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La batterie de votre Apple Watch est déchargée ou gonflée ? Utilisez ce tutoriel pour la remplacer.

Remarque : si votre batterie est gonflée, prenez les précautions appropriées.

  1. Avant de commencer toute réparation, retirez votre montre du chargeur et éteignez-la. Si votre écran tactile est cassé et empêche d'éteindre la montre, utilisez cette méthode alternative pour éteindre votre montre.
  2. Préparez un iOpener (ou utilisez un sèche-cheveux ou un pistolet à air chaud) et chauffez la face avant de la montre jusqu'à ce qu'elle soit légèrement trop chaude au toucher.
    • Préparez un iOpener (ou utilisez un sèche-cheveux ou un pistolet à air chaud) et chauffez la face avant de la montre jusqu'à ce qu'elle soit légèrement trop chaude au toucher.

    • Laissez l'iOpener sur la montre pendant au moins une minute afin de chauffer entièrement l'écran et de ramollir l'adhésif qui le maintient au boîtier.

    • Vous aurez peut-être besoin de chauffer l'iOpener une nouvelle fois ou de le déplacer si la partie posée sur l'écran refroidit. L'écran ne se décolle pas s'il n'est pas assez chaud.

    Save yourself some time—use a hair dryer. After multiple efforts with the iOpener, I could not get the screen to pop enough to pry it up. That’s when I grabbed a hair dryer and had it off within minutes.

    Patrick - Yanıt

  3. L'espace entre le boîtier de la montre et l'écran est tellement étroit que vous aurez besoin d'une lame très fine pour pouvoir les séparer. Lisez attentivement les instructions suivantes avant de commencer. N'approchez jamais vos doigts de la lame. En cas de doute, enfilez un gant épais (p.e. un gant en cuir ou de jardinage) à votre main libre.
    • L'espace entre le boîtier de la montre et l'écran est tellement étroit que vous aurez besoin d'une lame très fine pour pouvoir les séparer. Lisez attentivement les instructions suivantes avant de commencer.

    • N'approchez jamais vos doigts de la lame. En cas de doute, enfilez un gant épais (p.e. un gant en cuir ou de jardinage) à votre main libre.

    • Faites attention de ne pas appliquer une trop forte pression. La lame risquerait de glisser et de vous couper ou d'endommager la montre.

    • Portez des lunettes de sécurité. Si la lame ou le verre se brisent, des morceaux risquent de vous atteindre.

    In my instance, the problem started with the face/screen popping off because the battery swelled. So I didn’t need to heat the face and pry it off. I did heat it a bit in order to warm the residue adhesive on the edge of the face and the case frame and found it easier to scrap it off gently with the craft blade that came with the $39.21 battery replacement kit. If this is your issue, you can skip the prying up steps.

    jeb605 - Yanıt

    Same situation as jeb605 - my watch battery swelled and popped the screen off. Fortunately the force touch sensor did not debond from the watch. Thinking about just cleaning the back side of the screen and applying new adhesive. I used an alternate kit that did not come with the force touch sensor.

    Tom Karches - Yanıt

  4. En utilisant une lame à bout arrondi, vous minimisez le risque de rayure ou de bris de verre. Ne soulevez qu'avec le bout arrondi de la lame, et non avec la pointe ou la partie plate. Introduisez la partie arrondie de la lame dans l'espace entre le verre et le boîtier sur le côté inférieur du cadran qui vous fait face. Enfoncez la lame fermement à la verticale dans l'interstice. Faites attention de garder une maîtrise totale du couteau - si vous appuyez trop fort sur la couteau une fois que l'interstice va s'ouvrir, il risque d'y glisser et de couper la batterie.
    • En utilisant une lame à bout arrondi, vous minimisez le risque de rayure ou de bris de verre. Ne soulevez qu'avec le bout arrondi de la lame, et non avec la pointe ou la partie plate.

