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Use this guide to replace a blown subwoofer or right speaker.

  1. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 Right Speaker/Subwoofer Replacement, Lower Case: step 1, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the following ten screws:

    • Three 14.4 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • Three 3.5 mm Phillips #00 screws

    • Four 3.5 mm shouldered Phillips #00 screws

    • When replacing the small screws, align them perpendicular to the slight curvature of the case (they don't go straight down).

    How much weight can I save by removing the optical drive?

    gunes314 - Yanıt

    You can save a lot of weight if lets say your installing a solid state drive or putting in a second hard drive but if you know that you use the CD/DVD disc drive a lot then you might just want to leave the drive alone.

    Marshall WahlstromHelgren -

    Tip: Use one of those weekday pill holders to have a cheep way to store screws you remove and each day of the week can be for different sizes or parts. It has been handy to have (much less expensive than the magnetic mat.

    Robert Wacker - Yanıt

    Hello, where can I buy the screws I need in case I lose one of them?

    taylornya - Yanıt

    I have one stripped screw... How opening without drill it?! Any suggestions please?

    rodrigosady - Yanıt

    I also stripped a couple screws. I wasn’t able to open it up without drilling. After drilling the heads and removing the cover it was easy to hacksaw the tip and unscrew with a standard driver.

    Michael Wilkens -

    My top tip - make sure you buy good quality Phillips screwdrivers and a magnetic holder. Cheap screwdrivers won’t get the screws undone safely. Without a magnetic holder you have no chance of getting the tiny crews in and out safely.

    jeremyyoung - Yanıt

    A good Phillips 00 is your friend here. Also, when reinserting the screws, gently start anticlockwise and you wil feel a click at the start of the thread. This tells you you’re in the right place and less likely to cross-thread through force in the wrong place.

    Iain Boyd - Yanıt

    I feel like these are 000 screws. Amazon sales describe them as such and my 000 screwdriver fits better

    cam2000deluxe -

    Before ordering a new Trackpad remove the existing battery and try clicking the Trackpad. If it clicks OK with the battery out the source of problem is likely a swollen battery, which should to be replaced even if it still works to some degree. From the side of the battery you will likely see the soft part of the battery bulging beyond the hard case.

    Patrick Langvardt - Yanıt

    That’s absolutely correct as I can testify. With the battery removed I also adjusted the T6 set screw that adjusts the sensitivity of the trackpad click, evidently someone had cranked mine down tighter than the factory setting.

    Gary Register -

    Le quatrième paragraphe dans les instructions en français n’est pas correct : ce ne sont pas les 2 petites vis, mais les 7 petites vis qui sont inclinées. Et les 3 grandes sont bien verticales.

    Degeorges - Yanıt

    Bonjour ! Merci de votre observation. J’ai corrigé la traduction. iFixit étant un wiki, n’hésitez pas à modifiez si vous remarquez une erreur :) Encore merci de votre attention et à bientôt !

    Claire Miesch -

    Tip: if you have a magnetic screw mat or similar, lay the macbook over the mat to make sure it catches any screws that may decide to fall of and hide under your table

    Moritz - Yanıt

  2. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 Right Speaker/Subwoofer Replacement: step 2, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 Right Speaker/Subwoofer Replacement: step 2, image 2 of 2
    • Use your fingers to pry the lower case away from the body of the MacBook near the vent.

    • Remove the lower case.

  3. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 Right Speaker/Subwoofer Replacement, Battery Connection: step 3, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 Right Speaker/Subwoofer Replacement, Battery Connection: step 3, image 2 of 2
    • Use the edge of a spudger to pry the battery connector upwards from its socket on the logic board.

    • It is useful to pry upward on both short sides of the connector to "walk" it out of its socket. Be careful with the corners of the connectors, they can be easily broken off.

