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Use this guide to replace the logic board in your Retina MacBook 2016.

    • Before proceeding, unplug and power down your MacBook. Close the display and lay it on a soft surface, top-side down.

    • Remove the following eight screws securing the lower case:

    • Two 1.8 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Four 2.9 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Two 6.1 mm P5 Pentalobe screws

    • Note the orientation of the screws as you remove them—they need to be reinstalled at a slight angle.

    • Throughout this repair, keep track of each screw and make sure it goes back exactly where it came from to avoid damaging your device.

    IMPORTANT. You’re not removing the bottom, yet. This step is solely to separate the panel from its clips, permitting inside access.

    Chris Leeds - Yanıt

    The screws go in tangent to the curve of the case. If you aren’t used to handling small hardware try turning the screw counterclockwise while you feel for the hole until you feel it drop, that means the threads have aligned. It takes only light finger torque when they are threaded correctly

    abscate - Yanıt

  1. Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 2, image 1 of 3 Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 2, image 2 of 3 Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 2, image 3 of 3
    • Wedge your fingers between the upper case and the lower case, starting from the rear of the MacBook between the hinges.

    • Lift the lower case only slightly to avoid damaging the cables that connect the lower case to the upper case.

    • Keeping a firm grip, lift steadily until the lower case separates slightly from the upper case.

    • You may experience a lot of resistance when lifting the lower case. If necessary, slide an opening pick or other ESD-safe pry tool down the side edges of the lower case to pop the two hidden retaining clips free.

    • During reassembly, to re-engage the clips, press firmly near both side edges of the lower case (near where the pick is inserted in the third image) until you hear the clips snap into place.

  2. Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 3, image 1 of 1
    • While holding the lower case in place, carefully flip the MacBook over so the Apple logo faces up.

  3. Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 4, image 1 of 2 Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 4, image 2 of 2
    • Lift the upper case and display together from the front edge and raise it to about a 45˚ angle.

    • It may be helpful to prop the MacBook open in this position for the next step.

  4. Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 5, image 1 of 3 Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 5, image 2 of 3 Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 5, image 3 of 3
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to press and hold the small gold 'battery disconnect' button.

    • If the power LED is lit up, continue holding the button until the LED goes dark, and then release. This may take up to 10 seconds.

    • If the LED does not light, release the button after 5-10 seconds. Press and hold it again for 5-10 seconds, and release. Finally, press and hold it a third time for 5-10 seconds, and release.

    • This step ensures the MacBook is fully powered down and safe to work on.

    cannot turn on the led after replacing the new screen, even after following the turn on instructions upper…

    Laurent Pierre - Yanıt

    on reassembly, I had to plug my laptop in to reactivate the LED light

    aaron_vandyke2003 - Yanıt

    Does anyone know how to turn it back on..? I plugged the laptop in and saw the LED Light, but it won’t turn on

    mmcsorley - Yanıt

    After reassembly I could not restart my MacBook using the power button or after SMC reset (shift-ctrl-option-pwr). I had to connect my MacBook to its charging cable to get the battery LED to re-illuminate. After that it was all normal.

    Richard Lovatt - Yanıt

    It took a few minutes on the power adapter for my computer to turn on after it was reassembled.

    Luk Chl - Yanıt

    mine doesnt turn on w anything, i forgot to click the buton to disconnect :_/

    cristian.campuzano - Yanıt

    Same issue as above peeps. Followed ifixit directions verbatim and wasn't getting anything after screwing everything back in. Plugged in original 45W power block and waited, after few minutes battery LED came on and a min. or two after that, was able to get screen to turn on. Hope this helps somebody else.

    Brandon Elliott - Yanıt

    May I ask how to get screen to turn on. I cannot get it work..

    Xiubo Zhang - Yanıt

    There needs to be mention of procedure for getting the repaired MacBook to power up again after the repair is completed.

    I also am running into the issue described by others. MB will not come on again, even after being plugged into power and performing an SMC reset.

    Kinda stuck….

    Carlos Perez - Yanıt

    Hi, I tried everything and my MacBook will not start up after replacing the bottom case with a battery installed. I decided to put back on the old case with the battery that needs servicing and it still will not power on. I am fairly experienced taking apart laptops I was an Apple service tech for 15 years. this has me baffalled. Any hints BTY the logic board does not show any power coming from the AC charger the power LED is not lit up

    eestern - Yanıt

    I had trouble with this as well. What worked for me is to plug in power using the stock 29W USB C power brick that originally came with this Macbook. Trying other, lower powered, power adapters did not work. Use this advice with caution as there are multiple (i.e substantiated) comments that indicate that first power up should only be with a 5W adapter! So perhaps try this strict sequence: try with a 5W adapter, then and only then try with the 29W adapter. Or even slightly better, if everything else has completely failed, only then try full power 29W adapter.