    • Introduisez la partie arrondie de la lame dans l'espace entre le verre et le boîtier sur le côté inférieur du cadran qui vous fait face. Enfoncez la lame fermement à la verticale dans l'interstice.

    • Faites attention de garder une maîtrise totale du couteau - si vous appuyez trop fort sur la couteau une fois que l'interstice va s'ouvrir, il risque d'y glisser et de couper la batterie.

    • Avec cette pression, l'interstice va s'élargir et le verre va se soulever légèrement du boîtier.

    • Lorsque le verre s'est soulevé, faites pivoter le couteau vers le bas et continuez d'écarter le verre en le poussant vers le haut.

    It is not possible to separate the screen from the casing? I have heated this thing numerous times and the opening is way too small to get any type of blade, knife or other tool in between. Any suggestions???

    Paul - Yanıt

    Using a curved blade like the guide recommends, angle the blade straight down between the glass and the edge of the frame, mid-way along the bottom edge of the case. The metal of the case will flex *just a little bit*, allowing you to slowly rotate the blade so the cutting edge is now pointing towards the center of the watch instead of down towards your work surface. You may need to rock the blade back and forth, sort of massaging the curve into the seam between the glass and the metal before it works. And like they mention above, lots of heat. I used the heatpack they sell, put it in my toaster oven on 200. I started at 130, and went up in 20 degree increments until it worked.

    Pete -

    I've tried everything, heating it up until it's too hot to touch, pressing the knife in the gap straight down, at an angle, nothing seems to work. I've tried using all my arm strength and it still doesn't even enter the gap. Is the iFixit Jimmy not thin enough for the job?

    Kenneth - Yanıt

    It’s not. The Jimmy’s a great pry tool, but not a cutting blade and not sharp enough for this particular job. You want a curved razor like the guide suggests.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just to emphasise after quite a struggle - the blade absolutely matters!! I tried about 5 and almost gave up before the last one lifted the glass quite easily. Obviously, you want a thin blade! No, thinner than that!

    Mark Moore - Yanıt

    Plenty of heat helps this part. Also PLEASE PLEASE wear a glove. Nearly lost a finger thinking I was careful enough…

    jake - Yanıt

    Apple Watch Ceramic Series 3… Unable to crack open even with curved razor. The tolerances are extremely tight. Does anyone have any tips? Being ceramic, there is no flex at all.

    kurt - Yanıt

    I got hung up on this step for over an hour. The key for me was to keep the watch straps on! I initially took them off thinking it would be easier to work with the watch, but I guess just the little pressure I placed on the glass while trying to hold the watch and use the blade was enough to keep it in place. At first I thought I didn’t use enough heat and ended up reheating the iOpener a few times and applying it to the watch over the course of an hour. I put the top strap on, put it back flat on the table and held the watch secure with just the strap. I gave it another go with the blade and the screen instantly popped off. Also, be careful with the force you use on the blade… it seems with adequate heat, you don’t need to use that much (I ended up cutting through the Force Touch sensor and punctured the battery).

    phchang - Yanıt

    I would never use a knife like this to remove the screen. It’s way to wide to get in between the glass and body, without potentially breaking the glass. I use the Ultra Thin iFlex Opening Tool, sold by IFIXIT. Seriously. You won’t wanna use a fat blade like that after you take the iFlex for a test drive.

    Donald Fournier - Yanıt

    I used the rounded blade provided by iFixIt themselves as part of the Series 1 battery replacement kit and even that was wide enough that it scratched my case while trying to pry the screen up. Also I had to heat the iOpener like 3 or 4 times consecutively at 30s each and leave it on the screen for 5+ minutes before the screen would even budge. Heating for 30 sec and leaving on the screen for 1 minute was not even close to enough.

