Use this guide to upgrade or replace the solid-state drive in a MacBook Pro 15” Mid 2012. This MacBook Pro uses a proprietary storage drive connector, and is therefore not compatible with common M.2 drives without the use of an adapter.
Before you perform this repair, if at all possible, back up your existing SSD. Then, either familiarize yourself with internet recovery or create a bootable external drive so you’ll be ready to install macOS onto your new drive and migrate your data to the new SSD.
Finally, we strongly recommend installing macOS 10.13 High Sierra (or a later macOS) before replacing the original SSD from your MacBook Pro. Most new SSDs require updated storage drivers not found in versions of macOS prior to High Sierra.
What you need
Remove the following P5 pentalobe screws securing the lower case to the MacBook Pro:
Eight 3.0 mm
Two 2.3 mm
Lifting from the edge nearest the clutch cover, lift the lower case off the MacBook Pro.
Set the lower case aside.
Does anyone noticed that the bottom cover and the bottom case is actually linked with the black plastic near the battery?! After the first time you open the cover, it will be impossible to put it back to the original place. Does the critical?! Thanks a lot for informing
I was able to simply push and click those clips back into place before I did the screwing.
Tim Peat -
I truly believe this is placebo and the 10*C difference is because in the process the dust was removed from the fan/heat sink rather then the thermal "magic" paste.
This is a "PC" habit.
On the other hand, all the cases and protections out there have a bad effect on cooling (not sleeves or pouches) because the whole aluminum body helps dissipate heat.
I've never had any problems with any mac regarding heat (they do get hot, but it is OK).
Whenever you feel heat from electronic device means the heat radiates away from it.. which means the cooling is doing a good job :).
Writing about dust and dirt, do you know any cleaning products for the interior of the mac. i mean how do you clean your laptop, pc, etc..
This is untrue. Over time thermal paste will dry up and crack and not provide good coverage between the device and the cooler. The paste massively improves the thermal transfer between the chip and the heatsink. If you do not believe in the magic paste then you should wipe it all off and apply just a little bit or none at all and then compare temperatures. You will see the paste is responsible for a big reduction in temperature.
If you are following this how-to because liquid/coffee splashed in through the back vents, WAIT UNTIL THE END to clean any liquid spills on the bottom panel. Use them as your map for cleaning and QA guide for checking until you are finished with your cleanup of logic board and other items.
Peel back the warning label covering the battery connector.
Have laptop charging issues after this. When fully charged and i plug in magsafe it starts with green, then turns red and stays red (like if it was charging). Status bar says NOT charging. If i use battery a little bit (down to 69%) magsafe does the same (green then stay red). Status bar says battery 69% NOT charging. and it seems to be true. Any suggestions?
Double check the connection from the battery to the logic board and the logic board socket itself... Might have damaged by disconnect/reconnect.
This step is necessary to prevent any discharging, arcing, friction/static charges from damaging any of the extremely delicate and intricate parts of this (or most any) electrical system. In practice, you should even be wearing an anti-static band or be working on an anti-static bench even with the battery disconnected so your body doesn't create any unintentional charges.
One of the first things you should learn in electronics repair and and electrical in general is to cut the power source whenever possible before performing any work. Some systems have schedulers/triggers set that will wake the system up (even when closed) to perform updates and other maintenance tasks as to not eat up CPU and RAM during 'peak hours'. The last thing you need is to have your $2,000 laptop turn on while pulling an SSD (which, correct me if wrong, isn't a plug-and-play based device) which could do some serious corruption and/or damage; when all you had to do was peel a sticker and plug.
Hope that helps!!
~the more you know~
I did not peel back the sticker. It is probably there to help unplug the battery. You can apply a gentle constant pull while you use spudger to lift the battery connector out of the socket as per the next step. It made this very easy.
I've found that it's actually better to NOT remove the sticker. I wish I had skipped that 'peel off the sticker part' ugh
Let me stop you guys here. You can skip steps 5-35.
That’s what I did without a problem.
Go directly to step 35 after the next step. 5-35 is only so you have more room to pry the old battery off.
If you are not keeping the old battery, then just pry it off with a flathead screwdriver.
This is not a difficult fix.
Thank you for providing the advise to skip several steps. I agree that you will have ample space to remove the old battery without removing everything else. I would like to provide a small correction in your directions. You will need to go to step 34 to remove the two screws holding the battery cable versus directly to step 35. You will not be able to completely remove the battery without this step.
I successfully followed all the instructions and all the steps in this guide. I installed the new battery successfully. However, looking back at the process now, I have no idea why I had to take out the memory, air card, speakers, fans, and motherboard to change the battery. None of that was necessary. I did it, and it worked out for me, but honestly, if you just want the battery out, do what Chris and Laurence said above me. Go straight to step 34.