    Is this step of removing the battery connector required?

    manodh - Yanıt

    yes - as with disassembly of any electronic component you have to remove any power source. You don't want to accidentally turn the Mac on

    khull -

    Prying the battery connector off does not take much force. I did exactly what the guide suggested (walked it off back and forth) with the spudger without any problems. Just be very gentle, much like with anything inside laptops, they are very fragile and need to be worked with carefully. A+ instructions, battery replacement was a success.

    aekinaka - Yanıt

    Be patient on disconnecting this one. It worked for me step by step, little by little.

    Phil Wagner - Yanıt

    I used the nails of thumb and pointer finger simultaneously - worked pretty fine

    Reinhard Kaune - Yanıt

  4. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 Right Speaker/Subwoofer Replacement: step 4, image 1 of 1
    • Bend the battery cable slightly away from its socket on the logic board so it does not accidentally connect itself while you work.

    I put some tape between the connector and socket while working on the drive.

    Stephen Smith - Yanıt

    That's a good tip

    Anrothan -

    Great tip, I did that too

    Ahmed Mahran -

    One other note: The screw heads fit flush with the curvature of the case -- which means that they aren't exactly horizontal. In other words, they aren't perpendicular to the table that the computer is resting on. Don't try to force them straight in vertically, because you'll risk cross-threading them. (nearly ruined one screw hole myself!)

    lelandjordon - Yanıt

    On my MacBook Pro, the connector seems to be an integral part of the battery.

    Jerry South - Yanıt

    I suspect it’s just like the special screwdriver required for seatbelts on cars – to discourage regular consumers from attempting repairs. Of course, this only encourages consumers to use the wrong tool to attempt to repairs

    colleenthompson - Yanıt

  5. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 Right Speaker/Subwoofer Replacement, Optical Drive: step 5, image 1 of 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the AirPort/Bluetooth ribbon cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    N.B! Thank you very much all you here on iFixit! Some IMPORTANT notes. Be very careful BEFORE prying the connectors up and down. They are very fragile and the picture could actually be seen as showing a bending loading in their weakest direction, AROUND its slender axis. The connector is slender and inserted on the logic board, so the gentle "walking" up and down should be done ALONG their slender direction and WITHOUT touching the adjacent connectors. If bending is done around its axis the soldering comes apart and the cable is done and gone. Just happened. These flat cables are one of the weakest design spots in my experience. They are a major time, money and geist consuming reason for malfunction like Wi-Fi connection problems, HDD, SSD not found internally but externally from USB issues et al being found on different forums. Thanks again and again.

    Greg - Yanıt

  6. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 Right Speaker/Subwoofer Replacement: step 6, image 1 of 1
    • Carefully pull the camera cable out of its socket on the logic board.

    • Though not recommended by iFixit staff, some users opt to omit this step completely. For information on this, see the step comments.

    • Pull the cable parallel to the face of the logic board. Pulling it upward may damage the logic board or the cable itself.

    I'd to disassemble my MBP two times because my SSD did not work properly in optibay. While doing it a second time, I omitted steps 6 and 8. It is really not necessary, but step 6 is really scary.

    nicholas - Yanıt

    Do you even need to do this?? I've seen guides where they just leave those on and slide the superdrive out from underneath that module..??

    Philip - Yanıt

    Yes, this is really no need. I left it there, and still can proceed.

    maiyawmh -

    I've replaced 4 dvd's with hdd's already, in different macbooks, so wasn't too fussed about #5. However; this time I broke the camera connector cable :(

    The connector is stil in it's socket, and I can't get it out no matter what I try. My guess is that some of the glue that connects the socket to the logic board, got into the socket as well. Prying with a small screwdriver, pulling with a pair of tweezers... nothing works. And this mbp belongs to a friend who uses his camera a lot for skyping...

    I hope we're still friends after I tell him.

    The thing is; I think it might be possible to do the whole operation with that cable still in its sockets; if you pull the rest of the cable free of the fingers, you can probably fold it out of the way when you lift the dvd out.

    puchelaar - Yanıt

    This is Sooo Unnecessary!! don't do it!

    grant reynolds - Yanıt

    I actually found it necessary to do this step. If not done you can rip chord, if you read the wording carefully and do as it says it should not break.