    Happily After Ever - Yanıt

  5. Une fois que l'interstice est assez large, insérez la pointe d'un médiator sous le verre. Faites glisser le médiator le long du côté inférieur pour décoller l'adhésif qui maintient l'écran au boîtier. Faites très attention de ne pas introduire le médiator trop profondément. 3 mm suffisent, vous risquez sinon d'endommager les câbles.
    • Une fois que l'interstice est assez large, insérez la pointe d'un médiator sous le verre.

    • Faites glisser le médiator le long du côté inférieur pour décoller l'adhésif qui maintient l'écran au boîtier.

    • Faites très attention de ne pas introduire le médiator trop profondément. 3 mm suffisent, vous risquez sinon d'endommager les câbles.

  6. Faites passer le médiator vers le bouton de la montre en l'insérant doucement pour décoller l'adhésif et continuer d'élargir l'interstice. Souvenez-vous de ne pas introduire le médiator trop profondément - le plus simple est de faire pivoter le médiator plutôt que de faire glisser la pointe. Souvenez-vous de ne pas introduire le médiator trop profondément - le plus simple est de faire pivoter le médiator plutôt que de faire glisser la pointe.
    • Faites passer le médiator vers le bouton de la montre en l'insérant doucement pour décoller l'adhésif et continuer d'élargir l'interstice.

    • Souvenez-vous de ne pas introduire le médiator trop profondément - le plus simple est de faire pivoter le médiator plutôt que de faire glisser la pointe.

  7. Continuez de la même manière jusqu'à l'angle supérieur droit de la montre et faites pivoter le médiator vers le haut de l'écran. Continuez de la même manière jusqu'à l'angle supérieur droit de la montre et faites pivoter le médiator vers le haut de l'écran. Continuez de la même manière jusqu'à l'angle supérieur droit de la montre et faites pivoter le médiator vers le haut de l'écran.
    • Continuez de la même manière jusqu'à l'angle supérieur droit de la montre et faites pivoter le médiator vers le haut de l'écran.

  8. Continuez l'opération sur le reste de l'écran en faisant pivoter le médiator vers le côté gauche de l'écran pour décoller le reste d'adhésif. Laissez le médiator entre l'écran et le boîtier pour empêcher que l'adhésif n'adhère à nouveau à l'écran. Laissez le médiator entre l'écran et le boîtier pour empêcher que l'adhésif n'adhère à nouveau à l'écran.
    • Continuez l'opération sur le reste de l'écran en faisant pivoter le médiator vers le côté gauche de l'écran pour décoller le reste d'adhésif.

    • Laissez le médiator entre l'écran et le boîtier pour empêcher que l'adhésif n'adhère à nouveau à l'écran.

  9. Tout en laissant le premier médiator en place, utilisez-en un second pour vérifier que l'adhésif est bien décollé sur tout le périmètre de l'écran. Tout en laissant le premier médiator en place, utilisez-en un second pour vérifier que l'adhésif est bien décollé sur tout le périmètre de l'écran. Tout en laissant le premier médiator en place, utilisez-en un second pour vérifier que l'adhésif est bien décollé sur tout le périmètre de l'écran.
    • Tout en laissant le premier médiator en place, utilisez-en un second pour vérifier que l'adhésif est bien décollé sur tout le périmètre de l'écran.

  10. L'écran est connecté à l'intérieur de la montre par deux câbles situés près de l'angle supérieur gauche. Faites très attention en soulevant l'écran ou vous risquez d'endommager ces câbles. Soulevez légèrement le côté droit de l'écran pour le libérer d'éventuels restes d'adhésif. Soulevez également le côté gauche de l'écran - mais n'essayez pas de retirer l'écran. Il est encore attaché par deux câbles.
    • L'écran est connecté à l'intérieur de la montre par deux câbles situés près de l'angle supérieur gauche. Faites très attention en soulevant l'écran ou vous risquez d'endommager ces câbles.

    • Soulevez légèrement le côté droit de l'écran pour le libérer d'éventuels restes d'adhésif.

    • Soulevez également le côté gauche de l'écran - mais n'essayez pas de retirer l'écran. Il est encore attaché par deux câbles.

