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Use this guide to safely remove the glued-in battery from your MacBook Pro with the help of an iFixit kit with adhesive remover. The adhesive remover is designed to weaken the glue securing the battery, allowing you to remove it with ease.

iFixit adhesive remover is flammable. Follow this procedure in a well-ventilated area. Do not smoke or work near an open flame.

To minimize risk of damage, turn on your MacBook and allow the battery to fully discharge before starting this procedure. A charged lithium-ion battery can create a dangerous and uncontrollable fire if accidentally punctured. If your battery looks puffy or swollen, take extra precautions.

Note: The solvent used to dissolve the battery adhesive can damage certain plastics. Follow all instructions and take care where you apply the adhesive remover.

  1. Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot. This command may not work on all Macs. Power on your Mac and launch Terminal. Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:
    • Before starting this procedure, you must disable your Mac's Auto Boot feature. Auto Boot powers on your Mac when you open the lid, and may be accidentally triggered during disassembly. Use this guide or follow the abbreviated instructions below to disable Auto Boot. This command may not work on all Macs.

    • Power on your Mac and launch Terminal.

    • Copy and paste the following command (or type it exactly) into Terminal:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%00

    • Press [return]. If prompted, enter your administrator password and press [return] again. Note: Your return key may also be labeled ⏎ or "enter."

    • You can now safely power down your Mac and open the bottom case, without it accidentally powering on.

    • When your repair is complete and your Mac is successfully reassembled, re-enable Auto Boot with the following command:

    • sudo nvram AutoBoot=%03

    Is this step necessary? I can’t perform this step as I am attempting to repair water damage and need to remove logic board & most likely replace the battery.

    lamajr - Yanıt

    @mac_medic You definitely don’t want the power coming on while the board is wet. In your case, I think powering on the machine to disable Auto Boot would do more damage than it prevents. I agree, skip this step and be prepared to disconnect the battery quickly if the laptop automatically powers on. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Thats right! You don't want power running while working on your logic board.

    Dan -

    This did not work when running High Sierra.

    Kyle B - Yanıt

    Tried this on a 2018 MBP 13” Touchbar (there’s no iFixit guide for this model yet). Need to replace a broken screen.

    Luckily I managed to connect to an external screen (Cmd-Down Brightness to switch displays) and enter above command. Seems to work, but there’s another problem with this model - it powers up as soon as any key is pressed……. ffs <gnashes teeth>

    Cool_Breeze - Yanıt

    I unscrew the battery first and wrap electrical tape over the logic board battery connector before attempting any repairs to the board. Haven’t had any problems yet and I’ve worked on about 10 of these models already. Also when you open the bottom case use a suction cup at the bottom and pull up then run a plastic spudger along the edges to disconnect the clips. Also only use a plastic spudger on the board. Saw a youtube video from a repair shop and he did not disconnect the power and used all metal tools during the entire process of removing the board. His last step was to disconnect the battery terminal.

    Brian - Yanıt

    Is this step necessary if my mac can turn on? Battery fully dead(

    Nursat b - Yanıt

    BEFORE YOU START: The included torx head stripped off before I was done (and you might need an additional T4) so stop now and go buy a good one. Also they fail to warn you above to get some blue threadlocker ahead of time.

    Jason Sherron - Yanıt

    This command did not work for me and I read that sometime in later 2020 Apple stopped this command from working…any ideas on a work around?

    Patrick Machacek - Yanıt

    Not able to do that with damaged screen

    richardjgreen - Yanıt

    Hi. This does not work on 2018 13” MacBook Pro with Touch Bar. I did exactly this to disable auto boot. But when I check by using nvram -p it says: auto-boot true. Am I doing something incorrectly? I did everything step by step. Copied and pasted the sudo command, pressed enter and then entered my password. I have Big Sur 11.1 installed. Is there any other way since I need to replace the screen. Thank you. Adrian

    Adrian Vizik - Yanıt

    Hi everyone. This is also a little pointless if you can’t see anything on the screen, and you don’t have a display adapter to USB C to display it. I agree with Brian about removing the back and disconnecting the battery cable before you even think about opening the lid of the MacBook. Applying the insulation tape is also a handy little tip that just makes sure there is no way to discharge from either the board or battery.

    Roberto Enrieu - Yanıt

    running `nvram -p | grep 'AutoBoot'` in terminal verifies that it was accepted

    result: `AutoBoot %00`

    Marek Polák - Yanıt

    Running Big Sur 11.6.7 on a 2019 16" MBP, it's "auto-boot". So it's: nvram -p | grep 'auto-boot' to display the current state, the default is true - and then to change it, sudo nvram auto-boot=false which turns it off.

    Ed Mechem -

    This step is completely unnecessary if you follow the guide to disconnect the battery properly. Just put some tape between the battery and logic board connection to prevent it from accidentally touching and therefore powering on the laptop.

    Grant Ormsby - Yanıt

    It took me a few tries to make this command work, as I was able to copy and paste the command into Terminal, but could not type in my laptop’s password. I finally typed my password into a text document, copied it (command C), and then pasted it into Terminal and it worked.

    tommy404 - Yanıt

    I didn’t do this. Mine never auto-booted before I replaced the battery. Now it does.

    hatuxka - Yanıt

    BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING - CHECK THE BATTERY!

    I-fixit sent me a bad battery, which I didn’t realize until it was already install. They sent me a new one, but I wasted hours uninstalling and reinstalled.

    Get a volt meter and measure the voltage on the output of the battery pack. If it reads 0 V, SEND IT BACK. It should read over 2 V.

    bcardanha - Yanıt

    When I did this from Terminal.app within Recovery Mode, the “sudo” was not recognized but I could invoke it without the sudo part. It seems to have been accepted when looking at “nvram -p”

    johann beda - Yanıt

    When in Recovery Mode, you already have superuser powers. So you don't need to prefix commands with the sudo command to invoke them with root privileges; you already have them. Do a pwd (print working directory) after opening Terminal in Recovery Mode, and you'll see that you're in the root user's directory.

    Ed Mechem -

    I received the battery kit for my 2018 MacBook Pro and as per the above comment from bcardanha - Oct 12, 2021, I checked the voltage on the pads marked + and - . It was zero volts so I panicked a bit.

    I sent a message on the iFixiT Facebook page and I got no reply. I finally found the customer service email for Ifixit Europe and sent them an email voicing my concern as I was not keen to work for couple of hours just to discover that the battery is faulty. I had an almost instant reply on the email (kudos to them) and they adviced me to go ahead and install the new battery as the voltage measured when battery is not connected is not relevant.

    I took a leap of faith and after two hours… the new battery showed 50% charge and everything seems to be working just fine. I am happy it worked.

    Mircea Comanici - Yanıt

    After removing the old battery and installing the new battery I powered up the MBP before screwing the bottom on. I discovered the my keyboard would not function. It took a few hours of investigation and frustration that I discovered the track pad power ribbon had become partially dislodged from the trackpad. I was able to see that this through the little machined slot where the battery sat. I had to remove the trackpad to reinsert the power ribbon back into the connector in the trackpad. after reassembling and reinstalling the battery etc the keyboard worked. Just food for thought if your run into the keyboard issue.

    Ed Mease - Yanıt

    This should be the default. IMO I tell you to power on - not the lid.

    G Sena - Yanıt

    • Completely power off and unplug your MacBook Pro before you begin. Close the display and flip the entire laptop upside-down.

