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  1. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    • Before proceeding, unplug and power down your MacBook. Close the display and flip it upside-down.

    • 2015 models only: To avoid logic board damage, when your MacBook repair is complete but before powering it on, connect it to low-voltage power using a 5-Watt iPhone charger and a USB-C to USB-A cable.

    • Remove the following eight screws securing the lower case:

    • Two 1.8 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Four 2.9 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Two 6.1 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Note the orientation of the screws as you remove them—they need to be reinstalled at a slight angle.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    If, like me, you didn’t have a P5 Pentalope screwdriver but did have one that fits an iPhone.

    You can sand down the tip until it’s the right size.

    Stuart - Yanıt

    Hello,

    where do I plug the USB-C to USB-A cable on MacBook MacBook Pro (Retina, 15-inch, Mid 2015)

    I can’t any port suitable for USB-c !??

    sissi - Yanıt

  2. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case, starting from the rear of the MacBook between the hinges. Lift the lower case only slightly to avoid damaging the cables that connect the lower case to the upper case. Keeping a firm grip, lift steadily until the lower case separates slightly from the upper case.
    • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case, starting from the rear of the MacBook between the hinges.

    • Lift the lower case only slightly to avoid damaging the cables that connect the lower case to the upper case.

    • Keeping a firm grip, lift steadily until the lower case separates slightly from the upper case.

    • You may experience a lot of resistance when lifting the lower case. If necessary, slide an opening pick or other ESD-safe pry tool down the side edges of the lower case to pop the two hidden retaining clips free.

    • During reassembly, to re-engage the clips, press firmly near both side edges of the lower case (near where the pick is inserted in the third image) until you hear the clips snap into place.

  3. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    While holding the lower case in place, carefully flip the MacBook over so the Apple logo faces up.
    • While holding the lower case in place, carefully flip the MacBook over so the Apple logo faces up.

  4. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Lift the upper case and display together from the front edge and raise it to about a 45˚ angle. It may be helpful to prop the MacBook open in this position for the next step.
    • Lift the upper case and display together from the front edge and raise it to about a 45˚ angle.

    • It may be helpful to prop the MacBook open in this position for the next step.

    This step at the suggested height tears the ribbon cable. do step 7 first. carefully

    Kiernan - Yanıt

  5. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Use the flat end of a spudger to press and hold the small gold 'battery disconnect' button. If the power LED is lit up, continue holding the button until the LED goes dark, and then release. This may take up to 10 seconds. If the LED does not light, release the button after 5-10 seconds. Press and hold it again for 5-10 seconds, and release. Finally, press and hold it a third time for 5-10 seconds, and release.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to press and hold the small gold 'battery disconnect' button.

    • If the power LED is lit up, continue holding the button until the LED goes dark, and then release. This may take up to 10 seconds.

    • If the LED does not light, release the button after 5-10 seconds. Press and hold it again for 5-10 seconds, and release. Finally, press and hold it a third time for 5-10 seconds, and release.

    • This step ensures the MacBook is fully powered down and safe to work on.

    Wow okay could someone explain why this is necessary? What happens if you skip this step and simply undo the screw to disconnect the power?

    EB Computers - Yanıt

    Removing the screw does not disconnect the power—power comes from the battery terminals contacting the underside of the logic board, and they’re tricky to separate reliably at this stage of disassembly. This step is the safest and easiest way to kill power; don’t skip it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    What if I can’t get my LED to power on when reassembling the machine?

    greg2b - Yanıt

    Update: Realized my USB-C connector (Step 14) wasn’t properly seated.

    greg2b -

    Hi what will happen if i skip this step, coz i did tried to power down the battery by pressing small gold button, but no avail. the LED light still there even after more than 5 times press (5-10secs or more) each press.

    Dimitri Zaborski - Yanıt

  6. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Close the MacBook and carefully flip it upside-down.
    • Close the MacBook and carefully flip it upside-down.

  7. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Lifting from the front edge, open the lower case to an angle of about 45°.
    • Lifting from the front edge, open the lower case to an angle of about 45°.

    • Take care not to damage the ribbon cables that still attach the lower case to the MacBook.

    Before the IPD flex cable can be removed the battery disconnect button has be held down for up to 10 seconds. If the LED near the battery connector is switched on it shows that there is power going through the logic board from the battery, once the button is pressed and this light goes off the machine is safe to be worked on.

    Aaron Dalziel - Yanıt

  8. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the trackpad cable ZIF connector. Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the trackpad cable ZIF connector.
    • Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the trackpad cable ZIF connector.

  9. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Use a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad cable ZIF connector. Use a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad cable ZIF connector.
    • Use a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad cable ZIF connector.

    This is very tricky indeed - at least on my computer. I failed at this point - having skipped to it as sugested above so as not to stress the ribbons on the other side. The ZIF was not as I expected. They had opened when I pulled up the stick cover and I found I was working on the socket itself. The top edge came adrift after almost no pressure being put on it. The ribon did not come free with gentle pulling though. At that point I put the back on again… waited until the battery recharged a bit and found I had not nroken it after all. I doubt I shall try again. It is much harder to replace than the 15 inch - much…

    Simon Anthony - Yanıt

    I’ve just found that I have broken it after all. No keyboard. Bluetooth still works so I can use the machine.

    All in all, an expensive mistake. BTW - I did NOT get the kit from IFIXIT - not sold here.

    Simon Anthony - Yanıt

    I found “Recognizing & Disconnecting Cable Connectors”

    Recognizing & Disconnecting Cable Connectors

    useful, esp. for someone who has not used ZIF connectors and retaining flaps before. There are several retaining flaps that need to be opened. The first time is tricky as you need a sense of how much force to apply. I used the flat end of the provided spudger. Apply progressively firmer upward pressure until the retaining flap pops open. The first time is tricky, but straightforward thereafter.

    Ki Park - Yanıt

  10. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable from the trackpad by pulling it gently through its slot in the frame. Disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable from the trackpad by pulling it gently through its slot in the frame.
    • Disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable from the trackpad by pulling it gently through its slot in the frame.

