You will need a PH00 screwdriver - one of the most commonly used screwdrivers on mobile phones. If you have ever even attempted anything with phones before you probably have dozens of them lying around.

A metal and plastic spudger are recommended but not required - if you lack these, strong fingernails are an adequate stand in.

  1. This is the first time I have seen this phone in my life.
    • This is the first time I have seen this phone in my life.

      • I received it from a friend who informed me I needed to replace the digitiser, and would be rewarded with $20 for doing so.

    • Cracked display, the reason for replacing the glass digitiser on the front.

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  2. Locate the small hole on the left side of the phone near the volume rocker, which you can slip your fingernail into to pull the battery casing off.
    • Locate the small hole on the left side of the phone near the volume rocker, which you can slip your fingernail into to pull the battery casing off.

    On the Ace 2e model, the small hole is on the top of the device.

    Jean Lemire - Yanıt

    Instructions were great - all seemed to go well, but the screen doesn't seem to respond correctly - can only type a couple of characters before it locks, swipe doesn't seem accurate - like it needs to be calibrated. Any ideas?

    Alfixesthings - Yanıt

    I'm not sure as I don't work with Samsung devices. Your replacement sounds like it is defective though. (Unless you mean the device is locking, which shouldn't be happening)

    Tom Lube -

    • Remove the battery by pulling up on the small dip at the bottom, and slide the SIM sideways out of its enclosure.

      • You can also tap the bottom of the phone with the display up against a surface to allow the battery to fall out.

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    • Remove the 8 screws highlighted.

    • With the screws removed, push a spudger no more than a centimetre into the device.

      • Gently pry all around the outside of the phone where the gray plastic meets the glass of the display.

    • The plastic backing will separate entirely from the device.

    • You might have to force it a little, but don't use too much or you risk damaging the plastic or the internal components.

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    • Behold, the motherboard of the phone.

    • Remove the one screw holding down the motherboard.

    • Do not try and remove the motherboard yet!

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    • Gently spudge the power button connector off of the side of the device. Starting from the bottom right corner of where it is in the first picture is the best way to go about this.

    • Gently disconnect the highlighted ribbon cable from the motherboard.


    • The last picture shows the ribbon cable connecting the speaker and headphone jack assembly. You do not need to disconnect this if you are only replacing the digitiser.

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    • Gently lift up the side without the white plastic on it to see the ribbon cable plugged into the bottom.

      • Pull this ribbon cable connector off with a plastic spudger and remove the motherboard from the display chassis.

    • If you need to replace the unit's main camera, it's right here for you to disconnect.

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    • Voila! You now have exposed the belly of the beast! Or at least, the Thin Film Transistor housing.

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    • Disconnect this ribbon cable by flipping the black tab at the very left (relative to this picture) upwards to the right, and gently pulling the ribbon cable out.

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    • Heat the entire front of the display up with a heat gun. A hair dryer will work as well.

    • Stick a finger nail in an area with a small seam - I found one around the top right - and pry it open just enough to fit a spudger.

      • Run it all the way along the edge of the display. There are no sensitive ribbon cables to break, but pay close attention to the silver speaker at the top, and the home button at the bottom.

    • You should also pull up on any surface of the digitiser which has separated from the metal TFT housing. This is to prevent it from re-sticking and introducing aggravation.

    • While using a spudger to remove the adhesive, be sure to always drag the spudger along the digitiser side (towards the glass) and not towards the metal body, or you will scratch the TFT.

    Is the touch-screen pasted at LCD?? If yes, how can i do for separate them?

    d3w201 - Yanıt

    • Carefully pull the ribbon cable connector through the slot here, ensuring it doesn't catch on any parts.

      • If you are replacing the digitiser, you do not have to be gentle to the ribbon cable but it is recommended anyway.

      • To reassemble, simply follow all these steps in reverse.

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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

26 başka kişi bu kılavuzu tamamladı.

Tom Lube

Üyelik tarihi: 17-05-2013

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Thank-you so much for helping me out and for answering my question. But as I said before, my phone is unresponsive to my touch. Do you think that problem will be fixed after replacing the screen as shown above?

Anon - Yanıt

Hey mate, unresponsive to touch is a sure sign that the digitiser is shot. Getting a new one will almost certainly resolve this issue.

Tom Lube -

my daughter smashed her screen and was ready to have us buy a new phone, I said lets order a screen and see if we can fix it. Well it took 2 weeks for the ebay screen to arrive, and then I had to putup or shutup. It did take about a 1/2 hour and then she put the sim chip in backwards which scared the crap out of me, but for $7.50 her phone is working. Oh I made a mistake and got a black faceplate but she says it looks better in black. So Thanks, and just mention that that screen gets hot with a blow dryer, but a thumb nail works id off just fine

w a powers - Yanıt

Hey mate! Glad to hear you had a success with the replacement :) Good for you all!

And yes, the screen is meant to get really hot (more hot than is comfortable to the touch) but don't worry if you did it another way :)

Tom Lube -

Well thanks again, two months after replacing the screen the kid broke the new one, so it took two weeks for the new one to show up and the cost went up by 5 cents. One thing in step 9 I had forgot (!@#$ I'm almost 70 I forget lots of stuff) that the lock flips up from the back to the front. And then getting the tab back into position was a real pain. I can only see out of 1 eye so I need to hold the magnifying glass, hold the lock up and fit the tab in. Easy for you young whipper snappers, but for geezers it's a handful

Thanks again great explainations and photos

w a powers - Yanıt

Hahahaha I'm really glad man! Thanks for the kind words :)

Tom Lube -

My screen cracked too and its also unresponsive to my touches too. Do I just have to replace the screen or is there something else I have to replace

Noah Hui - Yanıt

Hey mate!

Almost certainly you need a new digitiser.

Tom Lube -

My screen is fine but dust has crept inside under the glass. Is there a shortcut to get to the inside of the glass? Otherwise I just follow the steps provided. I'm guessing I'll have to follow most of then anyway to get the electronics away from the cover before I use the heat gun!

Jean Lemire, October 10

Jean Lemire - Yanıt

Hey mate!

Yes, you cannot skip these steps. Not because of the electronics, but rather the plastic!

Let me know if there are any other differences & I will update the guide as appropriate.

Tom Lube -

i just changed my phone's screen and digitizer but now the touch screen won't work. i see in some youtube videos and also read some comments to wipe the led with alcohol. i also read to brush the motherboard and contact points and again with alcohol. can i do that with samsung galaxy ace 2x too? what do you that? thanks.

Lerie - Yanıt

Sure, you could do this. Don't know if it will help any!

Tom Lube -

Hi, have one of these here. How do you tell if it is a bonded screen versus just contact? I don't want to take this apart and make it worse, on this one the OLED is OK (barely) but the glass is smashed beyond recovery so its going to be a tape job for sure.

Also I found that at least for the S4 mini it is actually feasible to use a hair drier and optical reader strip from a dead HP all-in-one printer as this seems to have the right tensile properties to separate the glass on some bonded screens without damaging or scratching the OLED glass. Sometimes if you did scratch it there is a chance of successfully repairing it by replacing the top UV and polarizer layer with some Xylene to break the glue, or simply hope that the LOCA re-bonds everything and fills in the scratches.

Incidentally I am in the market for a Neo mainboard if anyone has a spare, this one has broken power socket.

Andre - Yanıt

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