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Use this guide to replace a broken MagSafe DC-In board.

  1. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Lower Case: step 1, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Three 14.4 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • Three 3.5 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • Four 3.5 mm shouldered Phillips #00 screws

    • When replacing the small screws, align them perpendicular to the slight curvature of the case (they don't go straight down).

  2. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 2, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 2, image 2 of 2
    • Use your fingers to pry the lower case away from the body of the MacBook near the vent.

    • Remove the lower case.

  3. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Battery Connection: step 3, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Battery Connection: step 3, image 2 of 2
    • Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board.

    • It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, they can be easily broken off.

  4. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 4, image 1 of 1
    • Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.

  5. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Fan: step 5, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Fan: step 5, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Fan: step 5, image 3 of 3
    • Use the edge of a spudger to gently pry the fan connector up and out of its socket on the logic board.

    • It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.

    • The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures. Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket. The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same.

  6. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 6, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the following three screws securing the fan to the logic board:

    • One 7.2 mm T6 Torx screw

    • Two 5.3 mm T6 Torx screws

  7. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 7, image 1 of 1
    • Lift the fan out of its recess in the logic board, minding its cable that may get caught.

  8. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Logic Board: step 8, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, Logic Board: step 8, image 2 of 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable out from under the retaining finger molded into the upper case.

    • Pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable upward to lift the connector out of its socket on the logic board.

  9. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 9, image 1 of 1
    • Disconnect the camera cable from the logic board.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board. Pulling the cable upward may damage the logic board or the cable itself.

  10. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 10, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 10, image 2 of 2
    • Disconnect the following four cables:

    • AirPort/Bluetooth cable

    • Optical drive cable

    • Hard drive cable

    • Trackpad cable

    • To disconnect the cables, use the flat end of a spudger to pry their connectors up from the sockets on the logic board.

  11. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 11, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 11, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 11, image 3 of 3
    • Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pull the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

    • The cable may be difficult to insert. If you are having trouble, temporarily attach a piece of tape to the cable to help you guide the cable into the socket.

  12. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 12, image 1 of 1
    • If present, remove the small strip of black tape covering the keyboard backlight cable socket.

  13. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 13, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 13, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 13, image 3 of 3
    • Use the tip of a spudger or your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the keyboard backlight ribbon cable ZIF socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the hinged retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

  14. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 14, image 1 of 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the sleep sensor/battery indicator connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  15. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 15, image 1 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 15, image 2 of 3 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 15, image 3 of 3
    • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

    • Pull the display data cable straight out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Do not lift up on the display data cable, as its socket is very fragile. Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board.

  16. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 16, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the following nine screws:

    • Five 3.6 mm T6 Torx screws

    • Two 4.3 mm T6 Torx screws

    • Two 7.2 mm T6 Torx screws

    • In some models the screws may be slightly shorter as follows:

    • Five 3.0 mm T6 screws

    • Two 3.6 mm T6 screws

    • Two 6.7 mm T6 screws

  17. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 17, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 17, image 2 of 2
    • Remove the following two screws:

    • One 8.6 mm Phillips screw

    • One 5.5 mm Phillips screw

    • Remove the display data cable retainer from the upper case.

  18. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 18, image 1 of 1
    • Use the tip of a spudger to gently peel the microphone off the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

  19. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement: step 19, image 1 of 1
    • Minding the many connectors near its edges, lift the logic board from the end nearest the optical drive.

    • Without flexing the board, maneuver it out of the upper case, minding the flexible connection to the DC-In board that may get caught in the upper case.

    • Remove the logic board.

  20. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 MagSafe DC-In Board Replacement, MagSafe DC-In Board: step 20, image 1 of 1
    • Pull the MagSafe DC-In board cable toward the heat sink to disconnect it from the logic board.

    • Do not pull upwards. Pulling the connector upwards may break the socket from the logic board.

    • Remove the MagSafe DC-In board.

Sonuç

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

55 farklı kişi bu kılavuzu tamamladı.

Phillip Takahashi

Üyelik tarihi: 22-08-2011

84.790 İtibar

87 adet Kılavuz yazıldı

6 Yorum

Everything ok, only now my screen won`t turn off when I close the lid... Any theories?

Francisco Hood - Yanıt

just speculation here most laptops have a small magnet and the magnetic reed switch the trip the action to turn off the screen when the lid closes this activating sleep mode

my suspicions are that you damaged the reed switch or you lost a little magnet

Xander Stellema -

I just performed this repair. Everything went smoothly and it is working great.

jazcrek - Yanıt

Thank you to Phillip for this guide. Completed with no issues. My DC port was wrecked after many years of use and was causing my MBP to only charge intermittently.

Jon Pavledis - Yanıt

Brilliant guide. Thanks. Completed the repair and now it charges perfectly.

Mark Jaffrey - Yanıt

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