  11. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Carefully turn the MacBook over, so that the lower case lays flat. Raise the upper case/display assembly to about a 90° angle, and prop it up against something sturdy so you don't have to hold it.
    • Carefully turn the MacBook over, so that the lower case lays flat.

    • Raise the upper case/display assembly to about a 90° angle, and prop it up against something sturdy so you don't have to hold it.

    • Add a piece of tape near the track pad to secure the upper case and prevent accidental movement.

    • It's possible to open the MacBook all the way and lay both sides down flat, but this may damage the flex cables and is not recommended.

    You can open the laptop screen all the way open with it flat in the table (screen facing up) and the keyboard should stay up.

    xavierviveros - Yanıt

  12. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board. 2015 models have a silver grounding clip with two foam pads directly under this screw, which may come loose. Be sure to reinstall it during reassembly.
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

    • 2015 models have a silver grounding clip with two foam pads directly under this screw, which may come loose. Be sure to reinstall it during reassembly.

    the moment you opening macbook case and before any tinkering with connections, you MUST press little yellow button on logicboard, located on the right from battery connector - this will disable all power to the board. You can check by looking at the small led on left side of the battery connector - if there is very faint light, it means that power is still there. After pressing button light should go off. Removing screw is not necessary at all, and like I said - you MUST disable power before any touching to connections etc.

    DigiHead - Yanıt

  13. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    As an added precaution, you may physically disconnect the battery by inserting a battery isolation pick between the logic board and the battery connector. As an added precaution, you may physically disconnect the battery by inserting a battery isolation pick between the logic board and the battery connector.
    • As an added precaution, you may physically disconnect the battery by inserting a battery isolation pick between the logic board and the battery connector.

  14. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Remove the two screws securing the USB-C port cable bracket:
    • Remove the two screws securing the USB-C port cable bracket:

    • 1.1 mm Tri-point Y00 screw

    • Some variations of this model may use a Phillips screw.

    • 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    This was oddly the hardest part. That Tri-Point screw just wouldn’t budge! I had to sand the end of the only Tri-point screwdriver I had in the end to get it to fit.

    Stuart - Yanıt

    Be sure to get the metal plate under the chip near where the PT5 screw is before tightening

    abscate - Yanıt

    I should have read the comments before using the provided 1.1 mm Tri-point Y00 bit. I almost stripped the screw but was able to use a small flat head bit to open the screw.

    Ifixit: you may want to update this part in the instructions. Not everyone reads the comment section, esp. when it comes to specification of bits which is basic and must be accurate. This is one of the more critical ones in the procedure that can easily go south. The rest of the instructions are excellent.

    Ki Park - Yanıt

    early 2015 model here. I’ve used a Y1.5 with cautiously applied down force.

    beaudry.ian - Yanıt

    My 2015 had a 2.5mm Y screw not a Y000.

    Michael Bonney - Yanıt

    Adding to the helpful comments above, on replacing the 1.1mm tripoint screw, I found the the magnetism of the nearby speaker coil overcame that of the driver and would draw the screw away or the combo of forces would fling it out of the work area! After fiddling with it for too long, I used some of the battery adhesive removed earlier to attached the screw to the driver. Wax would probably work better if I’d had some.

    jefflyons - Yanıt

    I used the PH00 head to unscrew what they call the “1.1 mm Tri-point Y00 screw”, NOT the Y00 head, and it unscrewed perfectly fine.

    Grace Escamilla - Yanıt

  15. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the USB-C port cable bracket by prying it straight up from the logic board. To reconnect this cable, first line up the metal bracket over the screw holes, then press down on the middle of the bracket. Make sure it's aligned correctly, or you may damage the connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the USB-C port cable bracket by prying it straight up from the logic board.

    • To reconnect this cable, first line up the metal bracket over the screw holes, then press down on the middle of the bracket. Make sure it's aligned correctly, or you may damage the connector.

    Emphasis on aligning the bracket correctly. What the pictures do not show is that underneath the flat part of the metal bracket (the area between the two screw holes) is a connector that needs to be accurately aligned. Aligning the two screw holes does not imply that the connector is seated correctly.

    After I re-assembled my 2015 MacBook power would not come on. I thought I had damaged the logic board despite being careful and following instructions. Diagnosing the problem took a while. Retracing the steps and focusing on power supply I was able to determine that the metal flap which hides the connector underneath had not made proper contact.

    What I did was to use a finger to get a tactile feel for the connector underneath the metal bracket aligning properly and then press down vertically when it seemed to be aligned. It’s a subtle tactile feel. After re-doing this step, I got power back. Be careful not to damage the connector as noted in the instructions.

    Ki Park - Yanıt

  16. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Use a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the audio jack board cable ZIF connector. Use a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the audio jack board cable ZIF connector.
    • Use a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the audio jack board cable ZIF connector.

  17. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Disconnect the audio jack board ribbon cable by pulling it straight back out of the ZIF connector.
    • Disconnect the audio jack board ribbon cable by pulling it straight back out of the ZIF connector.

    • During reassembly, orient the ribbon cable so that the side with the white stripe faces you, as shown.

    hey my macbook do not have sound after replacing the topcase, i did connect everything like here you did, also I did the reset of PR and NVRAM. What Can I check more? simply when I open the OS, there is no audio device at all

    dkflu - Yanıt

  18. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the display cable connector. Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the display cable connector.
    • Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the display cable connector.

  19. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    It's possible the metal retaining flap on the display cable connector may flip open, remaining stuck to the tape. If so, use the flat end of a spudger to hold down the retaining flap while peeling the tape away with the tweezers.
    • It's possible the metal retaining flap on the display cable connector may flip open, remaining stuck to the tape.

    • If so, use the flat end of a spudger to hold down the retaining flap while peeling the tape away with the tweezers.

  20. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Use the flat end of a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the display cable connector.
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the display cable connector.

