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The Nintendo Switch comes with two Joy-Con controllers. This guide will show you how to replace the joystick of the right Joy-Con. The procedure for repairing the left Joy-Con is different, so be sure to follow the correct set of instructions for your controller.

Please note that this repair does not have the same steps as the left Joy-Con. If you are looking to replace the left Joystick, please follow my other guide with the specific details.

    • Remove the four tri-point Y00 screws from the back panel of the Joy-Con.

    • These screws are each 6.2 mm long, but it's still a good idea to keep them organized and make sure they go back in their proper holes!

    I found it easier to remove the rubber cover over the joystick before changing it, and to remove it on the replacement before installing it. So that would be step 1 for me next time.

    kmcrawford111 - Yanıt

    Si tienes cuidado no hay que desconectar nada. Sólo el cable del joystick, evidentemente, todos los demás se pueden dejar conectados, sobre todo el de la batería para que te ayude a probar si todo funciona antes de cerrar y atornillar todo de nuevo.

    Te ahorras 15 minutos y muchas posibilidades de romper cosas.

    Víctor SLB - Yanıt

  1. Insert an opening pick under the lower side of the back panel (opposite the R and ZR buttons). Slide the flat edge of an opening pick up the side of the Joy-Con. Be careful not to slide the opening pick too far inside the Joy-Con. This may damage the inner components. The back panel has shallow interference-fit tabs on the side opposite the charging rail. These  loosen fairly easily, so not much pressure is needed.
    • Insert an opening pick under the lower side of the back panel (opposite the R and ZR buttons).

    • Slide the flat edge of an opening pick up the side of the Joy-Con.

    • Be careful not to slide the opening pick too far inside the Joy-Con. This may damage the inner components. The back panel has shallow interference-fit tabs on the side opposite the charging rail. These loosen fairly easily, so not much pressure is needed.

  2. Open the the Joy-Con like a book, with the charging rail facing away from you. Don’t try to fully remove the back panel yet. There are still two cables connecting the charging rail to the motherboard.
    • Open the the Joy-Con like a book, with the charging rail facing away from you.

    • Don’t try to fully remove the back panel yet. There are still two cables connecting the charging rail to the motherboard.

  3. Use a spudger to gently pry the battery connector from its socket on the motherboard. This will keep the Joy-Con from powering on during the repair. Be extremely careful while you pry up the battery connector. If it does not come up easily, try gently pulling on the wires to disconnect it.
    • Use a spudger to gently pry the battery connector from its socket on the motherboard. This will keep the Joy-Con from powering on during the repair.

    • Be extremely careful while you pry up the battery connector. If it does not come up easily, try gently pulling on the wires to disconnect it.

    Could've done with a narrower spudger for this and on the way back

    James - Yanıt

    The plug is difficult to get a spudger under and leads to a lot of failed attempts where something could be damaged. I found it comes apart easier if you gently pull the wires with tweezers.

    Robert L - Yanıt

    Agree. The spudger is too wide for this task. This guide needs to get update with his better approach.

    Nick Cope -

    I damaged this connector while trying to remove by pulling on the wires as suggested. The plastic over the wires broke out. I was able to “repair” it by carefully placing the pins in place without shorting, covering the top (only) of the connector with a little super glue. After curing I placed it over the receptacle as closely as possible with tweezers, and gently pressed in with a pencil eraser tip.

    I like the narrower spudger idea, but have never seen one.

    kmcrawford111 - Yanıt

    Hey, I was wondering if you damaged the part that attaches to the motherboard because I’ve done that and I’m not sure how to fix it?

    Milli3 -

    Hey so when I did this step it turns out I pulled the entire battery connector out not like the wires or the plug in but the entire connector that connects to the motherboard. I was wondering if anyone knew if it was possible for me to fix this or if I’d have to buy yet another set of joycons :(

    Milli3 - Yanıt

    Milli, unfortunately repairing that connector is a tough fix unless you’ve got some microsoldering equipment. :( That said! You shouldn’t need to buy a whole other set of Joy-Cons. What you can do is find a replacement motherboard online, or even a cheap used Joy-Con from ebay and replace your motherboard with that one! I’m sorry about your bad luck, I hope this helps!

    Taylor Dixon -

    I have fcuked my entire connector and ruined it. Never pull the battery connector and just make your mods with the battery attached!! Mind the wires, finish your job quickly, and forget about powering off your joycon during teardown..

