Introduction
Use this guide to replace your hard drive cable. A new hard drive cable also provides a new IR sensor.
-
-
Remove the following 10 screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro 13" Unibody:
-
Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.
-
Three 13.5 mm Phillips screws.
-
-
-
-
Slightly lift the lower case and push it toward the rear of the computer to free the mounting tabs.
In the introduction you should link fixers to this excellent doc: https://www.ifixit.com/Misc/HD_Software_...
It is really critical, super easy, and free(!) to clone your existing drive onto the new one you will install. I ran into one error, but SuperDuper! support replied immediately on how to fix it...Thanks ifixit and SuperDuper! (I ponied up the $28 for the software anyway, I was so impressed!)
-
-
-
Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the battery connector up out of its socket on the logic board.
why is step 3 necessary?
Citazione da gansodesoya:
why is step 3 necessary?
Removes the possibility of any current flow. This is especially important if you are trying to mitigate the damage to the circuitry due to a spill on a keyboard.
$@$@. Don't use an non-isolated screwdriver for this. I just shorted-out my battery :(
You are absolutely right, never use a screwdriver on the logic board or any connector! Delicate use of fingernails or a credit card will get you through most situations if you lack a spudger.
How do you get that battery connector back on? Do you just press it in back in place after you're done?
yes. I usually plug it in before I screw it down so I can lift the battery a bit and have enough slack to be able to go straight down on the connector, otherwise it comes in on a bit of an angle, which can't be good (though not necessarily bad).
Would it not be advisable to drain the battery completely before attempting to repair, if you want to be sure you don't get a spark when removing the battery connector?
Berlugana
Disconnecting the battery connector is not that different from simply unplugging a battery from an older model MacBook with a removable battery. You're not trying to protect yourself from a "spark", but the internal circuitry when taking the MacBook apart.
I neglected step 3 and now my computer won't turn on. Could I have shorted out my logic board?
I had the same problem , my macbook doesn't switch on working
A very easy and fast update indeed! Using this guide and the tools indicated on top I replaced the two RAM cards (2GB each) with two 8GB RAM cards from OWC for a total of 16GB RAM in my MBP Middle 2010 Core 2 Duo (Officially not supported according to Apple).
.
Make sure you select RAM with these specs: 16GB DDR3 PC8500 1066MHz Kit (8GBx2)
.
Apps open much faster and I can run a virtual machine at a decent speed.
Removing the battery is not required, but in some instances can make installing ram much easier. If you plan on upgrading from 4GB (2X 2GB) to 8GB (2X 4GB) Removing the battery would be better. There are two levels of ram. If you are replacing both levels, then remove the battery. If you are just replacing the top, dont bother. Removing the battery for very long or even at all (depending on the CMOS battery age and health) could possibly reset settings, the clock, saved wifi passwords, and more.
It is beneficial to remove the battery at this stage.
This step almost finished me, and I did extensive damage to the battery plug. Fortunately, I later replaced the battery, and the replacement came with a new plug! :) Newbies need to know - 1. The battery plug is like a thin lip on a thicker lip, so you need to pry BETWEEN 2 thin lips to get it off, else you are trying to yank out the socket. 2. Mine was initially VERY tight, and trying to get it out broke the plastic on all sides of plug, even though I was as careful as possible. Luckily, this didn't hurt functionality and I later replaced the battery. AFTER disconnecting once, it was never so tight again,
Guys I just used my index finger nail. It’s the most useful nail to let grow a little bit for this type of procedure. Came off pretty easy when using both my right hand index and left hand index together to lift the plug up out. Found some plastic folded it and place it right over the socket so the plug would go back in and now the plug holds the plastic in place so I can focus on the main work.
-
-
-
Remove two Phillips screws securing the hard drive bracket to the upper case.
-
-
-
Remove the hard drive cable by pulling its connector straight away from the hard drive.
You can stop here if you only need to replace the hard drive, right?
Only if you don't want a hard drive in your MacBook Pro. ;P
*Step 7: REMOVE HDD
*Step 8: REPLACE HDD
Key steps if you need to save or access data. That is, unless you use an external HDD. Then yes, you can stop at step 7.
Straight-forward and easy to follow.
No problems except minor ones from not reading all the text...easily fixed by reading :-)
Used Carbon Copy Clone rather than Super Duper to clone drive.