    • Use a P5 Pentalobe driver to remove six screws securing the lower case, of the following lengths:

    • Four 4.7 mm screws

    • Two 6.6 mm screws

    • Note the orientation of the screws as you remove them—they need to be reinstalled at a slight angle.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    These screws are TINY and different lengths. I highly recommend purchasing the recommended magnetic project mat.

    Steve - Yanıt

    So this need to replace each and every screw in its exact former position explains exactly the excruciating difficulty I am having in getting the set of four shorter screws screws back in after everything else having gone successfully. Wanna scream at the top of my lungs. Maybe this point needed to be made in all ALL CAPS and BOLD for me. So can I still just start over trying each screw in each hole or have I messed up the threads in trying to screw in screws mismatched to their holes?

    hatuxka - Yanıt

    The front screws are at a slight angle, pay attention when putting them back!

    Cristian Caprar - Yanıt

    I did not have the magnetic project mat, but instead I stuck loops of blue painter's tape on the table, wrote the step number on them in sharpie, and stuck the screws/covers for the corresponding step on them.

    dunhamsteve - Yanıt

    If the battery you are replacing is swollen and you do not know it is - swollen, Watch out![br]

    You may strip threads on some of the screws. Rotate the unscrewing as in a clockwise - counterclockwise manner if some of them start to feel tight.

    G Sena - Yanıt

  2. Press a suction handle into place near the front edge of the lower case, between the screw holes. Lift up on the suction handle just enough to open a small gap under the lower case.
    • Press a suction handle into place near the front edge of the lower case, between the screw holes.

    • Lift up on the suction handle just enough to open a small gap under the lower case.

    You can probably just skip to step 6 if battery is swollen. These steps will likely be taken care of for you.

    G Sena - Yanıt

  3. Slide the corner of an opening pick into the gap you just created underneath the lower case. Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and then halfway up the side of the MacBook Pro. This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.
    • Slide the corner of an opening pick into the gap you just created underneath the lower case.

    • Slide the opening pick around the nearest corner and then halfway up the side of the MacBook Pro.

    • This releases the first of the hidden clips securing the lower case. You should feel and hear the clip pop free.

  4. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, using your opening pick to release the second clip. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, using your opening pick to release the second clip. Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, using your opening pick to release the second clip.
    • Repeat the previous step on the opposite side, using your opening pick to release the second clip.

  5. Lift the front edge of the lower case (the side opposite the display hinge) just enough to slide your fingertips underneath and get a good grip on it.
    • Lift the front edge of the lower case (the side opposite the display hinge) just enough to slide your fingertips underneath and get a good grip on it.

    • Two additional hidden clips near the middle of the cover may pop free at this point, if they haven't already.

    • Don't lift very far and don't try to remove the lower case yet.

  6. Pull the lower case firmly towards the front of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case. Pull first at one corner, then the other. Pull to the side—not up.
    • Pull the lower case firmly towards the front of the MacBook (away from the hinge area) to separate the last of the clips securing the lower case.

    • Pull first at one corner, then the other.

    • Pull to the side—not up.

    • This may require a lot of force.

    This step drew blood. Darn you Apple!

    Kyle B - Yanıt

    I found it easier to insert a screwdriver through the hole (not too far down), and use that to pull sideways, as it was hard to get a strong grip with my fingers.

    Athanassios Diacakis - Yanıt

    If you have a black stick, or a nylon probe tool, you can insert it at the back at the point closest to the screw holes, and use that to push the lower case forward. I’ve seen this help me quite a few times, and it makes it quite easier.

    Adrian Brown - Yanıt

    I like adrianbrown's suggestion. Spot on!

    wmetzgerusa - Yanıt

    Its difficult if the side catches arent released properly, check them again if it seems too much.

    tonygreenfield - Yanıt

    I snapped one of the spring loaded logic board grounding pins. Take your time. Leverage from the back in order to push it out versus pulling on it.

    stevanuscg - Yanıt

    Take the opening pick and stick the edge down behind the hinge all the way to one side, so it is perpendicular to the case, and give it a twist. That end should pop free. Do the same on the other side and there you go.

    Indawg Wetrust - Yanıt

    Thanks Indawg Wetrust, Made it very easy!

    Louis C - Yanıt

    They, iFixit, are not kidding. Quite a bit of force needed.

    Norm Hils - Yanıt

    This step requires a lot of force to slide the back cover away. Make sure you get a good grip of the mac body and of the back panel.

    Cristian Caprar - Yanıt

  7. Remove the lower case. To reinstall the lower case:
    • Remove the lower case.

    • To reinstall the lower case:

    • Set it in place and align the sliding clips near the display hinge. Press down and slide the cover toward the hinge. It should stop sliding as the clips engage.

    • When the sliding clips are fully engaged and the lower case looks correctly aligned, press down firmly on the lower case to engage the four hidden clips. You should feel and hear them click into place.

    I am doing a battery replacement for a client on this model. The battery has swollen more than I have ever seen before on a Mac! Roughly a ½” higher, once cover removed. Cover was so tight that one screw stripped and had to drill out one screw after trying everything else! Fortunately, I’m an exmechanic/machinist and I own a full size drill press! None of the screw extraction tools sold by ifixit worked or were applicable until I finally got the cover off. Then the small screw pliers from Japan were easier to use than anything else I own. My tools are mostly for larger nuts, bolts and screw extraction. Possibly a mini hammer driver screwdriver would work if one could be made small enough for tiny screws! Ross

    Ross Elkins - Yanıt

  8. Peel up and remove the large rectangular battery board cover, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery. If the cover doesn't peel up easily, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive underneath, and try again.
    • Peel up and remove the large rectangular battery board cover, on the edge of the logic board nearest the battery.

    • If the cover doesn't peel up easily, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive underneath, and try again.

    • If the cover doesn't seat securely during reassembly, try rotating it 180 degrees. It must be oriented correctly in order for the adhesive pads underneath to contact the board screws.

    What is the though behind this step? I have replace my trackpad before, and I did not do this step. At the time, there was no guide. As a result, I’m wondering how this changes/or if it is necessary for the repair process.

    Anthony Bleyer - Yanıt

    It’s necessary in order to disconnect the battery. Always disconnect the battery before making repairs.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I found my one of my fan making some noise, when open the bottom of my Mac I see this piece floating over the fan. Trying to put it back where it goes but don’t seem to stick anymore and move around. Does this piece is really necessary or I can simply remove it or order a new one from you?

    Alexandre Bolduc - Yanıt

    It should be pretty easy to reattach. Put a dab of rubber cement or a bit of double-sided tape on top of each of the screws underneath the cover, press the cover down, and close up your MacBook. It should stay put. Don’t use superglue or anything else that will harden over the screw heads and make it impossible to fit a driver in there later.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Do you know if this piece is necessary. I lost mine.

    scoop scoop - Yanıt

    My Macbook doesn’t appear to even have this piece.

    Nate Bartlett - Yanıt

    This cover is not attached to anything critical underneath, so do not be afraid that you can break anything like pulling anything from the mainboard. Just pull it out. To reattach, I removed the old double side adhesive tape and replaced with fresh one.

    Cristian Caprar - Yanıt

  9. Peel back the tape covering the battery board data cable connector. The tape may not detach completely; just peel it back enough to access the connector.
    • Peel back the tape covering the battery board data cable connector.

    • The tape may not detach completely; just peel it back enough to access the connector.

    Wow, mine peeled up from the board. Now I have some board level soldering. Any part number on the connector for this cable on the board.

    Mark Mata - Yanıt

    I second that; does anybody know where this battery board data cable connector can be purchased?

