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MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Models A1226 and A1260 Hard Drive Replacement

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  1. MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Models A1226 and A1260 Hard Drive Replacement, Battery: adım 1, 3 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Models A1226 and A1260 Hard Drive Replacement, Battery: adım 1, 3 resimden 2. MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Models A1226 and A1260 Hard Drive Replacement, Battery: adım 1, 3 resimden 3.
    • Use your fingers to push both battery release tabs away from the battery, and lift the battery out of the computer.

    Before start, make a clone of your old HD into the new one, if you don't want to initiate a fresh copy. (Carbon Copy software is good).

    ColmillodeChile - Yanıt

    Besides using WD 500GB models, are the WD 640GB and WD 750GB (the 9.5mm thickness model) good to go for? I am still considering as I have heard from other websites on the computer does not draw enough power to power up the 640 and 750 as it has the clicking sound and the rainbow keeps appearing. Anyone has install one before yet?

    Please advice. Appreciated! Thanks a million to all the Mac gurus out there!

    Danny Lim -

    ColmillodeChile kullanıcısından alıntı:

    Before start, make a clone of your old HD into the new one, if you don't want to initiate a fresh copy. (Carbon Copy software is good).

    What is this about removing the PRAM battery causing a reinitialization of the HDD? For serious?

    Adrian - Yanıt

    No, that's nonsense

    max damage -

    Adrianthomaspre kullanıcısından alıntı:

    What is this about removing the PRAM battery causing a reinitialization of the HDD? For serious?

    Wait, I misunderstood you. I thought the comment was directed at the PRAM battery removal page. Silly me.

    Nevermind. Yes, it is always a good idea to backup one's data before doing stuff like this. I never do, and have never had any problems, but it's still a good idea.

    Adrian - Yanıt

    The two screws removed in step 3 should not be mixed with screws in steps 5 through 7. Though similar, they are actually slightly shorter and have a bigger head. If you put the longer screws back in here when reassembling, the button to unlatch the top will not work properly.

    Doug - Yanıt

    Doug kullanıcısından alıntı:

    The two screws removed in step 3 should not be mixed with screws in steps 5 through 7. Though similar, they are actually slightly shorter and have a bigger head. If you put the longer screws back in here when reassembling, the button to unlatch the top will not work properly.

    I think you may have commented on the wrong page. This page only has 3 steps, and the screws are removed in step 2, not 3.

    (MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Models A1226 and A1260 RAM Replacement)

    Don - Yanıt

    I'm not sure how the user notes get attached to the various procedures here, but my comment does seem to show up properly when viewing the steps for Hard Drive Replacement. However, the number of the step may be off if viewed as part of another procedure.

    Don kullanıcısından alıntı:

    I think you may have commented on the wrong page. This page only has 3 steps, and the screws are removed in step 2, not 3.

    (MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Models A1226 and A1260 RAM Replacement)

    Doug - Yanıt

  2. MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Models A1226 and A1260 Hard Drive Replacement, RAM Shield: adım 2, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Models A1226 and A1260 Hard Drive Replacement, RAM Shield: adım 2, 2 resimden 2.
    • Remove the three identical 2mm Phillips screws from the memory door.

    • Lift the memory door up enough to grip it and slide it toward you, pulling it away from the casing.

    These screws are different from the rest, they should be kept separate from the others.

    foregoing-celery - Yanıt

    Replacing RAM on an A1226: The instructions said Phillips #00, but the screwdriver that fit the RAM Shield screws for me was a Phillips #0.

    dlyons - Yanıt

    Concur, my screws were Phillips #0 as

    Lee Haelters - Yanıt

  3. MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Models A1226 and A1260 Hard Drive Replacement, Upper Case: adım 3, 1 resimden 1.
    • Remove the two 2.8 mm Phillips screws in the battery compartment near the latch.

    These screws are different from the rest, they should be kept separate from the others.

    foregoing-celery - Yanıt

    Keep these two Philips screws separate. The screws are approximately 0.5mm shorter in length. When using one or two of the other longer screws in the battery compartment when reassembling, the lid will not open because the screw(s) do yam the lid button.

    Peter van Nes - Yanıt

    I had a logic board replaced by Apple (bad nVidia GPU), and believe it or not the Apple tech mixed up the screws. My latch did not work as good until I discovered and swapped the misplaced screws.

    madmaxmedia - Yanıt

    No believe it or not about it! I had same board replacement job done, and a screw was angled and crossthreaded, and the memory cover was hacked into place with insulating sheet lifted and crumpled.