    LexxOne - Yanıt

    How long did you wait to get it power back on? I replaced my logic board and tried to connect the power charger but it doesnt still turn on.

    Herb -

  5. Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 6, image 1 of 1
    • Close the MacBook and carefully flip it upside-down.

  6. Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 7, image 1 of 1
    • Lifting from the front edge, open the lower case to an angle of about 45°.

    • Take care not to damage the ribbon cables that still attach the lower case to the MacBook.

  7. Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 8, image 1 of 2 Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 8, image 2 of 2
    • Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the trackpad cable ZIF connector.

    Where can I find a replacement cable?

    John Comix - Yanıt

  8. Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 9, image 1 of 3 Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 9, image 2 of 3 Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 9, image 3 of 3
    • Use a spudger to carefully flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad cable ZIF connector.

    The small retainer flips up about 90 degrees from locked position

    abscate - Yanıt

    The keyboard and trackpad don't work after the repair, what can I do? They don't even show up in System Report.

    bredelet - Yanıt

    I found that the connector was not pushed enough in. Works now.

    bredelet -

  9. Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 10, image 1 of 2 Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 10, image 2 of 2
    • Disconnect the trackpad ribbon cable from the trackpad by pulling it gently through its slot in the frame.

  10. Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 11, image 1 of 3 Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 11, image 2 of 3 Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 11, image 3 of 3
    • Carefully close the MacBook and flip it over once again, so that the Apple logo faces up.

    • Lifting from the front edge, raise the upper case/display assembly to about a 90° angle, and prop it up against something sturdy so you don't have to hold it.

    • Add a piece of tape near the track pad to secure the upper case and prevent accidental movement.

    • It's possible to open the MacBook all the way and lay both sides down flat, but this may damage the flex cables and is not recommended.

  11. Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 12, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the single 2.9 mm T5 Torx screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

    From my experience it’s important to carefully press and hold the small button above left of the Battery Discharge label. Use a plastic spudger or finger tip. The illuminated yellow LED to the right will go off. I believe this discharges remaining electricity from logic board protecting it during repair.

    * I cannot find any documentation to support this, but I have damaged boards by not including this step.

    Chris Leeds - Yanıt

    What is with the all plastic end of this cable that appears to just be glued right on top of its connector?

    Does the new one just stick back right on top?

    (In this photo it is the bottom side of the cable below the white water indicator sticker)

    Elizabeth Erkelens - Yanıt

    • As an added precaution, you may physically disconnect the battery by inserting a battery isolation pick between the logic board and the battery connector.

    What happen if you don’t disconnect the battery? I didn’t and I saw smoke coming out when I connected the pad flex cable and the computer still started up

    DSANTIAGOSOY - Yanıt

    If you don’t disconnect the battery you might accidentally short something on the logic board since power is still running through everything while you’re working on it. You can complete the repair without disconnecting the battery, but you risk accidentally breaking your logic board. It’s much safer to keep the battery disconnected while you’re working.

    Adam O'Camb -

  12. Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement, USB-C and Audio Jack Disconnect: step 14, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the two screws securing the USB-C port cable bracket:

    • 1.1 mm Phillips #00 screw

    • 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw

    I’m at this point and the 1.1 mm Phillips #00 screw won’t budge and now I fear it could be stripped? Now what???

    Y'vonne Feeney - Yanıt

    You could try to cover the tip of your screwdriver with a thin rubber glove to improve the grip on the screw while applying a little more downward force for the initial jolt. That might loosen the screw.

    Tobias Isakeit -

    The USB-C ribbon cable breaks very easily when being attached. Any particular tricks for ensuring that it won’t snap somewhere while being installed?

    bfg737 - Yanıt

    With my iFixit screwdriver kit, these were Philips #000, not #00.

    Paul Nishikawa - Yanıt

    This was #000 for me as well

    Adam Hupp - Yanıt

  13. Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 15, image 1 of 2 Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 15, image 2 of 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the USB-C port cable bracket by prying it straight up from the logic board.

    • To reconnect this cable, first line up the metal bracket over the screw holes, then press down on the middle of the bracket. Make sure it's aligned correctly, or you may damage the connector.

