now my MagSafe connector stays nice and cool.

    gregory mogle - Yanıt

    There is only 2 4.3mm T6 on the left part of the logic board and 2 7.2mm T6 on the magsafe board. The 5 T6 left are 3.6mm

    sebdominguez - Yanıt

    for me the two on the farthest left were the 4.3mm screws. otherwise all went as described

    Levi Hoover - Yanıt

  11. Remove the following two screws: One 8.6 mm Phillips screw
    • Remove the following two screws:

    • One 8.6 mm Phillips screw

    • One 5.5 mm Phillips screw

    • Remove the display data cable retainer from the upper case.

    The last screw is the onde that's getting me. Been trying to take it out for half an hour...

    leotowers - Yanıt

  12. Use the tip of a spudger to gently peel the microphone off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.
    • Use the tip of a spudger to gently peel the microphone off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

    The mic adhesive was the only adhesive which seemed diminished by disassembly. I don’t know what apple uses for internal adhesive but I finished the project wishing I had some to secure this mic assembly a little better.

    airshack - Yanıt

    Careful with this one. The wires are very thin fragile and it’s glued down very well making it extremely hard to remove. Just go slow and be patient otherwise you’ll damage the wires.

    Rob Kruit - Yanıt

    I finally got that mic out by gripping it between two spudgers like a pair of chopsticks and gently pulling it out at an angle. The rubber shroud on it makes the thing hard to grip, and when I finally pulled it free, part of the adhesive ring tore off and stayed stuck to the chassis. When reassembling the machine, I had to kind of squish it back into place. It doesn’t hold quite as well as it did before, but it seems fine.

    Thomas - Yanıt

  13. Minding the many connectors near its edges, lift the logic board from the end nearest the optical drive.
    • Minding the many connectors near its edges, lift the logic board from the end nearest the optical drive.

    • Without flexing the board, maneuver it out of the upper case, minding the flexible connection to the DC-In board that may get caught in the upper case.

    • Remove the logic board.

    I am stuck here. When I lift the logic board, it doesn't come out. I don't want to force it out by fear of breaking it. Please help

    Jean F - Yanıt

    I had the same issue. After wiggling the logic board back and forth and slowly applying more force, just up the threshold where I felt uncomfortable, it came out. The problem appeared to be caused by glue on the heatsink barcode sticking to the layer underneath.

    Shaun - Yanıt

    Same experience here. I used a longish spudger slipped under the logic board to carefully separate the black backlight shield from the underside of the logic board. I suspect the processor and/or the GPU sticks the two together. Be careful and patient separating the backlight shiled...it is delicate..go slow and use minimal force...

    fasthans - Yanıt

    It is heat not glue that caused the sticking...

    fasthans - Yanıt

    I got the microphone cable out fine, but what I'm really struggling with is the camera cable - it doesn't seem to wanna come out and I don't want to force it because I know it's fragile. Anyone find a trick for this?

    ingwis - Yanıt

    I did all this, and worked! .but Im wondering, has anybody unscrewed what seems to be a mini heatsink (black 1 inch square housing) on the integrated GPU? Could I re apply paste on that?

    tony perry - Yanıt

    I did make the change yesterday. inside it has a thermal pad, that appears to be 3mm or less. i try to clean on my best. I make a making a very tick pea size and added again. but i have no idea if it works or not. still having temps on 56c on idle. there is no much info on that. i use MX-4 from arctic. but i still, in my option, a little to for my use. if someone have more info on that part on the late 2011 i7 macbook pro 13inch please send the info.

    Carlos De Bernard -

    I did and applied Arctic Silver 5 underneath instead of the crap tape they put under there. This alone stopped the random freezing and rebooting problem I was having with this macbook pro. I recommend if you're already that deep into it, you might as well do it. I'm glad I did.

    ej257lgt -

    There is one flexible metal plate near each connector probably a grounding plate which can get bend while pulling out the logic board. I had one of them bend but fortunately it didn't break off.

    Leo Jose - Yanıt

    Need help. After I put everything back together, everything works fine but my macbook just wont charge. Any diagnosis on this? Anyone who can explain to me how the battery and the charging work in a Mac?

    justfinditjoshyip - Yanıt

    Hi - did you figure out what the problem was? Everything working great - but not charging =/

    Denise Vondy -

    If this happened to me, I would first suspect I hadn't completely connected the DC-in board cable. If I hadn't just replaced the battery, I would wonder if the battery was good. MagSafe power cable connect connections fail too, especially if they've been attached for a long time to a red hot DC-in board.

    If those failed, I'd head to the genius bar!

    Larry Horton -

    I had this problem. I accidentally cut the a cable from the DC-in board and I had to buy this component and replace it. You have to be very careful when mounting back the logic board in its position to not get a cable from the DC-in board cut by the screws.

    Enrique Cerrillo Cuenca -

    I broke the black backlight shield.... be careful when you feel the logic board and the film underneath it seem stickinig togethre.

    EUNAE JO - Yanıt

    The magnetic MagSafe connector pins have a grey plastic frame which can be seen as you look at it from the outside, looking inwards at the port. This plastic frame eventually starts to crack and break-up over the years. It’s not a necessary part so if your MagSafe connector has broken grey plastic on the external end of the connector, remove the pieces as they’re there only for cosmetic reasons.

    airshack - Yanıt

    The fan exhaust grille was catching onto the speaker unit so I had to skip to step 28 to take it out. After taking out the airport card the speaker was able to move away from the fan grille and let me lift out the logic board.

    Antonio Cabrara (MrUnkownGuy) - Yanıt

    Also be sure to lift up the logic board to a slight angle so it clears the optical drive then pull it out gently at that angle. Do not pull it ulwards.

    Antonio Cabrara (MrUnkownGuy) - Yanıt

    The mainboard got stuck with the speaker and I can't lift it up. So I removed the first speaker screw (Wich is nearest to the mainboard) then I was able to remove the mainboard

    Mauricio Larrea - Yanıt

Sonuç

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Bir Yorum

If I have a MacBook Pro 13’’ A1278 Mid 2012 with i5 2.5GHz logic board, am I able to put a 2.3 GHz i5 A1278 early 2011 macbook pro logic board onto the Mid 2012 macbook pro?

Sara - Yanıt

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