    Lee Haelters -

    I removed the memory here as you would normally if you were changing it.

    Mike Matthias - Yanıt

    Use #00 phillips bit

    Jace - Yanıt

  4. MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Models A1226 and A1260 Hard Drive Replacement: adım 4, 1 resimden 1.
    • Remove the following 6 screws:

    • Two 10 mm T6 Torx screws on either side of the RAM slot.

    • Four 14.5 mm Phillips screws along the hinge.

  5. MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Models A1226 and A1260 Hard Drive Replacement: adım 5, 1 resimden 1.
    • Remove the four 3.2 mm PH00 Phillips screws on the port side of the computer.

    If you are using a muffin pan to keep removed parts separate (a method I recommend highly), note that Steps 5, 6, and 7 involve removing the same size screw—and thus you can put them all in the same pile. This is unlike just about every other part you will remove during this procedure.

    Matt McCaffrey - Yanıt

    Using shot glasses!

    peterbcpa -

    If you are a mac newbie like me take care when you reassemble not to insert a screw in the DVI display port screw holes (shame). I cannot manage to get it out anymore.

    tai manu - Yanıt

    I did the same thing once, and eventually got it out. Try tweezers, a screwdriver, magnets, holding the MBP on its side so gravity is working with you, etc. Eventually the little bugger will come out, you just have to keep working at it.

    madmaxmedia -

    It would be a good idea to put some sticky tape on those two DVI display port holes, so that you never make the mistake to insert (when reassemble) any of the screws!

    genik - Yanıt

    RE: Misplaced Screws in the DVI port, I was upgrading an early 2008 MacBook Pro with an SSD to get some more life out it, and sure enough, misplaced one of these small screws into the DVI port upon reassembly. Screwdrivers, shaking, gravity... nothing worked. UNTIL I went to my dad's house and his super-comprehensive workbench, where he found a small, high-pull magnet and the little bugger flew right out. Refrigerator magnets won't cut it, you will need a more powerful magnet, such as these: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?...

    Hope this helps someone... it was an easy solution to a frustrating problem

    John Lee - Yanıt

  6. MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Models A1226 and A1260 Hard Drive Replacement: adım 6, 1 resimden 1.
    • Rotate the computer 90 degrees and remove the two 3.2 mm Phillips screws from the rear of the computer.

  7. MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Models A1226 and A1260 Hard Drive Replacement: adım 7, 1 resimden 1.
    • Rotate the computer 90 degrees again and remove the four 3.2 mm Phillips screws from the side of the computer.

  8. MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Models A1226 and A1260 Hard Drive Replacement: adım 8, 3 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Models A1226 and A1260 Hard Drive Replacement: adım 8, 3 resimden 2. MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Models A1226 and A1260 Hard Drive Replacement: adım 8, 3 resimden 3.
    • Do not yank the upper case off quickly. The case is attached to the logic board via a ribbon cable.

    • Lift up at the rear of the case and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case.

    • There are four plastic clips above the DVD slot, and another above and to the left of the IR sensor. These clips can be very difficult to disengage without prying. They can also be difficult to re-engage during reassembly.

    • Reassembly Tip: Press down firmly on the tip of the top case above the location of each clip until you hear a snap to reseat them in their slots.

    • Reassembly Tip: The two center DVD clips will rarely snap back into place properly without help, and downward pressure will instead simply deform the frame around the DVD slot. Support the frame by inserting a plastic spudger into the DVD slot directly under the clip location until it is snug, then press down until you hear the snap.

    The clips above the DVD slot (below the deck palm rest) are an absolute bear. They're hard to get released, and even harder to get back locked when you reassemble. (I've read to tilt the deck toward you when reassembling, inserting the front edge first, and press about an inch back from the edge to get all the front clips locked first before lowering the rest (back) of the deck.) No success for me yet, best of luck.

    sonofray - Yanıt

    I thought these two videos did an excellent job of showing the technique of removing and replacing the drive.

    MacBook Pro/PowerBook Keyboard Replacement (Part 1 of 3):

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUonF9OSv...

    MacBook Pro/PowerBook Keyboard Replacement (Part 3 of 3):

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JWeFXWXpp...

    After watching that, I had the keyboard replaced in 2 minutes.

    Chris -

    the technique you describe of putting the front down first, is exactly what I did and it worked well

    dillonsavard -

    Those clips on the front edge are very challenging. I have a set of nylon pry tools that are for taking apart car dashboards without scratching the vinyl or plastic. I was able to get a long one in from the side and twist it which freed the clips without damaging the plastic on the upper case or the aluminum on the lower case.