    At re-assembling, when you reconnect this cable, pressing centre of metal plat is extremely important. You should feel tiny click when it connected properly. I encountered unrecognised external HDD and external monitor through USB-C even though charging in/out was OK, i.e failure of data transmission. I needed to re-open the back cover and pressed the metal plate again, then USB-C connection worked properly.

    Aki Mochi - Yanıt

  14. Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 16, image 1 of 2 Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 16, image 2 of 2
    • Use a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the audio jack board cable ZIF connector.

  15. Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 17, image 1 of 1
    • Disconnect the audio jack board ribbon cable by pulling it straight back out of the ZIF connector.

    • During reassembly, orient the ribbon cable so that the side with the white stripe faces you, as shown.

    • At this point it is possible to open the macbook all the way and to lay it flat on a table without causing any damage to the flex cables.

    Make sure at reassembly that you insert the ribbon cable in to the jack board fully. It seems to take an extra push. The white line should disappear when it is seated properly. I didn’t get it in all the way by a fraction of a mm and had no sound (internal speakers weren’t even recognized). Went back and seated the cable fully and sound was back.

    Timothy Dinkelman - Yanıt

  16. Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement, Lower Case Assembly Removal: step 18, image 1 of 2 Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement, Lower Case Assembly Removal: step 18, image 2 of 2
    • Use tweezers to peel back the tape covering the display cable connector.

    I won’t have my daughter’s MacBook with its banana encrusted USB-C port until she returns home during spring break — just doing some homework before then. But if the case can lie flat after the audio board ZIF cable is detached, why do you need to detach the display cable connector (Steps 19-24)? It seems that you could jump straight to Step 25 to replace the USB-C port and avoid those steps.

    John Conklin - Yanıt

    Hi John, disconnecting the display cable is not necessary, but is recommended to avoid accidental damage to the cable during the rest of the procedure. If you feel confident in the safety of the cable then you can skip ahead. Good luck with the repair!

    Adam O'Camb -

    I skipped ahead to step 25 successfully by making a secure stand for the display and being careful to not strain cables. If you are decently motor skilled this saves you 15 minutes or so. Not recommended if you live with cats who love little screws to chase

    abscate - Yanıt

  17. Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 19, image 1 of 2 Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 19, image 2 of 2
    • It's possible the metal retaining flap on the display cable connector may flip open, remaining stuck to the tape.

    • If so, use the flat end of a spudger to hold down the retaining flap while peeling the tape away with the tweezers.

  18. Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 20, image 1 of 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to flip open the retaining flap on the display cable connector.

    • Try to keep it clear of the tape, or it may re-adhere and make cable removal difficult.

    I found it helpful to stick one of the triangular picks in between the table and the retaining flap to keep them separated.

    Kofi Kantanka - Yanıt

    • Carefully slide the flat end of a spudger underneath the display cable to separate the adhesive holding it to the lower case.

    • Take care not to damage the cable. If the adhesive is very strong, heat the case directly beneath the cable with an iOpener to soften the adhesive, and then try again.

    Great, another new fragile display cable to deal with. Thanks Apple.

    maccentric - Yanıt

  19. Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 22, image 1 of 1
    • Disconnect the display cable by gently pulling it straight out of its connector.

    • Immediately close the retaining flap.

    • The flap must remain closed when the cable is reinserted during reassembly. Line up the cable with the gold contacts facing down, and gently slide it into the closed connector. Take care not to crimp or damage the cable. When fully inserted, the indentations on the sides should not be visible.

    I’m pretty sure I understand the instructions here, but I had to think about it a little longer because “… must remain closed when the cable is reinserted during reassembly …” was not clear to me right away. The retaining flap I discovered, is super delicate, and hence my paranoia, so I wanted to point this out in case anyone else felt like me: ''''Is it correct to assume that your instructions could be interpreted as:

    “After disconnecting the cable, close the retaining flap for now to avoid damaging it. When reinstalling the cable, flip up the retaining flap once again, realign and slide the cable with gold contacts facing down.”

    I bent the USB-C corner of the lower case from a short drop onto laminate flooring, so in I went to shape it so the edge wouldn’t snag or scratch things. I am typing on my MacBook that received the body work.

    Thank you for your guidance!