    • Try to keep it clear of the tape, or it may re-adhere and make cable removal difficult.

  21. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    • Carefully slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the display cable to separate the adhesive holding it to the lower case.

    • Take care not to damage the cable. If it doesn't separate easily, heat the cable and/or the case directly beneath it with a hair dryer or iOpener to soften the adhesive, and try again.

  22. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Disconnect the display cable by gently pulling it straight out of its connector.
    • Disconnect the display cable by gently pulling it straight out of its connector.

    • Immediately close the retaining flap.

    • The flap must remain closed when the cable is reinserted during reassembly. Carefully line up the cable with the gold contacts facing down, and gently slide it into the connector. Take care not to crimp or damage the cable. When fully inserted, the indentations on the sides should not be visible.

    A step was skipped. You have to flip up the metal locking tab on the socket before the cable can be removed. See the photo.

    Vin Coniglione - Yanıt

    And be careful when re-inserting the connector. One end of the two indentations got a little bent (I did not notice) which resulted in a black screen when powering up. I used a heat gun (low setting) to separate the cable from the labtop housing. When re-assembling, first insert the connector (after closing the metal flap as instructed), verify that it’s properly seated, then re-attach the rest of the cable to the laptop housing. In the first try, I first re-attached the cable to the housing, then tried to insert the cable connected into the metal socket. Because of a lack of slack, the cable connector at one end got bent slightly. After identifying the problem, I had to straighten it/unbend out using my fingers. Hence it is easier to insert the connector first, then attach the rest of the cable to the laptop housing.

    Ki Park - Yanıt

  23. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Separate the upper case assembly from the lower case assembly.
    • Separate the upper case assembly from the lower case assembly.

  24. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Use tweezers to peel up the tape covering the two ZIF connectors—one for the right speaker cable, and one for the audio jack board cable. Use tweezers to peel up the tape covering the two ZIF connectors—one for the right speaker cable, and one for the audio jack board cable. Use tweezers to peel up the tape covering the two ZIF connectors—one for the right speaker cable, and one for the audio jack board cable.
    • Use tweezers to peel up the tape covering the two ZIF connectors—one for the right speaker cable, and one for the audio jack board cable.

    Removing the logicboard must be safer way, but battery replacement can be accomplished if you skip here to step 32, and omit 36.

    Aki Mochi - Yanıt

  25. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Use the point of a spudger to flip up both ZIF connector retaining flaps. Use the point of a spudger to flip up both ZIF connector retaining flaps. Use the point of a spudger to flip up both ZIF connector retaining flaps.
    • Use the point of a spudger to flip up both ZIF connector retaining flaps.

  26. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Carefully pull straight back on the two pieces of tape you just peeled up to disconnect the two ribbon cables. Carefully pull straight back on the two pieces of tape you just peeled up to disconnect the two ribbon cables.
    • Carefully pull straight back on the two pieces of tape you just peeled up to disconnect the two ribbon cables.

  27. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Use the point of a spudger to peel up the foam pad covering the two antenna connectors. Use the point of a spudger to peel up the foam pad covering the two antenna connectors.
    • Use the point of a spudger to peel up the foam pad covering the two antenna connectors.

  28. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Use tweezers to disconnect the first antenna connector by lifting it straight up from its socket. The antenna connectors and sockets are extremely fragile. Be very careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket itself. Do not lift under the cable, or put any unnecessary strain on it.
    • Use tweezers to disconnect the first antenna connector by lifting it straight up from its socket.

    • The antenna connectors and sockets are extremely fragile. Be very careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket itself. Do not lift under the cable, or put any unnecessary strain on it.

    The supplied tweezer is no good. You need one with grooves as shown in the picture. When re-inserting the antenna connectors, make sure that they are seated properly before pushing down. If you have magnifying equipment, use that to get visual confirmation. I used tactile feedback from my fingers to discern proper alignment. Try not to force it.

    Ki Park - Yanıt

    I used the tweezers provided by iFixit. I struggled with both connectors and finally managed to disconnect both, but when I came back to reconnect them, I realized that both connectors on the logic board were loose. Long story short, it turns out that my little exciting adventure changing the battery cost me $530 to send it for repair at Apple Care. I am quite good at troubleshooting Mac and used to work for Apple for many years. This one step is more dangerous than it seems, because you can end up like me, without wifi on your mac. Honestly, for those who think they can do it, think twice. You can thank me later…

    Arthur Liegeois - Yanıt

  29. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Use tweezers to disconnect the second antenna connector by lifting it straight up from its socket. The antenna connectors and sockets are extremely fragile. Be very careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket itself. Do not lift under the cable, or put any unnecessary strain on it.
    • Use tweezers to disconnect the second antenna connector by lifting it straight up from its socket.

    • The antenna connectors and sockets are extremely fragile. Be very careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket itself. Do not lift under the cable, or put any unnecessary strain on it.

    Broke a connector. Now what?

    chrisadams - Yanıt

  30. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Use a spudger to disconnect the left speaker cable connector by prying it straight up from the logic board. Use a spudger to disconnect the left speaker cable connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.
    • Use a spudger to disconnect the left speaker cable connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

  31. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Use a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad cable ZIF connector. Use a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad cable ZIF connector.
    • Use a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad cable ZIF connector.

  32. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Disconnect the trackpad cable from the logic board by gently pulling it straight out of its connector.
    • Disconnect the trackpad cable from the logic board by gently pulling it straight out of its connector.

    Once the logic board has been replaced, when following these instructions in the reverse order it should be pointed out that the all the flaps are flipped down. A distracted person might try to force in the flat connector before realising that he has to flip up the flap of the new logic board.

    Davide Dante - Yanıt

  33. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Remove the single 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw securing the logic board to the lower case.
    • Remove the single 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw securing the logic board to the lower case.

  34. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Flip up the front edge of the logic board. Handle the logic board only by its edges. Lift and detach the EMI tape securing the logic board to the lower case.
    • Flip up the front edge of the logic board.