    Tim - Yanıt

    The replacement battery did not come with the “tape” in this cable so it was very difficult to reinsert the cable into the zif socket. Now I can’t get the replacement battery to charge.

    J D - Yanıt

    I have the same issue, My battery is not charging. Did you figure out how to get your battery to charge?

    Jeremy Smith -

    In my case, the original replacement was faulty. iFixIt sent an RMA without hesitation, and I am happy to report that the new one works fine. But also recheck this step and steps 13/14.

    J D -

    Note that the tape covering that comes on the OEM battery is not included in the battery sent from iFixIt. I removed it from the old and attached it to the new, but it does not “re-stick” very well, so it’s rather difficult to re-insert. Be careful, the ribbon is fragile.

    J D - Yanıt

    I was able to reinsert the cable easily a number of times with the nice Ifixit angled tweezers as the ziff connectors tiny latch came off! I ended up using a bit of Pliobond 25, contact cement to mke sure the data cable doesn’t move. A future repair will just pull off or at most need an xacato blade knife to slit the rubbery cement. Ross

    Ross Elkins - Yanıt

    REALLY important. You need to really pull this back in snug for things to work when you reassemble.

    Michael Stelzner - Yanıt

    I didn’t seem to have any tape covering it, I just proceeded to the next step

    Nathan Skene - Yanıt

    My battery board connecter is broken. Let me know where can I get these cables.?

    Lalitha Prasad - Yanıt

    I recommend to just lift a little the right end (end of the cable side), then keep the socket in place with a spudger while removing this adhesive tape, to avoid any accident like ripping off your socket. With a little care, it is safe and easy to remove completely.

    Cristian Caprar - Yanıt

  10. Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable. Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable. Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.
    • Use a spudger to gently pry up the locking flap on the ZIF connector for the battery board data cable.

    Mein Sicherungsbügel ist abgebrochen, oder zumindest nicht mehr auf dem ZIF-Stecker. Ist dieser Sicherungsbügel sehr wichtig, oder kann ich das Kabel dennoch zurück stecken?

    Fabio Jock - Yanıt

    Hallo Fabio, wahrscheinlich wird das Kabel ohne den Bügel nicht mehr halten. Das Zurückstecken geht, aber es bleibt nur sehr fragil drin.

    Fabian Neidhardt -

    Sie sollten in der Lage sein, das Kabel wieder anzuschließen und mit einem guten Klebeband abzudichten.

    mark - Yanıt

    My zif connector was already open. It apparently never got closed during manufacture. Being so tiny this made it difficult to see why there was nothing to pry up with the spudger. Once I put my finger on top of it I realized the flap was already verticle.

    Ian Simmons - Yanıt

    lock flap broke when I was about to close it, is there any way to fix it? The computer can't find the battery

    Gabriel - Yanıt

    I had no issue here but I recommend to use a second spudger to keep the rest of the socket in place while GENTLY lifting the lock. It should lift without effort.

    Cristian Caprar - Yanıt

    When putting it back, be careful, there might be a little piece of transparent adhesive foil on top of the socket, gently lift it up on the side of the cable. The cable should slide in easily, but do not force it. About 0.5mm of the cable contacts will be VISIBLE on the left side, when the cable is fully it, do not force it more than that.

    Cristian Caprar - Yanıt

  11. Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket. Slide parallel to the logic board, in the direction of the cable.
    • Disconnect the battery board data cable by sliding it out from its socket.

    • Slide parallel to the logic board, in the direction of the cable.

    If this breaks, what’s the risk to the computer?

    Jose Lopez - Yanıt

    I tried powering mine on after my zif connector socket broke. It made bad electrical noises. I had water damage at one point and cleaned the unit very well but never replaced the battery. Through excesive, a hot and bad battery, or water damaged weakening the area mine came right off with the tape when i peeled it up. Im working on finding the part and will attempt to solder it back. Of course i still need a battery which ours was swollen. After water damage it worked great for over a year though.

    Mark Mata - Yanıt

    Mine broke and now the Macbook will not power on, this was after a battery replacement, the Macbook powered up afterwards, but after transporting it, it would not power up. I removed the back cover and noticed the battery board cover was missing and the zif gate for the battery data connector was half off.

    Charles Braxton - Yanıt

    Same here, I broke the cable which was soldered on the mainboard. I tried to hold it on place with a tape, but I couldn‘t charge my macbook though. Then I tried to solder it and I also failed. I wish I had read the comments before :/

    Sebastian Fritsch - Yanıt

    I couldn‘t find the fpc 6 pin connector with 0,5 mm grid. However I managed to connect the flex cable directly on the mother board with 0,3 mm isolation filament! It was tough but I‘m so happy that it works again :)

    Sebastian Fritsch - Yanıt

    Would you be able to give a little instruction on how you were able to make this work? I’m super curious and need a solution to the same issue.

    Tim -

    Anybody know where this connected can be purchased? Mine completely snapped to pieces the moment I touched it.

    Tim - Yanıt

    Surprised by the tolerance of this little connector to my mistake of not flipping up the not very noticeable clamping element on side opposite to where the contact tip is inserted. The contact tip pulled right out without having done that. Saw in a video I should have done that before pulling the contact tip out. Remembered when reinstalling it.

    hatuxka - Yanıt

    The cable is stuck on the board underneath with adhesive, so it is best to first work it a little from left under (as the picture is oriented) in order to break the adhesive, and then pull it sideways. At all times, I kept the socket safe with a spudger to avoid ripping it off the board. The cable will come out with a little effort. Remember, it is the socket you need to take care of, not the cable (the cable will be thrown away with the old battery).

    Cristian Caprar - Yanıt

    I had issues in reassembly - the lever for the ZIF socket was missing. I think it came off with the tape. I found the lever, but it was way too small for me to reattach (I couldn't hold it well enough with the tweezers and wasn't sure where the hinge pins went).

    The computer did not recognize the battery or recognized it with errors (if I got the cable just right) without the lever.

    My solution was to cut a tiny bit of electrical tape and put it on the back of the ribbon cable to make it thicker. This gave it enough traction to stay in the socket and pushed the ribbon onto the contacts.

    dunhamsteve - Yanıt

  12. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 3.7 mm pancake screw securing the battery power connector.

    It was actually T6 in my case

    Fedor Pudeyan - Yanıt

  13. Use a spudger to gently lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery. Lift the connector high enough to keep it separated from its socket while you work. If it accidentally makes contact, it could damage your MacBook Pro.
    • Use a spudger to gently lift the battery power connector, disconnecting the battery.

    • Lift the connector high enough to keep it separated from its socket while you work. If it accidentally makes contact, it could damage your MacBook Pro.

    I tossed a piece of tape on the connector just to be safe.

    Kyle B - Yanıt

    wondering if i didn’t heed this warning close enough. mac not powering on. only black screen with battery and lightning bolt beneath it. What happens if this connector makes contact?

    ONYCHA HAZEL - Yanıt

    im in the exact same boat right now.

    Was everything okay in your case?

    Anthony Gasbarro -

    Same here until I realized that I never reconnected the tiny power button/Touch ID connector in step 31! It’s underneath the headphone cable jack from step 30. Mine was hiding under the board and I carefully fished it out with a tweezers.

    ajm0824 -

    I have the same issue. Followed Instructions to theT. Battery is connected properly as it fully charged however, it will not power on. If i disconnect the battery and connect the power adaptor, it powers on. How did you resolve your issue?

    Ian Duff -

    Mine will power on, but will not charge.

    J D - Yanıt

    Hi, did you manage to fix this? Ive got the same issue sadly.