I fixed it. I don't know which of the following did it. 1) I ran all software updates to the OS using the MacBook before transferring the drive again into the MBP, and 2) when I installed the drive I disconnected the battery – perhaps this reset the SMC. While booting, I held Option and it recognized the new HD right away. From then on, it booted fine.
Quote from Blake:
I did this exactly with a 7200 RPM WD Scorpio that I had been using in my MacBook 13" Unibody (before Apple discontinued that). I get a nasty crash on boot, even with the OS X 10.6 Install DVD. I mean BSOD-equivalent crash. The MacBook Pro is brand new. Anybody know why this happens?
This could be from the Apple firmware update for 7200 RPM Drives. They released an update because these were causing vibration that people were complaining about. Maybe it wouldn't function without update?
I guess it's probably my fault that I broke the SATA cable during this step (unless the cable was somehow already weakened), but for anyone reading this, be extra careful. My connector was fitted really tightly, and when it finally came out it ripped the cable, which is pretty expensive in its own right (although you can get a cheaper deal on eBay).
Had no issue since installation of a 7200RPM WD Scorpio 750GB drive and had no issues with vibration. I did notice back when I got this MacBook Pro though, the pre-installed Apple branded drive was only performing at half of the 3Gbps potential (1.5)
I could see letting Apple get away with that on a consumer level machine but for the premium price, I expect performance.
Needless to say even running the same HDD on my same MBP, I've had not a single problem with the HDD upgrade. Best money spent on it along with additional RAM.
Everywhere I see recommendations for a torx t6 driver yet many warn me I need a tr6 security driver. ???? Are ALL macs including the mid 2010 using the tamper resistant screws? I am going blind trying to see the pin in the middle!
-
-
-
Remove the following four screws securing the hard drive and IR sensor cable to the upper case:
-
Two 1.5 mm Phillips screws.
-
Two 9.5 mm Phillips screws.
-
Taking the two little screws from the cable was easy... putting them back was another story LOL. It really would have been helpful to have a magnetic precision screwdriver so the teeeeeeny little screws would stick to it... because trying to get them back into the hole, when the new cable is still kinda bouncy and not bent to those sharp right angles... I actually launched one of them about 3 feet away when my finger slipped and the cable popped up with the screw in the hole (but not yet tightened). Luckily I found it, and eventually got them screwed back in!
is there anywhere i could buy another set of the screws that hold down the hdd cable? i think mine is broken and i could get it out of it's socket, any information about the screw specs is very appreciated, thanks
-
-
-
Lift the hard drive/IR sensor cable assembly out of the upper case.
I bought the cable from ifixit and did have to peel off the IR receiver, which was surprisingly challenging. I'd never come across the ribbon cable clamp connection before and so didn't know how to open it, or how much of the new cable needed to go in. I'd also suggest marking the location of the cable that attaches to case bottom, before you pull it off. A few pencil marks would work. (That's probably a step 8 add)
I had the same challenge with the ribbon cable clamp. There is a tiny orange ribbon, visible in the lower left corner of the photo for step 10, above, that needs to be connected to the new part using a tiny clamp, also visible right there in step 10. To open it, you flip up part of the clamp that is opposite the ribbon. That will release the ribbon, and enable you to slide the ribbon into the new clamp, which then you can adhere to the bracket. Hope that's helpful for future fixers.
Thank you, Bryony! Very helpful clarification on how to open the clamp. All set now.
Lucas -
Thanks. You comment should be added to the guide along with a close up photo.
Thanks to Bryony I easily fastened the small orange connector. For future fixers: I photographed the little clamp while opened: http://imgur.com/a/1cYyx. Use the edge of a credit card or a plectrum to open it.
Pete -
Thanks for posting these tips. Made detaching and then attaching little orange cable possible for me.
It would REALLY be helpful if there were some instructions with close-up photos to guide you through the process of removing AND re-attaching the IR sensor component to a new drive cable. This is not intuitive and the part is very small and fragile. Forcing things the wrong way will quickly result in breaking parts. Bryony's comments were very helpful (Thank YOU!). Any way to get these steps added to the guide?
Does anyone have pictures of how to reinsert the IR orange cable? Or a link to a site that does..stuck at that part
Success. I agree that this is the trickiest part of the job, and is the least documented.
Getting orange ribbon cable off is relatively easy, but reseating it onto the new cable was an <OMG, I am going to break this> moment.
My approach was to slide the side of a credit card underneath and use that as an in situ support. I was then able to exert some lateral force to reseat the orange cable connector into the connector on the black plastic terminal piece of the new cable.
