Eşyalarını Tamir Et Topluluk Mağaza

MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement

Giriş

Use this guide to replace the MagSafe DC-in board.

Neye ihtiyacın var

  1. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement, Remove the lower case screws: adım 1, 1 resimden 1.

    • Remove the following 10 screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro 13" Unibody:

    • Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.

    • Three 13.5 mm Phillips screws.

    Düzenle

  2. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement, Lift the lower case away: adım 2, 1 resimden 1.

    • Slightly lift the lower case and push it toward the rear of the computer to free the mounting tabs.

    Düzenle

  3. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement, Battery: adım 3, 1 resimden 1.

    • For precautionary purposes, we advise that you disconnect the battery connector from the logic board to avoid any electrical discharge.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector up out of its socket on the logic board.

    Düzenle

  4. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement, Fan: adım 4, 3 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement, Fan: adım 4, 3 resimden 2. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement, Fan: adım 4, 3 resimden 3.

    • Use a spudger to pry up the fan connector out of its socket on the logic board.

    • It is useful to twist the spudger axially from beneath the fan cable wires to release the connector.

    • The fan socket and the fan connector can be seen in the second and third pictures. Be careful not to break the plastic fan socket off the logic board as you use your spudger to lift the fan connector straight up and out of its socket. The layout of the logic board shown in the second picture may look slightly different than your machine but the fan socket is the same.

    Düzenle

  5. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement: adım 5, 1 resimden 1.

    • Remove the following three screws:

    • One 7 mm T6 Torx screw

    • Two 5.4 mm T6 Torx screws

    Düzenle

  6. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement: adım 6, 1 resimden 1.

    • Lift the fan out of the upper case.

    Düzenle

  7. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement, Logic Board: adım 7, 3 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement, Logic Board: adım 7, 3 resimden 2. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement, Logic Board: adım 7, 3 resimden 3.

    • Grab the plastic pull tab secured to the display data cable lock and rotate it toward the DC-In side of the computer.

    • Gently pull the display data cable connector away parallel to the board.

    • Do not pull the connector upwards, or you may damage the connector.

    Düzenle

  9. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement: adım 8, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement: adım 8, 2 resimden 2.

    • Remove the following two screws securing the display data cable bracket to the upper case:

    • One 8.6 mm Phillips

    • One 5.6 mm Phillips

    • Lift the display data cable bracket out of the upper case.

    Düzenle

  10. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement: adım 9, 1 resimden 1.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the subwoofer and right speaker connector up off the logic board.

    Düzenle

  11. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement: adım 10, 1 resimden 1.

    • Pull the camera cable connector toward the optical drive to disconnect it from the logic board.

    • This socket is metal and can be easily bent. Be sure to align the connector with its socket on the logic board before mating the two pieces.

    Düzenle

  12. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement: adım 11, 3 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement: adım 11, 3 resimden 2. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement: adım 11, 3 resimden 3.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the optical drive, hard drive, and trackpad cable connectors up off the logic board.

    Düzenle

  13. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement: adım 12, 3 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement: adım 12, 3 resimden 2. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement: adım 12, 3 resimden 3.

    • Use your fingernail or the tip of a spudger to flip up the cable retaining flap on the ZIF socket for the keyboard ribbon cable.

    • Use your spudger to slide the keyboard ribbon cable out of its socket.

    Düzenle

  14. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement: adım 13, 1 resimden 1.

    • Peel the small strip of black tape off the keyboard backlight ribbon cable socket.

    Düzenle

  15. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement: adım 14, 3 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement: adım 14, 3 resimden 2. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement: adım 14, 3 resimden 3.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the cable retaining flap on the ZIF socket for the keyboard backlight ribbon cable.

    • Use your spudger to slide the keyboard backlight ribbon cable out of its socket.

    Düzenle

  16. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement: adım 15, 1 resimden 1.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the battery indicator cable connector up off the logic board.

    Düzenle

  17. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement: adım 16, 1 resimden 1.

    • Use the tip of a spudger to pry the microphone off the adhesive attaching it to the upper case.

    Düzenle

  18. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement: adım 17, 1 resimden 1.

    • Remove the following screws:

    • Two 7 mm T6 Torx screws from the DC-In board

    • Five 3.3 mm T6 Torx screws

    • Two 4 mm T6 Torx screws

    Düzenle

  19. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement: adım 18, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement: adım 18, 2 resimden 2.

    • Removing the battery before lifting out the logic board is not strictly required, but makes removing the logic board easier and safer. If you leave your battery in, be especially careful not to bend the logic board against the battery's case near its bar code.

    • Remove the following Tri-point screws securing the battery to the upper case:

    • One 5.5 mm Tri-point screw

    • One 13.5 mm Tri-point screw

    • Lift the battery out of the upper case.

    Düzenle

  20. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement: adım 19, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement: adım 19, 2 resimden 2.

    • Lift the logic board from its left edge and raise it until the ports clear the side of the upper case.

    • Pull the logic board away from the side of the upper case and remove it, minding the DC-In board that may get caught.

    Düzenle

  21. MacBook Pro 13" Unibody Mid 2010 DC-In Board Replacement, DC-In Board: adım 20, 1 resimden 1.

    • Disconnect the DC-In board by pulling its connector away from the socket on the logic board.

    Düzenle
Sonuç

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

84 farklı kişi bu kılavuzu tamamladı.

4Kılavuz Yorumları

The Tri-wing Y1screwdriver suggested for this procedure is too big for the removal of the battery screws. I completed replacing the DC in board without removing the battery.

rkterao - Yanıt

I have just tested several of those drivers from our shelf in 3 different MacBooks we have here with tri-wing type screws, and they are all a perfect fit. I have sent you an email to try and find out why your driver did not fit, you may have a mid 2009 model with pentalobular screws instead?

Eric Essen -

Thanks! Guide was wonderful! I wish there had been a bit more information about the proper routing of the dc-in cable as the first time I put it back together I accidentally routed the cable on the outside of the mother board riser which made it impossible to seat the display cable hold down clamp properly. I had to re-remove the main board in order to get the dc-in cable on the other side of the riser. Not a biggie, but a note on that step would be helpful. Thanks again!!

joyandrob - Yanıt

So I switched it out, but in the process ripped the battery indicator cable connector, and now the wifi doesn’t work either… it’s super slow to start up. Any suggestions for fixes?

KitandJake Book - Yanıt

Yorum Ekle

İstatistikleri Görüntüle:

Son 24 Saat: 3

Son 7 gün: 24

Son 30 gün: 79

Her zaman: 67,874