  11. Si vous voyez la couche supérieure de votre capteur Force Touch parmi l'adhésif de l'écran, c'est que les deux couches du capteur se sont séparées et que vous aurez besoin de le remplacer ou de le réparer. Les kits de réparation d'écran et de batterie iFixit sont livrés avec un capteur Force Touch de remplacement. Si vous en avez un, ne vous inquiétez pas. Il se peut que le couche supérieure du capteur adhère au dos de l'écran. En tel cas, poussez-la pour la décoller.
    • Si vous voyez la couche supérieure de votre capteur Force Touch parmi l'adhésif de l'écran, c'est que les deux couches du capteur se sont séparées et que vous aurez besoin de le remplacer ou de le réparer.

    • Les kits de réparation d'écran et de batterie iFixit sont livrés avec un capteur Force Touch de remplacement. Si vous en avez un, ne vous inquiétez pas.

    • Il se peut que le couche supérieure du capteur adhère au dos de l'écran. En tel cas, poussez-la pour la décoller.

    Hi, thanks for the guide, nice work. I miss a picture of the natural opening of the screen, as the mentioned “Force Touch sensor slides” gets connected from the screen to the main body of the watch by a pair of very thin wires. None of these wires are seen in any of the pictures among this guide, which may lead novices to not pay enough attention to them, broke them accidentally, or not knowing what are them for. Picture on step 13 is absolutely impossible without removing the slides / thin wires of the force touch sensor in advance.

    Cheers

    Javier Enrique Díaz - Yanıt

  12. Soulevez l'écran et faites-le passer sur le côté gauche, en faisant attention aux câbles de l'écran et du digitizer. Soulevez l'écran et faites-le passer sur le côté gauche, en faisant attention aux câbles de l'écran et du digitizer. Soulevez l'écran et faites-le passer sur le côté gauche, en faisant attention aux câbles de l'écran et du digitizer.
    • Soulevez l'écran et faites-le passer sur le côté gauche, en faisant attention aux câbles de l'écran et du digitizer.

    I have 2 other small cables which are missing in your photos. Can you also explain what to do with them? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_6ngMn9...

    Pavel Guzenko - Yanıt

    Looks like you forced touch sensor is still attached to the screen and not the body. I’ve got the same issues. I’m going to try to use the plastic tool and heat to gently remove it from the screen and return it down to the body. You can see it in their fix of it… Apple Watch Force Touch Sensor Replacement . Hope this helps.

    Andrew Marjamaa - Yanıt

    Be VERY careful when moving the display and attached 2 cables. While they are reasonably protected it is easy to over stress these cables, resulting in tearing of the mini ribbon cable attached at the base. Move the screen the absolute minimum required to get to the battery.

    Joe Smith - Yanıt

  13. Placez la montre sur une surface légèrement surélevée d'au moins 1 cm de hauteur. Une petite boîte ou le coin d'un livre feront très bien l'affaire. L'écran pourra ainsi pendre à la verticale et vous accéderez plus facilement à la batterie.
    • Placez la montre sur une surface légèrement surélevée d'au moins 1 cm de hauteur. Une petite boîte ou le coin d'un livre feront très bien l'affaire. L'écran pourra ainsi pendre à la verticale et vous accéderez plus facilement à la batterie.

    • Faites attention de ne pas heurter l'écran ou de tirer sur les câbles pendant que vous travaillez.

    Your iFixit shipping box is a great size for this

    Joe Smith - Yanıt

    I would taped the watch to the elevated surface and rotated the surface around as I needed to

    Andy Campbell - Yanıt

    I could not get the face to swing out of the way as shown for fear of tearing the tab connectors. I let it “hang” as much as it would and had to work with it partly in the way through the entire process

    jeb605 - Yanıt

  14. Utilisez des ciseaux pour couper un médiator à approximativement la largeur de la batterie. Essayez de ne laisser aucun angle pointu. Insérez l'outil modifié entre le côté droit de la batterie et le boîtier. Appliquez une pression constante pour soulever lentement la batterie en faisant levier et décrochez-la ainsi progressivement de l'adhésif qui la fixe à la carte mère.
    • Utilisez des ciseaux pour couper un médiator à approximativement la largeur de la batterie. Essayez de ne laisser aucun angle pointu.