    Kelvin Susanto - Yanıt

    Not at all clear from the photo what it is I am pulling off. Need a larger, zoomed-in image.

    danbalzer - Yanıt

    Maybe add a third photo, showing what the socket looks like once the connector is removed.

    danbalzer -

    Click any photo in this guide to zoom in. Here’s the connector photo.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Es ist ein Steckkontakt. Sprich: Wenn du es wieder zusammenbaust, musst du das Kabel von oben reindrücken.

    anonymous 5632 - Yanıt

    Skip this step. It is far too easy to pull off the connector from the motherboard. Ruined the joy of fixing it. There is enough length on the wires to just skip steps 4 (this step), 5, and 6 and jump to 7. It is what it is. I’m mad at myself.

    Fernando Pruneda - Yanıt

  4. The following two steps show the removal of the battery and the coaxial antenna cable from the midframe. These two steps make for a less cluttered repair, but are not essential. If you want, you can leave the battery and the grey coax cable in place here and proceed to step 7. Insert an opening pick between the battery and the Joy-Con housing. Gently pry out the battery, which is lightly taped in place. Be careful not to deform or puncture the battery—it can catch fire or explode if damaged.
    • The following two steps show the removal of the battery and the coaxial antenna cable from the midframe. These two steps make for a less cluttered repair, but are not essential. If you want, you can leave the battery and the grey coax cable in place here and proceed to step 7.

    • Insert an opening pick between the battery and the Joy-Con housing. Gently pry out the battery, which is lightly taped in place.

    • Be careful not to deform or puncture the battery—it can catch fire or explode if damaged.

    I don’t have a pick, just spudgers and blue plastic pry tools. There are gaps on the rail side of the battery where you can very easily get a spudger in and get the battery out.

    Robert L - Yanıt

  5. Before you perform this step, take note of how the antenna cable and its PCB are seated for proper reassembly later. Carefully de-thread the upper half of the grey antenna cable out of the battery cavity.
    • Before you perform this step, take note of how the antenna cable and its PCB are seated for proper reassembly later.

    • Carefully de-thread the upper half of the grey antenna cable out of the battery cavity.

  6. Pry up with the pointy end of a spudger to disconnect the antenna cable's coaxial connector from the motherboard. Remove the grey antenna cable.
    • Pry up with the pointy end of a spudger to disconnect the antenna cable's coaxial connector from the motherboard.

    • Remove the grey antenna cable.

    • During reassembly, reconnect the antenna cable, then make sure it is routed through the battery cavity in the midframe as it was before you took it out.

    The antenna cable is very difficult to reconnect so if possible leave the coaxial connector connected

    Ethan Puente - Yanıt

  7. Remove the three 3.5 mm Phillips #00 screws on midframe.
    • Remove the three 3.5 mm Phillips #00 screws on midframe.

    • Do not attempt to remove the midframe yet. There is a fragile cable that still connects the ZR button on the midframe to the motherboard underneath.

  8. Carefully flip the midframe over and away from the motherboard. Do your best not to stress the short ribbon cable attached to the ZR button during this step.
    • Carefully flip the midframe over and away from the motherboard.

    • Do your best not to stress the short ribbon cable attached to the ZR button during this step.

    At this stage, the R button pops off very easily. Almost inevitable. And when it does, you’ll probably lose the spring. Better to carefully take it off yourself and make sure the spring stays with it.

    Athul Acharya - Yanıt

  9. The ZR button cable is locked in place by a small ZIF connector on the motherboard. Use tweezers or a spudger to flip up the ZIF connector lock. Use tweezers to gently pull the ZR button flex cable out of the ZIF connector socket. The midframe is now disconnected and can be removed. The ZR button cable in this Joy-Con is short and can be tricky to reconnect.  If you are worried about not being able to reconnect it, you can skip this step and leave it connected.
    • The ZR button cable is locked in place by a small ZIF connector on the motherboard. Use tweezers or a spudger to flip up the ZIF connector lock.

    • Use tweezers to gently pull the ZR button flex cable out of the ZIF connector socket. The midframe is now disconnected and can be removed.

    • The ZR button cable in this Joy-Con is short and can be tricky to reconnect. If you are worried about not being able to reconnect it, you can skip this step and leave it connected.

