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Use this guide to replace a broken front display glass panel. Removal of the front display glass is required to access the LCD. Although it is not technically necessary to remove the display to access the front display glass, it greatly simplifies the task. This guide is not applicable for anti-glare displays.
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Remove the following ten screws securing the lower case to the upper case:
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Seven 3 mm Phillips screws.
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Three 13.5 mm Phillips screws.
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Bu adımda kullanılan alet:P6 Pentalobe Screwdriver 2009 15" MacBook Pro Battery$5.49
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Three Pentalobe screws secure the battery to the upper case. They can be removed with this special driver.
Unfortunately, when I added a second hard drive via these instructions, all went well but Bluetooth is now MIA. Can anyone help?
I agree...
I have bought a used MacBook Pro, when problems arise, opening Corps was trying to turn the screw, but with poor quality could not turn a screwdriver, only to ruin the screw. Try to buy ifixit Screwdriver set. Good luck to all and thank you ifixit team for such assistance as ifixit.com. Thank you.
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Remove the two exposed five-point Pentalobe screws along the top edge of the battery.
I have a problem with these screw. They a completly warn and I need some new ones to fix the new Battery.
Does anyone know which thread it is and which length?
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Hold the end of the cable retainer down with one finger while you use the tip of a spudger to slightly lift the other end and rotate it away from the camera cable connector.
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Pull the camera cable away from its socket on the logic board.
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Remove the two 8 mm Phillips screws securing the Bluetooth/camera cable retainer to the upper case.
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Lift the Bluetooth board/cable retainer assembly out of the upper case.
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Grab the upper case with your right hand and rotate it slightly toward the top of the display so the upper display bracket clears the edge of the upper case.
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Rotate the display slightly away from the upper case.
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Lift the display up and away from the upper case, minding any brackets or cables that may get caught.
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Before starting, be sure to clean the display glass with lint-free cloth moistened with a mild solution; it will make the suction cup adhere better, and will make checking for dust on reassembly easier
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With the heat gun set to low, start by heating the outer black border near the upper right corner of the glass panel.
Another caution is needed - the heat gun is capable of discoloring the LCD panel (giving uneven coloration) if it overheats. This is possible on the low setting. Proceed cautiously, heating in increments until the glass releases.
I was wondering the same, is absolutely necessary to disassemble the screen to change the glass? Can I jump to step 21?
To change just the glass I used a hair dryer it gives off enough heat to do the job. Stand the computer up on its cover with the key board standing up.start at a corner heat the adhesive as you go along. I Put credit cards in as I went along so the adhesive doesn't stick again. take your time . Its easy.
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Bu adımda kullanılan alet:Heavy-Duty Suction Cups (Pair)$14.95
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With the panel sufficiently heated, fasten a heavy-duty suction cup near the upper right corner of the display glass.
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Slowly and gently pull the corner of the display glass up off the display assembly.
Sufficiently heated is a meaningless phrase here. Is it two minutes? Three? Fifteen? An hour? I have tried doing this for increasing amounts of time while avoiding doing damage to the machine, and nothing is working. Sufficient heating needs definition.
Hi Keith, the key here is that you want to warm the adhesive that's spread thoroughly behind the masked-black area of the glass around the screen to release, but not put enough heat at the rubber gasket that seals the closed top lid to the base. Too much heat, too soon, will deform the rubber. Too much and you'll never get the glass to release. The 2x that I have done this, however, even with sufficient (and significant) heat, I remember the glass taking a surprising amount of leverage to pull clear. A tactic: using your heat gun warm all the sides of the display from the front, in a circulating/racetrack fashion - about 20 rpm. After 30sec, focus on the left and top sides, seesawing from bottom left, to top left, to top right, and back. Do that at the same pace, about 5-10 passes. Then spend about 10 sec waving over the whole top left corner. That should get enough heat to enough places to help the glass separate to start placing picks, and you can continue to heat the margins as you progress.
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Gently lift the corner of the display glass enough to insert a spudger between it and the display assembly.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry up the adhesive securing the front glass to the display.
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Pry up the glass panel a few inches away from the upper right corner along the top and right edges of the display.
Be patient and work slowly or else you will crack the glass like me.
I can not get the glass to come up despite two tries and dicsoloring the LCD with too much heat. Why can't I get the glass to budge at all?