    • Insérez l'outil modifié entre le côté droit de la batterie et le boîtier.

    • Appliquez une pression constante pour soulever lentement la batterie en faisant levier et décrochez-la ainsi progressivement de l'adhésif qui la fixe à la carte mère.

    • Faites attention à ne pas déformer ou perforer la batterie.

    • Sur les modèles plus large (42mm), il est possible d'accidentellement faire levier sur la carte mère sous la batterie. Insérez le médiator modifié juste assez pour allez sous la batterie tout en évitant la carte mère.

    • Si nécessaire, vous pouvez appliquer de l'alcool isopropyle à haute concentration (90% ou plus) autour et sous la batterie pour ramollir l'adhésif.

    • N'essayez pas de retirer la batterie car elle est toujours connectée.

    I tried removing the battery with the prying tool as instructed, but I think it may have slightly damaged the outer black plastic wrapping of the battery. Does this mean the battery is now damaged and needs to be replaced? Or is that just a cover around the battery and it doesn’t matter? I just don’t want any battery chemicals leaking out. Asking before I stick the screen back on the watch, I’ve done all the rest and it seems fine otherwise.

    Danae - Yanıt

    Hi Danae, the black plastic is technically just protective, but I would highly recommend replacing the battery. It’s possible there is additional unseen damage, and that plastic helps protect against swelling and normal wear of the battery inside the device.

    Sam Goldheart -

    I had to use the pry tool instead of the pick as the pick was not moving it. Was careful not to damage the battery but found it much easier to get movement and know exactly where I was prying with the pry tool.

    Joey Totherow - Yanıt

  15. Faites pivoter la batterie dans le sens inverse des aiguilles d'une montre pour mettre à jour les connecteurs. Faites pivoter la batterie dans le sens inverse des aiguilles d'une montre pour mettre à jour les connecteurs.
    • Faites pivoter la batterie dans le sens inverse des aiguilles d'une montre pour mettre à jour les connecteurs.

  16. Maintenez la batterie vers le haut pour dégager le connecteur de la nappe de batterie. Utilisez un outil d'ouverture en plastique pour appuyer sur le fond du boîtier et détacher la nappe de la batterie du connecteur. Retirez la batterie de la montre.
    • Maintenez la batterie vers le haut pour dégager le connecteur de la nappe de batterie.

    • Utilisez un outil d'ouverture en plastique pour appuyer sur le fond du boîtier et détacher la nappe de la batterie du connecteur.

    • Retirez la batterie de la montre.

    • Si la batterie est visiblement bosselée ou déformée, elle doit être remplacée. Pour de meilleurs résultats, remplacez-la par une batterie neuve à chaque fois qu'elle est retirée.

    Why should you remove the battery if you only need to replace the screen?...?

    Douglas Richey - Yanıt

    Douglas - this iFixit is for Apple Watch Battery Replacement - looks like you need to remove the screen to replace the battery...

    jimvaughn6 - Yanıt

    You will find that it is a good precautionary measure to disconnect the battery anytime you are repairing or replacing a screen as a short can occur when reconnecting the screen rendering it useless even if you have the unit turned off.

