Giriş
The heat sink helps keep the processor cool and happy.
Neye ihtiyacın var
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Use your fingers to push both battery release tabs away from the battery, and lift the battery out of the computer.
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Remove the two Phillips screws in the battery compartment near the latch.
Getting these screws in and out is difficult because most screwdrivers are longer then the battery compartment is deep and so will be slightly off plumb. When you go to re-assemble the computer, getting these screws to seat is one of the hardest parts of the re-assembly. It's very important to be gentle and not to strip the threads.The screw should tighten and come to a stop after 3-4 turns. If you turn 6 or more turns and don't feel it grab, then back off and try again, making sure that everything is in alignment.It might be easier to start with the left screw, because it is further away from the latch mechanism.
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Remove the four Phillips screws on the port side of the computer.
Be careful when reassembling your laptop -- do not put the screw into the DVI port! It will not come out.
Been there, done that!
I honestly don't remember how did I ultimately succeeded in getting that %#*@ screw back from the hole...by Scott Rose Jan 4 @ 11:12 PM
Be careful when reassembling your laptop -- do not put the screw into the DVI port! It will not come out.
To keep this from possibly happening, I placed 2 pieces of tape over the DVI connector pin holes.
Be careful in step 4, these two screws are shorter than the four screws in step 6, dont mix them up!
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Lift up at the rear of the case and work your fingers along the sides, freeing the case as you go. Once you have freed the sides, you may need to rock the case up and down to free the front of the upper case. This stage can be quite tricky. Over the DVD reader are 4 tabs set back which pull out vertically.
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Note that the two small tongues on the left hand front of the upper case may bend while you remove the upper case. When re-installing, you may need to bend them back to fit in the grooves in the lower case.
khank kullanıcısından alıntı:
On my MacBook, there were no pushbuttons. Rather, two mini phillips screws were holding the case on inside the battery bay. The two screws are under two ball-bearing-like nubs that help hold the battery in the bay.
I just realized these were the screws mentioned in Step 4, which I missed originally. Did you miss step 4 too?
I discovered that I didn't need to take the case off completely. I just propped it up with a small screwdriver and was able to remove the airport card and replace it with a new one fairly easily.
That's not so difficult step. you shoul know , that front edge of upper case holding only on 5 plastic "locks" 4 in front edge upon the superdrive, 5-th near the "sleep light, open laptop button"
just lift up the rear edges of upper case to 35-40 degrees
Archhawk kullanıcısından alıntı:
Getting the top case off, especially right above the optical drive slot was a @#$%^. !^$%. Was finally able to work it loose by twisting in the budger. Be careful.
I agree! It was really very difficult just ROCKING the front panel. NOT done! Do not pry it from the front of the unit, as the soft metal edge gets scratched! I turned the unit upside down and slowly pried the keyboard apart left-to-right from INSIDE the Battery Bay, slipping a plastic pen to keep it apart. When I finally looked at what was holding it down, it was these 5 grey&black plastic SNAP slots, and 4 of them were behind the DVD slot.
I found I had to push with a little force from underneath the battery compartment where the touch pad is located to free the bottom edge of the case. The case came away with two loud snaps. At first I thought I'd broken something, but then it appeared that it was just the plastic above the slot loading super drive that was held in very tightly and needed some encouragement.
There are several clips along the front of the case in front of trackpad and above the optical drive slot. These need to be gently levered open (eg using an old credit card), and clipped closed on reassembly. Start at the left hand side. Take care not to bend the aluminum top. When reassembling, check the top panel for kinks/bends and straighten by hand before reassembly.
The way I did it was to lift the back to about 45% (the ribbon cable is long enough) and then used the spudger to force the 4 snap tabs in front of the optical drive to separate, working from the right edge towards the middle (they will 'pop'), ending with the last tab to the left of the sleep light.
After reading all the step 9 comments I was prepared for it to be very difficult. The two bendable tabs on the left front of the case were no bigger than 1/4 inch wide each and caused no trouble taking it off or putting it back on. Lifting the cover off happened before I knew it. I was carefully lifting the cover from side to side and 'poof' it was off and the yellow ribbon attaching between the case and the keyboard was so old and brittle it parted ways without my permission so that took care of step 10 right there but no problem.
Being prepared, reading the guide, printing the guide, taping each screw to the right place on the guide made it all easy. I'm amazed it went so smooth on the first run-through. Thanks iFixit!
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Disconnect the trackpad and keyboard ribbon cable from the logic board, removing tape as necessary.
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Remove the upper case.
not necessary. just attach a string around both the screen and the keyboard. it will stay in a steady position..
-urdus.
I found that the ribbon connecting the top part of the case to the logic board wasn't long enough and the connector did have to be disconnected.
urdus kullanıcısından alıntı:
not necessary. just attach a string around both the screen and the keyboard. it will stay in a steady position..
-urdus.
Excellent tip! Thanks, this allowed me to skip steps 10 and 11 (any unnecessary tinkering with the logic board is recommended).
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Disconnect the orange SuperDrive ribbon cable from the logic board, removing tape as necessary.