Using the flat end of a spudger, gently pry the battery connector straight up out of its socket on the logic board.
Bend the battery cables back and out of the way, ensuring that the battery connector doesn't accidentally make contact with the logic board.
I ordered the whole kit, but seeing how much tedious effort it was to take out so many parts so they wouldn't be damaged by the solvent, I skipped from here to step 34 and only used the supplied cards (credit-card sized) with patience and persistence to free the battery sections from the backing. Success! Then I used a q-tip to apply the solvent to remove the remnants of the adhesive from the aluminum case. My battery was very swollen, so it was like removing little pillows. I think the swelling may have helped to give me additional access with the cards to free it. Success! My MBP is back up and running, and now the trackpad clicks again and it sits flat on a table!
So no need basically to unscrew all the mac
The best tool for battery removal for any glued in Apple batteries is a 6" PLASTIC puddy knife 1.5" or 1" in width. It is strong. It has a bit of a sharp edge to cut the glue. It is long enough to slide all the way from top to bottom on the middle cells and from the side to get the 2nd from the right and 2nd from the left out. Wear gloves doing this and eye protection. I've use the Nylon twine method also without removing the logic board, but that is a pain to get started. I just take the screws of of the speaker, lift them up, don't remove and go to work with the puddy knife.
Joel - the purpose of all of the trouble in removing the logic board is to make sure that you don’t damage anything when you start pull out the battery. After this step - it’s true, you have about 12 connectors and dozens of screws to unplug, but I didn’t have any major problems.
REASSEMBLY - I had to use alot of force to get the official IFIXIT battery connect to push into place to actually connect. I was worried that one of the wires would stress and break. It worked, but it was not super easy this part.
I also skipped down to step 50. I stuck a piece of 1/2 inch weather stripping across the middle of the top cover of the laptop to maintain a pitch on the unit so the adhesive remover stayed away from the other components. I applied the remover and used a piece of string to cut through the adhesive strips. I owed the plastic tool from the kit to position the string behind the top of each cell and cut through one ata a time. The battery came out in about 15 minutes. The directions were very informative and useful but I thought the risks associated with dismantling the laptop and reassembling it again were greater. I could not have done it without the details presented. Thank you.
Couldn't agree more: use a wire to cut the glue. No need to remove anything else (I did remove the SSD for peace of mind). I used a thin metal wire, without the help of adhesive remover, wrapping it around two sticks to hold it (as pulling with your fingers is painful!). Took longer to clean the residue than to cut the glue!
I'm not so mad with Apple's repairability considering that this method is viable.
Having broken a connector on a logic board in the past, I worried about all the steps. But I understand the disaster that can occur if cleaning fluid contacts the logic board. Weighing costs and benefits, I also did not remove the logic board. I loosened up the speakers (since only two screws could be removed) to give me space to slide the cards under the battery cells. Using the two cards, sometimes sliding one over the other, I was able to remove the battery in 15- 20 minutes. Removing the remaining adhesive was VERY tedious. Eventually I settled on CAREFULLY applying small amounts of remover with the syringe and using the spudger (both pointy and broad ends) to scrape the remainders off. I cleaned the residual with Q-tips dipped in remover (buy a big box of Q-tips), refastened the speakers, installed the new battery, closed the case and voila.
I too found the need to completely teardown the laptop onerous and risky. I’m not certified in anything hardware but I’ve been doing my own repairs for a while. I watched the video referenced above and read the comments there. With some changes, here is what I did, which worked perfectly and minimized the risk, for a whole additional $3 in parts, just myself and in under an hour:
1. Go to hardware store and get 2 4” bolts ($1 each) and a coil of 20 gauage galvanized wire.
2. Wrap one end of the wire a few times around one bolt, then tie it off with a knot. Do the same with the other bolt, leaving about 10” of wire between the two.
3. Follow steps 1-4 in this guide
4. Slip the wire under one of the outer batteries (use a card or spudger to help get the wire underneath
5. Grip both bolts with one hand and rock them back and forth, pulling the wire under the battery, using your other hand to hold the case. This should take about 2 seconds (seriously). Repeat for other outer batteries
6. Pull the plastic frames away from the left and right sides of the center batteries.
7. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for the two center batteries.
8. Jump to step 55, then reassemble.
Note: when installing the new battery, ensure the part closest to you is UNDER the two plastic tabs.
Link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fupkPz55...