    • Handle the logic board only by its edges.

    • Lift and detach the EMI tape securing the logic board to the lower case.

    • Warming the tape with a hair dryer or iOpener makes it easier to detach.

    • Reattach the tape securely during reassembly.

  35. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Remove the logic board.
    • Remove the logic board.

    If you are replacing the logic board once the machine has been rebuild the 2015 model has to have a 5W power adapter plugged into the machine first before the full 29W power supply otherwise there is a risk of damaging the logic board. Once the power is supplied the battery disconnect LED will switch on and once this has occurred you can remove the 5W and supply the machine with the full 29W power adapter.

    Aaron Dalziel - Yanıt

    While it’s true that the internal documentation specifies this for a 2015, after frying 2 motherboards with a normal charger, I spoke with the engineers and they told me that this also applies to 2016 and 2017 macbook main logic boards. I say- It can’t hurt to try to wake them up with a 5 watt charger first! Please take 5 minutes to save your motherboard.

    Noah -

  36. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Lift the back edge of the lower case assembly and prop it up at an angle using a book or foam block. In the following steps, you'll apply liquid adhesive remover along the edges of the battery cells. Keeping part of the MacBook elevated will help the adhesive remover flow underneath the battery. You can reorient the MacBook as needed throughout this procedure, but try to prevent the adhesive remover from touching any components other than the battery and metal chassis.
    • Lift the back edge of the lower case assembly and prop it up at an angle using a book or foam block.

    • In the following steps, you'll apply liquid adhesive remover along the edges of the battery cells. Keeping part of the MacBook elevated will help the adhesive remover flow underneath the battery.

    • You can reorient the MacBook as needed throughout this procedure, but try to prevent the adhesive remover from touching any components other than the battery and metal chassis.

    • If necessary, add a layer of aluminum foil underneath your MacBook to protect your workspace from wayward drops of adhesive remover.

  37. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant. Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)
    • iFixit adhesive remover contains acetone, a mild skin and eye irritant.

    • Wear eye protection when handling and applying the adhesive remover. (Eye protection is included in your kit.)

    • Do not wear contact lenses without eye protection.

    • Protective gloves are also included in your kit. If you are concerned about skin irritation, put your gloves on now.

  38. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover. Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip. This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.
    • Pull off the black rubber stopper from your bottle of adhesive remover.

    • Twist to loosen or remove the bottle cap before you cut the applicator tip.

    • This unseals the bottle and allows the pressure to equalize before you cut the applicator tip. If you skip this step, the adhesive remover may spray out unexpectedly when the tip is cut.

    • Use scissors to cut off the sealed tip of the applicator.

    • Cutting close to the narrow tip will give you better control so you can apply the adhesive remover in small amounts.

    • Twist and close the bottle cap securely before you proceed further.

  39. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    The adhesive securing the battery cells to the lower case is located in the areas marked in red. You may use this step for reference when applying the adhesive remover in the following steps. You may use this step for reference when applying the adhesive remover in the following steps.
    • The adhesive securing the battery cells to the lower case is located in the areas marked in red.

    • You may use this step for reference when applying the adhesive remover in the following steps.

  40. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Apply a few drops of adhesive remover along the top edge of the front right battery cell. You don't need to use very much. The small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all six battery cells.
    • Apply a few drops of adhesive remover along the top edge of the front right battery cell.

    • You don't need to use very much. The small bottle contains more than twice the amount of solvent needed to remove all six battery cells.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the liquid adhesive remover to penetrate underneath the battery cell before you proceed to the next step.

    Das ist nicht nötig. Ich habe mit einer schmalen Spachtel die Akkus sehr gut und vorsichtig vom Klebstoff getrennt.

    Hat wunderbar geklappt.

    Gruß aus München, Tom

    Thomas Schroeder - Yanıt

  41. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    After 2-3 minutes, slide one corner of a plastic card underneath the battery cell. This should require minimal force. If you have trouble, apply more adhesive remover along the other edges of the battery cell and give it 2-3 additional minutes to penetrate. Try not to deform the battery. A damaged or punctured battery can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.
    • After 2-3 minutes, slide one corner of a plastic card underneath the battery cell.

    • This should require minimal force. If you have trouble, apply more adhesive remover along the other edges of the battery cell and give it 2-3 additional minutes to penetrate.

    • Try not to deform the battery. A damaged or punctured battery can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.

    • It may help to gently twist the card to open up a slight gap between the battery cell and the MacBook's case.

    • Slide the card farther underneath the battery cell to separate it from the adhesive securing it to the case.

  42. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Lift the battery cell from the right edge to fully separate it from the adhesive, but don't try to remove it. Leave the plastic card underneath the battery cell to prevent it from re-adhering as you proceed to the next step.
    • Lift the battery cell from the right edge to fully separate it from the adhesive, but don't try to remove it.

    • Leave the plastic card underneath the battery cell to prevent it from re-adhering as you proceed to the next step.

  43. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Repeat the previous three steps to separate the front left battery cell. Leave the plastic card underneath the battery cell to prevent it from re-adhering as you proceed to the next step.
    • Repeat the previous three steps to separate the front left battery cell.

    • Leave the plastic card underneath the battery cell to prevent it from re-adhering as you proceed to the next step.

  44. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Repeat the previous steps to separate the large battery cell on the left side of the MacBook. Repeat the previous steps to separate the large battery cell on the left side of the MacBook. Repeat the previous steps to separate the large battery cell on the left side of the MacBook.
    • Repeat the previous steps to separate the large battery cell on the left side of the MacBook.

  45. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Repeat the previous steps to separate the large battery cell on the right side of the MacBook. Be careful not to damage the audio jack flex cable, near the back edge of the battery cell.
    • Repeat the previous steps to separate the large battery cell on the right side of the MacBook.

    • Be careful not to damage the audio jack flex cable, near the back edge of the battery cell.