    Putting it back together presented another challenge. When I first re-assembled it I think I pushed too hard over the DVD slot and accidentally bent the metal down. I was able to bend it back up using a thicker part of those same nylon pry tools, and then i was able to get it snapped back down successfully. Had I known this would happen, I would have just put the nylon tool in the slot to reinforce the metal as I was snapping the case back down.

    Nick - Yanıt

    As everyone has said, the front clips by the DVD can be really tight. Use the spudger to pry the top and bottom halves apart. Slow work it in from one side to separate the top and bottom.

    When reassembling the case, work the front clips by the DVD drive back in first. Once you slide them back in, the rest of the case fits easily.

    Ted Wise - Yanıt

    i've used an old atm card, it works fine.

    rotarypot - Yanıt

    I had a lot of trouble with getting those clips to lock in place again when reassembling. The way I eventually did it was to wedge something into the front of the CD/DVD slot so that I wouldn't warp the laptop casing. I used the end of a pen; when wedged in the tip of the pen was the right height to not support the casing above and below the CD/DVD slot and not allow it to warp.

    I simply ensured the pen was aligned with one particular clip, lifted the laptop slightly, and squeezed the top and bottom edge of the laptop casing very firmly at that point. Each clip clicked in quite easily doing it this way. Just remember to move the pen (or whatever you are using) along to whichever clip you are clicking in.

    David - Yanıt

    You're on the right track David. But what works really good is something that gets more surface area contact than the pen--I carefully insert a stack of 3" square post-it notes about 3/8" into the slot. And because they're stacked, you can easily add/subtract post-its to get as tight a fit as possible. Then, assuming you have everything lined up, use quite a bit of downward pressure. You should hear a few snaps as the clips reseat.

    David kullanıcısından alıntı:

    I had a lot of trouble with getting those clips to lock in place again when reassembling. The way I eventually did it was to wedge something into the front of the CD/DVD slot so that I wouldn't warp the laptop casing. I used the end of a pen; when wedged in the tip of the pen was the right height to not support the casing above and below the CD/DVD slot and not allow it to warp.

    I simply ensured the pen was aligned with one particular clip, lifted the laptop slightly, and squeezed the top and bottom edge of the laptop casing very firmly at that point. Each clip clicked in quite easily doing it this way. Just remember to move the pen (or whatever you are using) along to whichever clip you are clicking in.

    John Kassler Niemann - Yanıt

    John, I didn't think of that. But yeah you are right, it would give it a lot more support.

    David - Yanıt

    I have none of the problems above just was very careful, but inserting the palm rest in first does most of the work , gently does it looking at the alinement of the clips as you go straight in she goes!

    swissgrip - Yanıt

    I would agree with everyone that the clips above the DVD drive are very temperamental. They came off easily for me but were a pain getting to clip back in place correctly.

    Make sure you have the front clipped on securely before screwing the case back together otherwise the lid will not close properly.

    Nicolas - Yanıt

    I have taken apart quite a few laptops but this is my first Mac. This confirms my statements, to anyone that will listen, that these are the most "exquisite" machines ever produced. I just performed these HDD Replacement steps and with appropriate fear and trepidation popped the clips off. It would have been very helpful if someone had mentioned that they come straight up. I wasn't sure so I wiggled and (carefully) pried with the spudger until one of them went "POP". The credit card idea was helpful but my card was pretty soft so I didn't dare use it with too much force. When I got the top cover loose I just leaned it back against the screen so as not to take a chance on damaging the cable. Reassembly was according to the notes, but again the spudger was perfect if inserted into the drive slot (careful on the felt!) to support the base of the clips. Thanks to all for the notes. BTW; Prayer helps!

    mikedotten331 - Yanıt

    There is a fifth plastic clip between the IR sensor and the screw hole. (ie. 1 cm left of the IR sensor)

    foregoing-celery - Yanıt

    On the top of the case mark the center of each of the four clips that are over the CD slot and the one clip to the left of the latch with a pencil. When re-installing the top case apply pressure over the clip to the left of the latch until you hear a snap. For the four clips over the CD slot, upend the entire case. Then insert the flat end of the spudger into the CD slot under the center of each clip. Apply pressure from the top of the case while providing support with the spudger in the CD slot until the clip snaps in. This will minimize the chances of bending the CD slot which would prevent CDs from ejecting.

    danno - Yanıt

    Take care reassembling new the DVD drive. It's easy to bend the top piece of metal down (the one that engages the clips) and your DVD can get stuck occasional ejecting. Very annoying. Maybe give it a little prophylactic bend upward. I placed a blunt letter opener in the slot and torqued it, while applying downward pressure from the top deck... This allowed the clips to engage nicely without bending this piece down.

    davidkkim - Yanıt

    I use the iSesamo tool to loose the clips, its a very good tool for this and many other things (I don´t work for iSesamo or iFixit hehe).

    araujogac - Yanıt

    i've used both of my inch nails, it works fine as well. no trouble to report.