It is better , instead of using the suction cup , to use small flat end spudger . The suction cup should be used first to detach the window from the gasket , not furthermore as it may brake the glass.
I didn’t have large suction cups and the small ones didn’t work for me. Instead, I used an opening tool to pry up the glass slightly and got a guitar pick under it. Then I slowly worked the pick around the top three sides of the glass, heating sections of glue as I went.
I’ve managed to do it using hair dryer on max. First corner was though and took a lot of time to lift it. I decided to heat not only a corner but whole length and then it came off. I’ve put so much heat that was afraid I’ve damaged LCD, but it works fine. As BillyRachel1 said: patience is the way. In order to assemble it back I used old glue heated again. It’s easy but takes time.
Note: Don’t do this at home if you have cats otherwise you going to spend next hour or so trying to remove their fur from between glass and LCD. It’s because they all levitate after using hot air and just wait to stick to the screen again.
To be honest hardest thing was replacing clutch cover, took me so much time and I eventually cracked it.
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Use a heat gun to soften the adhesive under the black strip along the right side of the front glass panel.
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Attach a suction cup along the right side of the front glass panel.
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Pull up on the glass panel while you use the flat end of a spudger to separate it from the rest of the display assembly.
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Continue working along the right edge of the front display glass until it is separated from the display.
I used old credit cards
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Use your heat gun to soften the adhesive under the black strip along the top edge of the glass display panel.
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Attach a suction cup near the top edge of the glass display panel and use it to pull the glass panel up off the display.
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Work along the top edge of the glass panel, carefully using the flat end of a spudger to separate the adhesive if necessary.
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Use a heat gun to soften the adhesive under the black strip near the upper left corner of the glass display panel.
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Attach a suction cup near the upper left corner of the glass display panel.
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Pull up on the suction cup and use the flat end of a spudger to carefully pry the glass display panel out of the display assembly.
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Use a heat gun to soften the adhesive under the black strip along the left side of the front glass panel.
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Attach a suction cup along the left side of the front glass panel.
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Pull up on the glass panel while you use the flat end of a spudger to separate it from the rest of the display assembly.
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Continue working along the left edge of the front display glass until it is separated from the display.
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Now that the top, left, and right edges of the glass are free from the display, slowly lift the top edge of the glass panel and gently rotate it out of the display.
If you will be reusing the glass, with new adhesive, then you will want to remove the old adhesive. This is a bit of a pain, as alcohol doesn't work, and you need to be careful to avoid damaging the black screen border, which is black paint on the back (adhesive) side of the glass.
To remove the adhesive, note that it is actually a thin film with rubber cement on both sides. First, use a razor to carefully pull up one corner of the film and gently peel it off of the glass. If you are gentle and slow, the underlying adhesive may also come off; if not, then rubbing with your finger or a hard rubber eraser will do the trick.
If this is a rubber cement based glue, then would rubber solvent / thinner like N-Heptane help the removal process without damaging the black paint ?
Don’t remove glue. Just reuse it by heating and sticking it again.
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Insert the edge of a plastic opening tool between the display glass and the camera bracket, and run it around the camera bracket to separate it from the display glass.
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To reconnect the cable, first use the tip of a spudger to remove the piece of foam tape over the camera cable ZIF socket.
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Use the tip of a spudger to flip up the ZIF cable retainer on the camera cable socket.
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Insert the camera cable into its socket on the camera board and use the tip of a spudger to snap down the ZIF cable retainer, locking the cable in place.
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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I just removed, cleaned, and replaced the display glass on my MBP without removing the display, and it turned out to be much easier, including removing the bottom edge of the glass. Perhaps this was because the original glass adhesive was failing, with most of the top edge adhesive no longer doing its job, and in most cases removing the display will make the task easier. However, I'd suggest doing the glass only first; if you find you can't remove the bottom edge of the glass then you can remove the display and finish the job.
I second trying without removing. I have done it both ways, and if you don't have to do a near complete tear down, avoid it. More importantly they left out a couple important steps before reassembling. Clean, clean, clean the frame before laying down adhesive. Also, after install heating a bit can help to set it.
If you don't have a penta lobe driver, I recommend buying one. The flathead screwdriver method mentioned here and elsewhere didn't work for me and resulted in a stripped screw head, which was a real pain to get out. I found a penta lobe driver locally and avoided ruining more screws.