  46. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Lay the lower case assembly down flat, and apply adhesive remover to the two middle battery cells—at each side, and along the front edge (opposite the logic board area). Lay the lower case assembly down flat, and apply adhesive remover to the two middle battery cells—at each side, and along the front edge (opposite the logic board area). Lay the lower case assembly down flat, and apply adhesive remover to the two middle battery cells—at each side, and along the front edge (opposite the logic board area).
    • Lay the lower case assembly down flat, and apply adhesive remover to the two middle battery cells—at each side, and along the front edge (opposite the logic board area).

  47. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Apply some additional adhesive remover down the middle between the two battery cells.
    • Apply some additional adhesive remover down the middle between the two battery cells.

    • Wait 2-3 minutes for the adhesive remover to penetrate before you proceed.

  48. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Insert your plastic card under the front edge one of the battery cells and separate it carefully. Try not to deform the battery. A damaged or punctured battery can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire. If you're having trouble getting the card underneath the battery cell, try working a piece of floss or wire underneath the battery cell and pull it side-to-side in a sawing motion to separate the adhesive.
    • Insert your plastic card under the front edge one of the battery cells and separate it carefully.

    • Try not to deform the battery. A damaged or punctured battery can leak dangerous chemicals and/or catch fire.

    • If you're having trouble getting the card underneath the battery cell, try working a piece of floss or wire underneath the battery cell and pull it side-to-side in a sawing motion to separate the adhesive.

  49. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Repeat the previous step to separate the final battery cell.
    • Repeat the previous step to separate the final battery cell.

  50. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    Remove the battery by lifting it away from the speaker and logic board area. Take care not to drag the battery over the lower case assembly, or you may damage the speakers or flex cables. Before installing your new battery, remove all the remaining adhesive from the MacBook's case.
    • Remove the battery by lifting it away from the speaker and logic board area.

    • Take care not to drag the battery over the lower case assembly, or you may damage the speakers or flex cables.

    • Before installing your new battery, remove all the remaining adhesive from the MacBook's case.

    • Peel off larger pieces of adhesive using tweezers or gloved fingers.

    • Scrape away any remaining adhesive with a plastic tool, and clean the underlying areas with adhesive remover or isopropyl alcohol. Wipe in one direction, not back and forth, until all the adhesive residue is gone.

    • This can take quite a bit of work, so be patient.

    Change the battery: 25 minutes

    Remove the adhesive: 2:35 hours

    Andrea Moretti - Yanıt

    Frankly, this is the hardest and time consuming step throughout replacement task. I strongly recommend to utilize chemical tools to get rid of residue of adhesive tape. I used unused credit card to scrape it away. Be patient.

    Aki Mochi - Yanıt

    I used citrus oil. It’s vegan. Mr Jobs would approve ;) Made it very easy - less than an hour. After removing battery with the method shown in this iFixit, apply oil to remaining adhesive (black stuff included). Wait five minutes. Scrape black stuff away with plastic card etc. Wipe glue residue from edges towards middle (of each cell) with cloth. I used an old face washer. The nap picks up the clumps of dissolved glue residue nicely. Finish with clean cloth and alcohol. Looks like new!

    Pete Smith - Yanıt

  51. Bu adım çevrilmemiş. Çevrilmesine yardım edin

    • Test your new battery's fit and alignment carefully before installing it.

    • Unlike most laptop batteries, the MacBook's battery is precisely contoured to fit the "terraced" shape of the lower case. Each cell must be correctly positioned, or the MacBook may not close correctly and damage may result.

    • Your replacement battery may come affixed to a thick plastic top liner to help keep the individual cells in position as you install it. Don't remove this liner until after the battery is installed.

    • If your battery came with adhesive pre-installed on the bottom, peel away the bottom plastic liners to expose the adhesive. If your battery did not come with adhesive, apply a thin double-sided adhesive tape such as Tesa 61395 to the lower case in the areas marked in red.

    • Carefully position the battery and set it into place. Press and hold each cell firmly for 5-10 seconds to secure it to the lower case. Afterward, peel off the plastic top liner along with any foam padding.

    • 2015 models only: After reassembly, remember to connect your MacBook to low-voltage power before turning it on. Failure to follow these instructions may result in logic board damage.

    • Calibrate your newly installed battery: charge it to 100%, and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Unplug and use it normally to drain the battery. When you see the low battery warning, save your work, and keep your laptop on until it goes to sleep due to low battery. Wait at least 5 hours, then charge your laptop uninterrupted to 100%.

    • If you notice any unusual behavior or problems after installing your new battery, you may need to reset your MacBook's SMC.

    hola a todos, yo le he cambiado la batería a todos mis Macbook pero el cambio de esta batería fue verdaderamente aterrador, les recomiendo que si está en su posibilidad económica pagar a un agente autorizado o una macstore hagalo, el cambio de mi batería lo realice yo y fue satisfactorio, pero me faltaron muchas herramientas. el Macbook no encendido a la primera destapar revisar volver a cerrar. la batería tiene una pega extremadamente dura y me costo mucho sacarla Suerte

    jesset81 - Yanıt

    hello to all, I have changed the battery to all my Macbook but the change of this battery was truly terrifying, I recommend that if it is in your financial possibility to pay an authorized agent or a macstore do it, the change of my battery makes it  me and it was satisfactory, but I lacked many tools.  the Macbook not turned on the first uncover review close again.  the battery has an extremely hard tack and it cost me a lot to take it out, luck

    jesset81 - Yanıt

    To remove the battery, I applied acetone on the edges of the battery. Kept it tilted fir a few minutes and started prying with a credit card. Reapply acetone to the edge of the card, pry again, wait a few minutes and pry again. I thought it would be harder than it was. Removing the battery and all adhesive probably cost 30 minutes work.

    vanblerk123 - Yanıt

Bitiş Çizgisi

70 farklı kişi bu kılavuzu tamamladı.

Jeff Suovanen

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Beautiful. ‘Followed the instructions to a T. No issues at all. Thanks!