    Caroline Masson - Yanıt

    i used a pry tool i had left over from replacing the screen on my iphone, any flat stiff item, like a credit card would work. watch the youtube video linked above, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUonF9OSv..., skip ahead in the video to 4:57 where you see her use a pry tool. I had no problem separating and reassembling this section. Only issue i had was the two screws in the battery area. Only one of them would grab, so I left the other one out.

    owenmhv - Yanıt

    Here is an additional video showing how to remove the cables for both the left and right fans. At time 2:00 in the video he starts to work on the left fan. This video will help prevent you from attempting to detach the cables incorrectly.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=apn3j3mAR...

    owenmhv - Yanıt

    I've opened these up many, many times, and by far the easiest method I have found to disengage the front clips is as follows:

    Lift up the top case by the rear corners near the hinge, keep lifting so the top case is tilting towards you. You will feel some resistance, but keep lifting and you will hear the clips disengage with a 'snap'. Doing it this way should not bend the top case metal or loosen the spacing between the top case metal and plastic trim. The clips will not break, they will still engage when you put the top case back on.

    It basically takes me 5 or 10 seconds to take off the top case now, and the case goes back on nice and tight as before.

    YMMV and all that, but that's my experience.

    madmaxmedia - Yanıt

    Thank you for all the advance warnings, I had no issues with replacing the case. It just snapped into place with a little help from the spudger.

    acuella - Yanıt

    You're welcome! I was the one who added the spudger tips, as I had a devil of a time making the DVD drive clips snap back into place without one when I followed this guide.

    CaptFrost -

    Hello,

    I didn't have much problems reassembling the MacBook. Thanks a lot!

    For the hard reassembly part with the clips: I pushed quite hard with both thumbs directly over the place where the clips are. You need to figure out exactly where they are, but it worked well.

    I repeat it to make it clear: I pushed from the top on the location under which the clip sat, with two thumbs after having checked that the lid was well in place.

    My tools were one spudger and a basic tech toolkit from iFixit.

    Thanks a lot!

    momogingins - Yanıt

    I had not problem easing GENTLY the top case from the computer even around the DVD but I didn't understand how easy it was to disconnect the top case from the mother board. TAKE CARE HERE. It will make reassembly much easier it YOU get to disconnect the plug. See my note on step nine

    reb - Yanıt

  9. MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Models A1226 and A1260 Hard Drive Replacement: adım 9, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Models A1226 and A1260 Hard Drive Replacement: adım 9, 2 resimden 2.
    • Disconnect the trackpad and keyboard ribbon cable from the logic board, removing tape as necessary.

    • Note: It is possible to replace the hard drive without disconnecting the keyboard from the chassis, but it will need to be held upright to keep it out of the way, while still allowing you both hands to work on the drive removal.

    • Be careful when removing the keyboard-trackpad ribbon cable to ensure that the rear of the upper case is disengaged from the area near the hinge. It is easy to accidentally bend the screw receivers on either side of the keyboard.

    • Remove the upper case.

    If you does not have the spudger, use the Dremel to file a wooden piece

    (Chinese stick maybe) to transform in a spatula. Works fine for me

    ColmillodeChile - Yanıt

    If you don't have the magic "spudger," try using a plastic (eating) knife.

    jpkjpkjpk - Yanıt

    I read that you can actually also use the corner of a credit card. I didn't have a spudger and this worked perfectly for me. If you hold the card quite close to the corner and it has just the right amount of flex.

    David - Yanıt

    You may be able to unplug the ribbon connector by lifting each end of the tape.

    MrSafety - Yanıt

    Where can I get the cable from step 9 above?

    just broke it!

    Derry Manley - Yanıt

    That cable is attached to the upper case. It can be found here for the A1226 and here for the A1260.

    Andrew Bookholt -

    To unplug the cable, pull the black connector straight up from the logic board.