    • If you choose to leave the cable connected, be careful. Work slowly and do your best to keep the midframe from moving around as you perform the last few steps to avoid damaging the cable.

    Putting this back together was the hardest step

    James - Yanıt

    Who knows an easy way to put this back in?

    Mr Krabs - Yanıt

    My children learned to drive, went to college, got married and had children, by the time I got this to reconnect!

    I used the tweezers to carefully grab the end and slide it in. Make sure the lock is up because without the ribbon it falls down really easy.

    The left joy con is easy peasy compared to this one.

    Bethany Shillet - Yanıt

    This is the worst step

    Devan Miller - Yanıt

    I think this step should warrant upgrading this from Moderate… I can’t understand why Nintendo decided to put SOO much slack on the left controller and then absolutely no slack on the right…

    errolsayre - Yanıt

    I wasn’t remotely prepared for how much more difficult this was compared to the left Joy-Con. I ended up ruining the entire unit trying to reinsert the ZR cable into the zif connector.

    Andrew Ellis - Yanıt

    I found this to be easier than the left joycon, maybe because I did the right joycon first. The cable is very rigid, so I just held the two parts of the joycon together so that the cable was already lined up with the connector. From there, you can make the final adjustment with tweezers, and the cable won’t fight you as much in the process.

    Charlie Lewis - Yanıt

    maybe I’m being an idiot, but why does this have to be removed? I can get to the stick’s screws etc, and remove it and nothing seems to be in the way, thus making this step seem unnecessary. It was a little tricky to unscrew the joystick once the screws started to loosen, but I just propped the joycon up on my finger. There’s a risk to doing it this way, but then there’s a risk doing it either way, and judging from comments above about how awkward this is, maybe leaving it is best.

    N Carter - Yanıt

    You’re definitely not being an idiot! It doesn’t technically need to be removed. :) That cable is so fragile though that the risk of leaving it connected with the midframe dangling awkwardly (as we leave it in step 9) seemed greater than the annoyance of disconnecting and reconnecting it. Definitely tricky and risky either way you slice it, though! Either way is a viable option. I’ll add a note to the step!

    Taylor Dixon -

    I think having a clamper that can hold the motherboard and the rest of the body really would help. I didn’t have anything that I could use but I propped it up with two jar lids so that the joystick would not make the whole thing wobble. I grabbed the midframe with one hand and used tweezers in the other hand to guide it in and close it.

    Here’s a picture: https://i.imgur.com/fSEIBqE.jpg

    My R button came off but I put it in before I screwed the midframe in place.

    I hope it helps.

    Kshitij Parajuli - Yanıt

    This step should say in CAPITALS at the start that this is not strictly necessary, because the connector between the 2 boards is practically impossible to reconnect

    mcsmith1981 - Yanıt

    Wouldn’t agree with people here - getting the ribbon back in is pretty finicky (much easier if you do it flipped over along the side, not like they have it in the photo), but I don’t see how you could get the joystick out and a new one in without moving it so much that you break it (then you’ve wasted the money on the kit and have to buy a whole new unit).

    I however would agree that you don’t need to disconnect the battery or antenna. I pulled the antenna patch out of the midframe and let it dangle, but left the battery in and connected, and it was fine. Much better than removing them but leaving this fragile thing connected.

    Isaac Woods - Yanıt

  10. The joystick cable is also locked into place by a ZIF connector. Use tweezers or a spudger to flip the ZIF lock upward and carefully disconnect the cable. The joystick cable is also locked into place by a ZIF connector. Use tweezers or a spudger to flip the ZIF lock upward and carefully disconnect the cable. The joystick cable is also locked into place by a ZIF connector. Use tweezers or a spudger to flip the ZIF lock upward and carefully disconnect the cable.
    • The joystick cable is also locked into place by a ZIF connector. Use tweezers or a spudger to flip the ZIF lock upward and carefully disconnect the cable.

    Recommend putting a small amount of electrical tape or masking tape on the tweezers to protect the ribbon cable during reinstallation.

    smichaeldavis - Yanıt

  11. Remove the two 3.5 mm Phillips #00 screws from the joystick.
    • Remove the two 3.5 mm Phillips #00 screws from the joystick.