Peter Rasmussen - Yanıt

Everything worked, except the keyboard. No backlight, no power. Using remote keyboard for now. Any ideas? Trackpad works fine.

Neal Abrams - Yanıt

@nabrams1 Check both cables that connect to the trackpad—make sure all four connectors are clean and fully seated, and that the cables aren’t damaged in any way. The first cable connects the keyboard to the trackpad, and should not have been disconnected, but check it anyway. The second cable connects both keyboard + trackpad to the logic board. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

I did try all of those and checked the cables and ZIF connectors under a microscope. I am thinking a bad trackpad now since it works fine, but the keyboard does not respond. The only way I have figured out o use the machine is to disconnect and reconnect the battery, which is not easy. Otherwise, I cannot power it on myself since the power button is part of the keyboard. Apple won’t touch this now since I replaced the battery myself, so it is kind of a brick. I can’t run AHT since the keyboard doesn’t respond (command-D). Any ideas?

Neal Abrams - Yanıt

Bad trackpad seems possible. If the keyboard was working before the repair, there may be damage to the trackpad or the logic board itself. It’s hard to say without swapping out parts to test, unless you have a microscope + multimeter + board schematic, and we’re rapidly getting out of DIY territory there. I’d probably take another look at the cables and sockets just to make extra sure it’s not something simple. Hope this helps!

Jeff Suovanen -

@nabrams1 Anecdotal, but: someone on our 2016 MacBook teardown commented that their keyboard also stopped working (amongst other things) and that replacing the trackpad did indeed sort things out. So, probably worth a try. ;)

Jeff Suovanen -

Huzzah! I ordered a tracked replacement else suffer bricking my MacBook. All is better and I am typing from the machine right now! I will add a comment to the trackpad replacement, but my machine had T4, not T3 screws. I stripped a couple on the removal. In the end, this was more expensive than Apple replacing the battery, but there is a sense of triumph! I was also bitter since Apple had already replaced the keyboard and screen due to recalls. I wanted to DIY this one. Thank you Jeff!

Neal Abrams - Yanıt

Awesome!! Thanks for the update :D

Jeff Suovanen -

All in all a pretty easy replacement… if it weren’t for the arduous removal of the adhesive!

My device doesn’t have a tri-point screw as mentioned in Step 14, but aside from that, nice writeup!

iamdravenman - Yanıt

Same here, follow instructions, READ throughly and you’ll be fine. Watch for those little connectors, WiFi especially (fragile !). No tri-point screw in 14 either, just a phillips type. As for the adhesive removal I used 70% tech alcohol + 30% acetone mixed together + little spatula that came with battery (bought at Aliexpress). After assembly I connected phone 5V charger as suggested. All worked out fine. Just time consuming :)

Hubert H. - Yanıt

My 2015 macbook does have the tri-point screw Y00 and i only had the crew driver Y0 and Y1 which are to big :-) so made the quick route.

Step 14 T5 only and then steps 31 and 34 so I could tilt the pcb enough to remove and install the new battery.

I used the usb C to usb A cable with a iPhone charger after connecting the computer starte up, and everything is fine now 4592mAh and cycle 1 :-)

Hope that this battery last longer than the 272 cycles of the original battery. Thanks for the detailed description what makes at easier for me to judge if I will manage.

Gert Jan

Gert Jan Bollen - Yanıt

I used the guide and it worked very well. I did not have the adhesive remover and simply used heat and a scraper to manually remove the batterie. I was very careful during that manual removal it worked very well. Because of that, I skipped steps 14-33 and I think I was better off. I simply lifted the logic board up and remove the battery while all the cables were in place. I feel this was better because there was less risk of breaking a connector or cable. I cut a lot of work out of the project and it went very well. I had it completed in about 45 minutes.

dhilbish - Yanıt

Great guide - thanks a lot! Like another user I skipped steps 14 to 33. It was no problem to remove the battery without removing the logic board and all the other stuff. You only have to be careful to hold the body of the Macbook tight so that it does not move when you work on the battery.

Heating the glue was not sufficient, I had to go and buy the detergent.

Christian Schmidt - Yanıt

After performing the steps, and the low power startup procedure, on initial startup I had chime, the battery charging image (48%) and then the screen went gray - and the mouse pointer was on the screen and it would respond to the trackpad. Then the screen went squirelly (kinda like it lost sync). I restarted the laptop and then the screen went blank. I’ve gone back in a couple of times to reseat the display cable, to no avail. And I’ve lost the keyboard lights. So I’m going to take a breather and try to perform steps 1 to 22 over again. Any advice?

bryanlethcoe - Yanıt

I went back in and reseated the trackpad ribbon cable and reclosed the ZIF connector, which restored the keyboard. I used an external monitor to confirm that the laptop is booting up. I also reseated the display cable, but that did not work. I have a new cable coming in a few days, and I’ll replace the current cable, hopefully to fix the issue…

bryanlethcoe -

Hi, I did everything as said on the guide, but my computer is totally dead. Nothing happens when I charge it, and I can’t turn it on. I thought there was a problem with the battery I bought, but now I got a new one, and it still can’t turn on. I have checked every connection 4 times, so is there anyone who has an idea to what I can do? I don’t have a usb-c to usb-a cable so I just used the normal charger. Could that be it? Thanks in advance!

Viktor Sorensen - Yanıt

And the small led light on the logic board is lit.

Viktor Sorensen -

Hi,

A short way is also possible, take about 15-20min to change the battery for me.

DON’T do steps 8-9-10, disconnect the ZIF connector on the motherboard side only.

SKIP steps 15>>30, only lift the motherboard by placing a pencil eraser under it, and finally SKIP step 35.