    Robert MacLeay - Yanıt

    These are instructions for the right Fan. Step 9 mentions the hard drive not the right fan.

    karen - Yanıt

    I didn`t need to unplugged the cable to change the right fan. As Karen wrote above, it is for a fan to change not necessary.

    Caroline Masson - Yanıt

    I chose not to disconnect this ribbon cable. I used a chopstick to prop open the front panel; just gently place in lower right corned of case and upper right corner inside the top panel. Saves the risk of disconnecting.

    jimmora - Yanıt

    I didn't look well before the plug connecting top case to motherboard (see my note in step 8). When it came time for assembly it took a while for me to figure out when the plug connected in the motherboard. Take care on step 8 so that YOU have to make the disconnection in step 9. Then reassembly on this step will be much easier.

    reb - Yanıt

    Step 9, 2007 Mac Book Pro right fan replacement. It’s not necessary to disengage the keyboard ribbon, you can just tilt the upper shell back and support it against the screen. Be sure not to put tension on the ribbon and to check that the ribbon “plug” is seated securely on the base before reinstalling the top shell.

    These instructions were really great. For $15 I got a used fan off eBay and a Torx T6 driver and Phillips 00 driver from the hardware store. Thanks also for the comment about marking where the plastic clips are by the DVD and IR slot with pencil. When reassembling I slotted a piece of wood (kebab skewer) into the DVD slot and pressed down on the pencil mark with the eraser end of the pencil.

    My 10 year old MacBook Pro is going strong. Thanks for these very much. It was fun to do as well.

    Kirsten - Yanıt

    Hello, I have a MacBook like this but I have seen that in the part of the RAM on the right there is an elongated chip, I don't have it, that could cause the problem of no connection, what is the name of that chip, thank you

    Trepas - Yanıt

  10. MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Models A1226 and A1260 Hard Drive Replacement, Hard Drive: adım 10, 2 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Models A1226 and A1260 Hard Drive Replacement, Hard Drive: adım 10, 2 resimden 2.
    • Disconnect the orange hard drive ribbon cable from the logic board.

    • Remove tape as necessary and use a spudger (or carefully push a credit card under the tape) to carefully loosen the adhesive securing the sleep light and IR sensor connectors to the top of the hard drive.

    • You may find it best to loosen the left edge, then the right edge, then the center of the tape to attack it from all points, so as to gently apply force to the smallest possible sticky surface.

    In my model the glue was really hard, if you think the tools you are using twist the cable too much try with a credit card.

    obsidianart - Yanıt

    Be careful, I made a mistake and ripped off the top part of the motherboard connector. Fortunately, i was able to find the part (harddrive cable) from some Internet vendor.

    roman7927 - Yanıt

    roman7927 kullanıcısından alıntı:

    Be careful, I made a mistake and ripped off the top part of the motherboard connector. Fortunately, i was able to find the part (harddrive cable) from some Internet vendor.

    Agreed. I did the exact same thing. Be Careful!

    welhitamy - Yanıt

    A hint: to minimize any cosmetic gaps between the edges of the top and bottom case, firmly press down the top case with your fingers, squeezing the cases together at each location while installing the left and right side screws, especially toward the front of the computer.

    etnier - Yanıt

    etnier, i don't understand what you are suggesting

    ???

    roeishusel - Yanıt

    I got to this step, and to my dismay, I found that the Torx screws on the hard drive retaining bracket, and the new hard drive were NOT T6. The T6 screwdriver just goes around and around in them. Anyone else have this problem, and know the correct size? It was quite a bummer, since I had to reassemble the whole thing without having completed the project.

    ifixgrax - Yanıt

    Update: I bought a new Torx driver kit, and found that it actually IS a T6! I guess there are variations in how Torx screwdrivers fit into the nuts. Anyway, all seems good. My new 640GB drive is happy in its new home.

    ifixgrax - Yanıt

    If you are replacing the HD with a Seagate Momentus 7200 RPM 500 GB Hard Drive be careful not to cover drive's breath hole since the ribbon cable will exactly pass over it (where the sleep light and IR sensor connectors are). You need to paste it a little bit diagonal. Also as roman7927 and welhitamy said, be VERY careful when removing the ribbon cable from the motherboard, I ripped it off too!

    Good Luck.

    feribz - Yanıt

    I managed to change the hard drive, but with a different aproach on step 10. I did not disconect any of the cables from the motherboard, as I managed to slide the drive out, by lifting it a little, then disconecting only the hard drive cable with the help of the Spudger and slowly out. I think find it safer than removing the delicate conectors from the motherboard. Good luck!