    Bryan Solo - Yanıt

    Great repair guide! You iFixit guys are awesome. Took me about 2 hours but then I am very careful and I replaced the touch sensor at the same time since I had it open anyway. Make sure you have at least 2, and better 3 adhesive gaskets. You need 2 and, well, it’s easy to mess one up while trying to place it.

    rbolling - Yanıt

    Will removing the battery reset my icloud info? I have a guy who says he can do this, but i dont want him to run off with my watch after he replaces the battery…

    dreadmusicreview - Yanıt

    I did not disconnect the battery first. After replacing the screen, it didn’t work. I have to assume I created a short. The watch will still turn on and haptics are evident, but the display doesn’t work. Are there any further repairs to save my watch at this point?

    Scotty Beauchamp - Yanıt

    Yeah, sounds like you shorted part of the board. If it’s a Series 0 you’re working with, just go get a new one. Not worth fixing.

    Thomas Gehman -

    How do I insert the new battery???

    WebPoppy8 - Yanıt

    After replacing the battery I tried to turn it on and was presented with the red snake, I let it go for about an hour. When I checked it the red snake was gone, when I tried to turn it on it showed the Apple logo for about 4 seconds then went away. Is this normal, and if not what should I do?

    Donald Goodman - Yanıt

    I'm having a similar issue, did you manage to resolve it?

    Craig Lyon -

    Did you calibrate the battery? You need to fill it up completely and let it continue to charge for a few hours first.

    Grant Glass -

    Is it possible to place a battery in and charge/start the watch without the screen plugged in? I want to check integrity of the battery. I was thinking to put it on charge in a closed clear plastic container without the new screen on to see if the battery is good. I ‘really’ do not want to wait another 20 days for a battery replacement and the battery has no visual punctures, front looks good and the back where the adhesive is (or were, rather) is deflated and slightly ‘knobby’. I do not know if it is damage or just how it generally looks like or maybe it looks like so because of the old adhesive. It is not inflated or abnormally expanded. Anyone who knows about this? I used a hair dryer directly on the watch opened to loosen up the adhesive, is that a no-no?

    Philip Bromander - Yanıt

    The battery swelled up and popped off the screen, so went directly to Step 12. Luckily the adhesive below the Force Touch sensor was intact. Was able to complete the fix using the Adhesive Strip after replacing the battery. Works again! Thanks!

    Alex Danci - Yanıt

    The apple logo keeps flashing on my series 1 watch, tried force restart with crown and side button but it still just keeps on flashing the apple logo, does anyone have any advise? Is the issue with the battery? Do I need to get a new battery? I change the screen as the screen was broken and used the existing battery.

    shafeeqrahaman - Yanıt

    yes the issue was with battery, swapped with a new battery and booted up fine.

    shafeeqrahaman -

    Having the same issue.good to hear it’s the battery and not me.

    Grant Glass -

    my watch was completely unloaded and stays in power saver mode when I charge. When I load in power saver mode the red light turns green for a few moments then switch back to red and no longer charge. When I remove the battery and put it back on the charger the charge starts again for a while and then stops. Do I need to change the battery? (apple watch serie 4 nike)

    IXO bf - Yanıt

    Where should I dispose of my old I watch battery?

    oconnor84 - Yanıt

    I replaced the screen and battery on mine. Now, it will not charge. Everything works fine, except charging. Any ideas why this may be?

    Donald Fournier - Yanıt

    My series one has two other cables/strings in the bottom left corner. Why do none of the pictures address this?

    thatgreatdeal - Yanıt

    My watch hasn’t recalibrated with the new battery. Even a couple of weeks later I still get premature low battery - it can take hours for the final 10% to run out after the first 90% only took 9 hours. I left it off the charger for multiple days after installation and yet I could still quickly wake it up by pressing the crown to see the time reported with red numbers, so I don’t think it fully ran out.

    Is there a way to force calibration? A Google search didn’t yield anything useful in the first several pages of results.

    Chris B - Yanıt

    If you’re lucky (?) the swollen battery will pop the screen right off for you. Anyone know where to get a replacement battery for a Series 0 watch?

    rmann - Yanıt

    Watching various videos and instructions from others, I found that there’s no need to remove the screen if your goal is to only swap out the battery.