For detaching the battery, a credit card also work, no need detergent

Work great for me.

munnin - Yanıt

Excellent instructions. My first time opening a macbook. I did see the route to the short way some mentioned as I was going through the steps, but it would not have worked for my repair. I had to get in there, battle the adhesive (still using remover), and pick the bits off which would have been near impossible if it wasn’t fully opened without risking those connectors. Last battery lasted 970 cycles comfortably; I don’t know if heavy use, travel, dirt, heat, etc. really cemented my battery adhesive. Having it fully apart allowed me to be meticulous about getting it clean and perfectly seated as well. If you do purchase the kit and have the 2015 macbook be prepared to have a PH00 on hand if the Y00 screwdriver tip doesn’t fit (step 14) or the ability to run to the store real quick. Thumbs up to the writer of the guide! Thanks! Saved me a good amount of money with excellent DIY instructions.

Brian Betka - Yanıt

Thank you very much, excellent instructions. My issue is that, after completion, the Macbook (early 2015) neither starts / wakes up automatically from the lid opening action, nor does the keyboard or trackpad cause any input whatsoever. I have double-checked all 4 connections of the ZIF connectors/cables as mentioned by you in the earlier answer to a comment. Could there be another bigger issue? The display displays everything correctly as it was before the battery replacement…

Andreas Stargard - Yanıt

Hello! The new battery didnt charge, the battery status is still Replace now like on the old battery! Any help please

Vladimir - Yanıt

Thanks for this, I will start replacing the battery but not sure the issue come from it. I managed 2 days ago booting the laptop up but now when it is boot up only the track pad respons ( i can fell the haptic return ) . Any Ideas?

Gigi - Yanıt

Excellent instructions on the battery replacement for a battery that had failed and reporting service battery after 530 cycles, a big thanks to the author. After completing them the MACBOOK worked OK and then I started to get intermittent problems with the power button and the system bringing the shutdown dialogue without pressing the power button. On closer examination and second removal of the trackpad IPD flex ribbon cable (which also routes keyboard signals to the logic board) the cable came apart at the fold half way along the cable. This cable is very fragile and as mentioned in step 7 you need to be very careful on handling them. In my case I think the cable was fatigued or mechanically damaged where the fold was during manufacture . A replacement cable has been installed and the laptop now works ok.

I have also posted this comment on the trackpad repair fixit.

Mark Timms - Yanıt

I was able to replace my battery with the help of this website and my computer is working like a champ! Thank you so much!

tifinnie05 - Yanıt

Even though I had the screwdrivers necessary for this project, I purchased the entire battery replacement kit which made everything a breeze. Make sure to also have a box of ziplock bags and a sharpie so that you can keep all of the screws organized. And some painters tape to keep the opened laptop held in-place to a 90-degree surface while you’re working on the ribbon removal. For the 90-degree surface, I used another opened MacBook… but a wall would work also. It definitely helped to read the comments, particularly when it came to the “tri-point screw” removal. For me it was simply a Phillips screw. The one frustrating part of this process was removing the Phillips screw that held the USB C connector in place. It was necessary to take a piece of high-grit sandpaper to the screw that was provided in the kit, because the tip was far too pointy for the small screw. After that, everything went smoothly.

darren floyd - Yanıt

Hardest point for me was not having the exact tri-point screwdriver

(it’s one thing I fault Apple on, as it was unnecessary to have two types of screw on one cable).

I used standard Lighter Fluid (easily available in the UK) to remove the batteries, which was far less trouble than I thought it would be. ( I’ve used it before to remove sticky label residue, so, figured it would work).

Really useful guide, thanks for the tip on the 5w (5V - 1A) iPhone charger. Everything appears to be working!

Stuart - Yanıt

Great instructions, I had two issues step 14 which was the removal of the 3.5 mm screw but eventually managed to remove it. Second, (user error) the Zif connector must have had some dirt or something because once everything was re-assembled the keyboard and trackpad did not work. I cleaned the connector, double-checked all the other cables and the issue was resolved. Other than these two items, make sure to follow step by step.

Giuseppe Greco - Yanıt

Connected to 5w charger and I don’t get the chime and the battery icon how long do I need to leave it .cheers

Ian Bentley - Yanıt

All Sorted lose connection

Ian Bentley - Yanıt

Excellent instructions, and easy to follow with great pictures that make everything crystal clear. I purchased the replacement kit and had absolutely everything I needed to complete the repair in less than 2 hours. Works as advertised. I had to reset PRAM to get the battery to start charging.

Jack McHenry - Yanıt

Hello

I have changed my battery with success but I can’t have my camera any more.

Any idea.

CharlyC - Yanıt

Work like a charm after the battery is replaced. The removal of the adhesive takes hours but Isopropyl alcohol comes to the rescue :-)

chiew lee - Yanıt

Would it be easier to just get a new bottom case w/ battery pre-installed?

Bryan Terry - Yanıt

I tried all the steps and replaced the battery. However, I used the computer charger to plug in the computer. The computer gave the chime sound but nothing came on. No apple logo. I can hear the wire connection but when I press the power button nothing happens.

Emmanuel Bhatti - Yanıt

Do you know why my new battery is not charging and how to fix it?

I have installed a new battery, then first connected with a 5 watt iPhone charger. Subsequently, charged it with my MacBook charger to 100%. The charger was working normally. For calibration I drained the battery by normal usage until the Mac fell asleep. Five hours later I connected the charger, nothing happens. When I push the power button, the low battery symbol is shown with the symbol I should charge.

Frankmac - Yanıt

My second new battery is having exact the same problem. After battery drainage, when the 5 watt iPhone charger is connected, the battery led on the motherboard is on. As soon as I remove the 5 watt iPhone charger, the led turns off. When I connect my regular MacBook charger, the led does not turn on.

Frankmac -

It’s normal for the machine not to boot up right away after a deep drain on the battery. Plug the charger in and leave it for 30-60 minutes, then try turning it on again. The battery charge symbol on the screen is not normally an indication that anything is wrong with the battery; it just means there isn’t enough charge in reserve for the system to safely boot up quite yet. Just give it a little time.

Jeff Suovanen -

Thank you for your reply Jeff. The 5 W iPhone charger and regular MacBook charger have been plugged in for several hours. When I try to boot it afterwards, nothing happens. In the beginning the battery charge symbol was there, later it was not (probably because the battery was fully drained). Is there another explanation why the battery is not charging? I have ordered a second new battery.