    Bernak - Yanıt

    Bernak kullanıcısından alıntı:

    I managed to change the hard drive, but with a different aproach on step 10. I did not disconect any of the cables from the motherboard, as I managed to slide the drive out

    I followed this process and it worked seamlessly. As long as you have a soft touch you don't have to connect anything other than the hard drive cable and that proved very easy for me.

    Ben Kelly - Yanıt

    Slow and easy seems to be the key to separating the ribbon cable from the top of the drive. I used an alternating approach, emphasizing first one side and then the other of the cable, especially around the curve. The spudger and a plastic card were both useful here.

    Matt McCaffrey - Yanıt

    i didn't prefered touch connector on the motherboard. slowly lift harddrive with fingers. be carefull.

    RAMBOSS HOME - Yanıt

    the tape to the sleeplight/IR will re-adhere & is best removed at step 11, when it can be folded neatly out of the way with the mother board connection under edge of computer case at LH of superdrive

    chris - Yanıt

    I did not need to disconnect the hadrdrive cable from the motherboard. I could carefully plug and unplug the hdd while the cable is still connected to the lower body. Less hassle and less things being able to break.

    tom - Yanıt

    As others here, the second time I replaced the internal drive I didn't disconnect the ribbon cable from the logic board. I was installing an SSD, so maybe it was a little easier than with an HD. However, I don't remember disconnecting and reconnecting the ribbon cable to be an issue.

    ngt - Yanıt

  11. MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Models A1226 and A1260 Hard Drive Replacement: adım 11, 3 resimden 1. MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Models A1226 and A1260 Hard Drive Replacement: adım 11, 3 resimden 2. MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Models A1226 and A1260 Hard Drive Replacement: adım 11, 3 resimden 3.
    • Remove the two 8.2 mm T6 Torx screws securing the hard drive retaining bracket to the lower case.

    • Use a spudger if the hard drive ribbon cable is firmly glued to the top of the drive. You might have to work slowly in order to not damage it.

    • Lift the hard drive retaining bracket up and out of the computer.

    • Lift up the hard drive with one hand and use your other hand to disconnect the hard drive cable.

    I used the round pointed part of the spudger (the opposite end of the one pictured in step 10) and started from the part of the cable that wasn't glued to the top of the hard drive. Insert the round pointed part under the bottom of the cable, perpendicular to it, and then roll it towards the glued part on the hard drive. The cable should separate quite easily from the drive . It was much easier doing it this way than using the chisel part of the spudger to separate the cable from the drive.

    mosburger - Yanıt

    I agree i managed this

    swissgrip - Yanıt

    I was having quite a go as well. This is a great tip. Took some time but nothing bent or broken and all is well =). Try different twirling/spinning techniques and be careful of the ribbon glue sticking to your HDD sticker.

    Imoviebob - Yanıt

    I had to unplug the IR receiver and sleep light connectors to be able to remove the drive. The connectors resist a little; just pull on them carefully but firmly with your fingernails.

    sjbufton - Yanıt

    My ribbon cable was well and truly glued, I watched a few vids on youtube and they were hardly stuck at all.

    But thanks to another comment on one of these guides for recommending DENTAL FLOSS!!

    (a shame there are three separate guides for the pre unibody mbp as many of the processes are the same)

    This worked like a dream, i took my time and used long strokes back and forth. Three frayed and snapped bits of floss later, eventually I was able to saw through the glue.

    Though be sure to have your compressed air to get rid of any fluff (and remember to put your tray of screws somewhere else when you do so :)

    Sam Turner - Yanıt

    I stupidly spent about 20 minutes trying to figure out how to pull the drive out when it was still screwed in on the left side, only to find that they're not screws but just rods that keep the drive in place. Hope this helps save people from making the same mistakes I did!

    marknolte1 - Yanıt

    My cable was truly glued on to the hard drive also. Fortunately it was glued to the metallic sticker identifying the HD. That is to say, the sticker with HD product info, serial number etc. I was able to lift the sticker (and used an exacto knife to strip parts of the sticker away). So instead of ungluing the cable from the sticker, I unstuck the sticker. Hope this helps someone.

    Apart from that slight trouble spot, the swap went well. I had previously cloned the drive and was able to start up with everything except MS Office working fine. MS Office asks for the product key as it detects that the computer is "different" because of the new drive.

    billvdg - Yanıt

    Try these Ulta Thin metal spudgers for iPhone repair. Thinner than a credit card, good grasping and slices thru the glue!

    https://www.amazon.com/Opening-Spudger-S...