    Robert Wacker - Yanıt

    After having initially skipped this step, I finally followed it. I couldn't find a way to move the airport / bluetooth assembly away otherwise, and in the end it's a pain to put the small screws back in. Didn't have any trouble unplugging the camera cable, but it is indeed scary because it looks pretty fragile.

    I only skipped step 8, as it didn't seem necessary.

    JoGersen - Yanıt

    I also broke my camera cable!!! And I just realized that removing that lovely cable was not necessary for the following steps!!! Thank you!

    I dont know how to fix this problem and I asked it in this question: How can I fix broken camera cable

    Please, help...

    Yusuf - Yanıt

    I successfully skipped this step when removing the hard drive enclosure (I had already the dual drive running, but I needed to replace the drive in the optical enclosure. I also skipped steps 7, 8, and 11.

    pauloau - Yanıt

    I have a blog post on my experience of performing the upgrade with a simple diagram showing how to skip step 6, 7, 8 and 11. (http://www.ocyedwin.com/?p=190)

    Aderic Adsisco - Yanıt

    I tried to pull the cable, but it did not come off even with moderate force. So it stayed as it was, and I had no problems taking out the drive and putting in the new one.

    Probably its best to skip this step.

    cearnach - Yanıt

    I can't remove this so I skip it. I also skip 7,8,11 with no problem, just do it slow and carefully remove any parts.

    Pat Ach - Yanıt

    Just did this. I elected to actually do this step and I’m glad I did. It was no big deal. Just pull straight back from the socket (not up or angled!) and although it was a little tight, it came out. I think it’s worth it not to possibly mess that cable up when you extract the drive. The drive itself does not lift up straight out- you have to work it out as there a few minor obstructions. At that point, it would be very easy to damage the camera cable. I took all the antenna cables off even those this guide only recommended taking off the long cable. This was due to an Apple repair video I had seen. This proved to be unnecessary and I should just have stuck with this guide’s recommendation. I did skip taking the woofer cable off towards the end of this guide as that seemed to be, and subsequently proved to be, utterly unnecessary. All in all, just moving slowly and carefully I managed this in 30 mins though next time will be faster, no doubt.

    dave - Yanıt

    I did not perform step 6, 7, 8, 10 and 11. Once I performed step 9, I was able move the speaker housing to the right enough to get a long screwdriver to get to the ‘hidden’ screw underneath the housing and just removed the other two main screws holding in the drive in step 14. I did remove the HDD and holding backet prior to starting so I could slip the superdrive out and place the caddy back in the opposite direction. You just have to careful not to snag the wires when trying to remove the superdrive and and when slipping in the caddy. My Macbook is a MacBook Pro (13-inch, Mid 2012) and I only needed a Philips 00 screwdriver, and did not need to use a Torx screwdriver during any part of the upgrade.

    Balvinder Gill - Yanıt

  7. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 Right Speaker/Subwoofer Replacement: step 7, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 Right Speaker/Subwoofer Replacement: step 7, image 2 of 2
    • Carefully move the AirPort/Bluetooth ribbon cable out of the way as you peel the camera cable off the adhesive securing it to the subwoofer and the AirPort/Bluetooth bracket.

    • De-route the camera cable out from under the retaining finger molded into the AirPort/Bluetooth bracket.

    This step is unnecessary, as is step 8. You can get the SuperDrive out and put the caddy in without pulling the cable out.

    Steve - Yanıt

    I successfully skipped this step when removing the hard drive enclosure (I had already the dual drive running, but I needed to replace the drive in the optical enclosure. I also skipped steps 6, 8, and 11.

    pauloau - Yanıt

    Confirmed for a second time: Steps 6, 7, 11 NOT NEEDED.

    Alvaro Paiva Bimbo - Yanıt

  8. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 Right Speaker/Subwoofer Replacement: step 8, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 Right Speaker/Subwoofer Replacement: step 8, image 2 of 2
    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the antenna connector closest to the logic board up from its socket on the AirPort/Bluetooth board.