Frankmac -

I followed the instructions and everything works but the audio. I’m pretty excited that it’s working and I’ll go back in and tighten some things later this week. The headphone jack didn’t work either.

Robin Gunn - Yanıt

Hallo, wie beschrieben ist der Akku eingebaut, wird erkannt, aber leider wird der Mac nicht Strom versorgt. Der Mac schaltet sich ohne externe Stromversorgung ab. Was habe ich falsch gemacht?

Marcus Stiller - Yanıt

Versuchen Sie, die SMC zurückzusetzen

Daniel Philips - Yanıt

I did every step and I replaced the battery but now my MacBook doesn’t start, she only chimes, the chime cuts when almost finishing and then nothing, I don’t get a charging screen. The led inside tells me there’s power but I don’t know what to do now.

MRZO Gaming - Yanıt

I disconnected the battery two times and nothing changes!

MRZO Gaming - Yanıt

If you are technically oriented, this is a good guide to replace a 2015 MacBook battery. I did this work myself after reading the how-to. Delegating to an Apple repair person seemed fraught with too many places to mess up. Apple doesn’t have a good track record of owning up to mistakes.

Make sure to read the comments. There are a couple of issues in the how-to description that can lead to a bad outcome. Overall, it’s a good how-to guide.

For me, steps 15 and 22 were critical. Read the comments. If after replacement power doesn’t come on, it could be step 15 during re-assembly. Not easy to diagnose because damaging the logic board (despite following instructions and precautions) is always a possibility. If power comes on but the screen remains black, check step 22.

Most of the steps involve seating connectors into sockets for which there is no simple correctness check. Following the instructions carefully will help prevent damaging the laptop. And you can retrace the steps to debug problems.

Ki Park - Yanıt

Great instructions and photos. I would emphasize the delicate ribbon cables don’t like to be twisted. I was almost completely finished reassembling, when I over twisted the trackpad ribbon cable and it broke into three pieces. A quick order and I had the replacement in a couple days. The final battery replacement worked perfectly. Thanks for the great guides!

Chris - Yanıt

Make sure you get a PH000 screwdriver and you dont need any extra tape, comes pre applied!

Lane Hayes - Yanıt

Followed guide step by step and it worked perfectly. For those with the 2015 model and the 5v charger don’t panic if you don’t get a tone or battery icon after fifteen minutes. Mine took nearly 45 to boot up. Be patient before you think of tearing it apart and having another go. Great guide!

kevin mauthe - Yanıt

Changing my Macbook battery by myself was probably the one of most stressful things I’ve ever attempted, but the instructions were very clear, and the part kit was great. One problem on step 14 (It’s not a tri point but a philips head), however I thankfully had one small enough in my garage. Also struggled a little with the adhesive on the cable in step 21. I think the idea is to separate the cable from the adhesive, or separate the cable and adhesive tape from the case? Also, when calibrating the battery, it’s turn on with the low voltage, then switch to the normal voltage to charge. I was worried it wasn’t charging, then realized I needed to change the voltage back to normal, after powering it on.

Thank you for this great resource and service. Hopefully many more people will be inspired to repair their devices, and not continue to trash the planet.

Paul Campbell - Yanıt

anyone else having an issue where they need to keep opening the laptop and resetting the battery? i only just installed it the other day it was working fine for a couple days and then it’s started playing up. after reboots it won’t start up properly either i have to give it it’s time (a good hour or two) and then it might decide to switch ON or the best way it so open it up press the little button to “turn off the battery” and then just put it back together and powers up straight away. super strange

Albert - Yanıt

es necesario cargarlo con que tipo de cargador de iPhone , podría mandar una foto porque el cuadrado es usb a lightining , otras marcas tienen cable de usb a entrada usb C .

Jiri Ramos - Yanıt

Chime, chime, chime and nothing else… no low battery light nothing and it’s about a half chime. I have tried a few time in the last few days unplugging and plugging it back in. The chime stops after a while then starts up again. I painstakingly followed the removal and replacement directions and now the computer will not fire up with the iPhone charger as directed. With my old, completely dead battery it would at least start up before if I kept the computer plugged in. It is a 2015 model.

Has anyone received any answers beside there may have been a problem with the install? “If the MacBook fails to power on after 15 minutes, there may be an issue with your repair.”

Is there another procedure to follow?

Help me please… thanks

Mike A - Yanıt

I followed this guide and it worked perfectly, except for one thing - I had no audio. I took the whole thing back apart, checked all the connections, put it back together…still no luck.

I reset the PRAM and the SMC, with still no luck. I figured I must have damaged one of the cables, so I ordered replacement parts, and prepared to return it to the client. But before I did that, I wanted to make sure I exercised the battery, as the card that I received with the battery from iFixit advised. So I charged it to 100%, turned off all the battery management and played YouTube videos all night to run it all the way down.

The next morning, it was dead as a doorknob. So I charged it for about 5 minutes, pressed the power button and all the sudden it was working!

Wyandotte Duplexes - Yanıt

How long should the iPhone charger be hooked up before switching to the MacBook charger?

Thomas Schultz - Yanıt

This step might be what you’re looking for!

Carsten Frauenheim -

Ottima guida, dettaglio e qualità delle immagini perfetto. Grazie

Paolo Tardocchi - Yanıt

I just successfully completed this battery replacement on a 2015 MacBook that I picked up on eBay for a song (the original battery had 1,068 charge cycles on it and it wouldn’t hold a charge anymore). The instructions are easy to follow, and the hardest part for me was getting the new battery aligned just right to fit the terraced parts of the case before the adhesive made it impossible to shift. To anyone else who attempts this repair, don’t overlook the instruction to plug in the MacBook to a 5-watt charger before powering up the first time. I was thankful to be told of this quirk in these machines. Many thanks to the author for this writeup!

John Jarvis - Yanıt

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