    Cooldude2222 -

    Same problem, any solution?

    federico.cirillo - Yanıt

    Lifting up to about 75 degrees is more that enough and safe, and I did also use some electrical tape to block the contact. When this goes back, there is no socket in place, it is just the screw that keeps it there.

    Cristian Caprar - Yanıt

  14. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws securing the trackpad cable's cover bracket. Remove the bracket.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws securing the trackpad cable's cover bracket.

    • Remove the bracket.

    T3 doesn’t seem to fit, somehow on my a1707 the driver doesn’t grip and it just slips on the screw.

    What am I doing wrong?

    I don’t have a T2 to try, what can I do?

    Luciano Colosio - Yanıt

    I managed to get a holt of a T2, but still no luck: there are a bunch of screws that seem to be T2 but everything I stick inside them just spins around and doesn’t grip :(

    Luciano Colosio - Yanıt

    T4 worked perfectly

    DonPanchito - Yanıt

    Indeed, a T4 worked for me, also.

    Roy Vanegas - Yanıt

  15. Use a spudger to disconnect the trackpad cable by prying its connector straight up from the logic board. Use a spudger to disconnect the trackpad cable by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.
    • Use a spudger to disconnect the trackpad cable by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.

    I managed to pry the metal bit with screw holes off first. Whoops.

    Nathan Skene - Yanıt

    Make sure the spudger goes under the entire plastic connector, not just the surface metal place, as you risk damaging it like the comment above.

    Cristian Caprar - Yanıt

  16. Apply mild heat to the trackpad ribbon cable to soften the adhesive securing it to the battery.
    • Apply mild heat to the trackpad ribbon cable to soften the adhesive securing it to the battery.

    • You can use an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun, but be careful not to overheat the battery. The cable should be warm, but not too hot to touch.

    I used a hairdrier. Barely needed to hold it there for 20 seconds before I could peel it off.

    Nathan Skene - Yanıt

    This cable can be carefully peeled off the battery by hand by those deft of hand. Gradually and inching along its length.

    hatuxka - Yanıt

    Just warming it gently made it easy to peel off. Work with care starting from the free end, lift a little, move your grip, etc. Do not lift it all at once, there is a risk of breaking it. It is safe to then move it at 180 degrees angle, completely on the other side.

    Cristian Caprar - Yanıt

  17. Carefully peel the trackpad cable up off the battery, and push it out of the way. Don't fold or tear the cable. If you have trouble, don't force it—apply more heat and try again. Don't fold or tear the cable. If you have trouble, don't force it—apply more heat and try again.
    • Carefully peel the trackpad cable up off the battery, and push it out of the way.

    • Don't fold or tear the cable. If you have trouble, don't force it—apply more heat and try again.

    thin ifixit pick opener sliding gently/slowly underneath ribbon cable towards the front edge of mbp did the trick for me. no need for heat.

    lamajr - Yanıt

    In my case the sticky part of the track pad ribbon remained on the battery. So after replacement the trackpad ribbon does not have a sticker to stay on the battery.

    Neil Robinson - Yanıt

    Did it work all right without the adhesive there?

    That happened to me too! I thought that was what was supposed to happen, until I read your comment. I managed to peel it off the battery, but before I could catch it it rolled up into a tight ball. I got about half of it unrolled and onto the ribbon.

    rileybk -

  18. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 13 screws securing the trackpad assembly: Nine 5.8 mm screws
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the 13 screws securing the trackpad assembly:

    • Nine 5.8 mm screws

    • Four 4.9 mm screws

    • These screws look very similar, so don't mix them up.

    • These screws can loosen over time due to the clicking action on the Force Touch trackpad. Adding a little blue threadlocker as you install them can help keep them secure.

    • Install the screws loosely and check the trackpad alignment before tightening them down.

    Using a piece of cellophane tape can help hold the trackpad in place with with proper clearance all around.

    Russell Johnson - Yanıt

  19. Swing the display open slightly, but keep the MacBook upside-down. The trackpad assembly should separate and lay flat on the display. Gently feed the trackpad's ribbon cable through its slot in the chassis. Carefully note the correct slot for the trackpad cable during reassembly—it goes through the narrow slot alongside the battery, not the bigger slot near the MacBook Pro's front edge.
    • Swing the display open slightly, but keep the MacBook upside-down. The trackpad assembly should separate and lay flat on the display.

    • Gently feed the trackpad's ribbon cable through its slot in the chassis.

    • Carefully note the correct slot for the trackpad cable during reassembly—it goes through the narrow slot alongside the battery, not the bigger slot near the MacBook Pro's front edge.

    WARNING - READ THE NEXT STEP NOW OR YOU WILL LOSE THE WASHERS. Please update this with BIG RED LETTERS in the step to indicate what is about to happen, or you’ll skip forward and the washers will fly everywhere. I’m really upset right now.

    Jason Sherron - Yanıt

    I would add step 21 to step 20. The warning about potentially losing the washers should be part of this step, not a separate one.

    fippolito - Yanıt

    this step is BS, I didn’t remove the touch bar, you just need to remove enough screws on the upper board to be able to pull the battery plastic frame and put it gain…

    what a loss of time!

    a m - Yanıt

  20. As you remove the trackpad assembly, be very careful not to lose the nine small metal washers resting on the screw posts. (They will fly off and get lost with very little provocation.) Remove the trackpad assembly. Remove the trackpad assembly.
    • As you remove the trackpad assembly, be very careful not to lose the nine small metal washers resting on the screw posts. (They will fly off and get lost with very little provocation.)

    • Remove the trackpad assembly.

    They are not kidding about the jumping washers.

    Kent Folsom - Yanıt

    Pro Tip: put your magnetic mat under the trackpad as you slide it out to catch the tiny washers. Alternatively, a magnetic tool bowl, or a terry cloth towel so the lighter guys can’t get far if they fall.

    Kent Folsom - Yanıt

    Can I change the battery with out removing the trackpad and logic board?

    Mateo Munoz - Yanıt

    yes

    I did it, you just have you remove enough screws on the board to bend it upwards in order to pull the battery frame that’s it…

    my mac is working fine

    a m -

    yep lost a washer in the process

    Jason Sherron - Yanıt

    My trackpad underside was dusty. Without thinking, I tried to blow off some of the dust. One washer and one double washer were finally found thanks to a bright flashlight and the contrasting color of the wood floor.

    hatuxka - Yanıt

    One of the washer remained stuck on the body, luckily I observed it on the working table when I cleaned the dust from the trackpad casing area. Be VERY careful to not loose these tiny metal pieces!

    Cristian Caprar - Yanıt

    Without the washers the clicking and moving mouse around doenst work well. very important

    Herbie Computer Service - Yanıt

    Ok, I have all but 1 round washer. I found the rest. Not knowing a source (not even in my extensive parts collection) I will reassemble with the middle one without a washer. If anyone knows of a parts source (other than buying a trackpad assembly) please post here, Thanks.

    Carl Schultz - Yanıt

    When you put the trackpad to the side, write a note and put it on top so you don’t forget about the washers when you come to reassemble it.

    Robert Such - Yanıt

    Followed the advice on disassembly but did not on re-assembly. Lost one of the larger ones.[br]

    Recommend changing text to RED (They will fly off and get lost with very little provocation.) [br]

    *also agree with Robert Such but I was in a bit of a hurry to finish. Take your time.

    G Sena - Yanıt

  21. Using a T3 Torx driver, remove the two 1.9 mm screws securing the keyboard connector cover bracket. Remove the bracket.
    • Using a T3 Torx driver, remove the two 1.9 mm screws securing the keyboard connector cover bracket.