    Macrepair SF - Yanıt

    @mac_medic Link doesn’t work

    mosburger -

    Be careful when you'll disconnect the SATA connector on the HDD itself: the area where the ribbon cable bends is quite prone to wear and tear.

    After several disassemblies, I actually broke that ribbon cable by making a slight "cut" on the junction between the upper part of the ribbon cable (the one which goes from the HDD to the motherboard) and the lower part (the one which goes to the latch LED and IR sensor).


    It took me quite some time to find that this ribbon cable was actually broken; as I had no HDD issues, I thought that it was fine. That's only when I found that I had no more latch LED and unrecognized IR sensor, that I carefully examined the ribbon cable, just to find that there was that little cut in the circuitry. Hopefully, I had a spare one, and you can still find it for a few bucks.

    maxime.abbey - Yanıt

  12. MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Models A1226 and A1260 Hard Drive Replacement, Hard Drive: adım 12, 1 resimden 1.
    • Remove the two silver T6 6 mm Torx screws from the left side of the hard drive.

    • You'll need to transfer these screws to your new hard drive if you're changing drives.

    Any idea where I could purchase these screws? I shipped off my drive for replacement and forgot to remove them.

    paul - Yanıt

  13. MacBook Pro 15" Core 2 Duo Models A1226 and A1260 Hard Drive Replacement: adım 13, 1 resimden 1.
    • Remove the two black T6 Torx screws and white rubber bumpers from the right side of the hard drive.

    • You'll need to transfer these screws and bumpers to your new hard drive if you're changing drives.

    • If you are installing a new hard drive, we have an OS X install guide to get you up and running.

    I replaced the 200 GB that came with the A1260 with WD 500GB, 5400 Blue drive. Thanks to this guide. Well written and quite helpful.

    After replacing the drive, I did the installation of Mountain Lion while the case is still open. Once I made sure that it is booting and etc., I closed the case. Now the machine never boots. Used the OS DVD to boot and install the OS. Installation log says 'Repairing Volume...'.

    In the past three days I went to the store and replaced three HDDs. Why the HDD fails once the case is closed? I am really frustruated. Please help. Thanks.

    -SSK

    SSK - Yanıt

    did it, easy-peasy compared to a 2007 MacBook (White Plastic)... installed a 256GB SSD, i came with a spacer to be 9,5mm thick.

    great guide!

    cheers from germany!

    wurstmoped - Yanıt

Sonuç

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

1093 farklı kişi bu kılavuzu tamamladı.

22 Yorum

Hi folks, is it possible to inserting a new 1 GB 2,5" HDD with a thickness of 12.5 mm into the MBP?

can anyone help me?

Sorry about my bad english...

Andreas from germany

Andreas Zowislo - Yanıt

Not to the pre-unibody MBPs it isn't possible, no. Maximum size 9.5 mm drives

Alex Jenner -

I used the A1260 hard drive replacement guide to swop out a Western Digital Scorpio SATA (WD3200BEVT) 320 Gig 5400rpm for a Western Digital SATA (ST9750420AS) Momentus 750 Gig 7200rpm. (http://www.seagate.com/www/en-us/product...) The whole operation went flawlessly thanks to the guide. The improvement in speed / access with the bigger, faster hard drive is very noticeable. Just to let people know that the installation of a 750 gig drive is an accomplished fact in a A1260 series MacBook Pro.

Uncle Jim - Yanıt

Thanks for the very thoroughly and easy-to-follow guide. I'm no technical genius, but thanks to the guide I manage to replace the original disc with a Toshiba THNS 512GG8BBAA. I printed out the instructions and attached the screws with scotch to the right picture as I went along - not a chance of mixing or loosing the screws. It all went well, and the improvement is awesome!

HansO - Yanıt

After some trepidation, it all came together flawlessly in about an hour. Great guide, and good advice in the notes about organizing those 27 screws. This will put at least another year of life in my aging Macbook.

Robert Lied - Yanıt

hello ifixit team,

today I have changed the default 250GB HDD (new: Seagate XT ST95005620AS 500GB SATAII 7200 4GB SSD) from my MacBookPro (4,1 / A1260 / A1260 / Early 2008) and upgraded the RAM to 6GB (2+4): It works!

Thanks for both tutorials the HDD replacement and the RAM upgrade. The "How To" is very good and all the necessary steps are perfect described.

It took not more than 30" at all.

Great job!