NB: I did unpeel the sticky back of the black piece before reconnecting cables.
Advice: at the end, stick the length of the cable to the case following the original path; make sure it is flush with the other side of the case on the short vertical drop. Any slack in the cable length will foul the replacement of the back IR sensor assembly.
Good Luck!
(PS: got my cable cheaply from eBay, but I note that the date stamped on the cable is 2009, so if it was a faulty batch from that period, maybe I have a problem in store for the future...?)
Pic 1,2 : the new 2012 cable does not fit on the old 2009 Mac.
Pic 3 : the 2009 cable on the 2009 Mac.
Pic 4, 5 : both cables 2012 821-1480-A (new but does not fit), 2009 821-0814-1 (defective, to be replaced).
Pic 6 : the clamp closed.
Pic 7 : the clamp opened with orange ribbon still in.
Pic 8, 9 : orange ribbon out.
I could open the clamp with nail.
I could unscrew with PH00.
Some crews hard as mentioned.
Sorry for the bad pictures, I did not set my camera at max resolution.
Presbytes have good lenses !
From which direction do I flip up the IR sensor ribbon cable clamp?
For future readers..... Just came across this post which explain with good photos about how to flip up the IR sensor ribbon cable clamp.
-
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
Cancel: I did not complete this guide.
196 other people completed this guide.
17 Comments
This is a useful guide as usual, but I think ifixit might slitly change it, and give a little picture to show how to remove the bracket from the cable :)
This is exactly what I wanted to see and they didn’t have it :( but it worked out okay in the end!
Pretty straight forward guide - follow other user's directions for replacing the IR receiver (if you didn't purchase a new one). Fairly easy as well.
Only complication I had was with extremely tight screws, which with screwdriver heads with tighter fits becomes a non-problem immediately.
Didn't realize this was such a prevailing problem as the issues with my HDD were fairly obscure/didn't follow some of the general problems that other users online were encountering.
Fantiastic!!
I had an SSD installed but it stopped working after a few months and I got the flashing question mark folder. It was very odd as the disk drive still worked, and the SSD did externally. Heard it could be the SATA as SSDs are more sensitive to damaged cables, so replaced it on the off chance and it worked! Definitely recommend trying this first if you have had the same problem
Wow, this worked so GOOD! ...and those derps at the local Apple retailer told me to "let the computer go, and take a look at the new ones we have here!"
Did troubleshooting with ifixit, ordered part from ifixit and followed step-by-step guide provided by ifixit! You guys rule!
Many thanks from Sweden!
This worked like a charm. My mid 2010 MacBook Pro is back. Although it was temping to claim my Mac as dead and buy the latest baddest MacBook, I had to try a $50 fix. It worked. I saved over $1200 now. I want to see how long my 2010 Mac lasts now. Thanks ifixit.com.
This went very smoothly. I had already tried replacing the hard drive, so there were only a few new steps for me. Glad I didn't have to take apart the bracket and light in the last step. Time machine is chugging away as I speak, and my 2010 is not on the scrap heap just yet.
This is the second time this cable has failed in this machine (Apple fixed it once for free). Seeing the FIVE right-angle bends the cable makes to get from the disk to the motherboard connector makes it clear why this part fails. Being able to buy this cable from iFixit and follow the step-by-step guide is GREAT--since Apple refuses to touch machines after they are five years old.
One hint for reassembly: first pin the cable down with the four screws, then attach the motherboard connection, then use something to temporarily hold the disk connector/cable out of the way, then pre-place the sensor/light cable against the case so you know where you want it to go, then cheat the paper glue cover off of the sensor/light cable as you smooth it against the case. Then the disk connector goes onto the disk, the disk seats easily, and then the retaining bracket is trivial.
Removing the sensor/light/disk-seat from the case was a little fiddly. It feels "stuck" because the cable is GLUED to the case!
Hello everyone! I did the same thing replaced it with a new cable but still the same blinking questions and now no commands are working to boot on safe mode or recovery mode! I also tried reset the PRAM smc etc....it just stays on the blinking question mark n shuts down by itself after a few minutes! Much help and support would be appreciated.....
Hello;
It would be possible to install the same cable but without the bracket?
Best buy told my coworker's daughter that the motherboard needed to be replaced... unseating/reseating the HD cable connection to the motherboard worked for a short time then it would go bad. Replacing the cable seems to have solved the problem. Not sure why this says 30 min to 1 hr and moderate complexity - this is easy and takes 10 min.