    John Torquido - Yanıt

    For @seriouslyjohn and anyone else who might be wondering: “the flap must remain closed when the cable is reinserted” means keep it closed. Do not reopen the flap to insert the cable; just insert it carefully while leaving the flap closed. I know it probably runs counter to the procedure you’re used to, but Apple’s documentation is very clear on this, and I have to think it’s for a reason. My advice is to follow the instructions as written and don’t try to reinterpret them ;) Congrats on a successful repair!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Oops! I most definitely did NOT reinsert the cable into a closed connector. We can only wonder why Apple instructed this step to be counter-intuitive. I’ll pay closer attention to any weirdness that may arise, but the MacBook has been traveling and performing as it should; I’m going to avoid reopening the case, as easy as it is, until I have a good reason to do so. Thank you for replying and updating the guide!

    John Torquido - Yanıt

    I would argue that you should NOT close the retaining flap. I followed the directions to the letter, and when I started up the MacBook, the display did not register since the I wasn’t able to reseed the cable fully without worrying about tearing the cable. I did hear the computer charging and saw that the keyboard lit up, so I knew the MacBook was working besides the display. I looked up another video on Youtube that left the retaining flap open when reinstalling, so I took apart the Macbook again and tried it that way, and IT WORKED! The cable wasn’t fully reseated with the retainer open and I’m not sure if that was my fault or not, but with the retainer flap open, it was easier to see that. My 2 cents. Good luck everyone!

    Sulmo Kim - Yanıt

    I initially tried inserting the cable with the retaining flap closed (as described), however after completing reassembly the MacBook could be heard to start but without any display action (no backlight, no graphics - also tried resetting the SMC). Being suspicious of this step based on the comments above, I tried re-inserting the cable with the retaining flap open before subsequently closing the flap. It may have just been my perception but insertion with the retaining flap open certainly appeared to result in a more robust mating of cable and connector. After reassembly and reset of the SMC I at least saw backlight action although no graphics still. A subsequent boot into to diagnostics mode resulted in the graphics coming to life.

    Maybe my re-insertion while the retaining flap was closed was not quite correct (although I was certainly trying to be careful), but my experience was that success was achieved making the cable insertion while the retaining flap was open.

    Paul Richards - Yanıt

  20. Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 23, image 1 of 1
    • Separate the upper case assembly from the lower case assembly.

  21. Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement, Logic Board: step 24, image 1 of 3 Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement, Logic Board: step 24, image 2 of 3 Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement, Logic Board: step 24, image 3 of 3
    • Use tweezers to peel up the tape covering the two ZIF connectors—one for the right speaker cable, and one for the audio jack board cable.

    Removing the logicboard must be safer way, but battery replacement can be accomplished if you skip here to step 32, and omit 36.

    Aki Mochi - Yanıt

  22. Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 25, image 1 of 3 Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 25, image 2 of 3 Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 25, image 3 of 3
    • Use the point of a spudger to flip up both ZIF connector retaining flaps.

  23. Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 26, image 1 of 2 Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 26, image 2 of 2
    • Carefully pull straight back on the two pieces of tape you just peeled up to disconnect the two ribbon cables.

  24. Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 27, image 1 of 2 Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 27, image 2 of 2
    • Use the point of a spudger to peel up the foam pad covering the two antenna connectors.

  25. Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 28, image 1 of 2 Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 28, image 2 of 2
    • Use tweezers to disconnect the first antenna connector by lifting it straight up from its socket.

    • The antenna connectors and sockets are extremely fragile. Be very careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket itself. Do not lift under the cable, or put any unnecessary strain on it.

    The supplied tweezer is no good. You need one with grooves as shown in the picture. When re-inserting the antenna connectors, make sure that they are seated properly before pushing down. If you have magnifying equipment, use that to get visual confirmation. I used tactile feedback from my fingers to discern proper alignment. Try not to force it.

    Ki Park - Yanıt

    I used the tweezers provided by iFixit. I struggled with both connectors and finally managed to disconnect both, but when I came back to reconnect them, I realized that both connectors on the logic board were loose. Long story short, it turns out that my little exciting adventure changing the battery cost me $530 to send it for repair at Apple Care. I am quite good at troubleshooting Mac and used to work for Apple for many years. This one step is more dangerous than it seems, because you can end up like me, without wifi on your mac. Honestly, for those who think they can do it, think twice. You can thank me later…

    Arthur Liegeois - Yanıt

    For me this step was the only point where I had a bit of trouble. The supplied tweezers were not the best for disconnecting the antenna connectors as Ki Park points out already. In my case the outer ring of one of the connectors on the logic board bended slightly. It bended back in place during assembly and the wifi works as normal again after the repair. It is very tricky though, really be careful in this step and use other tools as necessary.