    Also do your best not to bump the “R” button as it my fall out and you might break off the solid state device it activates. My device broke off as I was unaware of my hand placement while holding the controller. I recommend others learn from my mistake and hold the controller by the long edge only.

    Edmund Cooper - Yanıt

  12. Carefully remove the joystick from its housing. There is a thin black gasket around the hole where the joystick pokes through the Joy-Con. Do your best not to disturb this gasket as you remove the joystick! Once the Joy-Con is fully reassembled, connect it to your Nintendo Switch and calibrate the new joystick. Additionally, you may need to power cycle your Switch by holding down the power button for 10-15 seconds until it turns off, then turning it back on.
    • Carefully remove the joystick from its housing.

    • There is a thin black gasket around the hole where the joystick pokes through the Joy-Con. Do your best not to disturb this gasket as you remove the joystick!

    • Once the Joy-Con is fully reassembled, connect it to your Nintendo Switch and calibrate the new joystick. Additionally, you may need to power cycle your Switch by holding down the power button for 10-15 seconds until it turns off, then turning it back on.

    The first time I tried to re-seat the new joystick, I had very slightly disturbed the black gasket (it ended up laying “on top” of the nearby wires, rather than underneath). This caused my joystick to register very slightly off-center after re-assembly. Once I took it apart again, gently slipped the gasket back into the right place, then the joystick registered perfectly centered. FYI!

    Geoffrey Potvin - Yanıt

    I had the same experience as Geoffrey. My joystick was not able to be fully deflected downwards until I opened it back up and re-seated the gasket with the spudger. After reseating I’m also perfectly centered. Thanks for the tip!

    Truman DeYoung - Yanıt

    Thanks! I had literally the same issue and reading your comments saved me doing this twice!!

    Luis Fernando Mata - Yanıt

Sonuç

To reassemble your device, follow the above steps in reverse order.

Take your e-waste to an R2 or e-Stewards certified recycler.

Repair didn’t go as planned? Check out our Answers community for troubleshooting help.

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A good guide though for the antenna instead of disconnecting the cable it would be easier to simply slide out the plate and wire from the side of the battery tray

Tyler Karabin - Yanıt

Agree with Tyler - no need to disconnect the antenna.

Thanks for the guide!

David K - Yanıt

The antenna and battery don’t need to be disconnected, you can easily move them out of the way.

When reassembling, reconnecting the ribbon cable for the RL button is fiddly, easier if you can avoid disconnecting it as well. Just rotate the plastic battery plate a quarter turn counterclockwise to get it out of the way and access the analog stick.

You can test the controller immediately after seating the joystick to make sure the ribbon cable is properly connected.

Peter Amstutz - Yanıt

In agreement with the others, antenna definitely doesn’t need to be removed. Also noticed that the Y000 bit worked a lot better than the Y00 for the outside screws.

Steve Cazier - Yanıt

Hello I have followed the guide succesfully for the most part, however the joy con doesn’t seem to power up after reconnecting the battery and the anthenna. I even tried swapping the batteries between joy- cons and battery from the right one does work in the left one. The right joy con doesn’t turn on even with the other battery inserted. Any ideas?

kajterman - Yanıt

If you are able to isolate that the battery from being the source of the issue, it unfortunately may be that the battery connector socket has some damage or was shorted. I recommend inspecting that part closely to see if there is any issue and use compressed air in the relevant area.

Cooper -

I think the issue is elsewhere, since I can’t even connect the joy con physically. The other one does work even when I take out the battery and insert it into the console. This one doesn’t.

kajterman -

I agree, it sounds like it’s not a battery issue. If the right one doesn’t work even when attached to the console there’s probably a shorted or broken connection in the power circuitry of the motherboard.

Andrew Ellis -

Caution: it appears the new joycon have a revised analog stick and the older replacement sticks will Not work. This is from an evening of research and taking apart 5 controllers. Nothing official.

New joycon have an analog stick with an “H" pattern pressed into the metal back of the stick. Older replacement sticks have an “X" imprinted and older joycon look like they have an “#".

It looks like the “#" and the “X" are interchangeable but the cable on the “H" are thinner. So the motherboard won't accept the older thicker style.

I've spent a few hours on this and have broken two replacement sticks finding this out. I haven't found anything official about Nintendo changing the sticks but I guess they eventually would to prevent the drift issue.