    • De-route the antenna cable from under the finger molded into the AirPort/Bluetooth bracket.

    I successfully skipped this step when removing the hard drive enclosure (I had already the dual drive running, but I needed to replace the drive in the optical enclosure. I also skipped steps 6, 7, and 11.

    pauloau - Yanıt

    Based on the advice above, I tried to skip this step. Unfortunately, the way the wire wraps around the plastic caused it to break underneath when I lifted the optical drive out, and now I have another broken part.

    lisaquatmann - Yanıt

    Yu can easily skip the step, just make sure you take care when removing/put away the AirPort/BT assembly in the next step, be gentle.

    Lucian Onea - Yanıt

    I skipped this step and disconnected (the end that was not mentioned) accidentally from the machine, what can I do to repair it?

    Ely - Yanıt

    Ce connecteur est très fermement fixéà la carte. Lorsque j'ai procédé comme expliqué ici, il s'est brisé !!!!

    J'ai tenté de le recoller. Pour l'instant il semblerait que j'ai toujours du wifi. Ouf.

    Je pense donc qu'il faut éviter cette étape si possible.

    Pat Microbiom - Yanıt

  9. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 Right Speaker/Subwoofer Replacement: step 9, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the following five screws:

    • Two 10.3 mm Phillips screws

    • Two 3.1 mm Phillips screws

    • One 5 mm Phillips screw

    Note the position of the little grounding rings when removing the red (10mm) screws. You'll have to make sure to re-seat them when reassembling!

    James - Yanıt

    You are so right about making sure to put back the two metal rings when you screw back the two (red) 10.3mm screws. I missed putting back one of the rings and read your comment after I had installed the drive and closed the macbook. Everything was working fine, but I went back to open it an leave it just as it was, with both metal (one with a plastic/cloth material around it) plates/rings attached properly. So it is very important to make sure you put those two 10.3 mm screws back with the plates/rings that they hold, exactly as they were before you put it apart.

    pachis2 -

    I think you should remark when re-assembling the machine, you should pay attention to the metal clip in Step 9, the upper left screw position, it's easy to miss when assembling, because there are so many wires, and it may be very easy forgetting putting the metal clip back in place.

    Fisher - Yanıt

    As far as the grounding ring goes, it slips back over the screw hole, be patient and gentle. You may have to finagle the airport board under it first and then lay the board flat and reattach the subwoofer. I will see if I can add a pic in the near future. But that the best way to describe it.

    Robert Wacker - Yanıt

    FYI: These are #00 Phillips screws!

    Rossi Macri - Yanıt

    Help! I think i stripped the screw head of the one encircled in yellow. What to do?

    BJC - Yanıt

  10. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 Right Speaker/Subwoofer Replacement: step 10, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 Right Speaker/Subwoofer Replacement: step 10, image 2 of 2
    • Pull the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly and the Subwoofer upward near the center of the side of the optical drive until they clear each other.

    • Move the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly and the subwoofer away from the top of the optical drive.

    The left part in the picture (the AirPort/Bluetooth assembly) is held down under a plastic tab that sticks out a tiny amount. Thus, it needs to be pulled very slightly towards the camera module in order to be able to lift out.

    Darren - Yanıt

  11. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 Right Speaker/Subwoofer Replacement: step 11, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 Right Speaker/Subwoofer Replacement: step 11, image 2 of 2
    • Pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable out from under the retaining finger near the side of the optical drive.

    • Pull the right speaker/subwoofer cable upward to disconnect it from the logic board.

    I will confirm for a third time, having just done this replacement yesterday morning: Steps 6, 7, 11 NOT NEEDED.

    cjdow - Yanıt

    When I attempted to lift this cable out of the connector, the connector broke and separated from the board. I suggest not to do this step.

    car rider - Yanıt

  12. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 Right Speaker/Subwoofer Replacement: step 12, image 1 of 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the hard drive cable connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Bend the hard drive cable away from the optical drive.