    • Remove the bracket.

    I’m just curious - why did the entire logic board have to come out in order the replace the battery? It seems like after the trackpad you could skip to battery removal. Is it to protect the board? Thanks!

    Todd Wood - Yanıt

    I am also wondering if it is necessary to remove the logic board. I’m just looking to remove a leaking battery from my macbook pro and safely discard of it while I get a replacement as it is releasing some chemical smell which I assume must NOT be good for one’s health.

    Jean Lescure - Yanıt

    Sehr geehrtes IFIXIT Team, bitte um Info warum für den Ausbau des Akkus auch das Bord ausgebaut werden muss? Danke für Ihre Antwort!

    Josef Lix - Yanıt

    As far as I can tell there is a part of the battery that is below the logic board. It’s the thin black stripes next to the battery pcb on either side. You can see it after the logic board is removed on step 50.

    Bhav - Yanıt

    Absolutely correct. No way to skip the steps.

    Cristian Caprar -

    Actually, a T4 Torx driver works perfectly.

    DonPanchito - Yanıt

    T3 stripped mine, should have used T4. Screw Extracting Pliers to the rescue.

    Peter Eltgroth - Yanıt

    Hands up everyone that’s never buying an apple product again?

    Nathan Skene - Yanıt

    I can confirm that the logic board removal is mandatory, because two battery connection cords are under the logic board and cannot be removed otherwise. Even if that would be possible by cutting them, it is not possible to install the new battery anyway.

    Cristian Caprar - Yanıt

  22. Use your spudger to disconnect the keyboard by prying its connector straight up from the logic board. Use your spudger to disconnect the keyboard by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.
    • Use your spudger to disconnect the keyboard by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.

    Again, make sure you pry from underneath, not only the metal plate. Goes off easily and then it also gets back easily when putting it back.

    Cristian Caprar - Yanıt

  23. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the cover on the display board flex cable. Remove the display board flex cable cover.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 3.5 mm screws securing the cover on the display board flex cable.

    • Remove the display board flex cable cover.

  24. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.7 mm screws securing the bracket for the display board cable connector. Remove the bracket from the display board cable connector.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.7 mm screws securing the bracket for the display board cable connector.

    • Remove the bracket from the display board cable connector.

    This appears to be a T4 not a T3

    Rich Murfitt - Yanıt

    They are definitely T3 ;) But not all driver kits are created equal. If your T4 works better for you, go with that.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I concur the the T3 didn’t work, T4 worked great.

    David Balogh - Yanıt

    't4'나사에 전해 맞습니다.

    jinwoo KIM - Yanıt

    The bracket of the display board connector in my case is glued. So wasnt able to remove it.

    Neil Robinson - Yanıt

  25. Pry straight up with your spudger to disconnect the display board flex cable. Pry straight up with your spudger to disconnect the display board flex cable.
    • Pry straight up with your spudger to disconnect the display board flex cable.

    When putting it back, I did not notice any “click”, but it was definitely secured in place. Just do not overpress it expecting the “click”. It fits back easily.

    Cristian Caprar - Yanıt

  26. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.0 mm screws securing each hinge cover (four screws total). Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.0 mm screws securing each hinge cover (four screws total).
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.0 mm screws securing each hinge cover (four screws total).

  27. Remove both hinge covers. Remove both hinge covers. Remove both hinge covers.
    • Remove both hinge covers.

  28. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.4 mm screws securing the cover bracket for the Touch ID and headphone jack cable connectors. Remove the bracket. Remove the bracket.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 2.4 mm screws securing the cover bracket for the Touch ID and headphone jack cable connectors.

    • Remove the bracket.

    Again, a T4 worked here, not T3.

    David Balogh - Yanıt

    't4'나사에 전해 맞습니다.

    jinwoo KIM - Yanıt

    it’s a T4, not T3. Correct this mistake.

    erwancompes - Yanıt

    T3 worked for me. MBP 2016.

    Gustavo Guida - Yanıt

    I only had the bottom screw of this pair to remove. The other is missing,

    Jonathan B - Yanıt

    The top screw of the cover bracket screws into a larger bottom screw. You need to keep that bottom one separate from the others as it is the only one that has a hole for the top screw.

    Bob Donovan - Yanıt

  29. Disconnect the headphone jack cable by prying its connector straight up from the logic board. Disconnect the headphone jack cable by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.
    • Disconnect the headphone jack cable by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.

    Be very careful with this connector, pry from the bottom of the body, not from the side of the fan, as there is the next connector under it. Just be gentle and patient. Lifting it up to about 100 degrees is safe.

    Cristian Caprar - Yanıt

  30. Disconnect the power button and Touch ID sensor by prying its connector straight up from the logic board. Disconnect the power button and Touch ID sensor by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.
    • Disconnect the power button and Touch ID sensor by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.

    Pry this from the fan side (right side of the body) and be VERY careful, the cable is extremely thin. Lift it up gently under the previous cable. When putting it back, just work gently, it will snap easily into place if positioned correctly. Do not force it back.

    Cristian Caprar - Yanıt

  31. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the 1.3 mm screw securing the cover bracket for the Touch Bar digitizer connector.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the 1.3 mm screw securing the cover bracket for the Touch Bar digitizer connector.

    Screw was stipped. I had to cut a flathead slot in the head with a Dremel cutting disk. It then came out OK.

    Nick Rhind - Yanıt

  32. Using your tweezers, slide the bracket toward the side edge of the MacBook Pro until it clears the slotted retaining tab on the logic board. Remove the bracket. Remove the bracket.
    • Using your tweezers, slide the bracket toward the side edge of the MacBook Pro until it clears the slotted retaining tab on the logic board.

    • Remove the bracket.

    When replacing the bracket make sure to loop it through the metal flange so it stays secure.

    Daniel Moravec - Yanıt

    Lift it gently on the left, 10 degrees, then slide it to the right so that it is freed from the metal strip holding it from under the logic board. It will be obvious how to put it back once you have it out, it has a small cut on the right that has to go first in the metal strip from under the board, then let the left side down.

    Cristian Caprar - Yanıt

  33. Disconnect the Touch Bar digitizer cable by prying it straight up from the logic board. Disconnect the Touch Bar digitizer cable by prying it straight up from the logic board.
    • Disconnect the Touch Bar digitizer cable by prying it straight up from the logic board.

  34. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws securing the bracket for the Touch Bar display cable connector. Remove the bracket.
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the two 1.9 mm screws securing the bracket for the Touch Bar display cable connector.

    • Remove the bracket.

    It’s T4, not T3.

    erwancompes - Yanıt

    Completely stripped the screws on this one - T3 seemed too small, but T4 was too big.. Any way to get replacement screws for this step?

    Benjamin Schemmel - Yanıt

    T4 worked better for me than the T3. I would suggest trying both lightly as the T3 might strip the screw for you. be careful here… T3 almost stripped the screw.

    Hung Nguyen - Yanıt

    T3 from the kit I bought here works fine for all the steps where they call for T3. So far!

    rileybk - Yanıt

    T3 from the ifixit kit works fine for me

    Nathan Skene - Yanıt

  35. Disconnect the Touch Bar display cable by prying its connector straight up from the logic board. Disconnect the Touch Bar display cable by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.
    • Disconnect the Touch Bar display cable by prying its connector straight up from the logic board.