Scott Nieman - Yanıt

sorry, but this doesn’t seem to be the case in my experience. I have just removed a stick from a UK switch that I got on launch day, and this had the H shape on the back. I replaced it with a stick bought the other day off amazon that claims to be ‘new’ design and has a # shape on the back. This is my 1st time doing this but the connectors seem to fit and everything seems to be working. So I don’t know how you can conclusively say H is new and H and # don’t interchange, because in my case that’s not true.

N Carter -

just replaced original joy-cons marked H with replacement joysticks with # and working as they should.

Jacob Croxford -

Just chiming in with a differing experience. I have three left Joy Cons I bought at the end of 2017, one is the original from the Switch, two were bought separately. All three had the H stamped in the back, and all three were compatible with the #-stamped replacement parts I bought from the store here. I should have whipped out my calipers, but the ribbons didn’t feel any thicker.

I’m sure Scott is right: there are probably some early controllers that have a different style of connector, but I don’t believe the stamp shape is a reliable way to determine compatibility.

Scott: I hope you were able to repair your controllers!

Ben Etherington -

a good guide but instead of guiding you through the process of rescrewing and reconnecting everything you just say “yea follow the guide back”. I mean it worked for me but its still better to atleast give some tipps on how for example reconnect the battery, because i personally had the most trouble with it.

Daniel Aldushyn - Yanıt

Daniel, that is definitely one of the drawbacks of our guides! What specifically did you struggle with while reconnecting the battery? I can add a reminder bullet to that step to help people in the future.

Taylor Dixon -

I agree, pulling out the cables is a lot easier than trying to slide them back in.

N Carter -

Nicely done. Thank you for sharing.

kmcrawford111 - Yanıt

Fixed my joycon thanks iFixit!!!

Devan Miller - Yanıt

good guide overall, but I messed up the battery connector socket and now it appears it needs to be soldered back on the board. It would have been great to have a better close up of that since it was unclear to me. Any suggestions on this more in-depth repair?

Nathaniel Wilson - Yanıt

No problems completing this what so ever. I did opt to not disconnect the battery and antenna. Mostly because I was having issues getting the spudger near the battery connection. Thanks so much for the fantastic guide!

Cameron Sorbie - Yanıt

hi! i’ve replaced the analog stick on my right joy-con, however, now the stick wont recognize a “click”/R3 input. i don’t know if i screwed it up or how the click is registered electronically. now i cannot calibrate the new stick, or use any R3 function. any ideas? :/

Joseph Leib - Yanıt

just as a suggestion is there any corrosion where the ribbon cable goes into the board?

Coker Lisonbee -

Thanks for the guide! my only issue which doesn’t pertain to the guide itself but my new stick won’t fully center but I’m also not getting any drift either. Anyway thanks again for the guide, it was really straight forward and easy to understand. (edit: I did also calibrate the stick a few times to center but it still won’t.)

Coker Lisonbee - Yanıt

I’m glad everything went smoothly for you! If you bought the joystick from us you can contact our customer service team and they’ll send you a replacement.

Taylor Dixon -

Worked great! Had a joystick that was drifting and the new part and guide fixed it perfectly. The one extra note I would make is to watch out for the top spring-loaded button popping out. It came out at step 9 and I was lucky I was able to find the spring. Just something to look out for. Thanks so much for the guide!

Kyle Hatlestad - Yanıt

A good guide : changed the left and right joy-con with no problems. Just the left button’s spring that decided to pop out. But not a problem (I did not saw it at first).

Fabrice - Yanıt

Missing from the recommended tools list — jeweler’s glasses! These components are TINY and it was nearly impossible to see what I was poking and pulling at.

danbalzer - Yanıt

Think I messed the battery part up when reconnecting. Works when attached but shows battery indicator as red and doesn’t work detached ?

M J - Yanıt

Brilliant. This is literally the first thing I've repaired myself and it went really well. Thank you from a new right to repair fan.

Adsta Congrejo - Yanıt

Hallo ,

Ich hatte ein fixkit bestellt worin erst ein kaputtes Ersatzteil drinn war, habe aber direkt ein neues bekommen und konnte mein Nintendo jetzt erfolgreich reparieren

LG

Benny - Yanıt

Hallo Benny,

super, dass alles geklappt hat! Viel Spaß mit deiner Switch.

Viele Grüße!

Fabian Neidhardt -

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