    Arie Machgeels van Ziel - Yanıt

    BY FAR THE MOST DANGEROUS PART OF THE JOB!. I broked one connector and spent an hour with high powered magnifiers to try a repair. Wasted an hour on this. Id suggest leaving the logic board in place if possible

    Crisis Guy - Yanıt

    I had no problem with this. The key is to come toward the connectors from the opposite direction from that shown in the photo. Easier to grip the connector.

    david - Yanıt

    I broke one. Looking back, it may have been safer to detach the motherboard from the case before disconnecting the antenna, as it allows more angles to access them. 😢

    bredelet - Yanıt

  26. Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 29, image 1 of 2 Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 29, image 2 of 2
    • Use tweezers to disconnect the second antenna connector by lifting it straight up from its socket.

    • The antenna connectors and sockets are extremely fragile. Be very careful to lift only on the connector, and not on the socket itself. Do not lift under the cable, or put any unnecessary strain on it.

    Broke a connector. Now what?

    chrisadams - Yanıt

  27. Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 30, image 1 of 2 Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 30, image 2 of 2
    • Use a spudger to disconnect the left speaker cable connector by prying it straight up from the logic board.

  28. Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 31, image 1 of 2 Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 31, image 2 of 2
    • Use a spudger to flip up the retaining flap on the trackpad cable ZIF connector.

  29. Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 32, image 1 of 1
    • Disconnect the trackpad cable from the logic board by gently pulling it straight out of its connector.

    Once the logic board has been replaced, when following these instructions in the reverse order it should be pointed out that the all the flaps are flipped down. A distracted person might try to force in the flat connector before realising that he has to flip up the flap of the new logic board.

    Davide Dante - Yanıt

  30. Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 33, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the single 3.5 mm T5 Torx screw securing the logic board to the lower case.

  31. Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 34, image 1 of 3 Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 34, image 2 of 3 Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 34, image 3 of 3
    • Flip up the front edge of the logic board.

    • Handle the logic board only by its edges.

    • Lift and detach the EMI tape securing the logic board to the lower case.

    • Warming the tape with a hair dryer or iOpener makes it easier to detach.

    • Reattach the tape securely during reassembly.

    “Reattach the tape securely during reassembly.”

    In my case the tape did not stick properly to the lower case anymore and also came a bit loose from the logic board. Nonetheless my macbook works fine after the repair, so I'm not sure how important the EMI tape is. If I experience problems in the future I might open the macbook up again and check the tape and perhaps reattach it better with some new glue. There is probably special glue needed, so I'll look into that when it becomes an issue.

    Arie Machgeels van Ziel - Yanıt

  32. Retina MacBook 2016 Logic Board Replacement: step 35, image 1 of 1
    • Remove the logic board.

    If you are replacing the logic board once the machine has been rebuild the 2015 model has to have a 5W power adapter plugged into the machine first before the full 29W power supply otherwise there is a risk of damaging the logic board. Once the power is supplied the battery disconnect LED will switch on and once this has occurred you can remove the 5W and supply the machine with the full 29W power adapter.

    Aaron Dalziel - Yanıt

    While it’s true that the internal documentation specifies this for a 2015, after frying 2 motherboards with a normal charger, I spoke with the engineers and they told me that this also applies to 2016 and 2017 macbook main logic boards. I say- It can’t hurt to try to wake them up with a 5 watt charger first! Please take 5 minutes to save your motherboard.

    Noah -

Sonuç

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

14 farklı kişi bu kılavuzu tamamladı.

Adam O'Camb

Üyelik tarihi: 11-04-2015

163.302 İtibar

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5 Yorum

Following this guide for repair will likely kill your MacBook… just saying.

Best to visit an Apple Authorised Service Provider.

DeepFocus ltd - Yanıt

Well, hence my MacBook Pro is dead, and a repair would cost about 800€, I think I’ll try. If it fails, I just buy a used one for about the same money.

Sebastian Urbanneck - Yanıt

The easiest error to make when working on this motherboard if applying full voltage after re-assembly. According to the big A, the motherboard on these Macbooks need to be “woken up” with a 5 watt (phone size) charger. Applying the normal 29 watts may render your system unusable.

Noah - Yanıt

Hello Noah,

It seems your remark is only valid for the 2015 and not the 2016 edition.

David -

While it’s true that the internal documentation specifies this for a 2015, after frying 2 motherboards with a normal charger, I spoke with the engineers and they told me that this also applies to 2016 and 2017 macbook main logic boards. I say- It can’t hurt to try to wake them up with a 5 watt charger first! Please take 5 minutes to save your motherboard.

Noah -

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