    100 degrees lift is safe

    Cristian Caprar - Yanıt

  36. Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 1.3 mm screws securing the Thunderbolt flex cable covers: Two screws on the left
    • Use a T3 Torx driver to remove the four 1.3 mm screws securing the Thunderbolt flex cable covers:

    • Two screws on the left

    • Two more on the right

    Amazingly, the top right screw here was not a T3 at all but a T4.

    tomputnam7 - Yanıt

    Top screw head seems to be stripped. Tried various other sizes to no avail.

    Les Hartzman - Yanıt

    Top screw stripped for me. Stuck here. Can’t progress.

    Jason Sherron - Yanıt

    Noticed the screws of left bracket of the thunderbolt connector didnt tighten into place (after it goes in and tightens it freely rotates). The right one did. Although both are scecured and working.

    Neil Robinson - Yanıt

    When reassembling you need to push down snug to make sure the thunderbolt ports work.

    Michael Stelzner - Yanıt

    I stripped the same screw here too, but I was able to very gently fold the connector up (being extremely careful to not damage the connector or the board

    Kris - Yanıt

  37. Disconnect the left-side Thunderbolt flex cable by prying it straight up from the logic board. Pry from the inside edge, nearest the fan. Gently push the flex cable connector off to the side so it doesn't interfere with logic board removal.
    • Disconnect the left-side Thunderbolt flex cable by prying it straight up from the logic board.

    • Pry from the inside edge, nearest the fan.

    • Gently push the flex cable connector off to the side so it doesn't interfere with logic board removal.

    Pry on the middle of the connector, not the sides, as it is pretty long. Be careful to position it correctly when putting it back and do not force it back.

    Cristian Caprar - Yanıt

  38. Repeat to disconnect the Thunderbolt flex cable connector on the opposite side. Carefully push the flex cable connector aside so there's clearance for the logic board to come out without snagging. Carefully push the flex cable connector aside so there's clearance for the logic board to come out without snagging.
    • Repeat to disconnect the Thunderbolt flex cable connector on the opposite side.

    • Carefully push the flex cable connector aside so there's clearance for the logic board to come out without snagging.

    One speaker had some adhesive. Careful prying!

    Dylan James - Yanıt

  39. Disconnect the two speaker connectors by sliding the flat end of your spudger underneath each cable near its connector. Gently twist or pry up to disconnect both speakers. Gently twist or pry up to disconnect both speakers.
    • Disconnect the two speaker connectors by sliding the flat end of your spudger underneath each cable near its connector.

    • Gently twist or pry up to disconnect both speakers.

    BE VERY CAREFULL WITH THE SMALLER SPEAKER CONNECTOR!

    The instructions say “TWIST”… DO NOT &&^&^$^ TWIST IT!!!

    I broke the connector off the PCB.. now the left speaker is gone forever!

    robert - Yanıt

    DO NOT TWIST

    The connectors are very delicate, you must use the spudger as a lever to lift the cable.

    May be the worst part of the whole procedure

    Paolo Zangheri - Yanıt

    Both of the connector cables were secured with adhesive for me. Had to take my time and work gently to loosen.

    Alfred Haas - Yanıt

    Which ended up screwing me when reinstalling. The adhesive made it really tough to slide connector in. I ended up breaking the socket connection to board. No more left speaker!!! Argh!

    Alfred Haas -

    I broke off the left speaker connector. I wonder if I can solder it back on. Anyone know??

    Michael Stelzner - Yanıt

    When putting these back, these seem to just be pushed down from above, rather than slotting in from the back

    Nathan Skene - Yanıt

    Add me to the Broken Connector club ?. No right speaker for me. Have to think how I can soldier some pins on to fix the connector, or just leave it alone so I don’t make it worse. I should have read thru the instructions and all the comments. Oh well. Shoulda wouldas

    Robert Lee - Yanıt

    By far the most delicate step. I suggest SLOWLY peeling away the adhesive until gone, then CAREFULLY pull the cable away from the connector.

    The connector is NOT secured well, and you WILL break it off if you don’t proceed with extreme patience in this step. The cable pulls toward the sky. I held the connector down while I gently lifted the cable.

    Daniel Moravec - Yanıt

    Very easy to snap back into place if you didn’t muck up the connector while removing it. Just finger press directly from the top and they snap right into place.

    Daniel Moravec - Yanıt

    I used tweezers to carefully hold the sides of the connector as I slowly worked the cable out. Work under the adhesive by rocking the spudger forward and backward (not twisting). As you work toward the connector, gently pull the spudger out every so often and slide back under the cable till you eventually reach the connector. If you do it this way, have steady hands and patience! A magnifying glass helps too.

    Chris Hiepler - Yanıt

    I heated a little bit the area and then used a spludger to keep the entire socket + connector in place, then SLOWLY and GENTLY introduced a spludger from the top under the cable to break the adhesive. Once the cable was free from the adhesive (3-5 degrees lift, not more!), then I used a spludger to keep the socket in place (it is a U shape with the bottom near the battery cell, I introduced another spludger under the cable from the opposite direction (from UP of the body if the battery is DOWN) and then pried UP the connector. It does not slide, it just pops out of the socket. Putting it back is very easy, just press it gently down and it will get in the socket with a small click sound.

    Same on the other connector.

    DO NOT rush the part where the cable is freed from the adhesive, that makes the operation much safer and simpler!

    Cristian Caprar - Yanıt

    You update your guide:

    Use the hairdryer to loosen the adhesive for both of the speaker connections, as this will prevent undue stress of the connector and prevent it from snapping the cable or breaking the connector.

    wayne - Yanıt

    I used Dental floss threaded under and around the speaker cable to cut through the adhesive (really easy) and then one spudger on the circuit board and another to lift the connector out of the socket. Took me a while to workout what to do and the comments above really helped.

    Robert Brace - Yanıt

    哈哈哈哈,我直接把整个底座给撬下来了,这些两个扬声器彻底报废,哈哈哈哈

    DpX - Yanıt

  40. Peel up any tape covering the microphone cable connector socket. Peel up any tape covering the microphone cable connector socket.
    • Peel up any tape covering the microphone cable connector socket.

    Again I kept the entire socket in place while peeling up.

    Cristian Caprar - Yanıt

  41. Open the locking flap on the microphone cable's ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board. Open the locking flap on the microphone cable's ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board. Open the locking flap on the microphone cable's ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.
    • Open the locking flap on the microphone cable's ZIF connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

  42. Disconnect the microphone by pulling its cable toward the fan until it releases from its socket. If possible, pull on the tape attached to the cable, rather than the cable itself, to reduce the risk of damage.
    • Disconnect the microphone by pulling its cable toward the fan until it releases from its socket.

    • If possible, pull on the tape attached to the cable, rather than the cable itself, to reduce the risk of damage.

    Be VERY careful fishing that circuit/cable back into the socket. I was using regular tweezers that have a sharp edge. It scratched the circuit under the black plastic sleeve (which is thin). That cable kills your internal mic (which Ifixit does sell a replacement for).

    Jerod Waggoner - Yanıt

  43. Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the single 2.9 mm screw securing the antenna cable bundle.
    • Use a T5 Torx driver to remove the single 2.9 mm screw securing the antenna cable bundle.

    might be easier to do 45 first if the cables are getting too much in the way of the screw

    Kris - Yanıt

  44. Disconnect all three antenna cables by prying each one straight up from its socket. Slide your tweezers or the flat end of your spudger underneath each cable until it's near the socket, and then gently twist or pry up to disconnect it. To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down so it snaps into place.
    • Disconnect all three antenna cables by prying each one straight up from its socket.

    • Slide your tweezers or the flat end of your spudger underneath each cable until it's near the socket, and then gently twist or pry up to disconnect it.