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Remove the following 3 screws:
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Two 3.3 mm silver Phillips screws on either side of the SuperDrive.
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One 4.8 mm black Phillips screw at the top right corner of the drive.
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The 4.8mm screw may be a T6 Torx
On my model (core duo 1.8 ghz Macbook Pro) that "One 4.8mm black Phillips screw at the top right corner of the drive" is a silver Torx T6 screw.
Mine was a silver T6 Torx also.
My machine had a grey Torx here.
dave -
There was one extra silver Torx T6 screw, at the top left of the drive, immediately left of the ribbon cable connection, that I had to remove in order to extract the Optical drive. It is visible in the picture for Step 12.
On my A1150, the black screw wasn't- it is a silver Torx 6
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Disconnect the hard drive and ExpressCard connectors from the left side of the logic board.
Be careful if you choose to disconnect the SATA connector on the HDD itself: the area where the ribbon cable bends (on the bottom left hand corner of this photo) is quite prone to wear and tear. After several disassemblies, I actually broke that ribbon cable by making a slight "cut" on the junction between the upper part of the ribbon cable (the one which goes from the HDD to the motherboard) and the lower part (the one which goes to the latch LED and IR sensor).
It took me quite some time to find that this ribbon cable was actually broken; as I had no HDD issues, I thought that it was fine. That's only when I found that I had no more latch LED and unrecognized IR sensor, that I carefully examined the ribbon cable, just to find that there was that little cut in the circuitry. Hopefully, I had a spare one, and you can still find it for a few bucks. -
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Disconnect the eight indicated connectors from the logic board, removing tape as necessary.
From what I can remember, if you have long enough fingernails to slide on the edges of the connectors, or appropriate spudgers, removing the tiny ones is quite effortless.
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Remove the following 16 screws, moving cables as necessary:
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One 4.4 mm black Phillips screw to the right of the RAM slot.
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Nine 4.7 mm silver T6 Torx screws securing the logic board to the lower case.
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One 6.2 mm black T6 Torx screw on the right side of the left fan.
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Five 9.4 mm silver T6 Torx screws securing the left and right fans.
The photo for Step 20 seems to be missing.
On one of my MBPs, I had to struggle to remove the 4.4 mm black screw located near the RAM slot. Don't know why!
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Peel up the iSight and inverter board cables from above the left fan.
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Hold the logic board down with one hand and use your other hand to lift the left fan up from its housing. There is a piece of black tape securing the fan to the heat sink. Carefully peel this tape up from the heat sink as you lift the fan up.
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Place the fan above the Airport card. It is not necessary to entirely remove the fan from the computer.
I would recommend actually removing the fan as it is just another flip connector like the other side of the ribbon cable. This way it is less likely to damage the ribbon and leaves the fan out of the way.
Just like @nokel81, I also hugely recommend to completely remove the fan. It'll save you much trouble dealing with the ribbon cable.
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Lift the right fan up while carefully peeling up the tape which secures the fan to the heat sink.
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Remove the right fan from the computer.
Step 25: now is a good time to retrieve and put somewhere safe the right ambient light-sensor cover.
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Disconnect the right thermal sensor cable from the bottom of the logic board near the DVI port.
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Peel back the orange Kapton tape covering the left thermal sensor.
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Use a spudger to pry the left thermal sensor off the heat sink.
If you are not swapping the logic board for another one, you can skip this step leave the sensor in place.
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Lift the heat sink out of the computer.
Swapping out the heatsink on my 15" MBP seemed to go fine. The instructions were clear and easy to follow. My computer had been shutting down immediately and was unusable. I did some research and it sounded like the heatsink was the problem. After reassembling the computer, when I started it up, there was a little puff of smoke from the back left of the keyboard... and... no screen backlight came on!!!
The repair solved the problem of my computer constantly shutting down, but now I can only see my screen if I shine a bright light on it.
Does anyone know what could have happened? If the thermal compound was touching some little wire or something, could it have caused a short?
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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2 Yorum
I put everything back after replacing the thermal paste in 3 places on the heatsink, but now I have no apple logo on the
display or sound on bootup … what did I miss this time?
Finished this with the guide laptops running a lot cooler now!
Before beginning, I found some small plastic bags and labeled each of the with the location the screws would come from once removed and the appropriate step number. Once the screws were removed I placed them in the labeled bags and did not have to worry about mixing screws up. Also, provided a good way to insure that no steps were skipped in the reverse process
rpbetancourt - Yanıt
If you don't have any plastic bags, you can always print out the photos in black and white as you go, and then tape the screws on to the print outs over the circles that denote the screw positions in the photos. This method helps get every single screw back in it's exact location, even months after a tear down. ;o)
Adam - Yanıt
Thank you very much!
Evgeniy - Yanıt
When I did this, I used a empty egg carton to store my screws. I wrote the steps where I removed screens in Sharpie on the bottom of the "egg cup" and then dropped the screws in as I went. Then I just worked backwards to put it all back together.
mark93 - Yanıt
I Generally just use a piece of paper with a rough sketch of the system and locations of the screws with prestik.
Tarn Alcock - Yanıt