    It’s meant to make it easier to clean off the old glue and install some double-sided adhesive tape but it was far more simpler to loop the tape around the screen with a pair of tweezers than to try to wrangle with the metal bracket securing the display and digitiser cable connectors.

    T-7000 glue can presumably be used in lieu of double-sided adhesive tape but it’s definitely more messier.

    Anyway, I was initially quite annoyed about my battery expanding and popping the screen off but very quickly got over it when I realised it was a simple $20 DIY fix. Guess I got lucky this time..

    osienna - Yanıt

Sonuç

Continuez à partir de l'étape 17 du tutoriel du capteur Force Touch Sensor pour refermer votre montre et finaliser votre réparation.

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Andrew Optimus Goldheart

Üyelik tarihi: 17-10-2009

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I did a battery replacement in a 38mm Series 1 iwatch and the darn battery is not charging properly. It's been on the charger about 3 hours and I'm only at 14%. Any suggestions?

shableigh226 - Yanıt

I managed to replace a swollen battery ($33.25 on amazon) that popped the screen, but this is not for the faint of heart. Special emphasis needs to be placed on not twisting the digitizer connectors as they are quite fragile ($119.99 on ebay for a new digitizer). It's also easy to damage the force-touch sensor ($24.95 on iFixit). You also need adhesive gaskets ($12.98 for 5 on Amazon)

iFixit lists all the parts required but were out of stock on all but one of the items I needed at the time.

Battery:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MV2...

Digitizer:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/262744629522?_tr...

Force Touch Sensor Gasket:

[bağlı ürün eksik veya kapalı: IF308-013-2]

Adhesive Strips:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4J...

Charles Fulnecky - Yanıt

Appreciate the detailed steps, happy for the option but after reading the $79 to get Apple to replace vs the $33, plus tools for battery... taking it to Apple Store does not seem so bad.

fourydog - Yanıt

79 is just for battery …there Will be around 220$ service fees extra !!!

purnendra pratap singh -

Nope $79 complete. Just had it done at Apple store. Took about 30 minutes.

Albert -

I’ve been on a bootloop for a day now after replacing the battery for my Apple Watch series 1

any suggestions on how I can fix this?

9cRon Cordero - Yanıt

I’ve been stuck on a bootloop for a day now

9cRon Cordero - Yanıt

I was planning to only replace the seal - just glue it back down and call it good. The watch front looks flat when I put it back and the battery doesn’t seem to be pushing up on it. (!&&* I had been thinking about buying some super- glue or silicone glue and not ordering anything)

THOUGHTS? SUGGESTIONS? BEEN THERE DONE THAT?

Mark Bailey - Yanıt

glue does the job …

Mattis -

How long did it take to charge the new battery after replacement?

Micki Bartlett - Yanıt

I heated the glass until it was too hot to hold a finger on, but I still could not pry the glass loose with the curved razor knife blade. I also tried pulling the glass up with a suction cup and was able to exert quite a bit of force but not enough to release the glass.

Stephen Casner - Yanıt

I had a swollen battery that popped the display off. Apple store would not replace the battery for $79, so I got a replacement from iFixit. The paper “how to condition your battery” notice got stuck to the glue on the replacement battery, so I used a little bit of Scotch double-sided tape to stick the battery to the case interior. Wish I’d used glue, the display is raised a barely noticeable fraction of a millimeter. Connecting the new battery to the battery cable connector was very difficult. I ended up using a pair of needle-nose pliers to squeeze them (carefully and delicately!) together. Be sure to remove the existing adhesive gasket lining before adding the replacement: I had to use an exacto blade to peel up and cut off a bit of it, then tweezers to pull it off. Applying the replacement double-sided tape gasket is very tricky. If I were to do it again, I’d decouple the display cable first (and get a second pair of hands). Fortunately, I have an LED-lighted magnifier visor and lots of patience.