Note: using the nylon thread with that much effort is crazy. Use the wire or fishing line.
removed everything and have now 88% after 2 times calibrating and smc reset
wouldn’t have liked to do everything again, but this seems like a possible solution :)
i just got my Kit and started the procedure, i decided to try if i can get the bulged batteries out with a fishing line, which worked fine. No need to use any solvent and even not too much force was needed to get the line under the batteries. I was able to remove the batteries in about 5min, used another 10min to clean the case from the residue, and put in the new battery. All togehter about 20min of work. I´m very happy with the result, Macbook stays now back on its feet, closes correctly and trackpad works as expected.
Also departed from procedure immediately after STEP # 4 as per JOEL’s recommendation …used a small chunk of fishing line and it worked sans solvent…easily ! Spudger worked quite well to initially position the string /line & the ifixit ( ‘credit’ ) cards were nice for final dislodging of each battery segment from the last bits of residual gooey adhesive , AFTER working the fishing line back & forth down the length of the battery as much as possible. With the old battery out of the way, I used a razor blade to clean out the remaining bits of adhesive gunk. ( Decided NOT to use solvent here, either.) Took me every bit of 1-hour.
One thing that helped ,too, was a cheap pair of cotton gloves coated on the palm side w/ latex. This kept my fingers comfortable from the pressure of the fishing line & allowed more of a range of force …since I wasn’t wincing from saw-cutting myself !
I skipped steps from 5 to 33 and directlychanged the battery (before disassembling all). Worked fine.
I also skipped all the additional disassembly. I used cards and wire to cut through the adhesive quite easily. I also did not apply any tape on the new battery. The Mid-2014 laptop seems slim and tight enough to keep the cells from moving and the two screws at the power connector area seem to stabilize the connection and battery as a whole. Such STRONG tape seems unwarranted for the amount of squirm room in such a tight compartment.
P.S. Remember, while you have it open, clean, clean, clean!!!
Speaking of the power connector screws, I accidentally screwed down the R speaker flat cable on reassembly, which caused the speaker to malfunction. On finding that, I re-routed slightly and the speaker worked fine, this time, but I recommend being extra careful with that cable when putting things back together. You really do have to remove most everything to replace speakers!
So habe ich das gemacht!
Thanks guys for all the tips. I followed the pragmatic way of cutting short and really taking battery out only. Thanks to the cards it worked well and none of the liquid made it to any other part of the computer. Put some efforts in to properly clean the remaining glue after battery was out - but looked good and this message comes from the old mid 2012 15” Retina modell - but with the new battery in - and all is fine. I am happy - thanks to the short cut encouragement.
Also skipped steps from 5 to 32. I used the supplied cards and a piece of string, i.e. braided nylon twine, (thickness 24). and used supplied acetone sparingly, mostly to the middle section. It took one and a half hours and another half hour or so for removing the leftover goo. It was demanding but not challenging, just take it slow and steady.
Learnt a lot from former comments. Also skipped steps from 5 to 54. Used fishing line to cut through adjective by myself easily, but needed to put on glove to protect hands. I didnt order full package, so used nail polish remover and eraser to clean the base. Looks good and all is fine! Thanks to the short cut method!
If you decide to skip to Step 34 or 52 or whatever, at least take note of Step 50. This is the only place I saw reference to the thin metal plate protecting the trackpad. I also skipped to just pulling out the batteries, but this plate came out with the them. I had to carefully pry it off the old batteries, reinstall it, and clean the adhesive residue off it.
Also, YMMV, but I did not bother with delicately removing the old batteries with fishing line, loosening with solvent, or whatever. They’re going in the trash (ahem, recycling) anyway, so I pried them out with a screwdriver, using the neighboring cell as a fulcrum. 98% of the adhesive remained with the batteries, leaving very little residue in the case.
I also forwent the many steps to protect components from the isopropyl alcohol. Blocking the back of the computer up an inch or so meant that any spill would run down and away from the logic board, which actually helped loosen the adhesive. I felt that disconnecting so many parts was a greater risk with no real benefit so long as care was employed in the use of the alcohol. Using some twine in a sawing motion behind each battery got through the adhesive without trauma. The entire repair was actually very simple and fast. The toolkit is excellent and well worth buying from iFixit. The machine is now working really well again. Worth fitting a new SSD now.
Success! I ordered the whole kit and thought I would do all these steps below. But instead I just unplugged the battery and skipped all the steps up to step 36. For getting loose the old glued in battery I used waxed dental floss, it is strong and easily available. I strung it around two wood pieces and wired it around the underside of the batteries, then slowly pulled it downwards till the end. This worked quite well and after 10 minutes all the 6 batteries were free. Now the ‘fun’ part, cleaning up the old adhesive strips. I used the little bottle of alcohol from the kit but found this not the best cleaning solution. Be warned, dont forget that in this position, directly under your downpressing fingers there is the glass trackpad and the display!! I really was scared to break them during this cleaning process. Because of this I switched to LIGHTER FLUID , which is stronger and the process quickly proceeded. Thanks ifixit for your great support.