I did this twice. Worked both times on separate Macs. It fixed the flashing file question mark.
The part arrived pretty fast. Replacing the old cable did the trick. Can’t believe this is an Apple design, as this cable is easily broken. Thanks to ifixit my son has my old 2010 macbook pro. Good machine to start on for a 6 year old…
I changed the cable but im still getting the blinking folder… What should I do know?
Bonjour, Hello
Je ne comprends pas comment récupérer la fixation du disque dur et le témoin lumineux, Merci à qui me renverra vers une explication plus détaillée
I do not understand how to recover the fixation of the hard disk and the indicator light, thanks to who will send me to a more detailed explanation
Noël
It looks like you need a Phillips #000 screwdriver for the 10 bottom screws. I tried the #00 and it's too big. Good thing I bought a 23 piece precision screwdriver set or else I would have been screwed.
scott523 - Reply
The 10 screws that hold tha bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesnt fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough. The only thing that I needed a #000 driver for was the keyboard screws. They're so small they look like specks of dirt or sand. I stripped out 4 of them & now will need to grind the heads off with a Dremel/rotary tool. The other thing that sucks is iFixit doesn't have a tutorial for keyboard replacement!
iphonetechtips -
A true Phillips head screw's slots are rounded at their inner corners, to allow the screwdriver to "cam out" (pop out) of the screw head before you apply too much torque and strip the threads in the part that you're torqueing the screw into. However, the screws used in the Macbook don't have those rounded inner corners, so they're not Phillips. Instead, they may be a Japanese standard known as JIS B 1012, or a Frearson (also known as a Reed & Prince), but that's a less common design. Maybe technically these non-Phillips screws should be used with a screwdriver that was specifically designed for them, but they can be properly removed and reinstalled using a truly precision-made Phillips #00 (some people find a #000 sometimes works even better) whose tip comes to a sharp point--not the lousy fake "precision" screwdrivers that are sold in too many places. See my next comment for more.
johnsawyercjs -
Many screwdriver manufacturers get away with marketing fake "precision" screwdrivers because, in the words of the Wikipedia article at https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_sc...: "Most heads come in a range of sizes, typically distinguished by a number, such as "Phillips #00" or "Torx T5." These sizes do not necessarily describe a particular dimension of the drive shape, but are often arbitrary designations in the same sense as a "Size 8" dress."
In other words, the quality of many "precision" screwdrivers is poor. In my experience, one of the biggest problems with many fake "precision" Phillips screwdrivers is that the four blades at the tip are often too wide, and their width may even vary on the same screwdriver (they're not supposed to). So just because a screwdriver is marketed as a "precision screwdriver", it may not be, and many that are labeled as #00, or even #000, will not work for a Macbook's screws. See my next comment for still more.
johnsawyercjs -
One of the best manufacturers of precision screwdrivers is Wiha (http://www.wihatools.com/tech-tools/prec... cost more, but they're worth it. Or buy screwdrivers from iFixit, who seem to be selling JIS screwdrivers.
Another article with some good info on screw and screwdriver types:
http://www.instructables.com/id/When-a-P...
Also keep in mind that some screws are tougher to remove and reinstall because they have a thread-locking compound on them, which is usually blue.
johnsawyercjs -
Phillips #00 is the correct screwdriver for the lower case. Maybe the one you have is worn or badly made.
David Fear -
Perfect man!Many thanks!:)
wertaerte - Reply
Compare the short screws carefully before reinstalling them. The shouldered screws go in the holes on the front edge.
twisk - Reply
thanks twisk, I wish i would have read your tip before I finished putting the bottom of my laptop back together. I managed to get all screws in somehow, but one was in fact too-tight.
BTW, big big thanks to the Author: Andrew Bookholt. Just used this guide and my trackpad now works again.
xitxit2 -
i too need a #000 for the bottom of the case -- i got the recommended screwdriver (#00) and unfortunately it's too big
plins718 - Reply
Before I started removing any screws I took a piece of paper and drew the bottom of the laptop and put a piece of double-sided tape in the spot where each screw goes. That way when I took out the screws, I could put them on the tape so I knew exactly which screw went in which spot. I did the same thing for dismantling the inside on another sheet of paper, then a third sheet for the screen after getting the front glass off.
mastover - Reply
I use a similar technique: I print out the iFixit manual for the job, and Scotch-tape down the screws/brackets/cables I remove at each step next to the component descriptions. That way, when I'm reassembling, the bits are taped right next to the photo of where they came from.
adlerpe -
That's exactly what I do for all my repairs! It's the best way to keep track of all of the parts ' original location and to make sure that you don't miss any parts during reassembly.
joyitsjennie -
Great idea and one I use often
Thomas Overstreet -
Excellent idea! Thanks for sharing it here.