    • To reconnect each cable, align the connector directly over its socket, and then press down so it snaps into place.

    That is the hardest part. Can’t get one of the three plugs back into position.

    Stefan Scholtz - Yanıt

    Stefan is right. Mine proved impossible and I think I smashed (yes, smashed) the “sockets” they are supposed to “snap” back into (they didn’t for me). For now, they are taped down (and wifi works well), but looking into soldering these if it won’t ruin the connection.

    Jerod Waggoner - Yanıt

    Use microscope and fine tweezers.

    Jo Luyckx - Yanıt

    Do not force them. they snap on with little effort when they are aligned just right. Be patient.

    J D - Yanıt

    Takes quite a bit of realigntment repositioning to place these back.

    Neil Robinson - Yanıt

    These are VERY tricky to reconnect. ADVICE: Push down on these at and angle and then snap them in and slowly rotate them to get them to stick. It took me FOREVER to figure this out.

    Michael Stelzner - Yanıt

    I had no problem getting these on. The trick is to come from just above the connector and pull back on the cable a little bit at the same time. A fully stretched cable will overshoot the connector so that’s why I pulled it back. I used the black spudger to snap it in place. Everything seems fine. There definitely is a slight snap.

    Daniel Moravec - Yanıt

    I always worked from the cable towards the connector to pry it up, and then when putting it back, it can seem tricky, but I used to push the connector back a little (towards the cable side) before trying to gently press it down. This seems to align it better to the socket. DO NOT force it, but it needs a little force to hear the “click” if it connects properly.

    Correct positioning before pressing down is the key here and it can get very frustrating, so be patient. A microscope /optical zoom would help.

    Also, I advise to start with the longest cable, the one you disconnect first, as it is easier to maneuvre, to get a feeling of how the connector is positioned correctly. The move to the shorter cables.

    Cristian Caprar - Yanıt

  45. Remove the ten screws securing the logic board assembly: Two 2.8 mm T3 Torx screws
    • Remove the ten screws securing the logic board assembly:

    • Two 2.8 mm T3 Torx screws

    • Five 2.9 mm T5 Torx screws

    • One 3.7 mm T5 Torx screw

    • One 3.9 mm T8 Torx screw

    • One 3.8 mm T8 Torx screw

    • During reassembly, install these screws only loosely. Adjust the board position if necessary until all the connectors line up, and then tighten the screws.

    I needed a T9 for the green 3.9 mm “T8” Torx screw

    Nicholas Waller - Yanıt

    My 3.9mm upper left screw (green) is T8 Torx, while the upper right 3.8mm (blue) screw is a T9 Torx. Note that both are not included in the kit sold by iFixit for this repair @jeffsu

    Alessandro Di Clemente - Yanıt

    EDIT: actually the T8 is included in the kit description but was not inside the one I got

    Alessandro Di Clemente -

    I had 4 bits in my driver set that I got. One was the T8 that others seemed to have been missing. Maybe they realized this and added to the new kits.

    Scott Shore - Yanıt

    No T8 in my kit. Now I have a half disassembled macbook pro I can’t finish. Sweet.

    Jamie Wilkinson - Yanıt

    On my A1707, the Green and Blue are T10 (although T8 and T9 do ‘fit’ but with slack).

    Shawn Marston - Yanıt

    Don’t confuse the 3.9 torx8 (green) with the 3.8 torx8 (blue): the green one has a tapped hole for one of the two torx3 of step 29.

    Robert Cailliau - Yanıt

    I have now discovered that an apple technician cross threaded one of the 2.9mm screws and lost another screw earlier -_-.

    Ben Gove - Yanıt

    Are these T8 screws security versions? If not, why does iFixit include a TR8 security driver in the kit?

    matt - Yanıt

  46. Peel up (but don't remove) the two rubber vibration damping strips from the adhesive holding them to the fans. If needed, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive and make the dampers easier to separate. If needed, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive and make the dampers easier to separate.
    • Peel up (but don't remove) the two rubber vibration damping strips from the adhesive holding them to the fans.

    • If needed, apply mild heat with an iOpener, hair dryer, or heat gun to soften the adhesive and make the dampers easier to separate.

    Only needs to be lifted from the fan, not from the heat pipe, and gently. If the rubber “end connector” comes out from underneath the heap pipe, do not worry, it can be easily positioned back in place when the logic board is out! Do not spend time trying to push it back now.

    Cristian Caprar - Yanıt

  47. The logic board assembly is a tight fit, but you can make it easier to remove by inserting a spudger under the left edge and levering it up slightly. There should be no resistance as you remove the logic board. Check all cables carefully and hold them out of the way if needed so they don't snag on the board.
    • The logic board assembly is a tight fit, but you can make it easier to remove by inserting a spudger under the left edge and levering it up slightly.

    • There should be no resistance as you remove the logic board. Check all cables carefully and hold them out of the way if needed so they don't snag on the board.

    • Lifting from the left side, remove the logic board.

    A headcount for all the connectors that need to be exposed when reassembling would be really useful here. I count 15. If you have less you’ve missed something.

    Dom - Yanıt

    This connection is VERY easy to forget when you reassemble. If you go to startup your computer and you see the battery icon but the computer will not start with the power button, this is the connection you missed when reassembly. Drove me nuts until I figured that one out!

    deancuebas - Yanıt

    Absolutely DO NOT lift the board by the cables as the picture might lead you to think!

    Also, when lifting up the board, if you feel any resistence, make sure that:

    - all the screws were removed!!

    - move cables and connectors gently away in the area where you are lifting, they can easily catch the logic board and it feels immediately resisting the lift

    After lifting the left side to be able to keep it between your fingers, work toward the middle and then the right, moving the connectors and cables away to free the board for lifting.

    Cristian Caprar - Yanıt

  48. When reinstalling the logic board assembly: Check the alignment of the rubber vibration dampers, and adjust them as needed. Feed the antenna cable bundle through the gap between the logic board and heat sink, and make sure it lines up correctly as you lower the board into place.
    • When reinstalling the logic board assembly:

    • Check the alignment of the rubber vibration dampers, and adjust them as needed.

    • Feed the antenna cable bundle through the gap between the logic board and heat sink, and make sure it lines up correctly as you lower the board into place.

    • Verify that no cables get trapped under the board as you install it. Check each marked location carefully.

    Start from the right, position it down in place and make sure the cables are not under the board, then get the antenna cables from beneath with tweezers, then work to the left, paying attention to get the cables away so the board can go down in place.

    Cristian Caprar - Yanıt

  49. Remove the two screws securing the battery board: 2016-2017 models: Use a T5 Torx driver to remove both 3.5 mm screws.
    • Remove the two screws securing the battery board:

    • 2016-2017 models: Use a T5 Torx driver to remove both 3.5 mm screws.

    • 2018-2019 models: Use a P2 Pentalobe driver to remove both 3.2 mm screws.

    On my mid 2018 15.3” i9 MBP the battery board screws were PL1

    Brian Eustis - Yanıt

    On my mid 2018 15.3 i9 MBP the keyboard cable is farther to the left (as shown at Step 23)! When reinstalling, make sure it is under the battery cable and its connector sticking up between the battery cable and the aluminum battery frame.

    Wolf Naegeli - Yanıt

    So if I’ve understood correctly, almost all the above could have been skipped if apple just made these two screws accessible? Wow, just wow

    Nathan Skene - Yanıt

    The screws are accessible, but the ribbon is under the board...