I had to replace my replacement battery ... luckily the ifixit adhesive isnt that overpowered ... ehem ... I just pulled the old one out softly ... used the plastic card, some force ... and build the hopefully-this-time-lasting-longer-than-4-month-new-battery in ... it saved my evening.
I just finished doing my second battery replacement on one of these. If you're replacing a battery that came from iFixit you can skip straight to step 34 and use cards/spudgers/guitar picks to remove the batteries. The adhesive on the iFixit batteries isn't nearly as tenacious as the original Apple adhesive (though it's plenty to keep the battery stable) and it was easy to pop the battery segments out with a spudger and peel up most of the excess adhesive strips. What little was left came off easily by putting small amounts of the solvent on paper towel and rubbing - no need to pour any amount of solvent into the case.
Remove the single 3.1 mm T5 Torx screw securing the SSD to the logic board.
This was rather easy, however, I had problems disconnecting the battery and in other forums people were saying you don't actually need to disconnect the battery, so I ended up not disconnecting it which worked great. Be careful not to damage anything when trying to disconnect the battery!
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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Thank you for this tutorial.
But can you tell me more information for the SSD?
What's the connexion? It's a M2 SSD or a SSD Sata 3?
Thank for your help.
Hi Daniel, I have the same question. Did you get an answer yet, M.2 SSD or SSD SATA?
I have an SSD from MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2012, and now, I'm using a newer model of MacBook Pro.
I'm trying to recover my data o that SSD and have been trying to find the SSD to USB adapter/converter online but haven't found a fit.
I also posted my question here: https://discussions.apple.com/message/31...
Can you help?
Hi, I followed your guide and changed the ssd to 1Tb.
But when I turn on the laptop, i get the folder with question mark. If I hold Option key while turning on, I get internet renewal option but once trying to run it, the disk is not found. Please help me with this issue fixing. Thanks. Andrej
did you ever get the answer for this?
You have to format the drive in Disk Utility. You can do so when you boot up in recovery mode.
I have an SSD from MacBook Pro 15" Retina Display Mid 2012, and now, I'm using a newer model of MacBook Pro.
I'm trying to recover my data o that SSD and have been trying to find the SSD to USB adapter/converter online but haven't found a fit. Not even sure whether the SSD is a M.2 or SATA.
I also posted my question here: https://discussions.apple.com/message/31...
Can you help?
Can someone help find an adapter on ebay or amazon or any website?
Here is what i used in my 2012 15” macbook retina:
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a... SAMSUNG 860 EVO Series mSATA 1TB SATA III 3D NAND Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
http://a.co/0t14AOh KNACRO mSATA SSD to 2012 Apple MacBook PRO A1425 ME662 SSD Adapter card
http://a.co/7RDfC5C OWC Envoy Pro 0GB Portable Bus-Powered USB 3.1 Gen 1 Cable, Storage Solution for MacBook Pro w/ Retina Display
or some other SSD holder to do the transfer
make sure you have all correct tools listed in the article above
I used the same SSD and Knacro adapter board to upgrade the storage in my Mac. Thanks for posting these. Made my upgrade easy, and inexpensive.
i used a mSATA to SATA adapter board and plugged that into a SATA to USB3 adapter. Cloned my existing Mac HD to the new SSD with carbon copy cloner in about 30 minutes.
The SSD of my Macbook is currently divided in an OSX partition and a Bootcamp partition with Windows 10 , MS Office and other licensed software. Is it possible to restore these to a larger SSD drive?
If you buy the proper adaptor i guess so.
I’ve a MBP 15"/Core i7 2.6 GHz/16 Go (mi-2012) not retina.
Is the process the same for changing my SSD 128 Go (Crucial M4-CT128M4SSD2) ?
I would like replace this SSD with an 500 go (Crucial CT525 MX300SSD1) According to you, is a firmware update necessary ?
Hi from France
To remove the back panel there are two different pentalobe screws 2.3mm and 3mm however on the tools list there is only one screwdriver. Will I be able to remove both screws with the same screwdriver?
lantzero - Yanıt
The 2.0 and 2.3 mm measurements are screw lengths, the screw heads are the same sized P5 pentalobe heads. We include the screw lengths so you don't put the wrong screws in the wrong places and end up with screw heads poking out of your device. Hope that clears up some confusion =)
Sam Goldheart -
Yes the same screwdriver will remove both screws, the difference in screws I believe is the length and width but the head is the same.