Sugar Fish - Yanıt

I did it, and made a video about it

You can watch it here: https://youtu.be/s8uyA3dQgXg

Bill Debevc - Yanıt

The battery change was not difficult, everything worked as described, all the tools and parts were there (even the battery adhesive was included, despite the description saying that it isn’t).

Except one thing: the description is missing what to do if the Force-Touch-sensor is NOT damaged.

What is the best way to put the screen back on without replacing the Force-Touch sensor?

Does it need glue? Or just re-heating and pressing it on is enough?

I tried the re-heating and so far ok, but I’d really like some guidance… will this hold? Or should I use glue… what kind of glue?

it worked - Yanıt

follow-up: Found the answer - it is not enough to just re-heat it, display falls of again. And in the process of cleaning the edges I finally managed to rip off one contact of the Force touch sensor. So maybe should have taken it out in the first place to do the cleaning. Was just trying to avoid disconnecting the other two connectors which looked scary but wasnt.

Ended up having to use the sensor that came with the kit… and then… big disappointment - the necessary screwdriver bit was missing from the kit. I think the screwdriver is supposed to come with three bits, one of them the tri-tip. But mine had only two bits in the handle… maybe better that way, cos looking at those other bits… not very impressive precision there. So ordered a separate Y000 screwdriver online and did the whole thing again. Now I think it finally works though…

Instructions almost great (missing my scenario), parts great, tools big miss. Probably worth 3.5 stars…

it worked - Yanıt

my watch was completely unloaded and stays in power saver mode when I charge. When I load in power saver mode the red light turns green for a few moments then switch back to red and no longer charge. When I remove the battery and put it back on the charger the charge starts again for a while and then stops. Do I need to change the battery? (apple watch serie 4 nike)

IXO bf - Yanıt

after following all the steps and getting the battery from ifixit my watch will not charge or turn on now. i will see the apple logo for a second then it goes dead. any ideas?

james transue - Yanıt

I had to manually charge the battery outside of the watch as it had entered “over-discharged protection” (reading 0 volts) and the watch doesn’t appear to have the power to kick the battery back out of that mode. It only needed “charging” manually for a minute or so before it had enough power to run in the watch and charge that way. Did it on a breadboard with some solid core wire hooking up the positive (left wide gold pin) and ground (silver casing). I know they come sealed, but would be nice if the batteries were tested/charged enough before being sent out. I wouldn’t expect many people to be able/willing to manually charge a battery with the size of the connector, and also because it carries some risk!

Symptoms of this were the green charging snake appearing for less than a second, and then the watch not responding when pressing the button. It should wake the screen back up if the battery is okay/charging.

Chris Wright - Yanıt

My battery swelled up and made this a bunch easier to do. I used the pick (see second picture in step 14) in this orientation to drop a bit of alcohol down under the battery to help with the adhesive. That worked a treat! Battery is in and it’s on the charger now, waiting to see if force touch works when it boots up.

Tyler - Yanıt

Everything went well with the repair and the guide was tremendously helpful. Just a few caveats I’d like to add:

1. The old battery may REALLY be stuck down on to the case. Go VERY slowly when prying it out.

2. You will have to remove the screen, regardless whether or not you need to replace the Force Touch sensor. Prying apart that metal clip which encloses the screen cable, is a royal PITA…just be patient.

3. The adhesive ring to reseal the watch is quite flimsy to handle. You’ll have to be very careful lining it up properly. And make sure you really clean the surfaces with alcohol and let them dry thoroughly before applying the new adhesive ring.

Thanks iFixIt!!

John Merjave - Yanıt

I tried everything on here and once I replaced the battery nothing turned on. In fact with the old swollen battery it did turn on. I’m not sure if the battery I got is faulty or not. That or I have done the replacement incorrectly

Adrian Fedele - Yanıt

Replaced the battery but it wont charge. Screen shows a charging cable with a green lightning bolt, but it wont ever charge enough to turn on?

Lee Wampler - Yanıt

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