Regards HK

Hans - Yanıt

Sorry I forgot:

Now the MBP is so much faster than before. It's incredible. The first thing is the extremely short boot time and the second is the smooth working, because of the additional RAM and the super fast HDD (Hybrid with 4GB SSD).

Hans -

Great guide, thanks! I installed a new Seagate 750 Gb drive in about an hour, so finally I can copy my iTunes and iPhoto libraries back to my internal HD :)

There was only one unexpected thing: maybe because my mbp is 3.5 years old now and I've been using it a lot (and thus has spent quite a few hours being quite warm), the tape that secures the IR sensor and the sleep light cable to the top of the drive was almost fused with the plastic sticker that covered the old Fujitsu drive. Eventually I found that sliding a thin, sharp guitar pick under it and thus carefully separating it worked - almost as if cutting it loose.

See https://img.skitch.com/20111023-p4wdpnw5...

Luthien - Yanıt

Avoid touching the bottom (circuit board) on a harddrive; it might not be dead yet! Grasp the harddrive between thumb and fingers on the [longer] 9.5mm edges.

vendor02 - Yanıt

I used a very dull flat head for the glued wire, it was touch and go, clearly intended to be done by a rep. Thanks for this guide. I just swapped out this old beasts hard drive with a ssd for my wife to use and this guide saved me a lot of headache!!

mike - Yanıt

Are the particular specs I need to pay attention to when buying a SSD? (the controller is only SATA I so will a SATA II or III work?) I'm also watching the 9.5mm thickness. Anything else?

Thanks, Mike

Mike -

All ok with this guide. My only problem was that my macbook pro has some T7 torx and 000 Philips screws too.

danocho - Yanıt

Hi all

I will start first with my comment in English then in French :

I want to thank you ifixit for this guide, even if description has been in french, photos are perfect to understand in case of misunderstanding. Everything works fine ! My 2008 MBP is incredibly fast ! Benchmark from XBench is as least 10times more faster for SSD VS my old HD ! Applications launch in 2secs whereas it takes 12 using the HD !

------

Je remercie ifixit pour ce guide, et même si la description n'est pas en Français, les photos sont juste parfaites en cas de doute. Tout marche nickel ! Mon MBP 2008 est incroyablement rapide ! Un benchmark réalisé avec XBench indique que mon SSD fonctionne au minimum 10x plus vite que mon vieux DD ! Les application se lancent en 2 sec au lieu de 12 avec le DD !

------

See you soon for another fix I have to do :( -> home button of my iPhone4

------

A bientôt pour une nouvelle réparation :( -> bouton home de mon iPhone4 :(

Nicolecameleon - Yanıt

thank you very much.. I was with short of space.. with only 160GB.. I've successfully replaced my HDD to 320 GB from my external USB drive.. I'm very happy.

Now I 'll install windows 7 + Mavericks again.. :)

Thank you so much

Muhammad Farooqi - Yanıt

What is the actual max size hard drive (traditional and SSD) you can upgrade to on an A1260? The i fixit store says 1tb but forum posts say 750. There's a lot of good deals right now but I'd like to get max specs. Thanks!

JasonW - Yanıt

I replaced the internal drive two times (the first one it was a larger HD, the second time an SSD). This guide is absolutely fantastic! Thank you!

ngt - Yanıt

Thanks for the guide, everything worked out fine. Swapped in a SSD with no problems. BTW one of the steps needs a #000 Phillips screwdriver, and I didn't use the spacer that came included with my SSD drive.

MacBook Pro (15-inch Early 2008) / MacBookPro4,1

SanDisk Ultra II 240GB SDSSDHII-240G-G25

mt - Yanıt

Wow! I don't know why I waited so long. Everything went smoothly even snapping the top cover (step 8). My Macbook Pro is really snappy once again. And the 500GB drive I bought from iFixit is working great. Thank You! Thank You! You guys & gals at Ifixit are the best.

Shalabh Agarwal - Yanıt

Just to mention, be careful what drive caddy you buy, mine didn't work and I ended up putting my ssd in the regular drive slot. Now I have to wait until I can order the caddy again. Great guide mostly, worked out.

Maximillian Charles - Yanıt

I've never taken apart a computer before, but I needed to remove and destroy the hard drive before recycling the MacBook. Thank you for the highly detailed set of instructions. The last steps are probably better on video. but for what it is, this is nearly perfect.

Scott Robinson - Yanıt

Do we need an adapter for storage thinner than 9.5mm?

Philippe Morin - Yanıt

would the MX500 work for this procedure or it HAS to be a MX300?

David Apap - Yanıt

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