Just be careful to store the 2 shorter screws in a seperate space then the other 3mm screws.
The first time I opened up my Macbook, I put the screws in the wrong order.
Shahzad Arif -
Woohoo, much easier than I thought... Just got confused with the bottom case screw driver but after figure out it was P5 then everything went smooth.... One thing I wanted to upgrade was the wifi to ac and got one on ebay!
didierma - Yanıt
If you have 54 Bit Driver kit, please use Star 5 driver to remove screw for rMBP 2012 Late
iyeori - Yanıt
It took about 40 minutes due to an extreme measure of caution but I did it! The only real difficulty was reattaching the screen to the base (yes you have to pry the hinges open) and re-connecting the camera wires. After a few tries the camera wires finally came together. I'm hating Apple for all it's frailty and magical screws but I love ifixit!
floyd - Yanıt
Simple guide, but it solved my problem. Was wondering why the top two screws weren't going all the way down. Hadn't realized they were 0.7mm shorter.
Emilio Mejia - Yanıt
I have BootCamp running Win7 on my MBPwRetina15" 2013'Late. I run Visual Studio to build and run my Company's Application which is very CPU & NVidia (specific) intensive. So much so that during a build & run of app I was averaging about 85~95+Celcius!!! And every so often would reach 100Celcius!!! I could not take it anymore so I decided to delve into and re-apply Thermal Paste on the CPU/GPU. I ended up going with CooLaboratory Liquid Pro instead of the traditonal AS5. The original Thermal Paste was pure garbage,,, part of the CPU seemed like it was missing TP. I was scared to do this but it turned out easier than I had imagined. I am currently building the same application and can already observe that the temps average about 75~85 and once in a while will reach 90Celcius. So I am seeing about a 10~15 degree drop in Temps and that makes me very happy!
Alvaro Suarez - Yanıt
Nice to hear that, i was looking for that kind of information. I have a MBPwRetina 15 Mid 2012 and looking to obtain the best performance!
Jose David Valle -
Woa! Thanks dude! And you follow some guides here for the thermal paste? My mac 15’’ early 2013 heats up a lot but I’m a bit worried about touching anything
Much easier than expected. Sounds like several people had trouble with the backlight. It is possible that they damaged something by not first making sure to power down the computer completely with the “Shut Down” command. This should be step 1 before removing the back cover screws. Also as noted all the back cover screws are Apple Pentelope #5 bit, but 2 of the screws are shorter than the others. This bit is is hard to find in most stores. Buy it on line along with the Tork #5 and #8. 11/21/2017
Walt Goede - Yanıt
Not sure if this has been listed.
PRO TIPS from a non-pro:
1 - Keep screws separated and labeled by step # and size.
2 - Be very careful to get screws in properly threaded, its VERY easy to strip the ccrew holes and screws. Especially the case. Not that it happened to me…
3 - It was impossible for me to get all the adhesive off the case from under battery, it left a lot on w/o issue (yet).
4 - Make sure you have Aluminium Foil before starting!
5 - Upgrade the SSD or HDD while your in there!
erin - Yanıt
Do we remove the logic board purely to get the speaker enclosures out and away from the acetone? Or does it physically block getting the batteries out? Ie. if I wanted to risk the damage to the speakers, could I jump straight to step 34?
Obviously I don’t want to melt the speakers, but I’m kinda weighing that risk against losing a screw or breaking a connector…
Michael Ferenduros - Yanıt
So I did take the risk and swapped out the battery without doing the logic-board + speaker removal.
Before applying the acetone I put tape on the exposed sides of the speaker-enclosures as best I could - I wrapped the tape, sticky side out, around a card, slid it into the gap, and pressed it onto the speakers. And when applying the acetone, I squirted it as gently as possible onto the side of the battery and let it run down the side, which seemed to help avoid getting too much on the speakers.
The speaker’s plastic turned white in the spots where the acetone touched it, but it looked like surface damage only. Otherwise it was a nice and smooth procedure.
Your milage may vary, obviously.
Michael Ferenduros -
I changed the battery pack as well without removing the logic board etc. It helped, that the batteries already were swollen, thus access to the glue stripes was easier. It works, if you give a little tension, pulling a pack upwards, and then work with a small blade or knife, and cut the glue stripes. It may take a while, but much less time than dismantling the whole macbook. If you don’t hurry, and don’t apply too much force, you will not damage anything. Beside the 10 cover screws you only have to loose 2 screws for the battery connector. After removing the old pack I used Methanol to remove the glue. I prefer this solvent to Acetone, because it’s less or not harmful to plastic (however, no warranty, just my personal experience). I was able to finish the work in 40 minutes, although it was the first time I opened my Macbook. Well, I am an engineer, that helps, but with dismantling all boards it definitely would have taken double the time. And more risks to break a plug or make a mistake while reassembling.