    N.B! Thank you very much all you here on iFixit! Some IMPORTANT notes. Be very careful BEFORE prying the connectors up and down. They are very fragile and the picture could actually be seen as showing a bending loading in their weakest direction, AROUND its slender axis. The connector is slender and inserted on the logic board, so the gentle "walking" up and down should be done ALONG their slender direction and WITHOUT touching the adjacent connectors. If bending is done around its axis the soldering comes apart and the cable is done and gone. Just happened. These flat cables are one of the weakest design spots in my experience. They are a major time, money and geist consuming reason for malfunction like Wi-Fi connection problems, HDD, SSD not found internally but externally from USB issues et al being found on different forums. Thanks again and again.

    Greg - Yanıt

  13. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 Right Speaker/Subwoofer Replacement: step 13, image 1 of 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive connector up from its socket on the logic board.

  14. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 Right Speaker/Subwoofer Replacement: step 14, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the three 2.7 mm Phillips screws securing the optical drive to the upper case.

    can i reuse this optical drive again

    justcause3 - Yanıt

    Sure you can. Use it in anything. Stick it in a USB enclosure and carry it.

    scottmilliken -

    iFixit has a guide on How to Remove a Stripped Screw: How to Remove a Stripped Screw

    Stripped Screw - Yanıt

    I stripped the top left screw and lost a few others, where can I buy replacements?

    Ely - Yanıt

    top left screw is a nightmare

    Fabian Cadiz - Yanıt

  15. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 Right Speaker/Subwoofer Replacement: step 15, image 1 of 1
    • Pull the optical drive upward from its edge closest to the display and remove it from the upper case.

    Because I skipped steps 6, 7, 8, and 11. when removing the hard drive enclosure (I had already the dual drive running, but I needed to replace the drive in the optical enclosure, I found it easier to remove the enclosure by lift the side close to the battery and main HD and pulling it towards myself (towards main HD and battery).

    pauloau - Yanıt

    Did the same, also because i skipped those steps. It worked, you just have to remove it gently.

    Lucian Onea -

  16. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 Right Speaker/Subwoofer Replacement, Right Speaker/Subwoofer: step 16, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 Right Speaker/Subwoofer Replacement, Right Speaker/Subwoofer: step 16, image 2 of 2
    • Use a plastic opening tool or another thin prying object to carefully pry the right speaker up from the adhesive securing it to the upper case.

    • Start prying up from the edge of the right speaker nearest the display. Starting from the other side may damage one of the antennas.

    • Pry up along the edge of the right speaker until it is separated from the upper case.

  17. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 Right Speaker/Subwoofer Replacement: step 17, image 1 of 1
    • Pull the right speaker away from the optical drive opening.

  18. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 Right Speaker/Subwoofer Replacement: step 18, image 1 of 2 MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Late 2011 Right Speaker/Subwoofer Replacement: step 18, image 2 of 2
    • Peel up the right speaker cable along the edge of the optical drive opening.

    • De-route the cable from the clips near the edge of the logic board.

    • Remove the right speaker/subwoofer assembly from the upper case.

Sonuç

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

19 farklı kişi bu kılavuzu tamamladı.

Phillip Takahashi

Üyelik tarihi: 22-08-2011

84.790 İtibar

87 adet Kılavuz yazıldı

5 Yorum

Done! No troubles - thanks for the parts, iFixit!

Kit - Yanıt

Killer detailed instructions!! However, it’s clear to me that this is going to the shop for repair - way over my head !!! NICE job, though!!

Drew Pieros - Yanıt

I was bloody terrified the whole time but it worked. My audio no longer clips at certain frequencies. Also I feel like a god and my household is quote “very impressed.” Bless your soul Philip!!!!

Emily Gerren - Yanıt

he is an amazing guy!!!!

lle -

hi amazing instructions! super easy to follow… I was able to do this in class with no distractions vert easily. My classmate Vitor fixed this with no problem in exactly 3.47 minutes…. i timed it! Thank you for your service you sir are a saint.. and saved my life. Take care Philip hope you get more badges! fank ya vary much.

lle - Yanıt

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