Laura Sharkey -
The colours you used for these circles are indistinguishable for colour-blind people. Please consider using something like the palette suggested by visibone: http://www.visibone.com/colorblind/
Eric Sorenson - Reply
Squares, Circles, Triangles (you get the idea) would work as well to distinguish the different screws.
danzeitlin -
I'd use a Phillips #000 screwdriver also. The #00 can work, but if the screws are in really tight, it doesn't get far enough down into the screws to get purchase, so it will start to strip (and I agree that the screws are pretty soft). On mine, the screws for the fan were really tight, started to strip with #00, needed a #000 and quite a bit of pressure to get them to move.
jonathanmorgan - Reply
I thought it took a 000 as well. However, I tried both and realized the 00 works best.
john - Reply
Hi i was wondering if you can add 16gb to this model? or is 8 the maximum?
Igor - Reply
The Mid 2010 MacBook Pro 13" does support 16 GB RAM, but it is very picky about the type of RAM. OWC sells a 16 GB kit (2x 8 GB). I think it's got to be 1066 (aka 1067) MHz RAM. A lot of 8 GB modules on the market now are faster than 1066 MHz, and reports I've read say people start getting kernel panics if they use the wrong RAM.
Some info here:
http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/ma...
"1066 MHz PC3-8500 DDR3 SDRAM"
"*Originally, both the official and actual maximum RAM was 8 GB. However, as confirmed by site sponsor OWC, if running OS X 10.7.5 or higher, updated with the latest EFI, and equipped with proper specification memory modules, this model can support up to 16 GB of RAM."
Our Mid 2010 already had "the latest EFI" (i.e. Boot ROM version in System Profiler), so the reference to updating it may not be relevant.
Winston -
I used a 00 that fit but the screws were very tight so I used a tiny paintbrush with some wd40 on it and put it around the edges of the screws. Worked like a charm
valentinedhdh - Reply
I had the same problem. The #00 screwdriver worked for some of the screws but some others were too tight and I had to use a #000. Maybe it was because the cover had slightly bent because the battery inside had basically doubled its width, but I still found that the #000 was a much better fit for these screws. Even the ones that came out with the #00 came out much easier with the #000. I would suggest updating this guide to suggest using a #000.
tarriojuan - Reply
Had no idea they were so expensive.
Franklin - Reply
Phillips #00 is the right tool for all the steps (Except the 4 HD T6 screws). Maybe there is dirt in the notch.
Luis Soto - Reply
There is any chance to use the Toshiba MQ01ABD 1 TB 2.5" Internal Hard Drive MQ01ABD100 , it has7200 rpm , shuold it work?
Luis - Reply
If you are running OS X 10.11.2 or newer, battery provided by iFixIt will not work. I've already tried 2 batteries from iFixIt and neither worked. iFixIt needs to come clean on this unfortunate situation. I've already put 8 hours into this futile effort when it should have taken me 45 minutes.
gkofga - Reply
What was your solution? I'm using 10.11.3 OS X. I may need a battery replacement very soon too.
John Doe -
<i>The 10 screws that hold that bottom case take a #00 Phillips driver, if yours doesn't fit it's probably because it's cheaply made & not precise enough.</I>
I purchased the IFixIt 54 bit Driver Kit and their Phillips #00 are <b>NOT</b> the appropriate size for the bottom screws on this MacBook Pro. This manual needs to have the tools changed to Phillips #000 Screwdriver. Until then I shall not click the "Give the author +30 points" button. Apart from that, the rest of the manual is very good. It would also be an idea to make a comment about making sure the battery connector is in the correct position when plugging the battery back in. One poster commented that their battery will not charge anymore. My guess is a pin(s) was/were bent due to the connection not being in the vertical orientation when being pressed back together. :-)
THANK YOU for writing and generously supplying this guide for our use. It is much appreciated. +30 point coming when the Phillips #000 size is changed or added.
Joseph King - Reply
It would be nice to remind fixers which length screws go back in which holes, in case they get mixed up...
Mike - Reply
Wonderful guide
Freda - Reply