Heinrich Jung -
Success. I needed to replace the right speaker. I thought I was ready at step 22 (you are able to replace the left speaker at this point… but but the right) To replace the right I continued thru step 29 but didn’t completely remove the motherboard. I just lifted it enough to remove and replace the right speaker cable.
Read all of the comments and solved many problems. Thanks to I-fixit, Walter Galen and all who posted comments.
Will Brecht - 03/02/2019
Will Brecht - Yanıt
If you're taking the shortcut (nylon, wire…and no adhesive for battery removal (you'll def need to remove the adhesive once the battery pack is removed) things to note:
1 The adhesive may still be pretty strong. Mine was and I broke several wires trying to do the cheese cutter move down the back of the middle two batteries
2 if you're cheese cutting through the adhesive, when you get to the base, don't go too far. I did and severed the battery cell connector… disconcerting puff of smoke.
Ruairi Kennedy - Yanıt
If you get a puff of smoke removing a bad battery which is going to be replaced it really doesn’t matter, its being replaced.
3 the you tube video dude was lucky not to have his two Central batteries adhered . Mine were stuck fast.
4 don't forget about the two small T 5 screws to the left and right of the battery head board, just below the main battery connector.
5 the Track Pad sits behind the two central batteries. The batteries are adhered to a flat plate that protects the Track Pad which is pretty resilient. You can do the cheese wire trick without cutting through anything you shouldn't. However be careful if you're using a spudger or other tool between the two centre batteries at the top of the T. This is where the Track Pad connector (its very flat and exposed) to the motherboard.
6 seems obvious when it's written , but you will need the adhesive remover if you are interested in removing the adhesive. It's a work out.
Ruairi Kennedy - Yanıt
I just completed this successfully. The guide was great, and I recommend reading each of the steps’ comments, too. It is possible to cut out a majority of the steps outlined here if you’d rather not dismantle most of your laptop. As I’m a novice and this was the first difficult fix I’d ever tried, the idea of taking so many things apart — including removing the logic board — was a little scary. Everyone calculates risk and reward differently, but for me, the risk of removing the logic board for the reward of being able to remove the battery packs with adhesive remover was too great, so I opted to only do steps 1–4, 42–53 and removed the battery with one of the cards from iFixit’s kit. If you go this route, expect it to be a little frustrating & slow going — it took me around 20–30 minutes of slowly chipping away at the adhesive with only the card. There are other techniques out there (wire, fishing line, etc.) and I’d advise looking into them. Keep track of screws: tape, draw out diagrams, label them, etc.
Jake Thornberry - Yanıt
I only removed the 10 screws and the back panel, the 5 speaker’s screws (without removing the speakers), and the two battery screws, and managed to remove the battery package without undoing anything else. I used a member card (credit card type) to loosen the adhesives under the batteries.
To remove the rest of the glue, I soaked it with something called Label Off from Biltema (Nordic). Finally, I used methylated spirit (rødsprit) to clean it all up and let it dry for 5 minutes before assembling the new battery pack.
Andreas H. Parlow - Yanıt
I have now replaced the battery and the dc-in board, and I still can’t get the battery to charge. I also bought a new magsafe power adapter. It appears all cables are connected, and the computer runs fine on the battery (until it runs out of juice, then I will be at a complete loss). No clue what to try next. Any suggestions? Thanks!
matt rogers - Yanıt
Why do you need to remove the entire logic board??? Seems like if you detach the appropriate cables, remove the speakers, that that should be enough. Removing the entire board doesn’t seem necessary - what am I missing?
Sandwah - Yanıt
What on earth are you talking about? This has nothing to do with the logic board.
Trevor Picard -
The speaker cables are routed under the logic board, or at least the right-side one is. I found that if you can undo the fastenings on one side of the logic board you MIGHT be able to lever it up and work the speaker wire out without taking the entire thing out.
MacBook Pro 15“ 2014:
if the keyboard is connected nothing works. I disconnected the keyboard and the MacBook was starting automatically. An external usb keyboard is not working either. Is something on the logic board defective or is this failure (usb keyboard not working) because of the disconnected keyboard and the system is confused?
any idea for this?
ps: the battery is loading
Pättes - Yanıt
MacBook Pro 15” Mid 2012
I had the exact same symptom upon initial completion. The keyboard ribbon is actually 2 pieces on mine. There is a plastic cover sheet (that I tried to use as the ribbon the first time) and then there is the actual ribbon sheet. The keyboard works perfectly now that I have the actual ribbon sheet inserted into the the ZIF connector.