    Chi Wang -

    P2 bit end broke unscrewing the second of these screws… Now I have a piece of the bit stuck in the screw head and a MacBook completely disassembled…

    one.dakine.howlie - Yanıt

    I bought the battery + "kit" pack here and it doesn't include p2 screws. wow.... it seems like you own people don't even know what tools is needed for this? wow... just wow...

    CHIACHE LEE - Yanıt

  50. The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can damage the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display, as well as the plastic keyboard keys. To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work. Additionally, use painter's tape to seal off the area under the trackpad as best you can. Optionally, you may also layer an absorbent towel directly underneath the trackpad area to soak up any excess adhesive remover.
    • The liquid adhesive remover provided in your kit can damage the antireflective coating on your MacBook Pro's display, as well as the plastic keyboard keys.

    • To protect your display, place a sheet of aluminum foil between the display and keyboard and leave it there while you work.

    • Additionally, use painter's tape to seal off the area under the trackpad as best you can. Optionally, you may also layer an absorbent towel directly underneath the trackpad area to soak up any excess adhesive remover.

    I didn’t have any solution and was hesitant to simply use an Isopropyl Alcohol solution of any concentration let along subject my electronics to liquid and aluminum foil, so I simply took a card (something between a metrocard and credit card… i used a rewards card) and brute forced the adhesive while dry (making sure to direct the bulk of the force laterally and not down into the screen below and mostly wiggle back and forth instead of straight on). About 10 minutes later with a sore hand it worked just fine and avoided steps 52-62. (You may want to try the string method detailed in step 62 if stubborn and after started with card.

    ajm0824 - Yanıt

    The alu foil and the paint tape make it much safer, use them!

    Cristian Caprar - Yanıt

  51. To control the flow of adhesive remover, raise the back edge (hinge side) of your MacBook Pro a few inches using a book or foam block. To control the flow of adhesive remover, raise the back edge (hinge side) of your MacBook Pro a few inches using a book or foam block.
    • To control the flow of adhesive remover, raise the back edge (hinge side) of your MacBook Pro a few inches using a book or foam block.

  52. Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself. iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.
    • Now that your MacBook Pro is fully prepped, it's time to prep yourself.

    • iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.

    • Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)

    • Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

    • Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about possible skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

  53. Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover. Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip. This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.
    • Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.

    • Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip.

    • This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.

    • Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.

    • Cutting close to the narrow tip will give you better control so you can apply the adhesive remover in small amounts.

    • Twist and close the bottle cap securely before you proceed further.

    Eignet sch auch Isopropyl-Alkohol 99,9%?

    Felix - Yanıt

  54. Apply a few drops of adhesive remover underneath the two battery cells on the right, starting along the edge nearest the fan. You don't need to use very much. The small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all the battery cells.
    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover underneath the two battery cells on the right, starting along the edge nearest the fan.

    • You don't need to use very much. The small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all the battery cells.

    The bottle may (will!) squirt liquid. I used a bit of absorbant paper around the tip while turning the bottle upside down and putting the tip where it needs to go. Be especially careful not to drip liquid onto the speakers.

    For this type of work I always have a roll of thick toilet paper nearby: its leaves are smaller than those of kitchen paper.

    Robert Cailliau - Yanıt

  55. Add a few more drops of adhesive remover in between the two battery cells on the right, so that it flows down underneath the lower battery cell. Wait about two minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate and weaken the battery adhesive before you proceed to the next step.
    • Add a few more drops of adhesive remover in between the two battery cells on the right, so that it flows down underneath the lower battery cell.

    • Wait about two minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate and weaken the battery adhesive before you proceed to the next step.

  56. After a couple minutes, insert one corner of a plastic card underneath the battery, starting from the lower edge of the bottom, right-most cell. This shouldn't require much force. If you have trouble, apply more adhesive remover and give it 2-3 additional minutes to penetrate. Try not to deform the battery. A damaged or punctured battery can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.
    • After a couple minutes, insert one corner of a plastic card underneath the battery, starting from the lower edge of the bottom, right-most cell.

    • This shouldn't require much force. If you have trouble, apply more adhesive remover and give it 2-3 additional minutes to penetrate.

    • Try not to deform the battery. A damaged or punctured battery can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.

    • Wiggle the card from side to side and slide it all the way underneath both battery cells.

    • Lift the cells to fully separate the adhesive, but don't try to remove them from your MacBook yet.

    • Leave the plastic card temporarily underneath the cells to prevent the adhesive from re-bonding as you proceed to the next step.

    I had a great deal of difficulty loosening the batteries. The solvent seemed to have little effect on the adhesive strips. Despite efforts, I deformed the batteries trying to get them free.

    Kent Folsom - Yanıt

    I also had a great deal of difficulty. I had to apply the adhesive remover 5 times before I could wiggle the card underneath the first battery sections. And it left the adhesive on the computer case; it did not remove the adhesive along with the battery sections.

    rileybk - Yanıt

    Took me three applications of adhesive remover. Think it really is about wiggling though.

    Nathan Skene - Yanıt

    It took me about 10 minutes or so to remove all battery modules. I used the adhesive remover as per the guide and also used the card with the corner doing most of the penetration instead of the blunt end. I also would gently wiggle the battery up and down while I applied more adhesive remover to allow it a better chance of getting underneath. BTW, my adhesive strips ran left to right and not back to front on the outer batteries, so I would think it would be more ideal to put the adhesive remover down the left and right sides of the outer batteries. The inner batteries (under trackpad) adhesive strips ran front to back. Keep this in mind when using the remover to loosen them up.

    Steven Wonder - Yanıt

    Once one of the packs is loose, stick a leaf of toilet paper under it, so that it cannot stick to the body again, while you are working on the other packs.

    Robert Cailliau - Yanıt

    One YouTuber uses a fairly short narrow and small thin-bladed and very essentially flexible cake spatula to push in under the battery lobes never sweeping sideways. No chemicals except for 99% propanol to remove the adhesive residue.

    hatuxka - Yanıt

    See my comment in Step 63. Might save you time and trouble. Putty knife to remove batteries, then hot dryer to get black strips off followed by de-solv-it (or the Ifix-it remover) to get off the adhesive junk.

    Carl Schultz - Yanıt

  57. Switch to the left side of the MacBook Pro, and repeat the previous step to separate two more battery cells. Leave the second plastic card in place temporarily. Leave the second plastic card in place temporarily.
    • Switch to the left side of the MacBook Pro, and repeat the previous step to separate two more battery cells.

    • Leave the second plastic card in place temporarily.

  58. Apply a few drops of adhesive remover along the top edges of the two center battery cells. There are openings in the chassis underneath these two cells, which allow the adhesive remover to leak through and may prevent it from fully penetrating. Be mindful of leaks, and apply more adhesive remover along the side edges if needed.
    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover along the top edges of the two center battery cells.

    • There are openings in the chassis underneath these two cells, which allow the adhesive remover to leak through and may prevent it from fully penetrating.

    • Be mindful of leaks, and apply more adhesive remover along the side edges if needed.

    Where are your gloves? :-)

    David Hampson - Yanıt

  59. After a couple minutes, retrieve your first plastic card and insert one corner under the top edge of one of the center battery cells. Wiggle it from side to side and slide it underneath the battery cell until all the adhesive separates. If you have trouble, don't use excessive force and don't deform the battery. Apply more adhesive remover and try again, or skip down two steps for an alternate method.
    • After a couple minutes, retrieve your first plastic card and insert one corner under the top edge of one of the center battery cells.

    • Wiggle it from side to side and slide it underneath the battery cell until all the adhesive separates.