It took entirely too long. I was being very careful. Recovery of the keyboard took me less than an hour. I don’t want to admit how long the original work took me.
I hope you already have yours working. I was very careful due to not having an alternate device for my son to use if the work had failed. The other likely point of failure for the keyboard is damage to the ribbon as it goes under the battery pack. I caught myself almost poking too hard on that spot.
You should more clear explain that it is possible to skip the steps 5-35 in the beginning explanation text.
( I lost many time to remove parts and there is also more risk to destroy some connectors ?♂️)
Muescha - Yanıt
Like many others here, I completed the battery replacement by skipping steps 5-52 and instead removing the battery cells with the “cheese cutter” method. I made my cutter from 20# braided monofilament tied to two 4” wooden dowels (3/8” diameter). I carefully applied 97% isopropyl alcohol to the taut mono with a small artist’s brush. I took my sweet time cutting through the glue, but all in all not too difficult, just tedious. I was super careful and mindful of the fire and explosion hazard, and took necessary precautions. One thing to be careful of using the cheese cutter method is to be sure the mono is is really under the cell package and not just in front of it before sawing away. There are some tight spaces that make this tricky. Once the battery was out I used the iFixit acetone to clean up the glue leftover by carefully applying drops on the strips and letting capillary action take over. After waiting about five minutes, the glue strips could be picked up with the supplied tweezers.
Acme Nerd Games - Yanıt
Hallo Leute, hab das Akku eben erfolgreich bei meinem MacBook getauscht ohne alles vorher auszubauen. WICHTIG: kein ACETON zum Kleber lösen verwenden! Sonst gehen die Lautsprecher kaputt! Auch kein Orangenpower oder ähnliches! Man nehme sich ein dünnes hochzugfestes Nylonband (oder Zahnseide geht auch) und schneide damit die alten Klebepads sägebandmäßig los.
In der Hoffnung mich so klar wie möglich auszudrücken war das Folgende meine Vorgehensweise:
1. Deckel ab, Achtung die Schrauben mittig unterm Bildschirm sind kürzer!
2. Akkustecker trennen und vorsichtig umbiegen
3. die 2 Schrauben, die die Batterie in der Nähe des Steckers halten losschrauben
4. nun mit zugfestem Band die Akkus rausschneiden
die im Fix-Kit beigelegten Spatel können dabei unterstützen
die übrigbleibenden Klebereste können einfach mit einem der Plastikwerkzeuge abgemacht werden: erst ein bisschen mit einem Spatel vorarbeiten, sodass man es mit seinen Fingen greifen kann, dann langsam und Richtung weg vom Logikboard vorsichtig abziehen.
Jérôme Achilles - Yanıt
Was dann noch an Kleberesten übrigbleibt, kann wegen mir auch bleiben. Sonst mit 1-2 Tropfen Lösemittel auf ein Microfasertuch geduldig nach und nach wegwischen. Und Wirklich nur WENIGE TROPFEN verwenden! Sonst gehen die Lautsprecher wohlmöglich kaputt.
5. Mithilfe von Druckluft (2-3 bar! nur) nun sämtlichen Staub vorsichtig rausblasen. VORSICHT: Die Lüfter dürfen sich dabei nicht drehen! Die erzeugen sonst Spannung und grillen wohlmöglich das Logikboard!
6. Neues Akku (Folien dabei vom Akku entfernen) reinsetzen und gleich an die Schraubenlöcher ausrichten.
7. Die 2 Schrauben für die Batterie reinschrauben und mit Gefühl anziehen.
Die packs einzeln auf ihren richtigen Sitz hin prüfen
8. Wenn alles sauber ist und alles richtig sitzt, dann den Batteriestecker wieder auf das Logikboard stecken
9. Deckel drauf. Der Deckel muss von alleine, ohne Schrauben richtig in seiner Ausfräsung liegen. Steht irgendeine Ecke hoch, ist darunter was verkehrt.
Jérôme Achilles - Yanıt
10. Deckel festschrauben. ACHTUNG: 2 Schrauben sind kürzer auf der Seite des Bildschirms!
Missverständnisse kann ich nicht ausschließen. Darum folgt ihr dieser Anleitung bitte nur auf eigenes Risiko. Ich übernehme keine Haftung für Schäden! Viel Erfolg!
Jérôme Achilles - Yanıt
Hi guys, just successfully replaced the battery on my MacBook without removing everything first. IMPORTANT: do not use ACETON to loosen the glue! Otherwise, the speakers will be broken! Also no orange power or similar! Take a thin high-tensile nylon tape (or dental floss also works) and cut the old adhesive pads loose. Similarly as with a saw tape.
Hoping to express myself as clearly as possible, the following was my procedure:
1. remove the lid, beware that the screws in the center under the screen are shorter!
2. disconnect the battery connector and carefully bend it over
3. unscrew the 2 screws that hold the battery near the plug
4. now cut out the batteries with tension-proof tape
the spatulas included in the fix-kit can help you to do this
the remaining glue can be easily removed with one of the plastic tools: first work a little bit with a spatula so that you can grip it with your fingers, then slowly and carefully pull it off in a direction away from the logic board.
Jérôme Achilles - Yanıt
Whatever glue remains can stay because of me. Otherwise, patiently wipe away little by little with 1-2 drops of solvent on a microfiber cloth. And really only use FEW DROPS! Otherwise, the speakers may break.
Now carefully blow out all dust with compressed air (2-3 bar! only). CAUTION: The fans must not rotate! Otherwise, they will generate voltage and possibly fry the logic board!
Insert the new battery ( thereby remove the foils from the battery) and align it to the screw holes. 7.
Screw in the 2 screws for the battery and tighten them with feeling.
Check the packs individually for proper fit
8. if everything is clean and everything fits correctly, put the battery connector back on the logic board.
9. put the lid on. The cover must lie correctly in its groove by itself, without screws. If any corner is sticking up, there is something wrong underneath.
Jérôme Achilles - Yanıt
10. screw the cover. ATTENTION: 2 screws are shorter on the side of the screen!
I cannot exclude misunderstandings. Therefore, please follow these instructions only at your own risk. I assume no liability for damages! Good luck!
Jérôme Achilles - Yanıt
Another vote for skipping step 34 after step 4. When I tried to reinstall the new battery, I couldn't get the two step 34 screw holes lined up and still be able to connect the battery cable, so I just left them out. Also, one of the bottom cover screws went AWOL.
I think that anyone with a badly swollen battery can skip to 34 because the battery has already done a lot of the work. I doubt that I used more than a dozen drops of remover, if that. A bit of patience and careful work with dental floss did the trick. Maybe 30-40 minutes to get the old battery out and another 10 to peel off the remaining adhesive.
schendel - Yanıt
Like most have suggested here, definitely read through all of these comments! I learned valuable tips from other commenters above that made this repair easy. Also like many others here, I opted to skips the majority of steps, and instead focused on steps 1-4, 36-53. When removing the small screws from the back plate, make sure to keep them organized and away from the computer. Because they are slightly magnetic, one of the tiny top middle screws magnetized to the MagSafe charger port my my Mac and I spent 20 minutes thinking it fell on the floor.
I had a nylon thread handy to get some of the packs started. Even with applying the adhesive remover, I found the plastic card iFixit provides was not always strong enough to get the pack started. Cheese cutter method was all it needed to get started!
Make sure to elevate your Mac when applying the remover in whatever direction you want the remover to run. Make sure to test new battery before committing to the new adhesive in case it is faulty!
Patrick King - Yanıt
At step 9, when reinstalling the io board cable, make sure it is the correct way round as in the photo, it fits the wrong way round as well, which results in the MacBook not starting at all. It took me hours to find my mistake...
Pierre Arnaud - Yanıt
This is just a suggestion or two to help those that might be doing this for the first time.
1. Separate your screws by the component they came from, i.e. cover screws altogether, fan screws altogether etc. I used PostIt notes turned upside down and put the screws head down to hold them in place and then marked what they were and where they came from.
2. If you have enough work space put the component next to the screws that were removed. Then you have everything located for an easy reinstall.
Steve Rowe - Yanıt
The photographs in this guide show two slightly different MacBook Pro 15" Retina machines being disassembled, probably because the guide has multiple authors, and there is a subtle but very important difference between them. Look at the photo in Step 55. This shows the old battery being lifted out of the machine, it has six cells, and the battery connector is located in the centre of the top edge of the battery between cells 3 and 4. Now look at the photo in Step 3. This shows a battery connector which is offset by about 3cm and is above cell 4, not between cells 3 and 4. I believe the offset battery connector is from a mid 2012-early 2013 MacBook and the central battery connector is from a late 2013-mid 2014 MacBook. This is important because if you have the wrong battery, it won't work because the connector won't reach the socket. I found this out to my cost when I bought a battery which the seller told me was the right one, it turned out to be the wrong one, and then I couldn't return it.
Peter Gray - Yanıt